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  <title>Brad Haskel</title>
  <link href="http://huffingtonpost.com/author/index.php?author=brad-haskel"/>
  <updated>2013-05-18T11:26:15-04:00</updated>
  <author>
    <name>Brad Haskel</name>
  </author>
  <id xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom">http://www.huffingtonpost.com/author/index.php?author=brad-haskel</id>
  <rights>Copyright 2008, HuffingtonPost.com, Inc.</rights>
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  <generator>Good old fashioned elbow grease.</generator>

<entry>
    <title>Making the Case for Rioja</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/making-the-case-for-rioja_b_3246271.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.3246271</id>
    <published>2013-05-10T18:00:36-04:00</published>
    <updated>2013-05-10T18:00:42-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[What is so compelling about Rioja, in particular, is the almost seamless meshing of the traditional, the modern, and those who embrace elements of both.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Brad Haskel</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/"><![CDATA[La Rioja, as a wine region, has it all. There are three distinctive sub-regions: the Alavesa, Rioja Alta, and Rioja Baja. The primary city most central to all three sub-regions is Logrono, where the Ebro River runs through. Actually, the Ebro River weaves its way all the way through La Rioja.  Logrono is a charming, and relatively quiet small city, currently famous for its tapas crawl on  Calle Laurel in the center of town. Historically, it is famous for its location on the religious path of the  pilgrammage of the Way of St James of Campostela. The food is local, and certainly super fresh. Many of the tapas bars specialize in one or  two of the local items like the incredible Jamon Iberico, the local mushrooms (Setas), great fresh anchovies, stuffed pequillo peppers, white asparagus, baby artichokes and the famous tortilla, an egg and potato tart. The wines are local and affordable, the way wines from a wine region should be for the locals, and they are referred to, whether they are Blanco, Rosado, or Tinto when they are ordered, as a "Rioja."  <br />
     <br />
 What is so compelling about Rioja, in particular, is the almost seamless meshing of the traditional, the modern, and those who embrace elements of both. This is true of the culinary world, as well as the world of wine. There is something for everyone, rich and poor; that allows Rioja a culture that centers around food and wine. Food and wine are unifying elements of a society, rather than a dividing line of social class. There is great street food. There is great traditional food, and there is great molecular gastronomy at highly rated Michelin starred restaurants. <br />
<br />
<strong>The Blending of Tradition and Innovation</strong><br />
     <br />
No winery symbolizes the embracing of the very traditional, with the very modern, better than Marques de Riscal. Marques de Riscal was founded in 1860 by Don Camilio Hurtado de Amezaga, who was the Marques de Riscal. He had lived in Bordeaux in the 1830s during the first Carlist War, a civil war for control of Spain, fought by the descendents of Ferdinand VII, following his death. Don Camilio Hurtado de Amazaga returned from Bordeaux influenced by the methods and traditions of the region; in particular their use of wood barrels for aging, and in winemaking practices, the destemming of grapes before fermentation.  <br />
   <br />
Today, guests of the winery can visit the ancient cellars of Marques de Riscal, and see wines still remaining there from as far back as 1862. On the same visit, after walking through the cellars, and out of the original building, you can walk over to the very futuristic Frank Gehry designed hotel on the same grounds.  Somehow, in some way, the innovative, and the modern take an inspiration from tradition. Some wineries, such as Lopez de Heredia, stay very true to their historical methods of production, while others, such as Baigorri, show in the architecture of their winery, as well as their production methods; a clean break from the traditional.<br />
<br />
<strong>The Regions and Grapes</strong>  <br />
<br />
   The Alavesa, whose boundaries go into Basque country at the base of the Sierra Cantabria mountains, and Navarre;  along with Rioja Alta, have vineyards that get more of a cooler Atlantic influence, where Tempranillo is the star red grape. Tempranillo is a sexy grape, with a weight somewhere between Pinot Noir, and lighter styled Merlot. Temprano is translated to English as early, and that is when it ripens.   Garnacha, which had traditionally been grown in Rioja Baja's warmer, more Mediterannean  vineyards, has dropped dramatically in their plantings, accounting for less than 10 percent, today. Now, according to Ana Fabiano's insightful book, <em>The Wine Regions of Rioja</em>, 65 percent of the Garnacha plantings are in the Rioja Alta. Still, some of the more historic villages for Garnacha remain in Rioja Baja. Mazuelo and Graciano are the other minor grapes that are permitted and planted. Even though they represent less than 5 percent of the total red plantings, there are some notable bottling of both grapes on their own individually.<br />
<br />
 The characteristics of  Garnacha, a hearty grape popularized in the southern Rhone Valley, as well as Rioja;  a  traditionally important grape, blended with Tempranillo, to provide the backbone of very traditional Rioja wines.<br />
   <br />
The white grapes are Viura (Macabeo), which is the primary grape, along with Garnacha Blanca and Malvasia. The combination of Viura's acidity and structure, Malvasia's floral aromatics, and Garnacha Blanca, which adds a boost of alcohol, and is low on acidity.<br />
  <br />
In 2009, four indigenous grapes became approved by the DOCa. One red, Maturana Tinta, and three whites, Maturana Blanca, Tempranillo Blanco, and Turruntes, all of which can be said to really being in experimental stages.<br />
<br />
  <strong> Rioja in the Market Today</strong><br />
<br />
The uniqueness of Rioja as a wine region is wrapped in the sub-climates, the subtle nuances of the vast changes from one area even within the same sub-climate, and the dramatically different, just a short distance away. This is the reason for the uniqueness of terroir in Burgundy, and I believe it is an incredibly important factor in the production of Rioja wines as well. The blending of compatible grapes, and magically historic estates provides much of the backdrop of Bordeaux's special qualities. Rioja has that too. So, Rioja, in its own style has their own stamp on the two major characteristics of Bordeaux, and Burgundy, while clearly maintaining an aura of their own.  <br />
   <br />
Still, the principles of supply and demand dictate the wine  market. This is as true now, as it ever was. While the prices of classified Bordeaux, rare Burgundies  soar in emerging markets; there comes a time to look at what people are paying for, and what the motivation is behind the purchase.<br />
  <br />
Rioja offers real value. The Reservas, Gran Reservas, and "High Expression wines" are still in financial reality for a special occasion. These are wines that have some of the great elements of Bordeaux and Burgundy wrapped together in a single region. Yes, these are the wines that still are a relative bargain, in comparison to the outrageous pricing of Bordeaux and top Burgundy wines.<br />
   <br />
The DOCa laws state that a red Reserva wine must have a minimum of one year in oak barrels, and at minimum sold in its fourth year. Gran Reservas must be aged a minimum of two years in oak barrels and an additional three years in bottle. Many of the top producers far exceed these requirements. If you were a restaurateur, would you purchase a top red Burgundy, which might take years to come around to drinking well; or would you purchase a young classified Bordeaux, which might take decades to come around? The red Reservas and Gran Reservas of Rioja are ready to drink upon release... and in my mind, are equally as great.  I know which I would pick.]]></content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Benoit Gouez: An Insider's View of Moet &amp; Chandon</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/benoit-gouez-an-insiders-view_b_3009028.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.3009028</id>
    <published>2013-04-04T17:47:28-04:00</published>
    <updated>2013-04-04T17:47:32-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Recently, I had the opportunity to meet with Benoit Gouez, the charismatic Chef de Cave of Moet & Chandon. Benoit was traveling through the U.S. to speak with Sommeliers and wine buyers -- Champagne lovers throughout the country.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Brad Haskel</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/"><![CDATA[Recently, I had the opportunity to meet with Benoit Gouez, the charismatic Chef de Cave of Moet &amp; Chandon. Benoit was traveling through the U.S. to speak with Sommeliers and wine buyers -- Champagne lovers throughout the country. <br />
 <br />
   Moet &amp; Chandon has always been a leader in Champagne, and today they take their role differently than in the past. Today, as Benoit points out, they are more active in explaining their positions.<br />
<br />
"I think that people expect leaders to show the way. We have been discreet for a while, for some years now we are back explaining what we do."<br />
<br />
One demonstrable method of showing off the quality of Moet &amp; Chandon is to taste it. During our meeting, we tasted the recent 2004 Grand Vintage, followed by the 1993, the 1983, and finally the 1973. As in many great vintage Champagnes, there is a "house style" that lets a taster know there are similarities, but at the same time, each vintage has its own personality. <br />
<br />
Benoit describes the "house style" as,<br />
<br />
   <blockquote>"Distinctive, bright fruitiness, seductive palate and elegant maturity born of the slow, gradual progression from vine to cellar and the interlocking, complementary skills of vine growers, vat men, cellar men, oenologists, and other professionals, all under the guidance of the Chef de Cave."</blockquote><br />
<br />
   When vintage Champagne is tasted, the vintage itself plays a role in the unique flavors of a wine. Champagne is the most northerly of all wine production regions in France.  What does the specific vintage bring in terms of what the harvest provided? Benoit elaborated on the advantages of being the largest landholder in Champagne.<br />
<br />
 <blockquote>  "Bigger is better! In the northern climate of Champagne, the quality, size, and  diversity of our vineyards and grape supplies gives us unique advantages enjoyed by no others. We have the luxury of choosing the best. Our ability to select from a wide range of grapes is as essential to the constancy of the Imperial range as it is to the originality of the Grand Vintages.<br />
In Champagne, we blend grape varieties, villages, and years due to the challenges with climate. In that context, the more diversity you get in your  grapes, the more chance you have to get the right and complementary ones. Moet &amp; Chandon owns the largest estate in Champagne with 1,150 hectares of prime vineyards. Combined with our contracted grapes, we get supply from more than 230 villages, giving unrivalled nuances to our wines.<br />
<br />
We believe in customized, adaptable oenology with minimum intervention in order to preserve the natural diversity of the grapes, vineyards, and vintages. Having at our disposal an infinite variety of nuances with which to create our assemblages enables the precision necessary for maintaining our House style. We do not force Nature; we guide Her.<br />
<br />
People too often and too easily associate big with industrial, and small with craftsmanship. I don't oppose myself size and quality. Craftmanship at Moet &amp; Chandon is a mindset. It is about the details, precision, flexibility, adaptation... far from reproducing a recipe."</blockquote><br />
<br />
MOET &amp; CHANDON<br />
Grand Vintage 2004<br />
Assemblage: 38% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir, 29% Pinot Meunier<br />
Disgorged: January 2012<br />
Notes: Vintage was a huge quantity with no botrytis. The wine is pale yellow, youthful, and clean. Lemony backbone with persistent beads, minerality, and bright understated fruit.<br />
<br />
Grand Vintage 1993<br />
Assemblage: 30% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier<br />
Disgorged: November 2011<br />
62nd Vintage <br />
Notes: Slightly darker yellow to golden. Some yeasty characteristics. Persistent bead. A bit toastier, but still lively. Fruit characteristics on the citrus side show through.<br />
<br />
Grand Vintage 1983<br />
Assemblage: Chardonnay 40%, Pinot Noir 60%<br />
Disgorged: May 2001<br />
56th Vintage (Commemorating Moet &amp; Chandon's 250th Anniversary) Never released, and not available.<br />
Notes: This is a Champagne from a vintage 30 years ago that drinks very youthfully. The color slightly more golden. Benoit said it had been stored in large wooden aged casks. The beads are less persistent, and yeastier, more toward the flavor profile of baked apples or pears. Really delicious!!!!!<br />
<br />
Grand Vintage 1973<br />
Assemblage: Unknown<br />
Disgorged: November 2002<br />
49th Vintage.<br />
Notes: Holy freakin' sh_t!!!!! Now I can die in peace. Less persistent beading, but the yeasty, creamy, aged qualities are still balanced by a countering mellowed acidity. Something very special.]]></content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Locke-Ober's Cafe: Boston's Lost Treasure</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/locke-obers-cafe_b_2672066.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.2672066</id>
    <published>2013-02-12T18:58:02-05:00</published>
    <updated>2013-04-14T05:12:01-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[The Locke-Ober Café, one of the grand restaurants of not only Boston, but in the United States, closed its doors for business this past October, after being in business for 137 years. This was once Boston's power restaurant.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Brad Haskel</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/"><![CDATA[The Locke-Ober Caf&eacute;, one of the grand restaurants of not only Boston, but in the United States, closed its doors for business this past October, after being in business for 137 years. Needless to say, a lot of history has passed through their doors. So, for the restaurant that was the third oldest in Boston, and by far considered the longest standing fine dining restaurant in Boston to shut its doors, and never use the name Locke-Ober in that location again, the city of Boston has lost a treasure.  I am saddened as I worked there in the late 1980s, and felt that Locke-Ober's Caf&eacute; had many of the old school features that could attract a whole new generation of customers; a beautiful bar, with a separate entrance, a majestic first floor dining room with an oyster bar and one-of-a-kind brandished silver, a good-sized second floor dining room, smaller party rooms on the third floor, and a beautiful club or banquet room, that could seat another 100 plus people. Never mind the tradition and history that should be a natural draw.<br />
<br />
<strong>Factors Working Against Success</strong><br />
<br />
   Why couldn't Locke-Ober's make it?  Even in the 1980s when I was there, my feeling was there was more of a sentiment to reaching back to tradition, rather than looking into tweaking the restaurant in a little more modern food approach, as well as giving it a little life with a marketing and PR effort aimed at fun for a younger clientele. A meal at Locke-Obers was a special treat, not necessarily for the outstanding food, but for the surroundings, the elegant service, the history of the building, the traditions that were carried on only in this one rather special historical treasure in Boston. When a regular customer died, their chair was respectfully leaned against the bar, so that no one could sit in their place. There was Frederick Childe Hassam's iconic nude painting of ' Yvonne' (Circa 1886) that was positioned over the door in the main dining room. This is the restaurant of JFK, Enrico Caruso, Ogden Nash, the bluebloods of Boston, Heads of State, tycoons, and local politicians. This was once Boston's power restaurant. The bar, and the club "Yvonne's," were not utilized to their potential. There was nothing stopping Locke-Ober's from modernizing and upgrading their food, other than Locke-Ober's themselves.<br />
<br />
   Restaurant competition in Boston has changed dramatically. Boston, once known as one of the worst restaurant cities in America, as recently as the 1970s, has become one of the best.  Locke-Ober's really had to compete. There have been arguments made that Locke-Ober's, who only admitted women in 1971, was always way behind the times. I would counter with the argument that Harvard University only started to admit undergraduate women in 1973. In that respect, Locke-Ober's made their adaptation, and opened their doors to women. They survived that change, and countless others during their long history, which included Prohibition, two World Wars, Vietnam and much cultural upheaval. What is it that made this the time that Locke-Ober's should close? Daytime drinking patterns had changed, and business meetings that were filled with wine and cocktails were replaced with water. Their clientele had gotten old, and was not being replaced. Casual dining patterns have taken over the restaurant landscape, both in Boston and the rest of the country. Very formal restaurants in 2012 require jackets for men. That was Locke-Ober's policy, and I would think it is in step with formal restaurants everywhere else. The downtown area, where the Winter Place address is located, had degenerated. Still, had the restaurant made some concessions to upgrading food, and aimed their marketing (something they never used to have to believe in, as everything with Locke-Ober in their heyday, was by word of mouth), I believe their doors would still be open.<br />
<br />
<strong>The Last Attempt</strong><br />
<br />
   The last decade of Locke-Ober's existence was spearheaded by the presence of legendary Boston chef Lydia Shire. The irony of a female chef in a restaurant that would not have even allowed her to dine in her early years was not lost on the ownership, nor on chef Shire herself. Yet, despite her presence, Locke-Ober's never fully worked its way back into the prominence it might have been able to gain, had there been more of an eye toward necessary changes that would have given Locke-Ober's an opportunity to continue on. I often wonder if Locke-Ober's would have thrived under the leadership of a visionary like Danny Meyer, or Drew Nieporent.  Some person who could have taken the best elements of a historically classic restaurant, and put the modern touches on the menu and marketing, to make the legend of Locke-Ober's continue on.<br />
<br />
<strong>The End</strong><br />
<br />
  We will never know. David Ray, now the last owner of Locke-Ober's made a statement to the <em><a href="http://www.bostonglobe.com/business/2012/12/08/locke-ober-auction-marks-end-era-for-venerable-restaurant/mbkdbMabEKakbwrx41GeiL/story.html" target="_hplink">Boston Globe</a></em> saying,<br />
    "I fought for the dignity of the place...it was better to close it."<br />
<br />
    I view Mr. Ray's position as that of a steward of a legacy. A restaurant with 137 years of history bears a certain responsibility to the business owner. Locke-Ober's was David Ray's restaurant, but it was Boston's restaurant too. He is a business owner, and of course he has every right to sell his business. I just wish he had allowed someone else to come in and give Locke-Ober's a chance for a future.<br />
<br />
   Mr. Ray sold the building without allowing the name of the restaurant at Winter Place to ever be called Locke-Ober's again. He sold it to Mr. Jay Hajj, a local businessman, for $3.3 million dollars. Much of Locke-Ober's belongings were auctioned off. Mr. Ray did not auction off the iconic Frederick Childe Hassam painting of "Yvonne," which prominently sat over the doorway of the main dining room. Now he, and he alone, can view this iconic art piece that came from his restaurant, and Boston's most elegant restaurant too. <br />
<br />
R.I.P. Locke-Ober's Caf&eacute; (1875-2012)]]></content>
    <link href="http://huffingtonpost.com" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Debra and Dino Santonastaso: Passionate New U.S. Importers for Quality Regional Wines of Italy</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/debra-dino-santonasto_b_2574501.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.2574501</id>
    <published>2013-01-31T18:15:00-05:00</published>
    <updated>2013-04-02T05:12:01-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Clearly, there is huge demand in the the U.S. market for Italian wine, but at the same time, there is great competition. Debra and Dino Santonastaso, two enthusiastic Italians, have recently begun selecting and exporting wines to the U.S.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Brad Haskel</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/"><![CDATA[Italian wines have enjoyed what seems to be a never ending growth in the U.S. marketplace. <a href="http://www.decanter.com/news/wine-news/529822/italian-wine-now-22-of-global-market" target="_hplink">According to</a> a March 2012 article on Decanter.com by Richard Woodard, "Italy has nearly a quarter of the global wine market." The same article cited the United States as the most significant export market for quality wine. Clearly, there is huge demand in the the U.S. market for Italian wine, but at the same time, there is great competition. Debra and Dino Santonastaso, two enthusiastic Australian-Italians, have recently begun selecting and exporting wines to the U.S. Debra was candid in explaining their reasoning and philosophies in starting D&amp;D Italian Wines.<br />
<br />
<strong>What Got You Started in Importing Wines to the U.S.?</strong><br />
<br />
"We had been looking to start a business in Italy for quite some time, and Dino and I have always been passionate about Italian food and wine. It was October 2011 and we were enjoying a glass of our local Morellino wine with two close friends who have been in the wine business for about 15 years. I asked them how well known our Morellino is in the States, and their reply was, 'Americans still have a lot to learn about Italian wines, and need to be educated on new wines.'<br />
<br />
As Debra and I sipped our wine and I listened to our friend talk about the U.S. wine market, we realized how much potential the U.S. has for 'Made in Italy' consumer products, particularly Italian wine... so D&amp;D was born."<br />
<br />
<strong>Regions &amp; Sub-regions of Interest</strong><br />
   <br />
"We are passionate about the Tuscan Maremma, where we live, thankfully still quite unspoiled with its beautiful coast line, pine forests, and rolling hills. When you mention Tuscan red wine to Americans, Chianti immediately comes to mind. Not many people know our local Golden Boar Morellino di Scansano and our Gianni Valentini; both Sangiovese varietals, and serious quality red wines.<br />
<br />
    Visiting the different regions and sub-regions of Italy is like traveling to a different country. They all boast their own unique beauties and traditions. The countryside and quaint old towns, people and their customs, the food and the wine, all vary."<br />
<br />
<strong>Where will D&amp;D Fit In the U.S. Importing Business?</strong><br />
<br />
"There are many wine importers in the states; it is a very competitive market, which also means it's a lucrative one. This is why we have chosen to promote Italian wines exclusively. We are not interested in adding wines from other countries. We intend to continue to expand our Italian portfolio, and become present in all American states and beyond.  Our first three containers (containers hold 1,200 cases) landed in New Jersey mid-May 2012, and we have been active for just eight months. The wines are currently selling in NY, NJ, MA, DE, MD, DC, and FL; which we feel is a pretty good start. With every shipment, our portfolio expands, and the next will arrive in New Jersey and Florida in mid-March. <br />
<br />
   We have Italian and Australian citizenship, so our obvious next market to tap into would be the Asia-Pacific, but that is only after we bring the U.S. market home. Being so passionate about the Italian table, Dino and I would eventually like to look at other authentic 'Made in Italy and Maremma' consumer products such as virgin olive oil, Balsamic vinegar from Modena, local pasta sauces and spreads; not to mention... the famous truffles!"<br />
<br />
<strong>Strategies for the U.S. Market</strong><br />
<br />
"The strategies we use to compete in the U.S. market are very simple... quality, integrity, and authenticity.  We have selected wines with exceptional quality/price relationships while ensuring on-going effective personalized customer follow-up. We believe it is vital to listen to our market place, and constantly work towards satisfying their needs. We work closely with our wineries and their enologists so we can assure our customers continuity, quantity, and quality."<br />
<br />
<strong>Styles of Wine</strong><br />
<br />
"We consider our styles of wine to be a combination of both tradition and modern. All of our wines are produced using state-of-the-art technology, while preserving tradition and integrity. Originally, Italian wines were consumed only with meals, and so favored delicacy and smoothness to match the dish. Today, international trends have changed, also in Italy; wine is enjoyed outside of meals as well, which call for more accentuated complex flavors, full-bodied, fruity, and softer wines with good color. Today the Italian style is to combine both elements by researching the grape clones and the yield per hectare, and by blending native and international vine varieties."<br />
<br />
<strong>For Example</strong><br />
<br />
"We have captured both styles in the characteristics of the Old World wines, such as our Rubentino Chianti and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Cellar One Barolo and Barbaresco, Terre di Monteforte Soave, not to mention our well known Cadia Pinot Grigio(Veneto).<br />
<br />
People think of Lambrusco as being traditionally an overly sweet wine, but this is not the case. Still today, the local people of Modena, where the original and best Lambrusco is produced, drink the traditional dry with their meals. Our Allegro Lambrusco di Sorbara wines are pleasantly surprising the US market. Our modern style Light Sparks has shown remarkable popularity. The wine is a lower pressure demi-sparkling wine vibrant ruby-red in color with a full-bodied, well balanced sweet flavor with hints of wild berries."<br />
<br />
   Debra has great respect for the enologists and agronomists who are the heartbeat of the industry. She speaks of enologists and agronomists in general, and specifically about  the ones she is working with.<br />
  <br />
She states, "Day in and day out, they diligently control each stage of production, from the vine to the bottle, working around the clock during harvest time, they constantly strive to better the quality of their product."<br />
<br />
<em><a href="http://www.dditalianwines.com/" target="_hplink">http://www.dditalianwines.com/</a></em>]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/881502/thumbs/s-ALCOHOL-SLEEP-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Beppe d'Andrea: Tradition &amp; Change in Tuscany</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/beppe-dandrea-tuscan-wine_b_2301857.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.2301857</id>
    <published>2012-12-14T18:13:41-05:00</published>
    <updated>2013-02-13T05:12:01-05:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Beppe D'Andrea is a dynamic and enthusiastic spokesperson for his native Tuscany. A long time winemaker, he is the leader of the Slow Food Movement in the Chianti Classico region.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Brad Haskel</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/"><![CDATA[Beppe D'Andrea is a dynamic and enthusiastic spokesperson for his native Tuscany. He is the leader of the Slow Food Movement in the Chianti Classico region.  He is a long time winemaker, who has transferred his skills to the promotion of the region, and he is also the Senior Brand Ambassador for the Ruffino winery. On his way through North America, he stopped in New York, and we had a chance to speak.<br />
<br />
<strong>In your long career in Tuscany, what are the most significant changes you have seen? What are their causes, and how has it affected the region and its wines?</strong><br />
<br />
I started working in the wine industry in 1981.  Chianti was the most famous Italian wine in the world.  In Italy, we had four of the first DOCG wine regions; Brunello di Montalcino and Barolo in 1980, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Barbaresco in 1981. Many families were still making wine, which years later became wineries. Quantity was still more important than quality.<br />
<br />
The business was changing because many wineries from the New World were making wines. We had to improve the quality of our wines. <br />
<br />
Some Tuscan producers, including Ruffino, started pulling and then replanting vineyards with different vine density, from 1500v/a to 3,000 v/a, and dedicating certain vineyards to the planting of specific clones of Sangiovese. Of course, we had to reduce the production of grapes at not more than 22 pounds per vine doing the 'Green Harvest.' This was not an easy operation because we were still working in the vineyards with an older generation of workers -- people who were educated for quantity. Wine was for them, an important source of nutrients; the average consumption per person in a year was around 40 gallons. Once these changes were in place, it made quality improvement all the more easy. The immediate effect in the region was that some families understood that significant investment in their vineyards was necessary to improve the quality of wines produced.<br />
<br />
Further, the Gallo Nero Association started the 'Chianti Classico 2000 Clonal Research.' This research was done in the 1990s, in 16 experimental vineyards, over almost 60 acres. The first was aimed to verify the behavior of agronomic and enological value of some clones of certain red grapes (Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Colorino and Malvasia Nera) already in use of the area, including those which comprise the blend of Chianti Classico. The study investigated the characteristics of a series of rootstocks, some of them the most currently used because best suited to the Chianti climate and soil as well as the most suitable planting density in relation to the environment and the desired level of production. Additionally, the experiment studied the training system, in order to ascertain their impact on the quality of grapes grown and wines produced, taking in to account the need to reduce the cost of manual pruning. At the end, 24 clones of Sangiovese, 8 Canaiolo, and two Colorino were selected as optimal.<br />
<br />
<strong> Chianti and its Sub-Regions</strong><br />
Chianti is an area that has for centuries been identified as a wine region. Actually, we have two different wine regions in Chianti. <br />
<br />
Chianti Classico, south of Florence and north of Siena; about 175,000 acres of land, 17,500 acres of vineyards, 600 wine producers and 3.5 million 9Litre cases per year. It has been DOCG classified since 1984 as a sub-region of Chianti and since 1996 as Chianti Classico DOCG. The DOCG requires 80 percent to 100 percent Sangiovese blended with red wines, a minimum vineyard age of four years, minimum of 1800 vines/acre, 2.4 tons per acre and a maximum 4.4 pounds per vine resulting in wines with a minimum 12 percent alcohol, aged for a minimum of one year, and two years for the Riserva designation.<br />
<br />
Chianti is much bigger, including seven sub-regions- Rufina, Colli Fiorentini, Colli Aretini, Colli Pisani, Colline Senesi, Montalbano, and Montespertoli- with 32, 125 acres of vineyards, 2, 500 producers and 9.0 million 9 litre cases per year. It has been classified since DOCG classified since 1984, requiring 70 percent to 100 percent Sangiovese blended with red wines, a minimum vineyard age of three years, minimum of 1,600 vines per acre, maximum 6.6 pounds per vine, resulting in a wine with a minimum 11 percent alcohol, aged for a minimum of five months, and a minimum of two years for Chianti Riserva. Chianti Superiore requires 2.4 tons per acre and 4.4 pounds per vine, resulting in a wine with a minimum of 12 percent alcohol, aged for a minimum of ten months.<br />
Ruffino has estates in both wine regions; Poggio Casciano and La Solatia in the Chianti region, Montemasso, Santedame, and Gretole in the Chianti Classico region.<br />
<strong><br />
Explain Chianti in contrast to other areas of Tuscany. Talk about stylistic differences, philosophical differences. Talk about the difference in clones of Sangiovese, and why they are used in different areas.</strong><br />
<br />
The Sangiovese is a characteristic Italian grape varietal, illustrating that we cannot produce the same wine everywhere. The experience of Chianti Classico 2000 with Rauscedo vine nursery, has been very important for all wineries, not only the development of Sangiovese clones, but also rootstock clones. This combination makes the difference.  After years of study, our team of Agronomists -- led by Maurizio Bogoni, Director of Ruffino Estates and Valeria Fasoli, Ruffino's vineyards manager -- are still studying the characteristics of soils, while already improving our vineyards. In our Greppone Mazzi estate in Montalcino, we have just replanted a vineyard that was more than 80 years old. There they have classified some vines as 'mother vines,' and from there they picked material, branch and bud, and grafting on the specific rootstock they 'created' the 'sons,' which, when planted in place of the 'mother vines' provides the same quality of grape. This is a sort of mass selection and the clone is now classified as VCR5. This, with other clones like Tin 10, Janus 50 and BF 10, permits us to create a Brunello that is 100 percent Sangiovese.  However, this is not the same for our Gretole estate, where we make Riserva Ducale Oro. There we have less nutrients for the vines, with rocks, stones and clay, so we need mainly another clone of Sangiovese -F9 and R24 - grafted on 110R. In Montepulciano, southeast of Tuscany, we have only clay, and thus different nutrient, different drainage, requiring a different clone of Sangiovese: mainly VCR 23 and 779 pulsen. We love this very much because all Sangiovese-based wines made in Tuscany are great wines, even as they differ greatly from one another. Brunello di Montalcino is a great wine, austere, rich, for very long aging. Chianti Classico is a great wine for medium long aging and a fruity full body. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is also a great wine but more elegant, fine tannins. Chianti is the perfect great wine for any meal, easy to drink, with a fruity, medium body. Many Sangiovese for many types of soils and many different wines; this is great.<br />
<br />
<strong>Please speak of the traditional producers in Chianti versus the modernists. Name some of the best, in your opinion, of each style.</strong><br />
My opinion is that in the most famous wine region in Tuscany we mainly have traditional producers which have improved very much in the last 10 to 15 years through investment in their vineyards. The rules of production are very strict, meaning that it is not very easy to be very innovative. In my opinion, the modernists are in the newer wine regions, where the rules are more flexible and winemakers can do almost anything. For example, someone tried to change something in Montalcino, but 70 percent of the 220 producers were still convinced that the very difference setting this region apart, is to make traditional wines. I still remember great wines made in the 1980's, and even if the style is a bit different, and we are 20 years on, some wineries are still making great wines; Montevertine, Castell'in Villa, Fontodi, Felsina, San Giusto a Rentennano, Selvapiana.<br />
<br />
Although Vernaccia from San Gimignano was one of the first Italian whites to get serious acclaim, today it seems to take a back seat to other regions. What steps do you think producers from this region need to take to improve their quality, and their visibility?<br />
"Vernaccia di San Gimignano is a great white wine; I love it very much. Maybe years ago, it was easier to sell this wine because its reputation and Tuscan pedigree meant more in a global market that was less 'crowded' with wines from other world regions. The wine is still great but the competition now is much harder. Wines made in Friuli and in Trentino/Alto Adige...the Chardonnay made everywhere in the world competes with Vernaccia di San Gimignano. I do not know the solution, but certainly they have to improve the quality across the board, becoming all great wineries and ultimately working together to give this great wine visibility and the right space it deserves for its history of tradition and innovation."<br />
<br />
<strong>What is the Gallo Nero? Why should a modern consumer regard the Gallo Nero as a symbol of superior quality? Are there better quality measures like DOC and DOCG? Or... after the Super Tuscan revolution, do you just have to know the producer?<br />
</strong><br />
The Chianti wine was already a very famous wine, thanks in part to Ruffino, sold around the world, when in 1932, 33 wine producers asked the Italian government to approve the appellation Chianti Classico, which was granted surprisingly late. The wine producers of Chianti Classico were looking for an emblem which could help consumers around the world to identify a bottle of Chianti Classico from Chianti. Based on the story/legend dating back to 1206, they chose the Gallo Nero, Black Rooster. Chianti Classico is different wine than Chianti. As you know both are DOCG and both are good, but the rules of Chianti Classico are more strict than Chianti. The Chianti Classico wines are a bit richer.<br />
<br />
The Supertuscan designation in the 1980's greatly helped to improve the Chianti Classico and Riserva wines because at the time those wines were still made by the addition of some white grape varietals. When producers lobbied to change the rules preventing white grapes and replacing them with other, new grape varietals, the wines improved and the perception followed.  As you know, Supertuscan is not a designation, you do not see this mention on the label. The designation is 'IGT Toscana', Typical Geographic Indication, Toscana. The rule is very flexible. We can source the grape in Tuscany, the winery decides the blend, the aging, and when the wine is ready to release. For consumers, because al inexpensive and very expensive IGT Toscana wines are often grouped together in stores, the appellation does not help indicate quality advantage of one over another; in this case, the brand is the warranty.<br />
<br />
<strong>What does the 60th anniversary of Ruffino "Gold Label" mean to you personally?</strong><br />
<br />
Our roots, my roots. This wine is part of our history.<br />
<br />
The first Riserva Ducale Oro was produced in 1947, two years after World War II, when may people's very survival was threatened, houses destroyed, and people suffered very low morale. Mother (Momma) Nature, gave a great sign of rebirth, change, producing great quality of grapes. Ruffino's winemaker heeded this signal, making higher quality Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro, Gold Label. This wine, made in only the best vintages, 35 times in 60 years, represents the height of quality; not only the quality of wine, but also the quality of life, the environment. Nowadays, we can taste a bottle of RDO, made 20  or more years ago, and we still can immensely enjoy drinking it. These vintages are wines made with respect for quality, and serve as reminders that we must do the same for future generations.]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/829452/thumbs/s-GLASS-OF-WINE-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Taking the Mask Off of Wine: How Wine Follows the Lead of Cuisine</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/taking-the-mask-off-of-wi_b_2094919.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.2094919</id>
    <published>2012-11-09T10:25:27-05:00</published>
    <updated>2013-01-09T05:12:01-05:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Ask any winemaker what they need to make good wine and they will tell you there are three answers; good grapes, good grapes, and good grapes. When you have a unique wine, from a unique place it would seem intuitive to show off the great grapes; with very little camouflage.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Brad Haskel</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/"><![CDATA[Wine and food have been intertwined throughout history. In more recent times, trends have taken some curious turns. The culinary path of fine restaurants, with a movement started in France in the 1970's, had a reaction to covering inferior proteins, with heavy sauces. Their reaction spawned Nouvelle Cuisine. Nouvelle Cuisine showcased the primary feature of the dish, with accompaniments of sauces, vinaigrettes, salsas, chow-chows.  Showing off unique and superior local ingredients was a primary anthem to the movement. Let the star ingredient shine.<br />
<br />
Today, the wine trade is facing a similar reaction. High alcohol levels, overuse of highly toasted wood barrels, commercial planting of grapes that are not conducive to where they are planted, industrial yeast, sanitizing flavors with winemaking techniques, and worst of all, making a product that chases the styles of the influential reviewers (at the top of the list are Robert Parker and The Wine Spectator). They both score wines by the scholastic 100 point grading system. <br />
<br />
Both publications have helped to popularize higher alcohol, bigger being better types of wines, that move further and further from wines that comfortably pair with food. One might initially be charmed by the power of their flavors, but they have become homogenized, where they are referred to as "International wines," a kind of code for: I don't have a clue where this wine is from. You might ask how deeply these two publications have changed the wine trade. Deeply, is clearly the answer.<br />
<br />
Here are some ways it seeps through the mentality at all levels of the trade. A winery is looking to get noticed. They know of a consultant that has been successful with another winery, sometimes from a different part of the world. That consultant is hired to create a wine that will gain attention. That consultant isn't necessarily hired to make a great wine that fits the regional style, but rather that consultant was hired because of an international reputation created and perpetuated by the same critic they are hoping to have to have review the wine again. The winemaker, or the flying winemakers, become more important than those who have understood and worked in a particular place for their whole career. Subtlety, balance, and harmonious flavors that demonstrate a specific region's uniqueness, play a secondary role to a consulting winemaker's style. The winemaker becomes more important than the vineyards. <br />
<br />
Ask any winemaker what they need to make good wine and they will tell you there are three answers; good grapes, good grapes, and good grapes. When you have a unique wine, from a unique place it would seem intuitive to show off the great grapes; with very little camouflage. <br />
<br />
There are movements within for reform. Organically grown grapes has become as important as the movement toward organically grown food. Wine's movement lagged far behind the movement with other food products, as there have been many influential spokespeople within the wine trade that have insisted that organically grown grapes are not inherently better than non-organically grown grapes. That thought process has changed. Biodynamic wines, wines following the philosophical principles of <a href="https://www.biodynamics.com/steiner.html" target="_hplink">Rudolf Steiner</a>, are even more stringent than organic grape growing. The problem is that neither addresses winemaking techniques that could obscure the perfectly well treated grapes. Over oaked wines, wines with out of balance alcohol, mechanical harvesting, misuse of sulfur, are all contributing factors to re-addressing the wine production phase.<br />
<br />
There has been a more complete combining of grape growing and winemaking in the "the Natural Wine" movement, whose sensibilities are certainly in the right direction, although there is no legal definition of a natural wine. The public will still have great difficulties picking up a "natural wine" from a wine retail store, unless the retailer is very dedicated to the cause. Still, many retailers have dedicated organic sections, or wines denoted as being organic or biodynamic. <br />
<br />
I remember visiting Lolonis Vineyards in Mendocino County many years ago. I asked the owner, Maureen Lolonis, about the treatment of the grapes. At the time, she had no particular feelings about organic or biodynamic grape growing making better (healthier) wine. They would not put "organic" or "organically grown grapes" on their label for fearing they would be categorized as an inferior wine.  I asked her if they used sprays and pesticides.  She answered me that they did not. She explained to me that their children played in the vineyards. That was all I needed to know.]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/820515/thumbs/s-WINE-COUNTRY-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>A Few Things That Let You Know You Are In A Good Restaurant: From Some People Who Really Know</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/choosing-a-restaurant_b_1881389.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1881389</id>
    <published>2012-09-13T17:29:17-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-11-13T05:12:01-05:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA["I stay away from restaurants with a view, and I am very wary of hotel concierge recommendations. I avoid restaurants that are named after a number, a color, or a place. I know the Chef or owner lacks imagination."]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Brad Haskel</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/"><![CDATA[Good restaurants have as many universal qualities as unique qualities. Customers often are looking for telltale signs they are in a good place. Prompt service, an attractive room, innovative menus, extensive wine lists and fair pricing are all basics that many people, including restaurant reviewers focus on.<br />
<br />
I asked four top restaurateurs and industry professionals to tell me a few things they look for as signs that they are in a good restaurant.<br />
<br />
<strong>Andy Pforzheimer</strong><br />
Andy is the owner of the Barcelona Restaurant Group, based in South Norwalk Connecticut, and Top Spin Events. His career included culinary apprenticeship in France, work as an executive chef in top restaurants and as the longtime owner and operator of the ever expanding and highly successful Barcelona Restaurant Group.<br />
<br />
<blockquote><ul><li>The owner or manager at the door, not just the hostess. </li><br />
<li>A busy bar area.</li><br />
<li>Wine list that has exciting wines at the7-10 glass range.</li><br />
<li>Specials that look recent -- today if possible.</li><br />
<li>Right amount of food on a plate -- not microscopic portions, but not huge ones either.</li><br />
<li>A crowd that dresses well, but not as if they don't eat out often.</li></ul></blockquote><br />
<br />
<strong>Leslie Barnes</strong><br />
Les is the owner/operator of London Lennies, a legendary 185-seat restaurant in Rego Park, Queens, that has been serving hand selected seafood for over fifty years. He has spent his career as a premier fish buyer and restaurateur, who is only interested in offering great product to his guests at fair pricing.<br />
<br />
<blockquote><ul><li>A host or hostess is there to greet me.</li><br />
<li>Everything is neat, orderly and tidy.</li><br />
<li>There is a cohesive  common thread between the d&eacute;cor, menu, the attire of the waitstaff, the wine list the cocktail list, the beer list; that all tie together.</li><br />
<li>How professional are the waitstaff? Are they well groomed, pleasant, polite, and knowledgeable about the products they sell?</li></ul></blockquote><br />
<br />
<strong>Gerry Dawes</strong><br />
Gerry Dawes is a longtime wine professional who is very highly regarded for his expertise on Spanish wine and Spain in general. Howard Goldberg of the <em>NY Times </em>has referred to him as 'Mr. Spain.' Currently he is importing Spanish wines through his company, Spanish Artisan Wine Group, Gerry Dawes Selections. Along with selling wine to literally thousands of restaurants in his career, Gerry has also been a restaurant reviewer.<br />
<br />
<blockquote>There is an intuition among people with experience in restaurant dining about whether their chances for having a great dining experience is going to be good.  All kinds of things have to add up right away: How are you greeted and seated? Does the staff seem to be genuinely interested in you as a diner, or are they merely spouting a practiced establishment line that sounds insincere? Does the ma&icirc;tre d' or wait staff make you feel uncomfortable because of their attitude?<br />
<br />
From the point of view of a former restaurant reviewer, a look at the menu can speak volumes. Are there really delicious-sounding dishes on the menu? Does the menu seem well thought out? Example:<br />
<br />
A short menu should not offer a really attractive mushroom or shrimp dish, then include those same ingredients as a key element in one of the few main course dishes. <br />
<br />
A wine list does not have to be large, but there should be enough well chosen reasonably priced whites, reds, and roses to offer wine lovers who don't want to spend a fortune... an attractive alternative that will enhance their dining experience.<br />
<br />
The quality of the dining experience must match what is being charged or the guest will not return.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<strong>Michael  Ginor</strong><br />
Michael is one of the busiest people in the industry. He is the founder and owner of Hudson Valley Foie Gras, the chef/owner of the highly regarded Lola Restaurant in Great Neck, NY, and a partner with Chef Ken Oringer of Boston's La Verdad. He is a frequent traveler and always has his eye on what makes a restaurant successful.<br />
<br />
<blockquote>I know a place is good, when they are busy. They must be good, or represent a good value.<br />
<br />
When I am looking at menus, I look for seasonality, and an ever-changing combination of imagination and ingredients that reflect the geographic location.</blockquote><br />
<br />
He also knows what restaurants to stay away from. <br />
<br />
<blockquote>I stay away from restaurants with a view, and I am very wary of hotel concierge recommendations. I avoid restaurants that are named after a number, a color, or a place. I know the Chef or owner lacks imagination. <br />
<br />
I will definitely follow the advice from the kitchen or service staff of a hotel. I can do research to find the high end restaurants. I want to know the places the locals love.</blockquote>]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/692612/thumbs/s-RESTAURANT-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Margrit Biever Mondavi: The Woman Who Tied Art, Chefs and Music to Napa Valley</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/margrit-biever-mondavi-th_b_1741084.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1741084</id>
    <published>2012-08-06T15:03:50-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-10-06T05:12:17-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[The Napa Valley might be a very different place if Margrit Biever had never lived there.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Brad Haskel</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/"><![CDATA[The Napa Valley might be a very different place if Margrit Biever had never lived there. Robert Mondavi, her husband, had a vision  for world class wine from the once bucolic Napa Valley. Today, that vision might not seem like a big deal, but at that time, 1966, it was radical enough to cause a strong enough disagreement, that he was banished from his family's winery, Charles Krug, a year earlier. He forged his own path by creating the Robert Mondavi Winery. The Robert Mondavi Winery became an icon that is intrinsically linked to the growth in popularity of fine Napa Valley wines, and Napa Valley California's and the United States' most famous wine region.<br />
   <br />
Amongst the accomplishments that Margrit is responsible for are concepts that have become routine for wineries in the Napa Valley, and worldwide. Guest Chef lectures and series of dinners at the winery; art exhibitions, music concerts on the grounds, are all concepts that Margrit added to integration of arts to wine in general, but specifically to the Robert Mondavi Winery.  <br />
   <br />
In collaboration with Janet Fletcher, Margrit has written a book, <strong>Margrit Mondavi's Sketchbook: Reflections on Wine, Food, Art, Family, Romance, and Life</strong>. Along with her viewpoint on historical events, the book goes back to Margrit's youth in Orselina on Lake Maggiore in Switzerland. She tells of a bohemian lifestyle. Food and wine, mountain climbing and gardening were all central features of family life that had a direct impact on her future. <br />
   <br />
Margrit does not avoid subjects, and she handles difficult topics with the fine skill of a diplomat. Her thought process is very positive, and she is a problem solver. She tells her story of her first marriage, and the end of Robert Mondavi's first marriage, when the two of them had fallen in love. Certainly, this was a scandalous story at the time, but their dedication to each other, longevity, is historically convincing that they really did belong together. <br />
  <br />
Along with the great success of the Robert Mondavi Winery, the Mondavis created international business ventures with the very finest  wineries in the world. Their alliance with Baron Rothschild created Opus One. Their Frescobaldi connection in Tuscany created a collaborative wine named Luce. They made some missteps originally in Chile, and then came up with a collaborative effort with the Chadwick family. There were also less expensive California projects such as Woodbridge and Coastal.  <br />
   <br />
Margrit confided that one of Robert's great regrets was allowing the company to go public in 1993: "He felt he lost control of the business at that point."<br />
   <br />
The eventual sale of the winery was a painful chapter, yet Margrit's incredible ability to keep moving forward, and staying in the moment, allows her to adapt very gracefully to life's circumstances. I don't think she will mind my saying that she is 87 years old, and when I met with her, she was briefly stopping in New York to promote her book, while then traveling on to Athens. She is a great ambassador for the region she has helped lead. Napa Valley might have taken a very different course without her.]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/556458/thumbs/s-MONDAVI-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Marco Caprai &amp; Sagrantino Lead Umbria From Obscurity</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/marco-caprai-sagrantino-l_b_1660621.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1660621</id>
    <published>2012-07-10T08:25:26-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-09-09T05:12:04-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Marco Caprai has helped lead the Montefalco region to an international following for wines that were once thought of as local with little international interest.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Brad Haskel</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/"><![CDATA[Marco Caprai has taken on the work originated by his father, Arnaldo Caprai, in the beautiful Central Italian winemaking region of Umbria, and followed a very conscious path to work with the grapes that are unique to Umbria, and more specifically, the sub-region of Montefalco. Umbria, famous for its stunning art, and beautiful landscape is considered the "Green Heart" of Italy. Internationally, little attention was paid to the wines of  a region that was subjugated to the shadows of Tuscany, but much is changing  due to the efforts of producers such as Paolo Bea and Arnaldo Caprai's work with indigenous grapes.<br />
<br />
Marco Caprai states:<br />
<br />
<blockquote> My family is from Umbria originally. I was born here with a great sense of passion for this land and its tradition. My father started with the textile company in 1955 and in 1971 he decided to rediscover an ancient grape from Montefalco; Sagrantino.  Thanks to his intuition, Arnaldo Caprai achieved his goal of becoming the leading producer of Sagrantino. Today, the estate runs 150 hectares with an average of 750,000 bottles produced and sold around the world.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<strong>The Grapes of Umbria</strong><br />
<br />
<blockquote>  Grechetto, a white grape,  Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Sangratino, and blends of the reds are from this region, and used in the center of Italy, except for Sagrantino, that is native to Montefalco.  This grape fares well in all types of terrains, yielding wines of different characteristics, but always of excellent quality. The best results are obtained from clay-calcerous soils. Because it is susceptible to magnesium deficiencies, or to excess amounts of potassium, it is best grown with compacted cultivation techniques with high to very high density (Spur Cordon or Guyot).<br />
<br />
<br />
Sagrantino is definitely the most famous and appreciated wine from Umbria, and considered one of the best Italian reds. The Sagrantino grape has the highest content of  polyphenols, compared to any grape. For this reason, it's very important the grape matures slowly in the vineyards, and the harvest has to be executed much later.  Alone, the grape produces Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG. Blended with other grapes it produces Rosso di Montefalco DOC.</blockquote><br />
<br />
Marco describes the flavor profile of Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG as;<br />
<br />
 <blockquote>...Very intense ruby with purple reflections. The aroma is very persistent with typical accents of blackberries, plum and earth that are perfectly bound to the vanilla given by the wood. The taste is potent, smooth and velvety. Sagrantino is a wine that should be aged at least 10 to 15 years. It can also be made into a dessert wine after the grapes wither.</blockquote><br />
<br />
Sagrantino is THE grape that is to Montefalco,  what Nebbiolo is to Piedmont, Brunello clone is to Montalcino, and Aglianico is to the southern regions of Vulture in Basilicata and Taurasi in Avellino Campania. Sagrantino is the grape that shapes a wine identity for Montefalco  and Umbria.<br />
<br />
<strong>Montefalco 2015: The New Green Revolution</strong><br />
<br />
The beauty of the Caprai's work, is not only a revival of great and indigenous grapes to the region, but a very strong philosophical effort to respect the land.<br />
<br />
Marco explains,<br />
<br />
<blockquote>We focus our attention on every sustainable viticultural model. In the latest years we have developed a project called 'Montefalco 2015: The New Green Revolution'.  This study started in 2010 in collaboration with the University of Milan, with the aim of creating a sustainable viticultural protocol specific to the Montefalco wine region. The project calls for the adoption of management techniques for the soil and vines, and in some cases, they're utilized also in biodynamic and organic farming.</blockquote><br />
<br />
<strong>Regional Wines of Italy</strong><br />
<br />
Marco Caprai has helped lead the Montefalco region to an international following for wines that were once thought of as local with little international interest. I don't think there will be a huge surge in the plantings of Sagrantino around the world, but in this one special town of Montefalco, Sagrantino is king.]]></content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Short Wine Lists (Short Menus): The Economy Leads Trends</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/shorter-wine-lists_b_1560513.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1560513</id>
    <published>2012-05-31T19:12:26-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-07-31T05:12:17-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Restaurants with less food items can, in most cases, run a more efficient food cost, and stay focused on their specialty. Restaurants with less wines on their list can carry less inventory.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Brad Haskel</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/"><![CDATA[There has been much written lately about the shortening of wine lists in trendy restaurants. Lettie Teague <a href="http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052702304707604577424292236665530.html?KEYWORDS=Lettie+Teague" target="_hplink">wrote a very good piece</a> in <em>The Wall Street Journal</em>, and this has been a trendy restaurant topic. Along the same line of reason, restaurant menus have shortened up too. These trends are probably more about economy than it is about style, yet there is an element of clarity that I feel gives a favorable result to the customer.  Restaurants with less food items can, in most cases, run a more efficient food cost, and stay focused on their specialty.  Restaurants with less wines on their list can carry less inventory. Clearly, during the better pre-2008 economic times, the trends leaned toward excess in menu choices, and excess in large voluminous wine lists. These trends seem to follow a very practical indicator, which like the famous line in <em> All the President's Men</em>,  tells us you need to "Follow the money."  <br />
<br />
<strong>How many wines will you drink with your meal?</strong><br />
<br />
The interesting part of a shortened wine list is the wine director/sommelier needs to write a much more focused list. The list needs to be self edited, eliminating repetitions of style, repetitions of appellations, and favors to sales people. Every selection is meaningful to provide an option to demonstrate to the customer, the selection is the restaurant's selection for  what they are offering, and should also have a reason that makes sense with the food offerings.  How many wines would you be drinking in one sitting; one, maybe two?  Doesn't it seem a little excessive to need to choose from a listing of 600 to 1,000 offerings? While wine buffs may relish in looking through great listings of historic wines, most people would like to find a reasonably priced, great value wine, that fits their taste, and drink it. Do you need to pick through 50 Napa Cabs? Do you need to have 40 red Burgundies and another 60 red Bordeaux? These lists are the thought process of a wine collector, whose inventory in most cases, does not turn over on a timely enough basis to financially justify the purchase.  Personally, I would much prefer a shorter list that shows the personality of the restaurant with selections that show off the styles of the varietals and regions selected. <br />
<br />
<strong>How much do you have to spend?</strong><br />
<br />
Not only have most wine enlightened restaurants shortened their wine lists, but there is more to it. Most proactive restaurants have reacted to their customers'  negative criticism of excessive wine mark-ups.  What can a restaurant say when their customer whips out their iPad to show them the same wine they have on their wine list at a fraction of the cost? Not much. The old argument that traditional mark-ups cover the glassware costs and other wine related to wine service really cannot justify some of the outrageous pricing models of the past. Restaurants are still marking up their wines three and four times, but their competition may not. Sooner or later, customers do notice the difference.]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/491570/thumbs/s-WINE-BY-GLASS-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Ana Fabiano: Passionate Advocate for the Wines of Rioja</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/rioja-wines_b_1466767.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1466767</id>
    <published>2012-05-01T05:59:11-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-07-01T05:12:24-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Near the end of last year, I attended an event where Kevin Zraly, the famed wine director from Windows on the World,...]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Brad Haskel</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/"><![CDATA[Near the end of last year, I attended an event where Kevin Zraly, the famed wine director from Windows on the World, was leading a panel discussion on wines from Spain. When the subject turned to an aging issue on Gran Reservas from Rioja, Kevin searched the audience to find his personal Rioja emissary, and perform a quick fact check. Ana Fabiano, Kevin's wife, verified Kevin's answer, and added the parameters a Rioja winemaker is allowed to age wines in both the barrel and in the bottle. <br />
<br />
Ana  studied in Spain, in the midst of what she describes as, "the unleashing of a country." This unleashing, she went on to describe, has historical context of the 20th century of Franco's rise to power, and the end in 1975 upon his death. "Art, film, wine, fashion, gastronomy, and wine all seemed to be freed." She is currently the United States brand ambassador to the region of Rioja in Spain, and certainly a proper choice as Rioja's U.S. emissary. Her background with Spain is intertwined with the end of the Franco regime and the beginning of post-Franco new democracy.<br />
<br />
<strong>Recent History</strong><br />
<br />
Previous to the death of Franco, and the rise of a new democracy,  there were three wine  regions of note; Cava from Penedes, Jerez from Andalucia, and Rioja; that carried any type of international recognition. Ana points out that all of this changed when wine critic Robert Parker declared the 1982 vintage of Alejandro Fernandez's Tinto Pesquera from Ribera del Duero (approximately $12 retail at the time) to be the equivalent stature to one of Bordeaux's most exclusive and expensive bottlings, Chateau Petrus 1982. (Today that bottle of Petrus can be found at retail for just under $10,000.) A comparison of that stature had seismic repercussions in the wine world, the U.S. and the rest of the Parker reading wine world were taking notice of all of Spain's regions; hoping for the next great discovery.<br />
<br />
Rioja, as a region, enjoys the advantage of an ancient culture, a classic culture, and a modern culture; which has kept it at the forefront of Spain's wine identity. Ana speaks of the ingrained culture of Rioja being built around a sense of community and family. <br />
<br />
"There are 15,000 deeds for vineyards or pieces of vineyards in Rioja, much like Burgundy, and everyone in the region is involved."<br />
<br />
<strong>The Rioja Advantage</strong><br />
<br />
The history attributed to Rioja has a lot to do with its extremely unique in that it is this one parcel in the northwest of the country that is extremely fertile; while most of the country is either extremely arid, or desert-like; or is coastal. Rioja, in its three sub-regions of Rioja Alta, Rioja Baja, Rioja Alavesa; shows the ultimate diversity of expression of Tempranillo; as within the region there are pockets of micro and mezzo-climates that show the land, and ultimately the grapes, to have a dizzying amount of styles from ultra-modern to ultra-traditional; and many combinations. <br />
  <br />
Ana speaks of the pride in quality Riojans carry in accomplishing work in all aspects, not just wine. She notes that Rioja manufactures shoes, firemen's boots, that are exported the US.  She feels the superior craftsmanship is indicative of a pride ingrained in the character of the people. <br />
<br />
<strong>Of all the Wines in the Store Why Do You Choose Rioja?</strong><br />
<br />
Rioja, as a region, has very stringent regulations that make for a very assuring stamp of quality for any wine carrying their DOC. Therefore, as opposed to many other regions in the world, the quality of Rioja remains very high at multiple prices levels and expressions of wine. For restaurants, Rioja is great value, and more important, for Reserva and Gran Reserva wines, they hit the market ready to drink, and with some age on them. For a purchase from the wine retailer, the wines are ready to consume.<br />
<br />
As the brand director and ambassador for the region of Rioja, Ana also spearheads the highly effective Vibrant Rioja marketing campaign that has exponentially raised the awareness of the region, their food, and, of course their wine. <br />
<br />
<strong>Upcoming Book</strong><br />
<br />
Ana will be releasing a book titled, <em>The Wine Region of Rioja</em>; a comprehensive book on the region that will feature research Ana did, that included archives interpreted from Catalan dialect where necessary, that tells the story of Spain's most famous and historical wine region. Included in this book is a regional picture that details, through  interviews with locals, grape growers, and winemakers, the history; ancient, classic, and modern that weave together Rioja. <br />
<br />
Ana stated, "It is an honor to be a voice for the region."<br />
<br />
<em>Her book can be pre-ordered on either Amazon or Barnes &amp; Noble.</em>]]></content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Dr. H.Thanisch: Refining Tradition in Mosel Riesling</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/dr-hthanisch-refining-tra_b_1437874.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1437874</id>
    <published>2012-04-23T18:05:53-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-06-23T05:12:02-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[No wine region outside of Burgundy is more defined by their terroir than the Mosel.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Brad Haskel</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/"><![CDATA[Although we Americans have difficulty pronouncing the words on  German wine labels;  The Mosel wine growing region is considered by many to be the defining region for Riesling.  I think if you ask other winemakers, the  resulting wines are the reason others in the world are inspired to produce Riesling wines.  No wine region outside of Burgundy is more defined by their terroir than the Mosel.<br />
<br />
   I had a recent opportunity to taste incredibly delicious wines with Barbara Rundquist-Muller, the owner, along with her husband Erik,  of Dr. H Thanisch, Erben Muller-Burggraef estate, one of the most pristine  and beautiful properties of the region.  Their property is located in the Middle Mosel, in the charming town of Bernkastel-Kuen. They own 13 hectares (32 acres) of prime steep Riesling sites, with the most prestigious and famous being the Doctor vineyard. They also own property in the sites of Bernkastler  Graben, Bernkastler Lay,  Bernkastler Badstube, Brauneberger  Juffer Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich and Wehlener Sonnenuhr.<br />
<br />
<strong>The Mosel's Terroir</strong><br />
<br />
   I asked Barbara what makes the Mosel region unique?<br />
<br />
   <blockquote>"Viticulture in the Mosel  valley  is dictated by the unique countryside. The character of the growing area is formed by the special geological, topographical, and micro-climatic configuration. Over a period of 15 million years, the Mosel dug into a slate filled mountain range full of minerals that developed 400 million years ago. The slate erodes easily and its components decay and enrich the soil, which are dissolved in the ground water and absorbed by the vines.<br />
<br />
   Due to the sheltered position  of the Mosel valley, it is part of the warmest climactic zones in Germany. The capability of the Mosel River and the soil to store heat and reflect sunlight, minimizes photosynthesis, making winegrowing possible in this, otherwise very cool region."</blockquote><br />
<br />
   The Mosel's prime vineyards usually have blue, grey, and sometimes reddish brown devon slate. <br />
<br />
Barbara describes her own vineyards further:<br />
<br />
 <blockquote> " We grow on legendary sites. Many of our vineyards have a slope gradient of more than 60%. Handwork is necessary all year around from the cultivation of the wines until the harvest. The valuable combination of steep slopes, soil characteristic, and climate presents our vines with the best possible conditions for development. The natural and necessary interplay between terroir and vines creates continuously impressive and unique taste compositions of our wines.<br />
<br />
   When my husband Erik and I took over the estate(in 1986) we made a very careful assessment of where we were, and where we wanted to be. We had received the generous gift of a fabulous traditional estate with a great reputation. We both decided, this was a superb base, but we also felt that a bit of 'fresh wind' was necessary to further improve. ....We decided to go out and look for a true 'young lion', who would accompany us and the estate in the future. We found him in the person of Maximillian Ferger, a young graduate from Geisenheim, full of passion and enthusiasm. Together with him and our long-time winemaker Edgar Schneider, we set the way for the future."</blockquote><br />
<br />
   Barbara states that the winery practices sustainable viticulture, and that means the practices both in the vineyard and in the cellar stay as close to nature as possible.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>Sustainable farming- Doing the Right Thing in the Vineyard</strong><br />
<br />
   <blockquote>  "We use careful pruning of vines to restrict yields (Average yield is less than 5000 litres per hectare). We use no artificial fertilizers. We only bring back into the vineyard what has been taken out of the vineyard. We work the cuttings from prunings, skins after pressing, etc...back into the soil. No use of herbicides. No use of pesticides.  No use of insecticides. We use pheromones instead. No irrigation. Careful canopy management. We pick by hand, selectively over several weeks with each vineyard harvested 3 to 4 times, to ensure the grapes will be harvested at optimum ripeness."</blockquote><br />
<br />
<strong>Doing the Right Thing in the Cellar<br />
</strong><br />
<br />
 <blockquote> "We gently press destalked whole grapes at very low pressure. There is skin contact in the juice for many hours to extract as much vineyard  character as possible. No use of enzymes. We cool and extract the clean juice. We clear the must only by sedimentation.  We do a slow and cold fermentation with natural yeast; either in stainless steel or in traditional wooden barrels. The choice is a winemaker decision. Natural yeast helps focus the character of the terroir of the vineyards. After fermentation many of the wines are left to settle and mature for several months in traditional old wood barrels, which gives more complexity and structure to the wines."</blockquote><br />
<br />
 <strong>The Berncastler Doctor Vineyard &amp; The Estate</strong><br />
<br />
   The Doctor vineyard, the prize vineyard of the estate, has vines that average over 100 years. The flavors from this small parcel of land are distinctive; that amazing interplay that great Mosel  has that walks a tightrope  between  complexities of bright fruit, minerality,  and racy acidity. The other wines, also great in using their terroir to its greatest strengths, show great nuances, and are extremely well crafted as well. Everything starts with great vineyards, and Barbara is very aware of this.<br />
<br />
 <blockquote>  "My husband and I received a great gift (the estate) and our responsibility is to maintain and improve it, so that at some time in the future, we can hand it over to the next generation."</blockquote>]]></content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Oskar Bynke and Fred Merwarth: Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyards' Dynamic Leaders</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/oskar-bynke-fred-merwarth_b_1300886.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1300886</id>
    <published>2012-02-28T14:49:30-05:00</published>
    <updated>2012-04-29T05:12:01-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[The Finger Lakes is now being recognized for fine Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir. Who knew?]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Brad Haskel</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/"><![CDATA[Hermann Wiemer created one of the most important wineries in the United States. In the 1970s while pioneers of fine wine in California were creating an international sensation that exploded with Steven Spurrier's tasting in Paris, Hermann Wiemer was very quietly creating excitement with selected vineyard sites around Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes district of New York state.  With acknowledgement to the wines of Dr. Konstantin Frank, the Finger Lakes district had never really been thought about as a region with the possibility of making world class wine before Hermann Wiemer.  Today, the Finger Lakes region is filled with wineries surrounding Seneca Lake, and the quality seems to get better and better with each passing vintage. The grape varietals, Riesling and Gewurtztraminer that created the first impressions from reviewers and critics, are now highly praised with both national and international recognition. There is more to come. The Finger Lakes is now being recognized for fine Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir.  Who knew?<br />
<br />
Oskar Bynke and Fred Merwarth, the current owners of Hermann J. Wiemer, have carried on, and grew the traditions Hermann had created; I asked Oskar to tell their story.<br />
<br />
<em>How Fred &amp; Oskar Met</em><br />
<blockquote>"We met at school, Cornell University. We actually met the last days of classes. Then we were both hired by the same company, a venture capitalist company, located in Binghamton.<br />
Leading up to the last days in Binghamton, Fred and I talked about how we could get into the wine business. We had well-paying jobs for our age and experience, but we couldn't stand the environment. We were willing to start on a lower level and move from the ground up, doing what we were passionate about.<br />
Fred knew that he wanted to be on the production side. I was not sure, but the import side seemed to be alluring, as I thought that would be the best way to be exposed to as much wine as possible. Once we left Binghamton, we went our different paths. Fred went to work for Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyards because he wanted to become a wine maker, and I went back to Sweden to study Geology and finish my Masters in Agriculture. Afterwards, I worked in New York City for about six years in the wine trade. While Fred was cleaning barrels in the night, I was selling Fortissimo in Staten Island as my first job; a sales territory no one else wanted. Times moved on and we gradually moved up in the world (nothing against Fortissimo sales on Staten Island).<br />
Around 2003-4, Hermann insinuated that he wanted to retire.  Some investors and potential buyers visited the winery, but the only one who could make the wine was Fred, and Hermann gradually realized there was no other person than Fred that could do this. I was there working on weekends and vacations, and on one occasion took six months off to become the winery's cellar rat. During this time I established a relationship with Hermann.<br />
Later, Hermann asked Fred if I wanted to help buy the vineyard. In 2007 we officially took over the winery with the help of friends and banks, so that Hermann could retire comfortably!"</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<em>Unique Qualities of the Finger Lakes Wine Region</em><br />
<br />
<blockquote>"The weather. The variation of weather and the resulting variation in the vintages of the wine. In addition to being one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world, with the waterfalls, gorges, and lakes; it is also one of the most challenging regions to grow grapes. We are a truly a cool climate region, the only cool climate region in America where we have the zest and freshness to grow Riesling. We have a true identity.  There is a niche here. In order to deal with the changing weather, we need to be agriculturally savvy.<br />
The soil. There are finite spots in the Finger Lakes where you can grow vinifera in relation to the lake. On those sites, we sort out where it is better to grow Cabernet Franc and where it is better to grow Riesling. That's what makes our region unique and exciting.  The building blocks of terroir are the interaction between climate, soils, site selections, and cultivars. The Finger Lakes has a great potential showcasing terroir.<br />
Great wine regions have established the vineyard as the number one priority, and the person producing the wine is second. Our region is unique because site selection and matching the variety to the site comes second to growing great grapes."</blockquote><br />
<br />
 <em>Vineyard Sites; What is Planted, Where and Why</em><br />
<br />
<blockquote>"Since Hermann was one of the pioneers in the region, and had a background in the nursery business, the relationship between vine and soil is very important to us. Our soil ranges from shallow and gravelly with shale bedrock to richer, deeper, silt loam. The HJW Vineyard is probably the most interesting. In 1973, Hermann learned on this site by trial and error. HJW turned out to not grow reds all that well; the vineyard was a very cool spot. In purchasing Magdalena and Josef in 1999, Hermann explored richer soils and a slightly warmer site.<br />
In planting each vineyard site, we are meticulous about how and where to plant and trellis. We arrange some rows east to west, some rows north to south, depending on the airflow of the lake, and the erosion. For example, on our northern sites, we plant the reds (Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir) which have richer soils. Some of our whites demand less heat and maturity, so we can use Southern sites, which have less productive soil. As a result, our Riesling and Chardonnay capture a backbone of wet stone, acidity, stone fruit, and flint components."</blockquote><br />
<br />
<em>Partnership Roles &amp; The Winery Team</em><br />
<br />
 <blockquote>"Funny story... originally, Fred was a business major, and I was an agronomy major in Sweden. Today, Fred is on the vineyard, nursery, and winery side; whereas I am on the business side. <br />
Initially, Fred and I did everything, all the time! 24/7! We never left the vineyard or winery. Now, we are a little more structured. It took us almost five years to get an assistant winemaker, whom we just hired. Fred's wife Maressa and interns all helped in wine production and anywhere they were needed. As we are enjoying some attention around the country, and many markets have started to show interest in us, I have been traveling more and more. In the winter months, I go to see the distributors. But, between May and Thanksgiving, I am at the winery most of the time..."<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
<em> Future Plans for the Winery</em><br />
<br />
<blockquote>"Our future plan for the winery is to elevate the quality. Although we are one of the oldest in the Finger Lakes, we are very young compared to the other regions of the world. We are still working on our plantings, viticulture, and vinification methods. <br />
The winery has a history of being very agriculturally driven, in the sense that we have little intervention in the winery. Instead, we focus on the quality of the fruit. We continue to review the potential of our sites with better management. We use an organic spray program with no herbicides and no pesticides, and we will try to grasp the powers that are out of our control-flirting with Steiner (the father of biodynamic farming) a small bit... The goal is not only to make very high quality wines, but also to elevate the wines of the whole region by spearheading the Finger Lakes as the premier Riesling terroir of the country."</blockquote><br />
<br />
<br />
<em> 'Terroir' Differences between the Finger Lakes, Alsace, the Mosel, and the Rhine</em><br />
<br />
<blockquote>"The Finger Lakes have elements of all three of these regions, which goes back to the idea that site selection is critical. For instance, Alsace is known for its Grand Cru system, which focuses on the positioning of the vineyards. We are very similar with regard to the diversity of soils. However, Alsace has a much warmer climate. <br />
The Mosel is almost entirely Riesling focused, similar to our fascination with Riesling. You can pull many quality levels from the same sites from the same grapes. I would also say the climate is closer to ours, yielding a similar more restrained, flinty, and more fruit-driven Riesling.<br />
In terms of the Rhine, when you get a certain distance from the Rhine, you can't grow vineyards. Similarly here -- once you get to a certain distance from the lake, the moderating effects take longer to occur. However, the Rhine region is slightly warmer than ours, and they produce rounder Rieslings with higher alcohol levels. <br />
If you look specifically at climate, those three regions do not deal with the consistency of extreme cold temperature like we do. Therefore, the terroir in the Finger Lakes has more structural acidity than you would typically find in the other three regions (Of course that will always be up for debate).</blockquote>]]></content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Pairing Wines With Daring Food at Lola's of Great Neck</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/lolas-great-neck-wine-pairing_b_1236930.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1236930</id>
    <published>2012-01-30T11:58:40-05:00</published>
    <updated>2012-03-31T05:12:01-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[America's suburbs rarely support extremes of anything. So, when a chef like Michael Ginor opened his personal cuisine restaurant, Lola, in Great Neck in September 2009, I got involved and waited to see how daring he would be. ]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Brad Haskel</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/"><![CDATA[America's suburbs rarely support extremes of anything. Certainly, in the restaurant business, suburban restaurants are generally safely themed and executed. So, when a chef like James Beard award winner Michael Ginor opened his personal cuisine restaurant, Lola, in Great Neck in September 2009, I got involved and waited to see how daring he would be. <br />
<br />
The restaurant is modern with some exposed brick walls and a mix of white table cloth, bare wood tables, and large red colored rounds. Silent classic movies play on the back wall, and the music  is a little louder than my parents would be comfortable with.  Right from the start his ever changing menus were  filled with items such as cockscomb, whole suckling pig, snails, black cod, sweetbreads, and an assortment of game birds. His style leans very much on a  classically studied almost pre-nouvelle French cuisine with very modern touches; mixed with inspirations he has developed in extensive world travels. His vast food knowledge and  ambitious urban styled restaurant features snout to tail cooking  that is really more geared toward trendy lower Manhattan, but  is right smack dab in the middle of suburbia .  Wine lists, beer lists,cocktail lists,  spirits lists, etc... take their lead from the menu, so the daring quality of the menu allows me to follow suit with more esoteric wine choices.<br />
<br />
At the heart of Lola's menu are duck and foie gras preparations. Michael and his wife Laurie, are  co-owner of Hudson Valley  Duck Farm, where 80% of the foie gras in America is produced. So, Lola is a farm to table concept for him to make duck, duck products and foie gras into the center piece of his menu. Torchon of foie gras is a cold preparation of sliced foie that is a signature of the restaurant, and  used in tasting menus,  as well as an option on the appetizers section of the a la carte menu. We offer customers three by-the-glass wine offerings for this dish that give three completely different experiences. Somehow, they all work.<br />
<br />
1)	Chateau  Laribotte 2005 (Sauternes, Bordeaux, France)<br />
This classic foie pairing of a wine that has a combination of sweetness (botrytis), high acidity, and fruit and floral flavors. The sweetness makes for a natural combination with the luxurious texture of the foie, while the acidic quality works as a contrasting element to cut through the richness.<br />
<br />
2)	The Rare Wine Company Historic Series Savannah Verdelho "Special Reserve" NV (Madeira, Portugal)<br />
This is an incredibly complex fortified Verdelho, with some sweetness and bracing acidity. There is a decadence of flavors, such as orange, cream,caramel and subtle chocolate. These flavors add even more richness to the dish, while the bracing acidity performs a much needed balancing act.<br />
<br />
3)	Moulin Touchais 1996 (Coteaux du Layon, Loire Valley, France)<br />
One of the true gems of the Loire Valley, this 100% Chenin Blanc spends at least ten years at the property before it is released. This is not a botrytis wine, but rather a shockingly great complex balance of sweetness, minerality, acidity, and floral qualities.<br />
<br />
   The food is bold. I have needed to think about general wine types that have the flexibility to both and complement and contrast bold flavors. In looking at white wines, the list has a lot of aromatic wines that can play with heat, spice and bold flavors well. Some of the grape varietals that have that quality are;unoaked Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Gewurtztraminer,  Riesling, Semillon, Torrontes, and Viognier. I also have light and crisp wines with the capacity to serve as a flavor contrast from varietals such as; Cortese,  Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, and  Vermentino.  Grape varietals that have combinations of both; Albarino, Greco, Grenache Blanc, and Gruner Vetliner, add a heightened layer of complexity to the dish by complementing and contrasting flavors in the same sip. <br />
<br />
   And then, there are the reds. We have found great success in pairing  lighter meats and fish dishes with low tannin wines with bright fruit. Two popular examples are a dry Brachetto from a Piedmont producer, Corregia named "Anthos", and Sicilian Frappato from producer Valle Dell' Acate "Il Frappato".<br />
<br />
  Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, and Tempranillo, primarily from the Rioja region of Spain,  provide moderately weighted dishes, to have a wine pairing that is also can match earthy characteristics. Then come the big reds that can match up to the bigger red dish meats from the menu; Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab blends, Barolo, Malbec, Red Zin, Chateauneuf du Pape, and Amarone are all wines that fit into that zone.<br />
<br />
    Champagne and sparkling wines play a great role in pairing with diverse flavors, and in particular spicy and salty foods.  For those of you who don't think you can pair Champagne with red meat, you have never tried a great Rose Champagne with duck breast. Awesome.<br />
<br />
   Lola is like a small, but growing number of restaurants, bucking the trends to provide  a terrific dining experience in a place you would never expect it. <br />
<br />
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<entry>
    <title>Pierrette Trichet: Guiding the Tradition &amp; Innovation of Louis XIII &amp; the House of Remy Martin</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/pierrette-trichet-guiding_b_1136363.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2011:/theblog//3.1136363</id>
    <published>2011-12-08T15:38:08-05:00</published>
    <updated>2012-02-07T05:12:01-05:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Pierrette Trichet is not only the only female Cellar Master in Remy Martin's history, but in fact is the only female Cellar Master in the history of the major producers in the region of Cognac.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Brad Haskel</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/brad-haskel/"><![CDATA[     When I met with Pierrette Trichet, the Cellar Master for the House of Remy Martin, I could not help but be impressed by her intelligence and elegance as well as a steely determination. She needed every bit of that steely determination for she  is not only the only female Cellar Master in Remy Martin's history, but in fact is the only female Cellar Master in the history of the major producers in the region of Cognac. <br />
<br />
    Pierette was born in the Gers department, between Toulouse and the Pyrenees. Her father was a wine grower, and her mother was a teacher in the Sainte-Christie-d'Armagnac. She combined an academic background in biochemistry and biology with a love of the land. By the age of 20 she took her first job with the House of Remy Martin, where she worked in the company's research labs doing analysis of cognacs. By 1993, then Cellar Master Georges Clot promoted her to the exclusive "tasting committee" and by 2000, she was made Mr. Clot's top apprentice. Three years later she was rewarded with the top position of Cellar Master where she is responsible for carrying on the Remy Martin style in its centuries old traditions.<br />
<br />
   Caroline Sarrot, from The House of Remy Martin, was kind enough to interpret the following interview:<br />
<br />
   Please describe the uniqueness as well as the similarities of Cognac versus other great Brandies of the world.<br />
<br />
  <blockquote> "The unique character of cognac provide from a strong charter. Within the Cognac area, Fine Champagne Cognac is the only blend of two crus, protected by the "Appellation d'Origine Controlee", the French law of 1938 which officially recognizes the complementary qualities of Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne. Cognac belongs to the luxury products heritage of France, but it was also adopted very rapidly by China (From 1883 on) the USA, Russia, and Europe. This product is associated with very strong values such as success, respect and honour. Cognac is also very versatile, depending on its qualities, and can be enjoyed neat or on ice for an XO, or in a cocktail for our V.S.O.P., etc... <br />
   But I want to take your question further and ask what differentiates the Remy Martin cognacs from the other cognacs of the region. It is their harmony and opulence owing to the quality of the grapes combined with the talent of the winemakers and distillers who work to form cognacs that are harmonious and aromatic."</blockquote><br />
<br />
   What are the grape growing methods and cellaring practices that separate Louis XIII (Remy Martin's most prized Cognac) from other cognacs?<br />
<br />
 <blockquote>  "Coming exclusively from chalky lands, the best parcels of Grande Champagne, Louis is composed exclusively by eaux-de-vie which has been awarded (bonus 10%).<br />
<br />
   It represents the absolute mastery of time, the result of nature, a succession of daring initiatives.  The cellaring methods are different in the selection of the Grande Champagne's Eaux-de-vie. Louis XIII is the result of a unique heritage of rare and exceptional eaux-de-vies transmitted through  centuries."</blockquote><br />
<br />
   What are the primary responsibilities of the Cellar Master for Remy Martin?<br />
<br />
 <blockquote> "My days are dedicated to different major activities. The most obvious one, naturally, is tasting and sampling. Every day I taste eaux-de-vie in order to carry out two essential missions: first of all, the selection of the eaux-de-vie proposed to us by our winemaking and grower-distiller partners. This is what we call the 'agrement' or approval process.<br />
<br />
   Thousands of samples are submitted to us during each distilling season, and we make a painstaking selection based on taste and quality criteria. I also taste very regularly the eaux-de-vie that are ageing in our cellars in order to check their development so that I can know at any moment the exact state of our stocks. And I taste the blends that I make. I select from the great diversity of our eaux-de-vie those that are ready to enter into the composition of the different Remy Martin cognacs and I make the right blends necessary for reproducing the exact taste of each one of them, year after year.<br />
<br />
   There is another aspect of my work that I strive to keep in mind all the time. We call it 'wood management':<br />
<br />
   This is the parallel management of our stock of eaux-de-vie and the barrels in which they are aged. Just imagine; Remy Martin possesses the largest stock of Fine Champagne eaux-de-vie in the world. They are aging in about 200,000 oak barrels. And to optimize this aging, we replace the barrels regularly over the years. It is an important task. The final aspect of my daily work is quite different: recreating the products of the range every year and innovating.<br />
<br />
   I very often think about new types of blends that may have a chance of being produced to enrich our range of cognacs. In the Remy Martin style...<br />
<br />
   Lastly, I travel from time to time to explain my work. And I have a chance to meet you, Brad."<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
   How did you become Cellar Master at Remy Martin?<br />
<br />
  <blockquote> "Aged 20, I was noticed by the House of Remy Martin where I was offered my first job. I was never to leave this employer. Working with the cognacs of this venerable House, my responsibilities continued to evolve over the years: research activities, analysis of cognacs and tasting in the company's laboratory.<br />
<br />
'Like eau-de-vie, you improve and mellow over the years.' <br />
<br />
   1993 was a landmark year for me because it was then that I joined the prestigious and very exclusive 'tasting committee' where I intensified my collaboration with the Cellar Master of those years, Georges Clot.<br />
<br />
   The Centaur brand appreciated my work and my patience, qualities required for the production of quality eau-de-vie. In 2000, Georges Clot appointed me his own assistant. My consecration arrived three years later. I was entrusted with the immense responsibility of perpetuating the Remy Martin style and carrying on its centuries old traditions. I became the first woman Cellar Master of a major cognac producer.<br />
<br />
   'I am only interim,' I warn all those who forget that the great cognacs are developed over several generations of Cellar Masters. <br />
<br />
   'Happiness is a team sport,' as Romain Gary wrote, 'And so is cognac,' I used to add discreetly."</blockquote><br />
<br />
   Who influenced you most in your career?<br />
<br />
   <blockquote>"There is no place for ego in this profession. I am the heiress both of Georges Clot, whom I succeeded, and all those who preceded me in this post. I often compare my role to that of a relay runner who is given the baton by a teammate and then has to pass it on to another teammate in the best conditions. Wanting to create a new style or leave my personal mark on the Remy Martin cognacs would be totally contrary to the mission entrusted to me. The style is not Pierrette Trichet nor Pierre, Paul or Jacques, but Remy Martin! The story of Remy Martin is a success story. My wish, which is what is expected of me, is to 'continue the story'. I am not here to please myself but to give pleasure to all those who enjoy Remy Martin cognac.</blockquote><br />
<br />
   In 2001 you launched Louis XIII Diamant. In 2007 you introduced Louis XIII Black Pearl, and 2010 Louis XIII Rare Cask. Each of these projects had a different objective and focus. Please describe the objectives and focus of the three projects.<br />
<br />
  <blockquote> "My most memorable moment in my work was the creation of the Louis XIII blend, which is the high point of my professional life, the fact of producing a cognac with thousands of batches, some of which are over a hundred years old. I have to show respect for the product. Each creation is a great moment. In 2007, Louis XIII gives birth to Black Pearl, an exclusive series produced from a century old tiercon (a type of oak barrel), installed in a cellar hidden in the Grollet Homestead since 1960. 786 carafes numbered 001 to 786 were produced..." </blockquote><br />
<br />
   When you are going through the blending process, can you describe your role and the roles of the various members of your production team?<br />
<br />
  <blockquote> "You are right; being a cellar master is not a lonely job. Nobody is any good working alone. I work very closely with a team of ten people who assist me in my daily work. This 'tasting committee', as they are called in Remy Martin, has a very clearly defined role; it supports the Cellar Master in the selection activities, and in the construction and monitoring of the blends. My work is surrounding by a network of tremendous interaction; with the members of this team, with our wine growing partners (who start the process) with the teams that work in the cellars and with many other employees. It is a long human chain. This know how and tradition, passed on from generation to generation fascinates me."</blockquote><br />
<br />
   Who is Louis XIII's biggest competitor?<br />
<br />
  <blockquote> "Louis XIII is the world's most prestigious spirit, transcending the category by virtue of its remarkable composition, genius and age. There has never been and will never be one competitor. Louis XIII is the King of Cognac and the Cognac of Kings, thanks to the precious reserves of eaux-de-vie that has been maturing since 1874, the year of its creation."<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
   What do you see for the future of Louis XIII?<br />
  <br />
  <blockquote> "To prepare a heritage as prestigious as the one that has come down to me. In a major distillery of cognac, the heir to a long tradition of quality and excellence, such as Remy Martin, the mission of the Cellar Master is, as I see it, to ensure compliance with all the aspects of the production process that have built up the reputation of the House over the centuries. You have to keep looking back and looking ahead. That is the gist of the double responsibility entrusted to me; to guarantee today the style that has always characterized our cognacs and to give the future generations of Cellar Masters the means to perpetuate this style by adopting a very long-term outlook in my daily work."</blockquote><br />
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