I’ve never been to Noma, René Redzepi’s famous Copenhagen restaurant. But I understand what it represents. So does everybody else — as Lisa Abend’s brilliant profile in last week’s issue makes clear, Noma represents something much larger than dinner at a particular restaurant. Redzepi is the personification of the nature worship that I wrote about two years ago, an ardent belief system among top-tier chefs that seems to skirt the distinction between gastronomy and religion.
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