Can it already be five years since Michael Cimarusti left downtown seafood palace Water Grill to open his own place? He bet on Patina's old digs on a gritty section of Melrose Avenue just west of Cahuenga -- not the best of locations. But the restaurant space came with the state-of-the-art kitchen that Joachim Splichal had installed before Patina moved to Walt Disney Concert Hall, big enough to comfortably hold 20 or so cooks and interns. That's what's needed to pull off the kind of intricately orchestrated tasting menu Cimarusti presents at Providence. And like Patina, Providence is one of the last bastions of fine dining left in a restaurant scene obsessed with bistros, trattorias, food trucks and pop-up restaurants.
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