Jonathan Gold Reviews Wolfgang Puck's WP24

01/18/2011 05:12 am ET | Updated May 25, 2011
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Wolfgang Puck, although he is still probably best known for Spago, has been in the Chinese food game for a long time, first at Chinois, where it could be argued fusion cooking was born, then at places like Obachine and Dallas' Five-Sixty. For at least a couple of decades, a casual look at a Spago menu makes that restaurant seem almost Chinese too. So it makes a certain kind of sense that he would open a place like WP24, a Chinese restaurant unabashedly retailing luxury; a place with solicitous service, superprofessional cooking and a wine list heavy on Bordeaux; a place that no visiting Chinese could afford to miss.

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