There are few places on the planet as remote as the Maldives. Landfall is a thousand miles away from much of the long string of 1,200 islands, most of which are little more than thin, uninhabited atolls. Diving into the heart of a Maldivian lagoon it is easy to imagine you are alone in one of Planet Ocean's most distant paradises.
Yet when I did just that a few days ago, in the heart of the Baa Atoll -- 400 square miles of aquamarine Indian Ocean recently named a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve -- something didn't feel, or look, quite like paradise.
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