Amy Westcott, 'Black Swan' Costume Designer, Speaks Out About Rodarte Controversy

Clothes on Film caught up with "Black Swan" costume designer Amy Westcott and among the topics discussed was the sort of controversy about Rodarte not being listed as the film's costume designers (and thus not being eligible for an Oscar nomination, which the movie didn't get anyway). THR previously reported:

A source tells us the Mulleavy sisters were "naive about movies" and didn't negotiate credits in their initial deal. They also weren't members of the Costume Designers Guild (they are now). We hear Fox Searchlight wanted to submit both parties for Oscar consideration, but guild rules say only the official designer is eligible for a nom.

Although Rodarte's Laura and Kate Mulleavy have been vocal about the pieces they created for the film, Westcott pointed out to Clothes on Film, "In all, there were 7 costumes in the collaboration with Rodarte, not the '40' that keeps coming up in the press."

Here are some excerpts from the Clothes on Film interview:

Clothes on Film, Chris: Are you aware of the controversy surrounding yourself and fashion house Rodarte (the Mulleavy sisters) in the press; that they should be credited alongside you as costume designers?

Amy Westcott: Controversy is too complimentary a word for two people using their considerable self-publicising resources to loudly complain about their credit once they realised how good the film is.

CoF: Do you feel as though you are being vilified for something out of your hands?

AW: I was happy for Rodarte's persistent publicity efforts at first; I'm so proud of the film and anything that brings it to an even wider audience is genuinely welcome. I tried to put aside my ego while being airbrushed from history in all of their interviews, as I'm just not that kind of person anyway. But when articles were planted that attacked me personally as if I had conspired against them I felt nothing but despair and betrayal. I don't have a publicist working for me, needless to say, and I was asked to stay quiet -"not to engage", to avoid any bad press towards the film. Unfortunately this seems to have proven detrimental to the perception of my work on Black Swan. I didn't make the rules that the Guild and the Academy set and I am proud of my professionalism and commitment to my work, so to have my name dragged into such ill-informed gossip is galling and hurtful to say the least.

Westcott added, "I was too trusting, and never saw this 'controversy' coming. Suffice to say that I will never be put in this position again." To read the rest of the fascinating interview, head over to Clothes on Film.

(Via The Cut)

Comments

[bz10102]

04:41 PM on 02/08/2011

Wescott and the Mulleavy sisters both deserve credit for their part of the visual spectacle that Black Swan provided for its audience. Yes, perhaps the Mulleavys have received more recognitio­n than they deserved for the film’s overall costume design. However, they played a large role in the creation of the film’s most spectacula­r costumes (who didn’t gasp at Portman’s white and black swan ensembles at the end of the film?) and thus, this recognitio­n is not entirely undeserved­. In addition, the aforementi­oned ensembles are so evocative of previous Rodarte collection­s- particular­ly the renowned “Apocalyps­e Now” Spring 2010 show- that the fashion media was practicall­y drooling. Although the Rodarte PR machine certainly overhyped the designers’ role in creating Portman’s looks, they cannot be blamed for the media’s eagerness to accept and emphasize this associatio­n.

[qaan]

08:56 AM on 02/03/2011

Anyone with a business should have an attorney to look over any contract, and an accountant to keep the books straight. That being said, I think the Mulleavy sisters should have enough experience in the business to be able to ask friends and colleagues about this kind of thing. Wescott got her name on the credits and is still whining about despair and betrayal? And she says that she was too trusting? Spare us the crocodile tears.

[Palito]

12:29 PM on 02/01/2011

There's nothing new, groundbreaking or requiring an amazingly unique talent and vision about swan lake costumes anymore. This is an ancient ballet, done to death. You can find very elaborate swan outfits in the most expensive and lavish ballet productions of Lake Swan in the Paris Opera Ballet, Bolshoi or Kirov.

I dont see why these sister designers deserve any nomination or credit for that. The films credit is for whoever thought of the wardrobe that would fulfill the director's vision for the film, not for the individuals who created individual pieces of the wardrobe.

[BlueZoo]

12:07 PM on 02/01/2011

Naivete can be very costly! Remember that if you ever have a contract to sign and that includes mortgages, banking, insurance, etc! Always ask for contracts before the date you are expected to sign them. At house closings, they present you with literally reams of contracts. Ask for all of these beforehand! Ditto insurance - auto, home & life! Ditto again for opening checking, savings and brokerage accounts! Read the fine print, re-read it and then have someone smarter than you are read it! The Courts do not accept naivete as a defense if you get screwed and want to sue! These gals didn't protect themselves!

[babybecks]

11:02 AM on 02/01/2011

It would seem like if you were making a film this big, why wouldn't these girls take their contract to a lawyer familiar with the ins and out of these type of film contracts? There must be tons of them in the industry. And if they did, then they need to take up their beef with the attorney who didn't secure all the normal details.

Working on a movie like Black Swan I would think would be the height of many people's careers. Wouldn't you just want to make sure all of the legal things are straight?

[PM Gaffney]

07:42 AM on 02/01/2011

The film industry is the only one where every employee thinks they deserve credit. I would like to see an art piece that has the name of every person responsible for a car's production etched on it.

[Kali03]

06:23 AM on 02/01/2011

The Rodarte girls are hardly the sharpest tools in the shed.

So they got bad advice and didn't negotiate their contract to their own benefit?

Well, does anyone remember the tone-deaf decision to name a nail polish after Ciudad Juárez? Because they felt that there was something dreamy and romantic about the border town? (Note to those who may not know--this is a Mexican border town that has been described as a "playground for serial killers" and the rape, disappearance, and murder rate is scandalous. But little is done, for the victims are maquiladora workers, disposable I guess, as long as someone shows up to work and there's more where they come from...). My understanding of that fiasco was that the girls had to pull that product. Poor girls--nobody to advise them properly and they got burned by their own clueless myopia, I guess.

They aren't that bright, are they?

Kali

[nik101]

11:55 PM on 01/31/2011

Give accurate credit no matter what. Even if it's not in a contract. The guy who delivers the m&ms in the afternoon gets credit, so should Rodarte.

[pydbl]

09:37 AM on 02/01/2011

well, then Rodarte should be *accurate* about what's going on, instead of saying hurtful things about others. After all, as AW said, those rules, though unjust, were not set by her. Blaming her for their not getting credit for their work is not the nicest thing to do.

[ElectroJones]

10:29 PM on 01/31/2011

It seems to me that these folks got screwed out of a credit, and possible awards consideration, and Wescott is crying like they owe her something.

[pydbl]

09:38 AM on 02/01/2011

Yeah, let's see if you would cry, if people kept saying ill-informed stuff about you.

[vegetablelollipop]

07:45 PM on 01/31/2011

Wow.
Fashion = politics.
Go figure.

[MiBFTo]

05:36 PM on 01/31/2011

I"m a little confused. Seems to me Amy Westcott negotiated a contract to create costumes for the film that included, specifically, her name in the credits. These other people, or the company, Rodarte, also negotiated a contract to create costumes for the film, which did not specifically include their name in the credits. As such, the credits read, "Costumes, Amy Westcott". And Ms. Westcott is getting blamed by these Rodarte people for *taking* credit for all the costumes?

Is that right? Because if it is, that's just silly.

[daxanh]

06:34 PM on 01/31/2011

Seems someone was taken advantage of when the "contracts" were drawn up...

Oh, well.... Live and learn...

[MiBFTo]

10:16 PM on 01/31/2011

Is that really so, though? I mean, if it's not automatically part of the contract, then maybe not. Perhaps that's always something that needs to be added to the standard boilerplate and is never included unless it's specifically negotiated. I don't know how movie contracts work, but perhaps one could accept higher pay in lieu of credit, or something.

Regardless of the contract issue, it's seriously uncool for these Rodarte folks to be dragging the name of a fellow designer into their fight with the studio. It doesn't sound to me like Westcott is *taking* credit for their work, so much as their work being attributed to her by default. Sure, it sucks, but it comes down to the contract they signed.

But, I agree. Live and learn. Next time they'll have someone with experience review their contract before they sign.

[caune]

08:39 AM on 02/01/2011

I believe if you are a member of the Costume Guild (ie Union) you have a standard contract that would include credits...but Rodarte was not a guild member and so they didn't use a standard contract and frankly didn't know enough to request credit.
Live and learn

[shuffleoff]

05:13 PM on 01/31/2011

Ah, bla, bla, bla...why must there always be drama?

[daxanh]

06:33 PM on 01/31/2011

There is always drama in "fashion," have you never heard of Karl Lagerfeld!

LOL

[shuffleoff]

07:40 PM on 01/31/2011

You bet daxanh...Karl Lagerfeld and John Galliano...and the late Yves St. Laurent as well...but they are brilliant, yes?! :)

[tuliehowller]

08:12 PM on 01/31/2011

....anything to promote the movie.

[Kendall Hawley]

02:42 PM on 01/31/2011

Rodarte did beautiful work, but costume design is more than just the flashiest things the dancers on the stage are wearing. Everything you see on the characters on the screen has been carefully selected to reinforce the characters created by the script and director. If a costume designer has done their job correctly the audience does not even notice it, but the wardrobe has played an important role in the richness of the experience.

Credit negotiations can be tricky, but if there is anyone not being recognized for the work they did, it's Amy Westcott.

[daxanh]

06:34 PM on 01/31/2011

Agree!

[Dominick William Rolle]

02:41 PM on 01/31/2011

I don't understand the "it's a shame they're not getting credit" and "why is she being credited for their work??" I've never heard this woman's name until just now, I've been saying how amazing Rodarte is for the costume designs. No one has said "Amy Westcott and those 7 costumes by Rodarte" people have been giving them ALL the credit. And the film is not even up for costume design awards so what are the missing out on? Whatever it is it's THEIR fault (or their lawyer's). It is not the fault Amy Westcott that the Mulleavy sisters didn't hire a competent lawyer. In a cut throat business who would say "You know, even though I've done the bulk of the work and you'll be credited by the press and public for being the costume designers even though you only designed 7 pieces (out of HUNDREDS), by all means, please share the possibility of an Oscar with me!" Of course she knew she would be the only one listed as the costume designer: SO WHAT!?? I don't know what world you lot live in where you make a mistake and get mad because someone who has no obligation to fix it knew what was going on. GROW UP!!!

[Kendall Hawley]

02:50 PM on 01/31/2011

Thank you! There are so many people behind the scenes of every movie that never get any credit or notice in the general public for the work they are doing. That's just fine with most of them, but when they get dragged into these silly little disputes, they have every right to speak out and set the record straight. People who are against Amy Westcott have no idea what costume design for film entails, or how the business works.

[chiodo08]

03:32 PM on 01/31/2011

forgive me for being naive and probably clueless...but who designed the work?...if so why would they be left out of the credits...you have to "negotiate" your inclusion on something you created?...really?..it all seems very high school errr junior high to me...

[sgoodman]

06:45 PM on 01/31/2011

A costume designer on a movie or TV doesn't always have to design the actual costumes. They are the head of the costume department. Sometimes they do all the design work themselves if they are working on a period or fantasy movie like Lord of the Rings or Elizabeth. But a lot of the time they buy and alter the clothes and their job is to make it all work in the movie. So in this case even with good lawyers Rodarte was not going to get a costume designer credit nor should they have. They could have negotiated consultant credits or a special thanks or something to that effect. And it's totally disingenuous for them to act as if they were the costume designer unless they want to take credit for what each and every character (including extras) wore in the entire movie. They contributed and that's it. You should note that shows and movies like Sex and the City, Gossip Girl, the Devil Wears Prada and Mad Men don't credit every single designer that's used as the costume designer.

[TurnToTheLeft]

01:40 PM on 01/31/2011

"the Mulleavy sisters were naive about movies" Wescott is not. Why is she playing victim? HA! She knows the rules of the road. The guild details should have been dealt with before the film was released. The 7 Rodarte costumes are beautiful and will have an influence on fashion. Credit is due. The movie would not have been a stunning without the dramatic costumes which mesh with the superb acting.

[Kendall Hawley]

02:45 PM on 01/31/2011

Yes she does know the rules of the road, hence her credit. But why should her name be dragged through the mud? She did plenty of work on this film and she's not a producer.

[alsm9]

03:34 PM on 01/31/2011

"The guild details should have been dealt with before the film was released."

That's the Mulleavy sisters fault, not Wescott's. Amy Westcott is the film's costume designer, not a contract negotiator.