BLACK VOICES

Troubled Waters: Why Africa's Largest Lake Is In Grave Danger

03/30/2015 12:31 pm ET | Updated Mar 30, 2015
DEA / K. MULLER via Getty Images

UKEREWE, Tanzania—The night is clear and cool, the pale light of the full moon shimmering on the black water of Lake Victoria. As we emerge from the bay and round a small headland, Hamisi, the crew’s leader, stands in the bow and shines a small flashlight toward a cove. Two of the other men paddle vigorously, their wooden oars the shape of long spears. The third uses a cut-off jerry can to bale water from the hull of the leaky wooden canoe.

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