Fourth of July cookouts bring on barbecue fatigue--a condition marked by the desire to never see another charred beef puck or desiccated hot dog again. It's not the grill's fault that we use it, badly, for mediocre meats. Reinvigorate the open-flame experience now, at the midsummer point, with some of the city's finer proteins: black sea bass from Wild Edibles, Fairway's double-cut veal rib chops, and Brandt hanger steak from Market Table. All are incredibly easy to do right, and guarantee a chorus of praise.
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