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Andy Bellatti

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Beyond Pink Slime

Posted: 03/13/2012 5:57 pm

As you have probably heard by now, the food scandal "du jour" has to do with "pink slime," also known as mechanically-separated meat (or, when made by Beef Products Inc., "Boneless Beef Lean Trimmings").

This ammonia-treated scrap meat -- the same one some fast food giants recently phased out -- has been widely used since the early 1990s, is reportedly present in 70 percent of all ground beef products, and is a staple in school cafeterias (seven million pounds (!) are expected to be served in school lunches across the country over the next few months).

The story essentially writes itself. When fast food companies, infamous for cutting corners at any cost, turn their noses up at a questionably safe ingredient that ends up on the lunch trays of schoolchildren, headlines are to be expected -- and rightfully so.

The meat industry has responded via a new website: the awkwardly-titled Pink Slime Is A Myth (I have yet to comprehend how something real and tangible can be labeled a myth).

While I do not dismiss the recent grassroots efforts that have gained significant strength via a petition to get pink slime out of school cafeterias, I worry that the focus on it detracts from bigger and more important food system issues, and provides the meat industry with a convenient distraction and an easily fixable problem that can effortlessly be spun into a public-relations success.

At its core, the pink slime controversy is a case of "same script, different cast." It is no different from ingredient obsessions that led to trans-fat free chips and sugar-loaded products "free of high fructose corn syrup."

Undoubtedly, phasing out trans fats is a formidable public health step. However, the absence of trans fats does not intrinsically make chips "more nutritious" or "healthy," but simply "less worse."

In the same way that soda made with cane sugar in lieu of high fructose corn syrup is not a healthful beverage, there needs to be a clear message that "slime-free" ground beef is by no means the golden standard, especially when an ever-growing body of research continues to highlight the harmful effects of red meat consumption (the latest: it "contributes substantially to premature death").

We can't forget that the majority of ground beef in the United States, even if free of said "slime," comes from animals (35 million beef cattle, to be exact) that are treated miserably, is processed by employees under horrible working conditions, and severely damages the environment. And, of course, there are also the rampant recalls and food safety concerns.

It's also important to remember that other important puzzle piece: agricultural policy that makes ground beef cheap and, therefore, ubiquitous. The United States is the number one exporter of beef, and the average American consumes 57 pounds of it each year (a figure that has been on a steady decline, but is nevertheless one of the highest in the world).

I do not bemoan public interest in school lunch issues and sketchy additives, but it is crucial to not lose sight of the big picture -- "pink slime" is one of many symptoms of a broken food system. Even if the meat industry were to announce the end of ammonia-treated beef, they should continue to be held accountable for a multitude of atrocious practices as well as a food product that poses various health risks.

Slime or no slime, red meat should be a rarity in school cafeterias.

Cross-posted from Small Bites blog

 

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04:09 PM on 04/09/2012
OMG!!! This may not be actual "Soylent Green" but the horrifying concept is the same: feeding people something other than what they think it is. A process aided by a complicit governmental body, the USDA. Revolting!
12:30 PM on 04/06/2012
@Andy Bellatti:First of all, great article, thank you. I appreciate the broad perspective, the distinction of "less worse", and the inset links. I do suggest using a distinction for red meat and food production; the broken industrial food production system is not the only one going. There are many great sustainable farms around, whether using traditional methods or new methods such as aquaponics and bioponics. Are you aware that the lipid (fat) profile of animals raised wild on their natural forage differs significantly from animals in captivity? Do any of the nutritional studies you've seen, which show negative correlations to beef consumption, distinguish between organic, grass-fed, free-ranging, cared-for animals vs. factory animals? None of the research I've seen so far does, and all the research I've seen on healthy-animal meat tells me that it is a health-food for most, if not all people on this planet.
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Kevin Mills
Think for yourself!
09:42 AM on 03/14/2012
This is a truly fascinating discussion. It is telling that the USDA has declared the LFTB pink slime beef, it should tell us all something about beef. I am no vegetarian but I recently have discovered that It is not the best thing for my body to eat beef in 10 or more meals per week. I have been cutting down, not because of the poor mistreated cows, not because of the damage that they are doing to our environment, but because of what beef does to my body. keeping track of select, choice, prime, certified organic, grain fed, corn fed, grass fed, makes my head spin. it is exhausting, and I shouldn't be so obsessed with a food product that simply gives me energy like anything else does. I won't likely give up steaks, and burgers forever, but I have decided to make a conscious choice to not eat 57 pounds per year, hopefully I can cut it down to 20 lbs, or less, and hopefully that leads to a healthier lifestyle.

on a side not from that, isn't this pink slime what they make hot dogs with? nobody is losing their minds over that, with summer coming, and the hot dogs at the ready, we should be thinking about what exactly is it we are eating.
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howtowasteyourlife
08:55 AM on 04/03/2012
No, pink slime is NOT what hot dogs are made from. that is an entirely different product. Hot dogs are made from "mechanically separated" meat, whether it be pork, beef, chicken, or turkey. While it may sound similar to how pink slime is made, it is not. Hot dogs, believe it or not, are made using cuts of meat that people would normally eat. There may be a fair amount of trimmings mixed in to increase the fat content. Pink slime, on the other hand, is made from scraps that would have normally been declared inedible for humans and turned into pet food. These are trimmings from the very outermost layer of meat that are so contaminated by bacteria (due to our industrial animal farming model) that even the application of ammonia gas can't kill them all and make it totally safe to consume.
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Kevin Mills
Think for yourself!
02:06 PM on 04/03/2012
Thanks for the info, I wasn't sure about the hot dog thing. Like I said, hopefully the pink slime media scare will cause people to think about what else is in their jumbled mass of cow flesh before they eat it. (I like it as much as the next guy, but I have to admit, beef production is disgusting, from the ranch to the supermarket, everything about it is perverse) I honestly think that if ABC did the same expose, but instead of just focusing on the pink slime, they showed the entire slaughter process, as many people would have been outraged, and decided to change their eating habits. If our Beef demand drops, then it would continue to open the door for grass fed, pastured beef, prices may go up, and it could lead to the end of some fast food burger joints, but that wouldn't be the worst thing in the world.
12:30 PM on 04/06/2012
Hey, about the food choices - it's not that complicated, don't let your head spin over it. Choose grass-fed and free-ranging for land animals. Organic is good. Don't confuse cuts of meat with how the animal was raised.
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Kevin Mills
Think for yourself!
01:58 PM on 04/06/2012
yeah very true, thanks for the input, I meant to infer that I am tired of the minutiae of meat and food culture that I had immersed myself in, and how misleading some meat labels can be to the average person, I could ramble on about this for paragraphs, but I basically just wish food was food, and that there were no outside forces influencing me on what to eat.
09:33 AM on 03/14/2012
Andy you lost me here. I agree with Bettina. Plus you have this almost go vegan flare to your writing here, which in some way pink slime provides you with a convenient platform to attempt to push that "save the animals", "eat less red meat" liberal drabble.

I love hamburgers, but I want it to be 100% beef, not mostly beef with ammonia soaked pink slime filler too.
12:09 PM on 03/14/2012
It isn't a "save the animals", "eat less red meat" platform. It is simply an objective, big-picture look at factory farming and the health consequences that come with red meat intake (the evidence only continues to get stronger).

I don't think anyone can argue that a plant-centric style of eating (which includes veganism, but can also refer to "flexitarianism" or omnivorism where animal flesh is the exception rather than the norm) isn't healthy.

I certainly will never defend the barbaric treatment of animals in CAFOs. I also fail to understand how taking an interest in a food system that is so abusive towards animals, human beings, and the environment is strictly a "liberal" issue.
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03:54 AM on 03/15/2012
agree, except that isn't liberal, it's misguided & misinformed, yes, but not liberal
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howtowasteyourlife
08:57 AM on 04/03/2012
Misguided? Misinformed? So, you think it's okay to serve human beings a product that would normally be fed to pets, because it's so contaminated with fecal bacteria that even the treatment with ammonia gas can't make it completely safe to consume? And being against that is "misguided"?
12:42 AM on 03/14/2012
They made a movie about this stuff a long time ago. Turns out in 1989, an entire river of the stuff was flowing through an old pneumatic subway tunnel in New York City.
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Kevin Mills
Think for yourself!
09:30 AM on 03/14/2012
and it put everybody in really bad moods. who are we gonna call to get rid of this stuff?
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Bettina Elias Siegel
10:27 PM on 03/13/2012
Andy:

I agree with you to some extent, but as the originator of the Change.org petition against pink slime in school food, I did want to share my thoughts as well.

The comparison of pink slime to an "ingredient obsession" is not quite apt. People aren't engaging in mindless "nutritionism" here; rather they are rightly quite pissed off to learn that their hamburger (and could there be a more iconic, treasured food in this country?) contains undisclosed “pink slime," and that the government, in deciding it didn't need to be disclosed, sided against consumers' interests and with a company that has earned hundreds of millions as a result.

The reason that the petition is getting so much media attention -- along with almost a quarter million signatures in a mere seven days - is that, for many Americans, this is their first real wake-up call about Big Food. You and I might be well aware of the interlocking, cozy relationship between the food industry and government, but for many less educated consumers, pink slime has done much to inform and outrage.

So rather having naively provided the beef industry with a "convenient distraction and an easily fixable problem that can effortlessly be spun into a public-relations success," (and by the way, I sure hope this is an "easily fixable" problem but am not so optimistic), I feel quite proud to have contributed in my own small way to the national conversation about food this week.

Bettina
07:24 AM on 03/14/2012
Hi, Bettina -

Interesting perspective. I agree that making the general public more concerned about how their food produced is a good thing.

The thing is, though, this seems like an odd issue to go after. What exactly is the problem with taking the trimmings that inevitably result when people's steaks are cut and reclaiming them for ground beef?

Please explain exactly what you think the problem is with reclaimed beef trimmings. It's not like anyone expects their ground beef at the discount store to be cuts of filet mignon lovingly hand-ground by artisinal butchers.
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Bettina Elias Siegel
09:54 AM on 03/14/2012
Hi Honeybear64.

I've written about this at length elsewhere but will briefly summarize my main concerns here:

1. By BPI's own admission, the scraps used to make pink slime are highly pathogenic because they are very likely to have come into contact with cow excrement in the butchering process.

2. Because the raw material is inherently dangerous, there is a heightened risk in putting it in the food supply. When BPI's ammonia process shut down accidentally for a mere SIXTY SECONDS in 2009, the use of its product resulted in 26,800 pounds of contaminated ground beef. (NY Times, Michael Moss, December 2009) I find that deeply troubling, don't you?

3. BPI admirably tests for several known pathogens. Last year in Germany, 45 people died and 3,700+ were sickened from a previously UNKNOWN strain of E. coli.

4. The American consumer has a basic understanding of what they are getting when they buy "ground beef" -- ground round, ground chuck, ground sirloin. This is an entirely different material yet its presence is not disclosed to consumers. That's economic fraud. And BPI knows full well that if it has to be disclosed on package labeling, people won't buy it, as evidenced by the outcry this week.

I'm limited by HuffPo's word limit but that's a good start.
11:24 AM on 03/14/2012
As a professional in the food industry, I'll throw my two cents in - The problem exactly isn't the trimmings themselves, it's the ammonia process to eliminate pathogens and the non-disclosure issue that are the problems. I, personally, have no issue with using the whole beast, tip to tip. However, adulterating a food product by spraying or dousing in ammonia sounds and feels wrong to me. If it's not clean to begin with, should we really be chemically treating it for consumption, or perhaps it would be better utilized say for dog food?