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Artisan Beef 101: How to Choose the Best Beef

Posted: 10/07/11 11:12 AM ET

By John Brady, Artisan Beef Expert for Menuism.com

2011-10-06-KobeBeef.jpgHaving beef for dinner? Beef is one of the most versatile ingredients around. Will you have a steak, roast or burger? How will you prepare it: grilled, baked, roasted, fried, marinated? Whether you consult your favorite restaurant menu, cookbook or the Internet, the possibilities are practically endless. But when it comes to the first choice you have to make--about the beef itself--what will you choose?

Beef Basics: "Regular" Beef vs. Artisan Beef

To be clear, there are two basic choices: regular commodity feedlot beef and artisan beef.

The vast majority of beef in the US is the first kind. The term "commodity" suggests that there is little to no differentiation in product from one cow to the next, or from one day to the next. The large packing houses, grocery chains, most restaurants, and many consumers seem to like it that way. Why? There are no surprises, and the preparation can be done by less skilled people, according to an established system or recipe. Following that scheme, the final product on your plate will be consistent--for better or worse. The driving force in this system is economics. Efficiency, consistency and predictability lead to a competitively priced final consumer product.

The terms "artisan beef" or "artisanal beef" suggest quite the opposite. They suggest one portion or animal at a time, processed by a skilled craftsman who cares about the whole experience of eating a fine portion of beef in a pleasant, comfortable atmosphere. At the farm level, there's a farmer or rancher who cares whether his cattle are comfortable, healthy and productive. At the abattoir or butcher shop is butcher who cares about each cut of meat and selecting the best way to get the maximum value from the carcass. At the chef level is a trained professional who knows how to maximize the flavor, tenderness and presentation that makes the whole dining experience memorable. And at the consumer level, there are people like you and me: someone who has a holistic appreciation for all that has gone into the meal before it's plated and presented. There's an appreciation and recognition of the fact that the animal has fulfilled its purpose, and that the people involved have done their very best to bring a healthy, tasty food to the table.

The Spectrum of Artisan Beef

Artisan beef encompasses many types of beef products, ranging from Kobe beef to grass-finished beef, to grass-fed beef. Here's a brief overview of each of these types of artisan beef.

Kobe Beef: True Kobe beef specifies a particular breed of cattle; it's very expensive and full of fat from a high-carb diet.

Grass-Finished Beef: "Grass-finished" means that the cow has been brought to a stage of physical maturity and was also fed well enough and long enough that there is intramuscular fat or marbling in the meat product. Grass-finished beef will have a lot of flavor representative of region where it was produced, and the season of the year that it was harvested.

Grass-Fed Beef: "Grass-fed" is a very generic term that merely suggests that the beef cow or calf was fed grass at some point in its life. This is the most misleading term in the artisan beef industry because it doesn't actually specify anything. The meat product may be extra lean, gamey, and/or very good depending on the producer's production practices. But the fact is this: all cattle are grass fed to one degree or another, except true veal calves. The stomach, or rumen, of a cow must have some grass or forage to function properly.

How to Choose the Best Beef

So in light of these confusing terms, how do you select the cleanest, healthiest, tastiest beef product? Simple: get to know your farmer. Here are a few basics to inquire about.

  • Seek sources where cattle are out in the pasture rather than eating from a feed bunk in a pen.
  • Ask about the farmer's health practices. Does he use vaccines, antibiotics or hormones?
  • Find out whether the animals are EVER fed grain.
  • Inquire whether the animals are brought to a finished stage (preferable).
  • Visit the farm where the animals are, if possible.

In addition to these inquiries, know where your meat comes from. There is no substitute for this. In a restaurant, the menu should reference the source of the beef. If it doesn't, kindly ask your server. Other consumer packaging is legally required to disclose certain minimal information about the source of origin.

Take the labels to your computer to seek further information. Labels that say simply, "Product of USA" mean you have a commodity in your hand. If the label references a specific farm or processor, search to see what you can find out about it. Find out whether the producer is a true artisan or if the graphics whizzes have just designed a label to make you think they are.

If you want to eat beef that's healthy, tasty and safe, and will make for a highly satisfying dining experience, go to the source, and get to know your rancher.

Do you know where your beef comes from? Will you be checking labels from now on?

Related Links from Menuism
A Brief History of Grass-Fed Beef
Yakiniku: The Ultimate Japanese DIY Barbecue
Eating with the Seasons: The Japanese Way

John Brady is one of a now-rare breed of farmer-ranchers who comes from an unbroken chain of family farmers going back multiple generations. He is the third generation currently farming the same land in Idaho. After earning a degree in Agronomy and a Master's degree in Agricultural Economics, borrowing money, and participating in USDA farm commodity programs during the 1970s, he has finally overcome most of that to be a maverick in doing things the "new old-fashioned" way, working with nature to raise beef the way it was intended: on grass, legumes and forage. Watch John move cows at BradysBeef.com, read the Brady's Beef blog and keep up to date on all things Brady's Beef on Twitter.

Image used under a Creative Commons license by nWevurski.

 

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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Andrew Gunther
11:17 PM on 10/10/2011
If you want to ensure what you are getting was raised the way you want it there is only one way unless you care to take a degree in agriculture. Meet certified by Animal Welfare Approved. http://www.animalwelfareapproved.org/consumers/ the only free audited seal that ensures what is on the label is truthful.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
MishMish7
04:21 PM on 10/09/2011
I have never bought this trend of Kobe beef or 'artisan' blah blah. For meat, a good local butcher will get you a great cut of meat and know their sources by heart most of the time. They know the ranchers since their orders tend to be smaller. You don't need to go to a specialized snobby meat place or market for this. And in general, supermarkets are the worst places to get beef or any meat. That includes Whole Foods.

Just find a local butcher, stop by, and ask questions (friendly ones, which do not make you seem like you have your nose in the air). They will always be happy to help.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Menuism
11:58 AM on 10/10/2011
Great points! Good butchers know exactly where their meat comes from and, typically, how the animal was raised -- and should be happy to share information with curious customers.
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
hp blogger Craig "Meathead" Goldwyn
BBQ Whisperer/Hedonism Evangelist/AmazingRibs.com
01:06 PM on 10/10/2011
Sadly, butchers are going out of business rapidly. I have lost two fine butchers in the past five years. I now must rely on the butchers in my grocery stores, and in order to get what I want I have to call them in advance often. I good butcher is more important than a good stockbroker.

But don't knock "Kobe" (more properly called wagyu in the US, the breed of cow - Kobe comes only from Kobe in Japan). It is very special. But don't bother with kobe burgers. The diff is barely noticeable there. Try wagyu steaks.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
MishMish7
12:50 AM on 10/11/2011
Ah, I will definitely try the wagyu steaks - never heard of them. And yes, the kobe burgers have been a disappointment really. But maybe I have been given stuff which is not the real thing? I have no idea.
03:22 AM on 10/08/2011
I have a friend with ridiculous amounts of money, and he cooked up some very high end Kobe or similar beef for a small party. I seemed to be the only one not impressed with it. Too soft, too fatty, and to be honest, I didn't think it tasted all that much better than the typical Angus stuff at the local grocery store. Add in the price of it, and I can't say I would ever buy any any of it myself, even if I hit the lottery and had stupid money. But I don't understand high end wine either, it tastes about the same (usually bad) as the cheaper stuff does.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
MishMish7
04:14 PM on 10/09/2011
I agree about the Kobe beef. I am not all that impressed. Get me a good local butcher that knows his trade and has been in business for while and I will show you a good cut of beef .

Wine is a different story to me....I don't believe you have to pay a whole lot of money for a good bottle. Trader Joes has a great selection for very reasonable prices.
01:14 AM on 10/10/2011
I just don't get the appeal of wine in general. My sister for years gave me wine on my Bday or Xmas, and it always sat in the fridge for years, or was given away to someone else. This wasn't cheap stuff, the last one was a lot of money. I was much happier with the nuts she gets me most times since I finally told her to get me something, anything else. It's like coffee to me, I don't get why anyone would want to drink it. Not that most wine is anywhere near as bad as coffee is, but it's just another thing on my list of stuff I dislike. It's a long list.
10:00 PM on 10/07/2011
"Artisan Beef"?

All well & good...but why does the photo attached to this post show grade 4 or 5 Kobe beef from Japan?

I guess it might be considered artisan, but @ $140+ per pound, it's hardly an option for, well, ANYONE.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Stephen Thorpe
Every Breath you take - I'll be watching you!
10:36 PM on 10/07/2011
Gosh darn $140 + a lb.? There's a sucker born every day. Further the beef in the picture is so laden with marbled fat, you'd have to make sure they had a defibrillator on site at the restaurant.
;-)
06:00 PM on 10/08/2011
I wouldn't say the author is recommending Kobe beef (the most expensive cut on his own website is ribeye at $15/lb.) but is suggesting that consumers know where their beef comes from, how it is fed and cared for & being a generally more educated consumer.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Menuism
12:01 PM on 10/10/2011
Thanks for your comment, Robert. We can confirm that this is exactly the author's intent: to equip beef consumers with the knowledge to help them make informed decisions, and to encourage curiosity about where and how that meat was produced.
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HazelPethigFan
I don't know until I know
09:27 PM on 10/07/2011
but wait...I am so cornfused here...

pastures have many non-grasses. Even tree leaves are eaten by cattle. How can artisan beef be "grass fed" when in a pasture?? And what about winter when they are fed alfalfa hay (another non-grass)

Corn fed means cattle aren't grass fed....but WAIT...corn is 100% a grass by definition. That means 100% corn fed is 100% grass fed...but it ain't. am...so....cornfused.

Oh please, please please..one of you huffpost nonfarmer urbanites needs to help un-cornfuse this little farmer here.
02:35 AM on 10/08/2011
You know well enough that corn seed is agriculturally a cereal grain, it doesn't matter that the corn plant itself is botanically a grass. I also love the assumption that anyone who disagrees with your viewpoint is a non-farmer urbanite (because I suppose no one but farmers are allowed to have any opinions on farmers, and clearly all farmers agree with you). Get off your high horse.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
KurtMichaelFriese
What's wrong with my micro-bio?
03:38 PM on 10/08/2011
Well said, and well appreciated, but you needn't bother. I don't know if Hazel here is actually paid to patrol the web schilling for big corporate agribusiness, but s/he does it almost constantly, with little else apparently to do, so I hope they're paying him/her.
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HazelPethigFan
I don't know until I know
09:20 PM on 10/07/2011
"At the farm level, there's a farmer or rancher who cares whether his cattle are comfortable, healthy and productive.

So...this implies that farmers who aren't raising politically correct "artisan" beef think its ok to raise unhealthy cattle. what farmer wants unhealthy cattle? really? LOL!

This is a typical article written by clueless anti-Farmer urbanites
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Eric Mann
Do you want to be on the opposite side of Progress
12:12 PM on 10/08/2011
If they live and work on CAFOs, it would seem res ipsa locquitor
04:39 PM on 10/07/2011
This article would be more aptly named, "Beef 101: How to choose the best foods that cause heart disease". Which is of course the number one cause of death in this country. Why not have an article on here about how to select the best artisan cigars or cigarettes? Same health consequences. And any article about beef would be incomplete without information about where to locate the nearest "artisan" hospital, because you're going to need one after all of that saturated fat and cholesterol - whether you got the flesh from a local farm or not.
08:22 PM on 10/07/2011
buzzkill, you're right! If you were to only eat raw vegetables, you would never get heart disease, but you can have that life buzzkill lightning, plenty of people live into their 80's eating, smokin', drinkin' and hittin' that sheeeott.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
AngelaQuattrano
I just like to write comments
03:54 AM on 10/08/2011
Actually, the article should be named, "Artisan Beef 101: How to spend more money and time than you ever dreamed possible buying beef."
03:52 PM on 10/07/2011
Occupy Wall Street!
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Karl Wilder
03:01 PM on 10/07/2011
Buy beef only from farmers you know. If we begin to boycott that nasty grocery store antibiotic filled product then it will go away.
01:56 PM on 10/07/2011
You can buy beef patties a la carte at Mcdonalds. They are pretty cheap and you can cut them up to make Chili or sloppy joes.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
olitenup
01:22 PM on 10/07/2011
Buy local beef. Ranchers are running amok with public land and not paying a fair lease rate to taxpayers.
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FaunaAndFlora
Daughter of Pan
10:17 PM on 10/09/2011
What if the ranchers are growing the local beef? Seriously. West of the Mississippi, most of the local beef will come from a ranch.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Kevin Chung Lin
11:34 AM on 10/07/2011
Applegate's Farms practices grassfeeding very well with their beef