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Western-Asian Flavor Differences Revealed By New Study

The Huffington Post    
First Posted: 12/15/2011 4:58 pm Updated: 12/16/2011 3:24 pm

Many differences divide traditional North American and Asian food cultures -- cooking methods, dining habits, famous recipes. They each have signature ingredients -- think of soy sauce, ginger and sriracha in Southeast Asian food or butter and molasses in Southern food. But a new study from an international team led by Yong-Yeol Ahn and Sebastian Ahnert, published in Scientific Reports, shows that there are actually deeper patterns at play.

It turns out North American and Western European cuisines tend to include ingredients with similar flavor molecules together in one recipe, while East Asian and Southern European cuisines tend not to. That means that the ingredients in most recipes traditionally associated with Western cuisine overlap and deepen each others' constituent flavors, while those in Asian recipes tend to bristle against one another with distinctive flavors.

The researchers discovered this trend by analyzing recipes they found online at AllRecipes and Epicurious. They downloaded the tens of thousands of recipes available on each of those databases, then added added data on the underlying flavor molecules that make each ingredient taste the way it does.

The process of appending flavor molecule information to ingredients allowed them to find the degree of taste-similarity of any given pair of ingredients. This in itself led to some interesting findings -- including the "flavor network" visualized above, which divides the world of ingredients into different zones of similar flavor groups. That allowed the researchers to empirically demonstrate the overlap in flavors between alcohols and fruits, between vegetables and herbs and between meats and beans.

But the real interest of the study comes through its application of this raw data to differences in cultures' cuisines. After a lot of dense statistical analysis, the researchers found that much of the divide between the flavor-coordination tendencies of each cuisine can be ascribed to the prevalence of just a few ingredients.

The harmoniousness of North American cuisine's flavors really stems from its reliance on a few heavy-tasting products commonly associated with baked goods, especially milk, butter, cocoa, vanilla, cream, cream cheese, egg, peanut butter and strawberries. And the study chalked the dissonance of East Asian cuisine up to its use of beef, ginger, pork, cayenne, chicken and onion. These ingredients are characteristic of each cultures' recipes -- and share relatively many flavor molecules, and relatively few flavor molecules, respectively, with the ingredients they're often paired with.

One intriguing nugget from the study, though, bodes well for the future careers of the world's ambitious chefs. In the introduction to the piece, the researchers note that the ingredients they found in their two recipe databases could theoretically be combined into 10 quadrillion recipes -- of which only one million, just .0000001%, have already been recorded.

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Many differences divide traditional North American and Asian food cultures -- cooking methods, dining habits, famous recipes. They each have signature ingredients -- think of soy sauce, ginger and sri...
Many differences divide traditional North American and Asian food cultures -- cooking methods, dining habits, famous recipes. They each have signature ingredients -- think of soy sauce, ginger and sri...
Many differences divide traditional North American and Asian food cultures -- cooking methods, dining habits, famous recipes. They each have signature ingredients -- think of soy sauce, ginger and sri...
Many differences divide traditional North American and Asian food cultures -- cooking methods, dining habits, famous recipes. They each have signature ingredients -- think of soy sauce, ginger and sri...
 
 
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southingtonian
"I'm a Capricorn and you can't make me do sh*t.."
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gypsysailor
Things that might have been never were.
02:35 AM on 12/18/2011
As a chef who has traveled around the world 18 times I can tell you that there is a lot of good food out there and good receipes. But for some reason the U.S. being the melting pot of the world just does not seem to get the best ingredients. Everything in our country from apples to oranges and other citrus to tomatoes and beef, pork, lamb and goat when you can find it, to cheese does not seem to have any regional character at all. It's like our food industry has become one giant McDonalds, no matter where you go in our country it almost all tastes the same.
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tsudopnem
I'm just this gal, y'know?
03:37 AM on 12/18/2011
Have you not been to farmers' markets? The on at Union Square in Manhattan has some amazing cheese, as well as duck, goat, pheasant, and a plethora of amazing apples.
03:49 AM on 12/18/2011
Perceptive and accurate. There are two main reasons for this. One is the numbing of the palate, described by Orwell in 1937. ("We may find that the tin can is deadlier than the machine gun"), and further analyzed in the brilliant, but obscure, "The Taste Of America" by John and Karen Hess. There is a tendency to cheer on any product, like many of our Goat Cheeses, which might sell for $50./ and be declared 'awesome' by it's fans, though it lacks any discernible flavor. Most people simply can't taste the difference, but are happy to pay for the illusion.

The second is the terrible habit of complicating everything to the point that individual ingredients have no voice, and are simply not required to be excellent. I once witnessed a lengthy discussion at a deli counter about which cheese might 'pair' best with which bread. Finally the deli guy asked what to put with the cheese. Ready? Mustard, mayo, lettuce, tomato, olive oil, salt, and pepper. I wonder how a true cheese maker stays sane when people eat cheese with mayonnaise. But instead of staying quiet and learning something, people say, "I like it. I have the right to eat what I want" But liking and understanding are not the same thing. We must lose our defensiveness and simply try to understand other cultures. They've been doing this a lot longer than we have and with far fewer handicaps, (especially ones with red wigs and yellow jumpsuits).

Simplovore.com
01:02 PM on 12/24/2011
I agree with Gypsysailor. What passes for food in this country is deplorable­. But we've done it to ourselves -- the average American consumer is driven solely by LOW COST. Our food production industry has given us exactly that, but has exacted a terrible price in the health of our bodies and of our planet. Shame on us.

However, tsudopnem made a good comment about farmer's markets. They are a ray of hope, as are the other emerging models of alternate food (Community Supported Agriculture, co-ops, etc). Unfortunately, farmer's markets still aren't quite mainstream yet, and one must really make an effort to go on to the market during those certain hours on those certain days when the market is open. I look forward to the day when buying good food is easy. I think the easier it gets, the more people will do it.
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uniqumm
Hot Snark served with relish
12:16 AM on 04/16/2012
What..... you don't put ketchup on everything???.
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Just kidding!
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stjoshy
"C is for COOKIEEEEE. thats good enough for me"
12:46 AM on 12/17/2011
we invented chocolate chip cookies. nuff said. ..OMNOMNOMNOMNOMNOMNOMNOM!!!!!
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gypsysailor
Things that might have been never were.
02:35 AM on 12/18/2011
But the chocolate chip cookies really are the best in the world.
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Artos
Down with Tyrants
06:12 PM on 12/16/2011
I love Chinese food and Thai food. Indian and Vietnamese not so much. Japanese food is good but you get these itty bitty portions that just don't fill you up. Great though if you want to diet. My favorite food of all is Pizza.
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uniqumm
Hot Snark served with relish
12:18 AM on 04/16/2012
Ever eat Ethiopian?

I remember many years ago going to an Ethiopian restaurant that had just opened.

I walked out hungry, and that was after I persuaded them to INCREASE the portions!
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
wingin it
Got all life to live, got all love to give
02:56 PM on 12/16/2011
That graphic is incredible, surely Edward Tufte would be proud.
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elcerritan
My bio is not micro
10:12 PM on 12/18/2011
Could you enlarge it? I couldn't. I'm dying to see a bigger version of it.
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elcerritan
My bio is not micro
10:14 PM on 12/18/2011
Ah, I found a bigger version by following one of the links.
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wingin it
Got all life to live, got all love to give
12:21 PM on 12/19/2011
Totally!
02:50 PM on 12/16/2011
Asian diets are based on rice. Western diets are based on wheat.
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Viable Way
Common sense is so unusual.
03:41 PM on 12/16/2011
Wheat, or CORN?
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Artos
Down with Tyrants
06:13 PM on 12/16/2011
What are Middle Eastern diets based on?
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gypsysailor
Things that might have been never were.
02:36 AM on 12/18/2011
Sand.
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Monicalups
03:51 AM on 12/19/2011
wheat
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Annespeaks
02:15 PM on 12/16/2011
interesting.....
01:59 PM on 12/16/2011
I know you were saying this lightly, but in fact this is so common that I thought I'd comment. The Latin "De gustibus non disputandum est" translates to "tastes are not disputable".

The modern, snarkier version, no “accounting” for tastes, is a misreading of that. I've always maintained that there is very definitely accounting for tastes. People like what they do for a variety of reasons (biological, social, and commercial), though the influences are obviously too complicated to parse.

Arguing over these tastes is what the Latins proscribed, for its futility. It’s an interesting distinction.

More at: www.simplovore.com
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maveet
AussieByChoice
02:18 PM on 12/16/2011
Thanks for this erudite post. Your site is wonderful. F&F
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elcerritan
My bio is not micro
12:38 AM on 12/19/2011
Checked out your blog, which I'll now be following. Thank you for taking on that simpleton, Malcolm Gladwell. He writes and "thinks" like an undergraduate who isn't nearly as clever as he thinks he is. It astounds me that he ever got as much "traction" as he did. ... On second thought, it doesn't astound me at all. :(
01:48 PM on 12/16/2011
Asian food FTW
01:47 PM on 12/16/2011
Link to a readable version of the image:

http://www.nature.com/srep/2011/111215/srep00196/images/srep00196-f2.jpg
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bkump
compassion is the toughest thing of all
02:57 PM on 12/16/2011
Thank youuuu!!! It is so frustrating when huffpo does that!
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Joe Satran
04:23 PM on 12/16/2011
Thanks for that! I should have linked in the body of the text, but you're right to call me out on that. I've updated the post. Cheers, Joe
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01:00 PM on 12/16/2011
The author's language is incredibly biased. When describing the North American food, it's "harmonious, and deepening each others' flavors." As for the East Asian food, it's "bristling and dissonant."
01:29 PM on 12/16/2011
I disagree. Using some sort of metaphor seems called for, and the musical one isn't bad.
There's nothing wrong with musical dissonance, or right with harmony, after all, is there? (If there is, 20th century music didn't get the message!)
02:00 PM on 12/16/2011
Let go of your PC-ness
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bkump
compassion is the toughest thing of all
02:59 PM on 12/16/2011
I agree. Sometimes they talk about wines having a sent of cat urine, and it isn't meant to be rude or anything, it is just a way for us to link a thought with a description so to share that thought and convey that message
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bkump
compassion is the toughest thing of all
03:00 PM on 12/16/2011
sry *scent. lol.... not sent....
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ThEbor
Be an opener of doors for such as come after thee.
12:51 PM on 12/16/2011
Absolutely fascinating. It explains why people find English food bland, for example. And, in some ways, it might account for the satisfaction so many people have with French food, since it straddles the north/south divide. Other border cultures like, say the Hungarians, who mix Magyar, German, and Ottoman-influenced Balkan influences, are also known for their culinary appeal.

Now, if we understood the genetics of tastebuds better, we'd probably see why some people respond to 'same' food and others to 'contrast' food. In the modern world, many can choose from the diversity of cuisines, and 'naturally' gravitate to say Thai or Ethiopian or bread/cake. It makes you think about all the people who couldn't/can't when choices aren't available and how fundamentally dissatisfied they are with their food. Food poverty to a whole different level. Wow.
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ThEbor
Be an opener of doors for such as come after thee.
04:06 PM on 12/16/2011
Thanks. Very interesting. All true, but it doesn't explain how the national dish is now curry and chips (joke).
04:20 PM on 12/16/2011
In the minds of many, German food (is it Western? Western European?) is characterized by contrastic sweet with sour--mixing vinegary with fruity with meat. Is that so strictly harmonious?
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Channa
Everyone is entitled to my opinion.
12:16 PM on 12/16/2011
I used to say, "There is no accounting for taste." Another proverb bites the dust.
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TheEmptyMonty
President of Antarctica
12:09 PM on 12/16/2011
Delicious :)
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12:02 PM on 12/16/2011
That is interesting as hell.