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Is Vogue Italia's 'Haute Mess' Fashion Feature Racist? (UPDATE)

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First Posted: 03/ 8/2012 1:48 pm Updated: 03/19/2012 3:34 pm

"Haute Mess" is definitely one way to describe Vogue Italia's March fashion editorial. We'd liken it to "Hood Couture" or totally-tacky-attire. But some are questioning if the over-the-top feature is racist.

The story, shot by Steven Meisel, is definitely eye-catching with a team of top models (including March's cover girl Joan Smalls) decked out in over-the-top ensembles, crazy weaves, extra long fingernails (and toenails), and other "ghetto fabulous" additions.

With that said, the images are clearly projecting some, er, touchy racial stereotypes.

This is what Vibe had to say about the matter:

"I will give Vogue Italia the benefit of the doubt that it was not their intention to be racist or offend anyone, but let’s keep it real for a minute: How many white girls [or any other ethnic backgrounds for that matter] do you know that dress or look like this? Exactly. Racist may be a little harsh of a word to describe this editorial , but it was definitely done in poor taste and judgement. Fashion is about being creative, pushing boundaries, and being expressive. Steven Meisel and Vogue Italia failed miserably at achieving these goals."

We know and love Franca Sozzani, Vogue Italia's editor-in-chief, for supporting diversity within the fashion industry-- so it's hard to believe that there was any ill intent when producing the story.

Sozzani counts the "Black Issue" as her proudest career accomplishment, launched the website Vogue Black and has spent time in Africa mentoring aspiring fashion designers. We haven't forgotten the "slave earrings" incident, but she promptly apologized and amended the gaff.

Take a look at a few shots from the March cover story in the slideshow below and check out the full feature over at Vogue.it. What you think--haute mess or hot mess?

UPDATE: Vogue Italia editor in chief Franca Sozzani defended the spread to the Cut, saying: "We have had very controversial issues, and this is not a controversial issue at all. Honestly, you have no idea what it means to have a controversial one. Controversial was the one we did in 2010 with Kristen McMenamy like a bird on the beach — that was very controversial. It was made to talk about nature and how it could suffer from what men do. We made it in a very ecological way, but they took it, like, why did you do something against BP? … It's not that I want it to be controversial all the time, it’s happened. … You can just take pictures like in a catalog so you will never be controversial, but that’s not my choice of life."

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"Haute Mess" is definitely one way to describe Vogue Italia's March fashion editorial. We'd liken it to "Hood Couture" or totally-tacky-attire. But some are questioning if the over-the-top feature is...
"Haute Mess" is definitely one way to describe Vogue Italia's March fashion editorial. We'd liken it to "Hood Couture" or totally-tacky-attire. But some are questioning if the over-the-top feature is...
"Haute Mess" is definitely one way to describe Vogue Italia's March fashion editorial. We'd liken it to "Hood Couture" or totally-tacky-attire. But some are questioning if the over-the-top feature is...
"Haute Mess" is definitely one way to describe Vogue Italia's March fashion editorial. We'd liken it to "Hood Couture" or totally-tacky-attire. But some are questioning if the over-the-top feature is...
 
 
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12:29 AM on 01/24/2013
If black women who run around looking like rainbow trash don't like to be mocked, then stop running around looking like that. As a black woman, I find that mess irritating, tacky, degrading, and not to mention it sets us back and sends the wrong message. The coonery has got to stop, seriously.
04:14 PM on 05/25/2012
In a sick way, I actually like it!
07:27 PM on 03/26/2012
As a black women, I must admit this is how some women choose to dress and wear their hair. The candy rappers, the nails...its really all true. We can't get angry if a magazine chooses to glamourze our tackiness...because thats what it is.
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imanormalalien
and yes, it's a MGMT reference
06:55 PM on 05/09/2012
Don't throw all black girls under the bus for some people's mistakes
01:39 PM on 01/09/2013
Thats what I said....SOME!
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Lisa1129
Find and fulfill your destiny
03:42 PM on 03/21/2012
Just in time for trick or treat.
07:16 AM on 03/21/2012
Offensive to who? Jessie J? Nikkia Minaj? Please!
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Dionita
Love is the new black.
01:32 PM on 03/21/2012
I was going to say that.
orthobobsuruncle
Insurance is not the same as welfare
03:37 AM on 03/21/2012
"but let’s keep it real for a minute: How many white girls [or any other ethnic backgrounds for that matter] do you know that dress or look like this?"

Hold on a minute. How many women dress like anything ever seen in any Vogue? I would never have thought racism on this one, and I suspect that seeing racism in this says something about the stereotypes in your own head.
11:11 PM on 03/20/2012
I'm black and female and see no racism in these photos. If anything, it looks like a really really bad acid trip while looking at the Kardashians. (No offense Kardashians). But if the Vogue editors are "guilty" of anything, it's classism. The long fingernails, lacquered weaves, gaudy clothing at typically found among those who can't afford the good stuff. And the pictorial comes across as Mean-Girls of the Upper Class School using their influence to mock those who, while don't have the same finesse, are trying to feel, look and be sexy, beautiful and fashionable with the funds they have.
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11:21 AM on 03/20/2012
The most annoying thing is the constant mispronunciation of the French word "haute". It is pronounced like the English word "oat", not "hot". It drives me crazy.
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RobertHenryEller
a micro-bio hp can handle
02:58 AM on 03/20/2012
Please, this is Vogue Italia. It's created by Italians. Yes it's impossible for any non-Italian to live in Italy, even for centuries, and become Italian. No black person will ever be accepted as Italian. But this is not because Italians hate blacks. They don't have anyone. They are simply in love with themselves, to much to even realize anyone else exists. Racism requires a depth of intellectual commitment that most Italians (And I mean Italian Italians. American Italians, for instance are not Italian. I've lived in Italy for some years, after spending most of my life in urban American, including very Italian American NYC. I know what I'm talking about.) are either incapable of, disinterested in, or lack the energy to invest in.

They do fashion, they do food, they do dressing up and looking good. And everyday, Italians wake up and re-discover breasts. This is all that Italian Vogue is ever about. Period.
03:32 PM on 03/20/2012
Nice generalization about Italians however I am more inclined to listen to a Black person living in Italy's opinion on the matter.
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RobertHenryEller
a micro-bio hp can handle
05:33 PM on 03/20/2012
I am white, not black. I am talking about how Italians perceive non-Italians from observing for years. And yes, I am generalizing. But I can tell you from living there, that many Italians themselves would agree with my generalizations. Some Italians even write essays and books about it.
sextonfan
Balance=each bias represented. Truth> Balance
01:21 AM on 03/20/2012
I think it's actually a problem that dressing like this is associated with being bl@ck. Why should it be? Am I supposed to dress like that because I'm bl@ck? There's a difference between gh3tto and non-gh3tto bl@ck girls and it's a shame that the people who are calling this spread r@cist don't seem to make that distinction. Now if the critique was that it mocks gh3tto girls, then they would have a point, but then Halle Berry did so in that terrible movie years and years ago and no one made a peep about it.
07:59 PM on 03/19/2012
is there a "Vogue: Afghanistan" ?
sallysuelee
just one voice among many
07:42 PM on 03/19/2012
this is a matter of perception. i choose to see it as them giving... however many pages in their magazine to pay homage to an obviously growing trend. may not be yours or my taste, but most runway stuff ain't my style either. i just hope they're some savvy black business minds out there ready to take control & advantage of this new fad.
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JustTheFacts4Me
04:36 PM on 03/19/2012
Fashion designers/artists often pull from different trends, cultures, countries, music, etc. Usually, they design over the top outfits that no real woman would wear on the street, so that wasn't a valid argument in the article. That said, no one is forced to like an artistic endeavor, but, every artist, designer, etc. has the right to create what they want. Heroin chic, grunge, military, rap, 70's, etc. all have inspired couture design
03:22 PM on 03/16/2012
The racism is so insidious (subtle) one needs intelligence to see it. Ask yourself: why the pregnant woman and the babies? I'll tell you why. How else will intelligent readers see what the photos are really saying and whom they are mocking? the thing that defines racism---and egotism, sexism, narcissism and all other "isms" is the lack of empathy for the victim(s) feelings. When you don't see or care how your actions or words affect others, you become a predator who feeds off hurting people, mostly because they are nothing to you.
Pretending you did nothing wrong, that it's just art, that those you are mocking are too sensitive, or that people are playing the race card is just an excuse to gloss over your lack of empathy.
01:48 PM on 04/25/2012
Absolutely agree, this is an outrage. Ms Sozzani should be fired! She is the editor, she had to approve all editorials.
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abolishinsanity
06:22 PM on 03/15/2012
I stopped buying most of these so-called fashion magazines years ago because they fail to realistically represent anyone I know. Yes, fantasy may be one thing, but bulls--t is another. I finally grew up and realzed that I don't need these racist, twisted rags to tell me how to dress; I rock my OWN style!