02/08/2011 05:54 pm ET Updated May 25, 2011

Restaurant Review: Hunan Kitchen of Grand Sichuan

JERRY TANG, a son of the late Chinese chef Shorty Tang, was talking about the business of running Chinese restaurants in New York. This was last week, during Chinese New Year, over coffee in Brooklyn.

Mr. Tang, 55, has had a long career in the city's Chinese restaurants. His father worked with the great restaurateur David Keh, who had Auntie Yuan, a Hunan restaurant on First Avenue on the Upper East Side. In the 1970s, the family owned Hwa Yuan on East Broadway in Manhattan's Chinatown.

"I would never open a Chinese restaurant in Manhattan now," Mr. Tang said. "My father would never open in Manhattan now. No way. Cooking is an art, it is balance. It is not fighting the city because you're in Manhattan, and paying those rents. You want good Chinese food, food like we had before, you have to go to Queens."