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The Best Of New York Fashion Week: Videos, Pics, Reviews

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Friday, February 1

YIGAL AZROUËL

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All images from Style.com

To the backdrop of underground subway scenes (shot courtesy of budding film director Chiara Clemente who sat front row with her chic sikh beau, Waris Ahluwalia), Yigal Azrouël showed a collection that confirmed his transition from jersey boy (as in the fabric) to city man. Asymmetrical dresses in a grungy plaid and oversized sweaters screamed L train, while the jersey chiffon goddess dresses were town-car only. But like a 6 train on a Friday afternoon, some looks--a double jersey "ondulé" skirt and silk habatai metamorphosis blouse (huh?)--were a bit too busy for our tastes. His year-old men's line was more coherent, focusing on layered weekend-worthy styles by pairing chic track pants or loose-skinny tuxedo trouser (yes it's possible) with exposed pocket sweaters and military-inspired outerwear. Top looks: For her, high-waisted skirts à la Alaïa, and a swingy but still shapely jacket...a masterpiece unto itself. For him, it was washed leather pants, with button-down shirt, navy ribbed collar coat, and Yigal for K SWISS retro classic sneaker.--Meredith L. Fisher

ERIN FETHERSTON

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Upon entering the promenade tent at Bryant Park this Friday evening the crowd, damp from the rain, was swathed by a cool blue light to welcome them to Erin Fetherston's fall 2008 show. Known for her pale, floaty baby-doll frocks, this woman is now attempting to grow up (though she still keeps her dollhouse in the attic). The show began dark and slim but veered back into the bouncy baby-doll look with the bulk of the collection. This was a bit of the fall version of her spring collection, this time in richer fabrics, prints, and darker hues. Top looks: A one-shouldered black satin mini-dress with cascading black roses, and black blazers with graphic-print chiffon dresses.--Christina Gregory

Fresh from her Paris move, newly transplanted designer Erin Fetherston invited us into her new NYC workshop where we got a first look at her latest Fashion Week creations as well as a front-row seat at her show casting.

WAYNE

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Photos by Olivia Jade Horner

If the Coen Brothers collaborated on a clothing line with Martin Margiela, you could imagine it might look something like Wayne's fall 2008 collection. And it wasn't just the Soggy Bottom Brother's long lost band mate--a Japanese, harmonica-playing, blues singer--that infused designer Wayne Lee's first presentation with that certain Je ne sais Coen, but rather the sepia-toned (splashed with a flash of cerulean) loose dresses, and androgynous coats, not to mention the men's oxford shoes. Wayne's actual inspiration was the horse-training, bush pilot Beryl Markham, who would definitely have felt comfortable in the khaki flying suit or parachute dress. But the British-born Kenyan was also known for her social affairs, which is where a nude, silk chiffon slip covered with a wool trench and gold sweater with navy ruched skirt came in. Everyone from Vogue's Meredith Melling Burke to Neiman Marcus' fashion director Ken Downing turned up to see what the recipient of the Ecco Domani Fashion Fund and one-time Barneys buyer would do. Top looks: A divine coated cotton military overcoat and ivory double collar asymmetric top with elastic waist pencil skirt.--Meredith L. Fisher

Barneys New York's Julie Gilhart on dressing Hillary Clinton:
"Oh ,we would have so much fun! I'd love to see her mix it up a bit, and not play it so safe--she doesn't need to wear one designer head-to-toe. I mean, this election is all about change and where better to start than with making changes in your wardrobe. I would love to dress her for a debate!"

Street Seens at WAYNE:

Sally Singer, Fashion News and Features Director, Vogue

What are you wearing?
A Rick Owens jacket, Calvin Klein skirt, and YSL shoes.

What shows are you looking forward to this week?
Definitely, the relaunch of Halston!

For more Friday reviews, videos, and pictures, please visit http://pipeline.refinery29.com.

Saturday, February 2

ALEXANDER WANG

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If anyone can bring back ripped stockings and cutoff jeans, it's wunderkind Alexander Wang, a designer who continues on his meteoric rise this season by winning the coveted Ecco Domani Fashion Fund award and launching a capsule collection of handbags. The 24-year-old designer still looks like a baby, but his fall 2008 collection was what after-school specials are made of--rebellious young teens. Heavy-metal zippers and biker chic boots marched down the dark and steamy catwalk (literally, there was smoke rising off the runway) paired with well-tailored baggy trousers, and (trend alert!) a wool flight suit. He brought back the '80s with nylon parachute pants and oversized blazers, but his talent lies in his ability to draw from the past and update it for the present. "These clothes are definitely made for cool girls," said Teen Vogue editor Amy Astley, a sentiment echoed by his entourage of risk-taking, front row fans--Arden Wohl, Genevieve Jones, and Fabiola Beracasa. Top looks: A lean black wool jumpsuit and a herringbone jacket with paired with a white tank and charcoal gray thermal leggings.--Meredith L. Fisher

Alexander Wang After-Party
It seems that all of New York's adopted Fashion Week children lined up to fight their way into Alexander Wang's after party at The Annex on Saturday night. While the lucky ones got in early to the Lower East Side club to dance underneath the strobe light to an array of '80s club hits with the barely legal designer and his posse of hipper-than-hip friends, the unassuming underage models--and masses of hopeful NYU students--were left in the cold to brave the mob scene out front (all in Wang's obligatory denim cut-off and oversized tees, no less!). Seeing the throngs, the more prim fashion set opted for a cab uptown upon arrival (such as Vogue's Meredith Melling Burke) or ducked out early (like Teen Vogue's Jane Keltner) to leave the young and reckless to party into the wee hours.--Naomi Nevitt

Overheard outside the Alex Wang party: A clearly pre-pubescent Euro model shouting to another leggy lass over the bouncers head "We're trying to find someone to give us I.D.s!"

PATRIK ERVELL

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It was fitting that Patrik Ervell's presentation took place in a photo studio in the Chelsea Piers, as his art world clientele, including artist Terrence Koh, Visionaire's Cecilia Dean and style blogger-cum-Sartorialist star Scott Schuman, didn't have to venture far to get a taste of the Swedish designer's latest offering of laid-back menswear. While Other Music's Scott Mau played prog rock records to the downtown crowd, the exceptionally boyish models sauntered in front huge windows overlooking the Hudson River in school-days inspired tapered trousers, varsity jackets, and metallic anoraks. Top looks: An oversized cocoon-like gray hooded rain slicker paired with acid washed skinny jeans and a gold track jacket juxtaposed with navy tailored trousers.--Naomi Nevitt

threeASFOUR

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After seven years as an avant-garde design collective, threeASFOUR still knows how to draw a crowd. And riding on their CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nomination, a high-fashion audience turned out in droves for the Chinatown collective, prompting sightings of Vogue's Anna Wintour, Sarah Lerfel from Colette and never-mistakable "A Shaded View of Fashion" blogger Diane Pernet in Chelsea's Altman Building. Striding to a mix of Mozart's "Eine Kleine Nachtmusik" and typical western movie soundtracks, the trio presented their signature tiered silk halter dresses, this season in a muted pallet of sea foam green, silver and black, as well as structural cut-out vests and high-collared bubble coats in shimmery, yet stiff, metallic wools. Top looks: A sparkly wool cross-over and cut out vest over a 3/4 length jersey top and oversized wool trousers all in monochromatic black, as well as a tulip-like silver lurex hooded coat.--Naomi Nevitt

For more Saturday reviews, videos, and pictures, please visit http://pipeline.refinery29.com.

For more Fashion Week coverage, please click here.

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