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Geoduck Ice Cream: Artisan Ice Cream Gone Wrong?

Posted: 08/22/2012 9:41 am

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This is the latest installment of Foodie Underground.

Salted caramel ice cream. Orange coriander ice cream. Sweet summer corn buttermilk sherbert.

The whole put-anything-you-can-find-and-see-if-it-works-in-ice-cream-trend is tasty at times, edgy at best, but has become so ubiquitous that off-color flavors rarely merit a reaction.

That was until I saw the geoduck ice cream sign.

I was driving home to my parents' house, a big yellow house nestled somewhere between some trees and a few salt water bays in the Puget Sound. I had taken the backroads to avoid traffic, which entailed driving through a quaint, waterfront town of Allyn. There is a knitting store that we go to in the winter, a burger joint in the summer and a small dock to walk on. A good afternoon excursion on the days when you need to spice up country life.

Windows down, music blaring I slowed down to the required 35 miles per hour and took in the sea salt air of home. I was going slow enough that the sign was hard to miss.

"Geo Duck Ice Cream." Right below the "Fresh Peach Sunda." Who needs the "y" anyway?

I'm sorry... what?


I was tired of driving and didn't have the energy to turn around, but I was so shocked that anyone would ever dare make ice cream out of Washington State's most treasured/hated shellfish that I made a mental note of the sign, and told myself that before the week was up I would have to return.

For those who aren't well versed on the geoduck, it's a shellfish that happens to be the largest bivalve along Puget Sound. In laymen's terms: it has a three foot-long neck and looks pretty gross. But we kind of have a thing for them up in Washington. A sort of love/hate affair. The Chinese certainly love them, which means they're good for the economy, and Evergreen State College thinks they're so great that they've even made mascot status.

A Washington native, I had personally never tried one. But this was the summer of "just say yes" policy. It's a travel policy that I try to stick to, even when travel means returning to my home state. And of course, even when it means tasting geoduck ice cream. Fortunately my good friend Dave had come up for the weekend, and as my regular co-host of dinner parties and lover of all things food related, I knew he had to be up for the challenge.

"I am so glad you wanted to go do this with me," I said, after parking in Allyn and walking up to the small Olympic Mountain Ice Cream shop.

"I didn't say I wanted to do this," he responded.

Right.

It should be noted that when you walk into an ice cream shop featuring geoduck ice cream with two cameras in hand, it's sort of obvious what you want to order.

"Oh, there's the cream kind and a sorbet," I said, wondering why in God's name you would make two variations of the stuff.

"Well, the cream based one is a stronger one. A really strong geoduck taste with butter. That's what we recommend for people that really like geoduck." said the young woman working behind the ice cream counter. I tried hard not to visibly shudder. "The other one has a really good lime taste and is a little lighter because it's a sorbet," she continued. "You really should test both."

And that was how Dave and I came to be standing with test spoons of geoduck ice cream and sorbet.

A normal person would of course try the samples, pat themselves on the back, kindly say "that was interesting, but I think I am good," and continue on their merry way. Not in my case. I was just off a week of picking backyard blackberries, muddling them with basil simple syrup and baking almond, cardamom, red currant scones for breakfast. I had to switch things up. You can only go the mason jar and sea salt route for so long.

"Well, we have to get a full scoop... it is what we came here to do," I looked at Dave somehow trying to coax some encouragement from him.

"Ok, fine, a cup," he said.

$2.71 later and we had ourselves a styrofoam (I know, I know) cup of lime geoduck sorbet. The things you do for a culinary experience.

If you're wondering what geoduck sorbet tastes like, it's simple: a delightful, zesty dose of sweet lemon, lime flavor, followed by a really weird infusion of chewy geoduck, which really just tastes like a bad clam. No really, it's sorbet with small pieces of geoduck in it. As Dave put it after we both agreed that despite our hatred of food waste, we simply couldn't finish the thing, "I only had one meal, I really should have been able to eat more of that."

Continue reading the rest of the article here.

 

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This is the latest installment of Foodie Underground. Salted caramel ice cream. Orange coriander ice cream. ...
This is the latest installment of Foodie Underground. Salted caramel ice cream. Orange coriander ice cream. ...
 
 
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Lucy Mouse Head
08:16 AM on 08/23/2012
I want to say that sounds gross, but then I think of some of the things I've eaten over the years. I've forgotten many of their names.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
HellBank
Curve: The loveliest distance between two points.
08:09 AM on 08/23/2012
Eat it. Let it show Ex Lax how the big boys operate.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
hanascar
my micro-bio is still empty
07:00 AM on 08/23/2012
Would You Eat Shellfish Ice Cream?

NO
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Ashlieeeee
Free thinkers are dangerous!
04:02 AM on 08/23/2012
Does a Geoduck arrive when a Psyduck and Geodude mate?
02:37 PM on 08/22/2012
Disappointed you didn't try both variations, but thanks for taking one for the team with the sorbet.
03:27 PM on 08/22/2012
I sampled both, but only got the full cup of the sorbet :)
01:35 PM on 08/22/2012
Next time try First Lady Dolly Madison's favorite ice cream flavor: Oyster.
03:27 PM on 08/22/2012
Hmmm.... have you had it?? Sounds intense!
05:18 PM on 08/22/2012
There is some speculation as to the original recipe. Some historians think that it was vanilla based with poached oyster pieces, some that it was actually a frozen oyster stew that was commonly served hot in cold months. So as to the original recipe, I havn't, but I have had oyster ice cream in a Japanese restaurant. It did not have pieces, but was made with the liquor of the oysters. It tasted like sweet creamy seaweed. Not unpleasant, just different. I think I will try the squid flavored Ramune (soda) next time.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
peppertrekker
To have some fun and maybe share a pun
12:07 PM on 08/22/2012
GEODUCKS ARE VERY PHALLIC looking.
WishfulThinkingRulesAll
Your micro-bio is empty
07:47 AM on 08/23/2012
"In laymen's terms: ... three foot-long ... and looks pretty gross."

Reminds me of my johnson.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
peppertrekker
To have some fun and maybe share a pun
11:48 AM on 08/23/2012
Maybe that's why you have so many fans?
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
SBinF
I enjoy saying ironic things.
11:57 AM on 08/22/2012
Mollusk ice cream?

Does not sound appetizing.

I'm throwing my annual ice cream party in a few weeks. I thought I was going outside the norm with a maple syrup and candied bacon offering. Geoduck? No thanks!
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GraphicMatt
Somebody make me a sandwich!
11:41 AM on 08/22/2012
I've always wanted to try geoduck.......not as an ice cream flavor though.
WishfulThinkingRulesAll
Your micro-bio is empty
07:47 AM on 08/23/2012
Your mom told me she tasted like geoduck. Having never had geoduck I had to take her word for it.
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GraphicMatt
Somebody make me a sandwich!
11:46 AM on 08/23/2012
That was sort of a dou che bag thing to say.  Why would you say something so nasty about my mother?
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PalaceOfWisdom
Want gun control? End the MIC
11:39 AM on 08/22/2012
I thought chipotle chocolate gelatto was bold (and it's very tasty BTW). I would try this, but I'm not sure I'd enjoy it.
03:28 PM on 08/22/2012
Ooh, that does sound good!
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PRONESE
Somewhat Opinionated Curmudgeon
10:09 AM on 08/22/2012
First of all, this flavor of ice cream has to be neck and neck above all others.
Sorry... Really!
Grin.
R/ PRONESE