Midriffs Make A Comeback At NY Fashion Week
NEW YORK — Ladies, start your crunches: Bare bellies are back at New York Fashion Week.
Abs were on full display on Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week's second day on Friday. There were bra tops at Charlotte Ronson and a cropped men's style shirt at Cynthia Steffe. There were sophisticated slashes of midriff at Yigal Azrouel and belly-flashing rock star style at Gwen Stefani's LAMB.
This might seem no small indignity for the average woman, who's suffered through an unflattering '80s renaissance of harem pants, shoulder pads and leggings in recent seasons. Also making a comeback for spring: acid-wash jeans, shown at Charlotte Ronson and LAMB.
Rest assured, there are plenty of belly-covering styles on the runways, too. But the best accessory for spring might be an ab roller.
NICOLE MILLER
Nicole Miller seemed to take inspiration from the ocean for her spring collection, but it wasn't about the tranquil side of the water. There were mashups and slashes – and some noteworthy asymmetrical dresses that had blocks of prints she called "riptide" and "ocean current" opposite chunks of black.
Body-conscious scuba-stretch styles included a bra-top dress and biker shorts. Miller offered several styles of shorts: The biker style with ruching down the sides were likely the most wearable, but pants with a one-sided drape, right at the hip, are unlikely to appeal to any woman who doesn't want to draw attention there.
The hips seem to be emerging as a point of interest at this round of fashion shows. Maybe they're the replacement for the strong shoulders so popular in fall collections?
JASON WU
What first lady Michelle Obama would wear was on the minds of the crowd, but Jason Wu seemed to have a different woman in mind: someone who could get away with feathers and very short skirts.
Not that there weren't outfits for Mrs. Obama, who famously wore Wu's designs to the inaugural ball and on several other occasions. There were tweed pants- and skirt-suits that were ladylike but not dated or stiff.
But the outfits that really caught the eye on the mirrored runway (which seemed to cause problems for models and photographers) were the bright red faille dress with sculpted fabric in flower shapes at the neckline, and modern tweed "staple-stitch" sheath dresses with flashes of yellow and hot pink.
The finale pieces where short, fitted dresses in blush and dove gray that were dotted with delicate, luxurious feathers. Since Mrs. Obama often embraces looks that are fashion-forward, it wouldn't be that surprising if she turned up in longer versions of those pieces.
CHARLOTTE RONSON
It looks like "stay tough" is Charlotte Ronson's motto for next season. Her spring collection maintained what is becoming her signature look of rock 'n' roll party girl.
With acid-wash skinny jeans and bra tops as the base, she built outfits with rolled-shoulder vests, burnout cardigans and boyfriend blazers.
Rolled shoulders – some on belly baring cropped tops – might be the next step for the strong shoulder that first emerged for fall. A lace-up boyfriend shirt with sequined shoulder pads, however, might get passed over by most shoppers.
But if the overcapacity crowd and the seating chaos at the show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week's Bryant Park tents are any indication, Ronson has plenty of her own fans. (Or do they come to see her sister Samantha in the DJ booth?)
RAG & BONE
Rag & Bone built their spring collection around structured jackets of nearly every stripe.
There were frock coats and tailcoats, field coats and brigadier blazers, "Hendrix jackets" and cravat coats – all elegantly tailored for men and women.
Designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville paired the jackets, whether formal or military-inspired, with laid back underpinnings including summer long johns and short shorts, skinny jeans and – in one case – no pants at all, just a shirtdress that was more shirt than dress, enough for a flash of the model's behind.
Standouts were a nude silk orley jumpsuit paired with a citrine tank and a beautifully detailed navy dress paired with a light blue field jacket. And, of course, the very wearable jackets: pick your style.
YIGAL AZROUEL
Yigal Azrouel certainly found the sexy in the slash. His spring women's collection was at its best when it flashed just a bit of skin in an unexpected place – or gave the illusion of doing so.
He described the slits in jersey dresses as carved "with scalpel precision," all part of his fascination this season with geometry. There was a similar effect when he layered bands of black or taupe voile over a nude-colored base.
Two so-simple gowns oozed youthful sophistication thanks to the flattering soft drape – and nothing else.
Beware, though, of more bare midriffs. They're OK in cutout maillots but you can't imagine a crop top under a gray jersey vest and linen wrapped shorts to be a go-to outfit for many women, not even Azrouel's hip-chick fans.
CYNTHIA STEFFE
Cynthia Steffe offered softened styles for a muse who has become smitten with her sweetheart.
Steffe's muse was last seen for fall in hard-edge rock 'n' roll style: leather and structured jackets. Next season, though, she favors muted floral prints, feminine tiers of ruffles and refined, sophisticated suede.
Still, she doesn't fully commit to a girlie look: She keeps her menswear shirting and a denim trench coat – a must-have item. "That blend of sweet and sexy, soft and hard, embodies my design philosophy for Cynthia Steffe," said designer Shaun Kearney.
Although it's still early in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, with shows running through next Thursday, the unconventional floral print seen here seems to be emerging as a trend, as do metallic fabrics that have a sheen but are not shiny, further evolving the popular tarnished look of the current season.
MONIQUE LHUILLIER
Fashion certainly can make for strange bedfellows, like Monique Lhuillier and the Masai warriors.
As she debuted her new spring styles on Thursday, the petite Los Angeles-based designer, who specializes in eveningwear and bridal, said she has long been drawn to the Kenyan fighters and their ornate costumes and masks. The inspiration led to a largely safari-themed collection in sunburned shades of yellow, rust and brown.
One of her favorite pieces is a black strapless A-line dress scattered with embellishment that looks like matchsticks.
Long, heavy strands of silk jersey fringe created an aura of seduction, especially on a black one-shoulder gown with a peekaboo sleeve and corded-tie waist. Another sexy dress was a black fringe cocktail dress, topped by a burnished gold embroidered bolero that showed little skin – but the sheerness of the fabric made you feel like you did.
TAHARI
Tahari is thinking beyond the staycation for next year, previewing a spring collection heavy on white, linen and eyelet – not exactly ideal for lounging or doing chores at home.
These were outfits for a busy woman who goes to work wearing a trench dress, a weekend getaway in Bermuda shorts and runs errands in light-wash denim jeans with gold studs on the pockets.
Yes, gold studs on the pockets.
Gold was a mini-trend on this runway. There was a gold-thread cardigan, a gold, linen belted top and a white bustier with gold embellishment among key pieces.
Many of the bottoms featured paper-bag waists. Slouchy tan pants, paired with a white boyfriend blazer, had potential to be a go-to piece. There also were some inventive versions of the flattering wrap silhouette, including a pair of orange harem pants and a linen jumpsuit.
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Associated Press Writer Lisa Tolin contributed to this report.
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SAMANTHA CRITCHELL | 09/11/09 09:10 PM |