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Jonathan Gold Tests The Test Kitchen

10/26/2010 05:12 am ET | Updated May 25, 2011

So, in a way, the most interesting opening of the season may be neither WP24 nor the heavily promoted Red O but the new Test Kitchen, which is less a restaurant than it is a club that happens to feature food instead of music; a venue where every night is opening night, the name chef is always behind the range, adrenaline is the drug of choice and cooking is performance art. It may be an exaggeration, but not much of one, to say that between the bloggers, cocktail guys and food fetishists, a devoted restaurant follower might have recognized everybody in the dining room in its first days.

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