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  <updated>2013-06-19T15:28:24-04:00</updated>
  <author>
    <name>Meathead</name>
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<entry>
    <title>Buying A Smoker: Top 10 List</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/buying-a-smoker-top-10-li_b_3313693.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.3313693</id>
    <published>2013-05-21T13:06:10-04:00</published>
    <updated>2013-05-22T08:46:19-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[The best smokers to buy this summer.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Meathead</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/"><![CDATA[<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-smoked_salmon2.jpg"><img alt="2013-05-21-smoked_salmon2.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-smoked_salmon2-thumb.jpg" width="600" height="231" /></a><br />
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<h2>Related articles</h2><br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/smokers/how_to_buy_a_smoker.html" target="_hplink">How to buy a smoker</a>. A checklist of things to look for before you make your selection.<br><br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/what_fuel_is_right_for_you.html" target="_hplink">What fuel is right for you?</a> The pros and cons of logs, wood pellets, charcoal, gas, and electric.<br><br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/smokers/charcoal_smokers.html" target="_hplink">Charcoal and wood smokers</a>. Tip top flavors, some are super easy to use, and others are a pain.<br><br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/smokers/egg_kamado_and_ceramic_grills_and_smokers.html" target="_hplink">Egg, ceramic, and other kamado-style smokers</a>. Heavily insulated, these are very efficient smokers. Not ideal for steaks.<br><br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/smokers/pellet_smokers.html" target="_hplink">Pellet smokers</a>. Thermostat control, and you're cooking with wood. Amazing tools, b ut not good for searing.<br><br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/smokers/gas_smokers.html" target="_hplink">Gas smokers</a>. No messy charcoal, steady temps, good flavor, and cheap.<br><br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/smokers/electric_smokers.html" target="_hplink">Electric smokers</a>. Set it and forget it simplicity. Alas, flavor is inferior.<br><br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/smokers/stovetop_smokers.html" target="_hplink">Stovetop smokers</a>. Smoke indoors or on camping trips.<br><br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/thermometer_buying_guide.html" target="_hplink">Digital thermometer guide</a>. You just cannot trust the dial thermometers on any grill or smoker.<br><br />
<br><br />
</div></td></tr></table>You can make damned good smoked meats on an all-purpose charcoal grill (<a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/charcoal_grill_setup.html" target="_hplink">click here for tips</a>) or gas grill (<a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/gas_grill_setup.html" target="_hplink">click here for tips</a>), but to make the most amazing ribs, salmon, bacon, pulled pork, turkey, you need a smoker. What to buy? Ohhh, there are sooooo many choices!<br><br><br />
<br />
With a high quality modern barbecue smoker you no longer need to hover over your machine for hours, constantly monitoring the temp, fiddling with the dampers, shoveling coal, adding wood chips, and spritzing your meat with a mist of secret moisturizer. A good smoker means that you can win the battle against creosote, soot, and ash. With a good smoker you can get your food on the table on time and not fear that it is over- or under-cooked.<br><br />
<br />
At <a href="http://AmazingRibs.com" target="_hplink">AmazingRibs.com</a> Max Good and I have created a huge <a href="http://amazingribs.com/bbq_equipment_reviews_ratings/" target="_hplink">Equipment Reviews</a> section with a searchable database of hundreds of reviews and ratings of smokers and grills. Here is our list of our Top Ten Backyard Smokers Under $2,000. There are an unprecedented number of great cookers out there, and some categories, like ceramics and pellet smokers are growing rapidly. In making our selections we tried to cover a wide range of designs and prices and pick the best of breed. Although it was not a criteria for our selection process, interestingly most of the Top 10 are made in the USA.<br />
<br />
<h2>2013 AmazingRibs.com Top 10 Backyard Smokers Under $2,000</h2><br />
<em>Listed in order of manufacturer's suggested retail price. Click the links for detailed reviews as well as links to suppliers.</em><br><br><br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-smokenator20.jpg"><img alt="2013-05-21-smokenator20.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-smokenator20-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="163" align="right" /></a><a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/smokenator_tips.html" target="_hplink">Smokenator $70</a>. This simple piece of bent metal, overpriced at $70, is still an amazing value if you already own a basic <a href="http://amazingribs.com/bbq_equipment_reviews_ratings/grill/weber-one-touch-silver-225-charcoal-grill" target="_hplink">22.5" Weber Kettle</a>, which is a heckuva a grill for only $89. Put the two together and it will perform as well as a standalone smoker for twice the price. Even if you don't have a Kettle, the combo gives you the best of both worlds, grilling and smoking. It corrals the charcoal all on one side better than the Weber branded charcoal basket, holds more charcoal, and the solid metal face makes an extremely efficient indirect heater. We know a competition team in Texas that wins money with theirs. Best of all, the flavor it produces is superb.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2013-05-21-charbroil_vertical_gas_smoker_300pix.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-charbroil_vertical_gas_smoker_300pix.jpg" width="300" height="516" align="right" /><a href="http://amazingribs.com/bbq_equipment_reviews_ratings/smoker/char-broil-vertical-gas-smoker" target="_hplink">Char-Broil Vertical Gas Smoker</a>. Yes, it is cheaply built and unless you take care of it, it will probably start falling apart in five years, but by then you can save up for a really good smoker. It is narrow so you have to cut rib slabs in half, but it can hold a lot of food. Once you get the hang of it, it can hold temps pretty steadily and it doesn't require nursing. But you absolutely <em>must</em> replace the temperature indicator (it is not a thermometer no matter what they call it) with <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/thermometer_buying_guide.html" target="_hplink">a good digital thermometer</a>. Foods cooked on a gasser taste wonderful, although they taste slightly different from charcoal or wood, and a lot better than food cooked on an electric smoker.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2013-05-21-big_poppas_drum_smoker_kit_300pix_0.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-big_poppas_drum_smoker_kit_300pix_0.jpg" width="300" height="413" align="left" /><a href="http://amazingribs.com/bbq_equipment_reviews_ratings/grill-smoker-combination-grill-smoker/big-poppas-drum-smoker-kit" target="_hplink">Big Poppa's Drum Smoker Kit $140</a>. We know you lust after one of those macho looking sideways offset barrel smokers for under $200 at the big box store. <em>Please don't do it.</em> <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/offset_smokers.html" target="_hplink">It is an unbelievable pain to operate, you'll spend hours trying to modify it, and by the end of the summer it will be in the garbage</a>. If you need to look kewl, build an "Ugly Drum Smoker" with this cleverly designed kit. Food grade drums can easily be found for as little as $20, so for well under $200 you can have a fine smoker. This kit significantly reduces the cost, time required, and probability of error. And the results can cook competition worthy meat. Really.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2013-05-21-weber_smokey_mountain_cooker_18.5_inch_300pix.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-weber_smokey_mountain_cooker_18.5_inch_300pix.jpg" width="300" height="505" align="right" /><a href="http://amazingribs.com/bbq_equipment_reviews_ratings/smoker/weber-smokey-mountain-cooker-185" target="_hplink">Weber Smokey Mountain Cooker 18.5" $349</a>. Good old Weber has been making this indestructible charcoal fired "bullet" for years and has made only minor tweaks, although there are minor tweaks yet to be made (for example the thermometer is not accurate). The body is the same enamelized steel as the Weber Kettle and mine is 15 years old and going strong. There is also a larger model, but we prefer this one because it is easier to keep the temp low, and that's crucial to great smoker, although a full slab of ribs barely fits. It can also be used as a grill, but you have to get on your knees to do it. Most parts on this smoker are made in the USA.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-primo_oval_junior_300pix.jpg"><img alt="2013-05-21-primo_oval_junior_300pix.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-primo_oval_junior_300pix-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="285" align="left" /></a><a href="http://amazingribs.com/bbq_equipment_reviews_ratings/grill-smoker-egg-or-kamado-style-combination-grill-smoker-pizza-oven/primo-oval-junior" target="_hplink">Primo Oval Junior $832</a>. Ceramic smokers based on an ancient Japanese "kamado" design are all the rage, with the Big Green Egg the most popular of the breed. Ceramics are very efficient, holding heat and using very little charcoal. They can also be used as grills, but the cone shape of most of them doesn't make them ideal for <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/2-zone_indirect_cooking.html" target="_hplink">two-zone cooking</a>, a technique we consider vital for grilling. There are two exceptions, however, the two Primo models, which are oval shaped and can be easily set up with two zones for great grilling. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/bbq_equipment_reviews_ratings/grill-smoker-egg-or-kamado-style-combination-grill-smoker-pizza-oven/primo-oval-xl" target="_hplink">There is even a larger model, the XL</a>. We like them better than the Egg. Made in the USA.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-backwoods_smoker_chubby_300pix.jpg"><img alt="2013-05-21-backwoods_smoker_chubby_300pix.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-backwoods_smoker_chubby_300pix-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="399" align="right" /></a><a href="http://amazingribs.com/bbq_equipment_reviews_ratings/smoker/backwoods-smoker-chubby" target="_hplink">Backwoods Smoker Chubby $970</a>. This little baby looks like a dorm fridge and it shares a lot in common with it. The walls are well insulated, the door latches tight, there's a clever reverse flow heat and smoke transit system, temp control is incredibly simple, and it can hold standard hotel pans. A water pan between the charcoal and the food keeps the cooking chamber moist. There are larger sizes that are popular among the professional competition teams. I have the next size up, the Party, and it is truly impressive. Made in the USA.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-rec_tec_pellet_smoker_300pix.jpg"><img alt="2013-05-21-rec_tec_pellet_smoker_300pix.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-rec_tec_pellet_smoker_300pix-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="247" align="left" /></a><a href="http://amazingribs.com/bbq_equipment_reviews_ratings/smoker/rec-tec-grills" target="_hplink">REC TEC Grills $995</a>. We are in love with the new generation of pellet smokers. These clever designs burn wood pellets that look like pencils broken into 1/2" sections. The pellets are made from hardwood sawdust scrap from sawmills and furniture manufacturers. A digital thermostat system controls the better models by controlling the flow of pellets and air into the burner. They are truly set-it-forget-it easy and hold the temp rock solid. They cook by hot air and smoke circulating, so most pellet burners are not good at direct heat grilling. Pellet grills need electricity to run the controller so you'll not be hauling them to the beach, and the smoke flavor is delicate and elegant, but not as aggressive and deep as charcoal and wood. We know that a model by Traeger is by far the more popular and widely distributed, but we think this is a lot better chiefly because we like the controller better. And it is a lot better looking, especially with the metal bulls horns for handles.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-mak_silver_1_star_pellet_smoker_300pix.jpg"><img alt="2013-05-21-mak_silver_1_star_pellet_smoker_300pix.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-mak_silver_1_star_pellet_smoker_300pix-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="263" align="right" /></a><a href="http://amazingribs.com/bbq_equipment_reviews_ratings/smoker/mak-grill-1-star-general-pellet-grill" target="_hplink">MAK 1 Star General Pellet Grill $1,299</a>. Another pellet grill like the REC TEC above, but the slightly higher price buys a number of bells and whistles, including our favorite digital controller. Built entirely in the USA, it is solid with a heavy duty powder coat. The hood is a roll top, meaning it does not need a lot of rear clearance like some of its competitors, and there is plenty of room inside. We recommend you buy the optional upper level racks. My only criticism is that it looks like a WWI tank. Made in the USA.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-fast_eddys_by_cookshack_pg500_pellet_smoker_300pix.jpg"><img alt="2013-05-21-fast_eddys_by_cookshack_pg500_pellet_smoker_300pix.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-fast_eddys_by_cookshack_pg500_pellet_smoker_300pix-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="271" align="left" /></a><a href="http://amazingribs.com/bbq_equipment_reviews_ratings/grill-smoker-combination-grill-smoker/fast-eddys-cookshack-pg500" target="_hplink">Fast Eddy's by Cookshack PG500 $1,595</a>. The innovation here is that the cooking surface is divided into two sections, one is much like all the other pellet smokers, strictly indirect convection air cooking, but the other, smaller section exposes the meat to direct radiant heat so you can get a good dark sear when you want to high heat grill. And there is a 30-day money back guarantee! Made in the USA.<br />
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<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-horizon_20_inch_rd_special_300pix.jpg"><img alt="2013-05-21-horizon_20_inch_rd_special_300pix.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-21-horizon_20_inch_rd_special_300pix-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="256" align="right" /></a><a href="http://amazingribs.com/bbq_equipment_reviews_ratings/grill-smoker-combination-grill-smoker/horizon-20-inch-rd-special" target="_hplink">Horizon 20" RD Special $1,825</a>. If you're Jonesing for the pro look, if you want to burn logs and/or charcoal, this is what you have to spend if you also want quality. As I explained above, the cheapo offsets in the hardware stores suck. But the Horizon is built to cook and to last. Made of 1/4" thick steel, when it heats up the mass retains heat and holds temp. You still have to practice to get control over the vents to control heat and it's a good idea to sit nearby to watch it, but that's why lounge chairs and beer were invented. If you get one, make sure it has the convection plate. It helps distribute the heat more evenly. And the capacious cooking chamber can be loaded with charcoal if the entire Little League is coming over and you need to grill up 43 burgers at once. Made in the USA.<br />
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<strong>All text and photos are Copyright (c) 2013 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved. For more of Meathead's writing, photos, recipes, and barbecue tips &amp; technique, please <a href="http://AmazingRibs.com" target="_hplink">visit his website AmazingRibs.com</a> and subscribe to his email newsletter, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/smoke_signals_newsletter/index.html" target="_hplink">Smoke Signals</a>.</strong><br><br><strong>Follow Meathead on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs" target="_hplink">http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs</a></strong>]]></content>
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<entry>
    <title>How to Buy A Grill: Print This and Take It Shopping</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/how-to-buy-a-grill-print_b_3193962.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.3193962</id>
    <published>2013-05-01T12:29:29-04:00</published>
    <updated>2013-05-02T12:42:23-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Amping up our outdoor cooking starts with a good grill.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Meathead</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/"><![CDATA[<em><strong>A grill is "the remote starting-point, the very genesis of our art... gradually intelligence supplanted rude instinct; reason began to deduce effects from supposed causes; and thus cooking was launched upon that highroad along which it has not yet ceased steadily to advance."</strong> Auguste Escoffier, called the "king of chefs and chef of kings," from his landmark 1907 cookbook</em><br />
<br />
<img alt="2013-05-01-financing_available.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-05-01-financing_available.jpg" width="360" height="447" align="right" />The daffodils are in bloom and at the hardware stores, grills and smokers are sprouting in every aisle, guarding the entrance, shiny and sexy, calling your name. This summer let's amp up our outdoor cooking. It starts with a good grill.<br />
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A good grill is an essential tool for the modern cook, not just as a backyard diversion, but a second oven. It is even important in emergencies. Ask people how they cooked after the hurricane. Try using that line on your spouse.<br />
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What a grill does best is create food with a unique flavor, and, because of the high heat, it can come closer to turning out steakhouse steaks better than any indoor oven. Configured properly it can even smoke low and slow as well as a dedicated smoker.<br />
<br />
This article is a guide to helping you decide what features you want when shopping for a grill. But there is no single answer to the question "What is the best grill?" because the question lacks two essential words: "for me." Before you go shopping, ask yourself what you want to cook. Ribs? Steaks? Two very very different cooking processes are needed. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/bbq_equipment_reviews_ratings/" target="_hplink">After digesting this info, then go to this equipment reviews and ratings database and look up some candidates that meet your criteria and see how they rate</a>.<br />
<br />
<h2>Things to look for when you shop</h2><br />
<strong>Size matters.</strong> The first decision is size, which relates to price. Start by looking at the number of square inches of primary cooking surface. That's the main cooking grate. Some manufacturers list total cooking area and that includes the warming rack suspended above the primary cooking area. Yes, you can cook up there, but it is usually a lot cooler up there, so food will not cook very quickly on the upper rack. This can be good, and a removable warming rack is a nice feature. But the important measurement is the square inches of the main cooking grate.<br />
If the cooking surface is square or rectangular, the formula is easy:<br />
<br />
<br />
<em>Area = Width times Depth</em><br />
So if the width is 28" and the depth is 14", then<br />
Area = 28 x 14 = 392 square inches<br />
<br />
If the cooking surface is round the formula is<br />
<br />
<em>Area = pi times the radius squared</em><br />
Pi can be rounded to 3.14. The radius is the diameter divided by two, so measure the diameter across the widest point through the center and divide by two. To square a number, you multiply it by itself. So the area of a 22.5" Weber Kettle is calculated like this:<br />
Area = 3.14 x (22.5 &divide; 2) x (22.5 &divide; 2) = 397.4 square inches<br />
<br />
When deciding how much surface you need, remember that you do not want to crowd a grill, that you should leave at least an 1/2" between things being cooked. A useful guide is to allow 20.25 square inches for a burger (that's a four inch raw burger with 1/2 inch space on all sides).<br />
<br />
<blockquote><strong>Also remember that the single most important technique you need to learn to up your grilling game is <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/2-zone_indirect_cooking.html" target="_hplink">two-zone and indirect cooking</a>.</strong></blockquote><br />
<br />
This is a system where you get one side of the grill hot with the heat source directly beneath the food. The other side of the grill has no direct heat below it, and the heat gets there via convection flow of hot air from the hot side. To do this properly, you should be able to get the food on one half of the surface, so if a chicken cut into parts takes up 12" x 12" or 144 square inches (cutting chicken into parts is the best way to grill it and you must leave space around the meat for it to cook properly), then ideal size is 288 square inches for one chicken. If you will be cooking veggies or other sides, then you need more space.<br />
<br />
<blockquote><strong>Rule of thumb: Allow about 72 square inches total per person, about nine inches by eight inches, about the size of a dinner plate.</strong></blockquote><br />
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<table width="250" align="right"><tr><td class="block" bgcolor="#ffffdd"><div style="border: 1px solid #000000; padding: 10px;"><br />
<h2>See what is available</h2><br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/bbq_equipment_reviews_ratings/" target="_hplink">Click here to go to a massive database with unbiased reviews and ratings of hundreds of grills and smokers.</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<h2>Related articles</h2><br />
As background, I strongly recommend you first read these articles:<br />
<br />
1) <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/thermodynamics_of_cooking.html" target="_hplink">Thermodynamics of cooking</a><br />
2) <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/2-zone_indirect_cooking.html" target="_hplink">2-zone and indirect cooking</a><br />
3) <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/cooking_temperatures_and_reverese_sear.html" target="_hplink">Cooking temperatures and the reverse sear</a><br />
4) <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/what_fuel_is_right_for_you.html" target="_hplink">What fuel is right for you?</a><br />
5) <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/grills/charcoal_grills_vs_gas_grills.html" target="_hplink">Charcoal grills vs. gas grills</a><br />
6) <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/grills/charcoal_grill_reviews_and_ratings.html" target="_hplink">Buyer's guide to charcoal grills</a><br />
7) <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/grills/gas_grill_reviews_and_ratings.html" target="_hplink">Buyer's guide to gas grills</a><br />
8) <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/grills/tailgate_and_portable_grill_reviews_and_ratings.html" target="_hplink">Buyer's guide to tailgate and portable grills</a><br><br />
</div></td></tr></table>Ask yourself how many people will you normally be cooking for, and don't forget the July 4 party. You can do some foods in batches, like burgers and dogs, but to do them right, chickens take longer and doing them in batches could be really slow unless you have adequate cooking surface. Allow space for the veggies, too.<br />
<br />
<strong>Head space.</strong> You will want enough room to smoke a turkey, so make sure there is at least 12 inches of head space between the cooking grate and the inside of the lid. If there is a warming rack, it should be removable.<br />
<br />
<strong>Fuel. </strong>The decision is not just <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/grills/charcoal_grills_vs_gas_grills.html" target="_hplink">Charcoal vs. Gas</a> anymore. There are now six fuel types to chose from. Selecting a fuel is almost as hard as selecting a lightbulb. You need to decide if you want logs, wood pellets, charcoal briquets, lump charcoal, gas or electric. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/what_fuel_is_right_for_you.html" target="_hplink">I have written an article summarizing the fuel options</a>.<br />
<br />
<strong>Temperature control. </strong>The key to successful cooking is temperature control. A good grill must allow you to use a two-zone setup. One zone for high heat cooking, another for slower, lower heat cooking and as a safe zone. If you cannot easily create a two-zone setup, you are severely handicapped. For more on this vital concept, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/2-zone_indirect_cooking.html" target="_hplink">read my article on two-zone and indirect heat cooking</a>.<br />
<br />
Charcoal grills <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/lid_on_or_off.html" target="_hplink">need tight lids</a> and <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/controlling_temperature_with_vents.html" target="_hplink">dampers</a> that can be opened or closed to control oxygen to the fire and thus control the heat. Some grills have the ability to raise and lower the coals. This is a nice feature for when you want the coals just below a steak for a solid dark sear.<br />
<br />
For gas grills, you want a minimum of two burners so one can be on and one off. But the more the better. With three or four burners you can have hot, medium and low zones. You also need a lid that closes fairly tight for smoking. Alas, gassers do not seal tightly due to laws to prevent them from building up explosive gases. You also want even heat across the cooking surface. If the burners are too far apart there will be hot and cold spots.<br />
<br />
<strong>Price. </strong>What is your bottom line? Know what you are willing to spend before going shopping. Just as with a car, the more options, the more expensive. You can get a good charcoal for less than $300. The old reliable, very capable, versatile and <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004RALU/?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amazingribs--20&amp;link_code=as3&amp;camp=211189&amp;creative=373489&amp;creativeASIN=B00004RALU" target="_hplink">indestructible Weber Kettle can be had for under $100</a>. High end charcoal grills can go for $2,000. My current fave is the <a href="http://amazingribs.com/bbq_equipment_reviews_ratings/grill-smoker-combination-grill-smoker/hasty-bake-gourmet-256-dual-finish-charcoal-grill" target="_hplink">Hasty Bake Gourmet for $1,300</a>. You can get a really nice gas grill for $200 to $400, and be the envy of the neighborhood for $800. Prices can go up to $5,000 for some. But keep in mind, quality does not necessarily increase with price. A lot of the $1,000 units I've seen do not out perform some $400 units. On the other hand, quality will last. I had a Weber Genesis gas grill for 15 years until I gave it to a nephew and he has had it for five years before he gave it away and bought a new grill. It's probably still out there churning out fine dining. I know someone in my family who buys a new grill every five years because he keeps buying big shiny stainless steel rigs from discount stores, and they fall apart.<br />
<br />
<strong>High heat. </strong>If you like red meat with a nice dark crust and red to pink inside, even on thin steaks, then you want a grill that can get hot. Charcoal grills can usually do steaks beautifully, especially if you raise the coals to just below the cooking surface. Most gas grills cannot hit that temp <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/grills/gas_grill_reviews_and_ratings.html#infrared" target="_hplink">unless they have the new infrared or sear burners</a>. Infrared burners use a gas flame to superheat a ceramic, glass, or metal plate that radiates more heat than normal burners, in the 700&deg;F plus range. If you cook a lot of steaks, this is a feature you should consider.<br />
<br />
The distance of the heat source from the food is important. Heat dissipates rapidly as the food moves away from the fire. The closer the better for searing, but if gas burners are close to the surface but far apart from each other, you will have hot spots.<br />
<br />
<strong>Smoking.</strong> Can the grill do smoking? If it can, you don't need a separate dedicated standalone smoker. To smoke properly, you must be able to control airflow. For example, the Weber Kettle charcoal grill does a fine job of smoking because it has excellent airflow control and a tight lid. Add <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/barbecue_accessories.html#smokenator" target="_hplink">the inexpensive Smokenator</a> and you can compete on the BBQ circuit. Gas grills usually don't have tight lids in order to allow combustion gases to escape and flamable gas to escape in case of a flameout. You can still smoke on them, you just need more wood.<br />
<br />
<strong>Burners.</strong> On gas grills, aluminum burners burn out and cast iron burners rust. You want stainless steel or brass burners. Stainless 304 is the best grade. If you will only have one grill, try to get one with an infrared or sear burner so you can do steaks properly. Also, pay attention to which way the burners line up, left to right, or front to back. I prefer burners that line up front to back because it is easier to set up multiple heat zones, hot, medium and low for cooking different foods at once or for indirect cooking. Gas grills usually have a heat diffuser over the burners to protect them from dripping grease and to distribute heat more evenly. Some use metal plates. They can rust and occasionally need replacing. Others use lava rocks or ceramic rocks. They eventually saturate with grease and need replacing.<br />
<br />
<strong>Starter or igniter. </strong>Gas grills need a starter or igniter. Some are electric and need a battery. Others use a button or dial to generate a spark. Crossover ignitions work by lighting one burner first, and the flame crosses over to other burners. Electronic starters are faster, but this is not a deal breaker. There should also be a manual ignition hole so if your igniter breaks you can insert a wood match or stick lighter. Keep long wooden matches on hand in case the ignition fails as it occasionally does.<br />
<br />
<strong>Materials, workmanship and durability.</strong> The best grills are cast aluminum, cast iron, enamel bonded to steel, powder coated steel, and stainless steel. Quality stainless steel and aluminum will not rust, but they do discolor with use and age. Your shiny new stainless grill will never look as good as the day you bought it. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/understand_stainless_steel.html" target="_hplink">Click here to read what you need to know about stainless steel</a>. Nonstainless steel can rust, but if it is properly coated with powder coat or enamel, it should not rust unless you chip it. Ask: How well is it painted? How are the welds? Does it have sharp edges? Sturdy legs? Big hinges and latches? A lot of plastic parts? Do the moving parts look like they'll last? How heavy is the metal? Heavy steel holds and distributes heat better than thin steel. Is the metal thick enough that it will not warp?<br />
<br />
The thickness of steel is expressed in "gauge" numbers. The lower the gauge number, the thicker the steel. Here are some common gauge numbers of steel used in making grills.<br />
<br />
10 gauge = 0.1345" thick<br />
12 = 0.1046<br />
14 = 0.0747<br />
16 = 0.0598<br />
18 = 0.0478<br />
<br />
<strong>Grates. </strong>Most grilling is by <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/thermodynamics_of_cooking.html" target="_hplink">radiation or convection</a>, but where the food is in contact with the grates, the cooking is by conduction and that's how you get dark grill marks. There are a variety of materials used for grates ranging from cheap wire grates, stainless steel, porcelain coated, cast iron, expanded steel and even extruded aluminum. There is a fanboy cult around cast iron, but I am not among them. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/grill_grates_and_grate_cleaning.html" target="_hplink">Click here to read my article about grill grates and to see which ones I like best</a>. On charcoal grills, some manufacturers offer hinged grates or access doors so you can easily add more coals when necessary. But don't let crappy grates kill the deal. You can always buy replacement grates. They are not expensive.<br />
<br />
<strong>Rotisserie. </strong>Rotisserie cooking is an excellent method for cooking whole chickens and turkeys. Most charcoal grills cannot be outfitted with a rotisserie and most gas grills can. You need access to electricity for their electric motors to run. A good rotisserie should have a sturdy motor and a counterweight to balance the load. The best rotisseries are basket types rather than the more common spear that pierces the meat, but they are hard to find. Rotisseries usually cost extra.<br />
<br />
<strong>Thermometer. </strong>Most thermometers on grills are bimetal dials and not accurate. Manufacturers buy the cheapest model they can find and then mount them up in the dome, a long way away from the food, even higher than the warming rack. If you ever hope to make great meals on a grill, and you can and I can help, fit good digital thermometers into your budget. You need one to place on the cooking surface near the meat, and another to check the meat temp. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/thermometer_buying_guide.html" target="_hplink">Click this link to read about how thermometers work and see which ones I recommend</a>.<br />
<br />
<strong>Dual fuel.</strong> If you are buying a liquid propane (LP) gas grill, check to see if it can be adapted to household natural gas. NG is cheaper, but you need to pay for installation of the pipe and then you can't roll the grill around. If you want to go this route, find out if there is an adapter kit for the grill you're eyeballing and how much the adapter kit costs. Some new grills have one side for gas and the other for charcoal. This is a great idea since gas is known for convenience, temp control and easy cleanup, and charcoal for searing heat and smoky flavor. Alas, most of the combos are cheaply built and are compromises on all fronts.<br />
<br />
<strong>Built-in grills. </strong>You might want a grill that can be permanently mounted into an outdoor kitchen. Think carefully about this strategy. When it dies, you will almost certainly be unable to find a replacement that fits into the same slot as the old one. If you decide you want a newer model, or something larger, or you want to switch from gas to charcoal, you're stuck. There is no standard size for these and it is doubtful the replacement you want will fit. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/designing_your_outdoor_kitchen.html" target="_hplink">Click here to read more about designing an outdoor kitchen</a>.<br />
<br />
<strong>Carts and wheels.</strong> Many grills come on carts. They should be well built, with sturdy welds and bolts. Some carts are enclosed for storage. You want sturdy shelves and doors. Check to see if they are rainproof. You don't want your charcoal or pellets getting wet. On really rainy days I roll my gasser right up to the back door so I don't have to go out. If it has wheels, how sturdy are they? Rubber or plastic? And are they large enough to roll smoothly on a rough surface such a deck, concrete, pavers or the lawn?<br />
<br />
<strong>Side shelves. </strong>Wooden shelves rot. Are the shelves sturdy? Will they hold a turkey?<br />
<br />
<strong>Side burners. </strong>A side burner is a handy, but not necessary feature. They're great for making side dishes or warming sauces. A few even have a griddle that sits over them, perfect for eggs, fish or grilled cheese sandwiches. Most have trouble maintaining a low simmer, so they can burn your sauces. Instead of paying $200 for a built-in side burner, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/barbecue_accessories.html#butane" target="_hplink">you can buy a standalone burner cheap</a>.<br />
<br />
<strong>Cover. </strong>Does it come with a cover? Will the cover last more than a week? Is it so loose fitting it will blow off in the wind?<br />
<br />
<strong>Assembly. </strong>Most grills come knocked down and they can be tricky to assemble. And you will lose a screw. If you don't have the necessary time or tools, or aren't confident in your skills, many merchants will assemble for you. For a fee.<br />
<br />
<strong>Manual.</strong> Is there a manual? Was it translated from Chinese by a high school English student?<br />
<br />
<strong>Cookbook. </strong>Some grills come with a nice cookbook. If not, you'll have to buy my book when it comes out.<br />
<br />
<strong>Ease of cleaning.</strong> Can you remove ash or grease easily? Some charcoal grills have ash collectors, and most gassers have grease collectors. Do the grates come out easily? Can you get at the burners to clean or replace them? Does the grease tray come out easily?<br />
<br />
<strong>Warranty and support.</strong> What kind of warranty and/or guarantee does it come with? On gassers, check the warranty on the burners; sometimes they have a separate warranty than the rest of the grill. You want five to 10 years. What is the dealer's reputation? Is there a phone number and email for tech support or are they hiding? Is the website informative? How about the manual? What if you need parts? How long have they been in business?<br />
<br />
<strong>Safety. </strong>Is it child and pet safe? Are electrical parts safe from rain and snow? Is the grease pan right where the dog likes it?<br />
<br />
<strong>Footprint. </strong>Can it fit in on your condo's balcony? And speaking of balconies, some buildings have restrictions on they type of grill you can use. Check them out before you whip out that credit card.<br />
<br />
<strong>Other accessories.</strong> Propane fuel gauge? Night lights? Cutting boards? Griddles? Woks? Steamers? Drink holders? Can openers? Surround sound?<br />
<br />
<strong>Color.</strong> I ask my wife what color I want.<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>All text and photos are Copyright (c) 2013 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved. For more of Meathead's writing, photos, recipes, and barbecue tips &amp; technique, please <a href="http://AmazingRibs.com" target="_hplink">visit his website AmazingRibs.com</a> and subscribe to his email newsletter, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/smoke_signals_newsletter/index.html" target="_hplink">Smoke Signals</a>.</strong><br><br><strong>Follow Meathead on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs" target="_hplink">http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs</a></strong>]]></content>
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</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Analysis: Easier Meat Labels? My Butt</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/analysis-easier-meat-labe_b_3022068.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.3022068</id>
    <published>2013-04-05T13:21:55-04:00</published>
    <updated>2013-06-05T05:12:01-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[The new naming convention is a long way from being as easy as it could be.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Meathead</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/"><![CDATA[Meat names are confusing, to say the least, so Thursday's announcement that The Beef Checkoff Program, the National Pork Board, and the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) have agreed to new labeling standards in an attempt to "make things easier on the consumer" should elicit unbridled joy from a man known as Meathead. What has really happened is these three promoters, and yes, a major part of the USDA's mission is to promote US agriculture, have tweaked meat labels a bit and in the process found a way to "add value to the carcass", and sell it as consumerism. And in the process they have made all your cookbooks and favorite cooking websites obsolete.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-04-05-beef_cuts.jpg"><img alt="2013-04-05-beef_cuts.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-04-05-beef_cuts-thumb.jpg" width="650" height="493" /></a><br />
<br />
On the surface they are attempting to make meat labels less confusing, and if they follow up the new labeling nomenclature with the major marketing campaign they promise, <em>they might make buying meat a teensy bit easier,</em> but they are a long way from making it as easy as it could be, and a lot closer to jacking up prices just in time for barbecue season. But these guys are good, and practically every news report on the topic glowed with words like "user friendly" and touted the supposed consumer benefits.<br />
<br />
The agreement, being implemented as we eat, attaches some of the more marketable names used by restaurants to meat cuts rather than the anatomical and technical names used by butchers. Lamb and veal names will remain the same for a while, but they will probably have to take a seat at the table eventually.<br />
<br />
<blockquote><strong><ul><li><a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/beef/zen_of_beef_cuts.html" target="_hplink">Click here to see the current beef names and photos</a>, and a link to all the new names and old names side by side.</li><br />
<li><a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/porknography/pork_cuts.html" target="_hplink">Click here to see the current pork names and photos</a>, and a link to all the new names and old names side by side.</li><br />
<li><a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/porknography/new_pork_cuts.html" target="_hplink">Click here to see photos of the most popular pork cuts and their new names.</a></li></ul></strong><br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
<h2>Kiss my pork butt and pork chops goodbye</h2><br />
The most significant changes impact pork, specifically its loin muscle. That's the long lean muscle that runs along either side of the spine from shoulder to hip. You have a pair of them on either side of your spine, too. This is the most valuable muscle on the animal and the one for which the expression "eating high on the hog" was created.<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="2013-04-05-pork_chop.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-04-05-pork_chop.jpg" width="194" height="188" align="right" />Pork chops from the loin will begin using more sexy names previously seen only on beef. Chops from the rib section of the loin, previously called "pork loin chops" or "rib chops", will be called "ribeyes", same as beef steaks from the same location (that's a pork ribeye at right). Pork chops from further back will be called "strip chops" same as "strip steaks". Chops from further back will be called "T-bone chops", and at the end of the chain, "porterhouse chops". All four of these cuts were often called simply "pork chops", and, although they are different, the taste and texture differences are minor. That's one step forward for equality between species, one step forward for culinary accuracy, and two steps backward at the cash register.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2013-04-05-porterhouse_and_tbone.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-04-05-porterhouse_and_tbone.jpg" width="335" height="228" align="right" />How this is easier is hard to understand. Few except the most ravenous carnivores can explain the difference between a "porterhouse steak" and a "T-bone steak". Final answer: The T-bone and porterhouse are similar looking steaks with two muscles separated by a T-shaped bone (at right). One side of the T has a large section of loin and the other has a small section of tenderloin, which is a different, more tender muscle. The difference between the porterhouse and T-bone is the size of tenderloin. Because the tenderloin tapers like a baseball bat and the T-bone is further to the front of the animal, the tenderloin portion is smaller than on the porterhouse, a minimum of 1/2" wide at the T. The tenderloin on the porterhouse must be a minimum of 1 1/4" wide, but they can be up to 3" wide. Because pork chops are smaller than beef steaks, who knows how this will translate.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2013-04-05-pork_butt.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-04-05-pork_butt.jpg" width="300" height="272" align="right" />Under the new system, "pork butt", which is a cut from the hog's shoulder, not the rear end as one might think, will now be called the "Boston roast". Well that certainly gets rid of one of the goofiest anomalies in meat labeldom, but just how is "Boston roast" more helpful? "Shoulder" would have been a lot more descriptive. Instead they went from confusing to meaningless. Don't expect to see the hundreds of barbecue competitions and thousands of barbecue restaurants calling their pulled pork meat "Boston roast" anytime soon. <br />
<br />
There is a "new" pork cut called "loin riblets". These are tiny nibs of cartilage on the spine called feather bones, a cut popularized as Applebee's Famous Riblets. Watch for them in a store near you.<br />
<br />
Some beef names will also be changing. "Beef chuck eye country-style ribs boneless", which sounds like something off a WWII K rations can, will become "country-style ribs", a cut that is extremely popular on pork. Of course this is still not quite right since most "country-style ribs" have no ribs. Most have shoulder blade bones, and they really are closer to chops than ribs in both the way they taste and the way they should be cooked. In fact, cooking "country-style ribs" like one should cook "spareribs" will produce meat that will taste inferior to the plate upon which it is served. Alas, the new nomenclature simply did not go far enough to clean up these antiquated anomalies. "Country-style ribs" should be called "shoulder chops" on both animals.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2013-04-05-chateaubriand.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-04-05-chateaubriand.jpg" width="322" height="152" align="right" />Surprisingly there is no "filet mignon" on the new list. This highly desirable cut is to be called "tenderloin filet", not to be confused with "strip filet" or "top sirloin filet" or "ribeye filet" which are entirely different muscles. Clear on that? Among other popular names not on the list is "chateaubriand" (shown here), the pricey center cut from the tenderloin. Were "mignon" and "chateaubriand" too Frenchy for the focus groups? But "kabobs", a Middle Eastern name, can now be used on cubes of both beef and pork.<br />
<br />
"Beef shoulder boneless top blade steak" will now be called "Flatiron steak" a common name for a tasty muscle that was relatively unknown until about a decade ago when meat scientists found a way to excavate it from the tangle of muscles in the shoulder and save it from the ignominy of pot roast or hamburger It has since found a comfy home on restaurant menus and in the meat case at a "value added" price.<br />
<br />
But just how is "Flatiron" more descriptive than what it could be, "boneless shoulder blade steak", which, although not memorable, tells you exactly what you are getting? How is a city name more helpful that the name of the part of the body? Is "Denver roast" really more helpful than "beef chuck eye"? And what if you hate Peyton Manning? Do you really want a Denver roast?<br />
<br />
And how will all this play with the new USDA labeling rules scheduled to take effect in soon requiring labels to show where the animal was born, raised, and slaughtered. This is a valuable step towards transparency and will be immensely helpful if there is a food-borne illness outbreak. But how Harvey the househusband interpret a Des Moines roast from Shanghai? And how will Canada and Mexico respond to a law they believe is really protectionism designed to give US grown meats a market advantage?<br />
<br />
<h2>New label designs</h2><br />
Although these new labeling standards approved for the Uniform Retail Meat Identity Standards (URMIS) are voluntary, I expect that most retailers will adapt them rapidly, as soon as they can reprogram the label printers on their scales, just in time for barbecue season.<br />
<br />
The new labels will feature three lines on the label:<br />
<br />
<strong>LINE 1</strong>, in large type, will be the new name. Notice that pork or beef will not be on the top line.<br />
<strong>LINE 2</strong>, in slightly smaller type, will display the species first, followed by some of the anatomical name of the cut.<br />
<strong>LINE 3</strong> will offer preparation suggestions.<br />
<br />
So here's how two cuts will look on the label. Notice that appropriate beef cuts will still be called steaks, and corresponding pork cuts will be called chops. But nothing can be that simple in the meat world, numerous pork cuts previously called steaks have been grandfathered in.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-04-05-new_labels.jpg"><img alt="2013-04-05-new_labels.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-04-05-new_labels-thumb.jpg" width="550" height="394" /></a><br />
<br />
In the press releases it is claimed that 350 names will change. A close look at the 197 beef changes and the 121 pork changes (my fingers and toes show that to be 318 not 350) shows that most of them are minor and barely noticeable. "Beef round roast bone in" is now "round roast" on line 1, and "beef, bone in" on line 2. Not much of a difference there. In fact most of the changes are merely parsing the name into two lines. I count no more than a dozen or so significant changes.<br />
<br />
<h2>And the winner is...</h2><br />
Yes, we consumers got a slightly easier to read label, but it looks to me that the pork people are the big winners here, relegating the species name to the second line while the new sexier value added beefy name goes up top. No longer are they trying to promote themselves as the "other white meat" and compete with chicken. They dropped that campaign last year. Now they are running with the bulls. Let's not forget that in 2011 the pork people got USDA to lower the minimum recommended internal temp for whole muscle pork from 165&deg;F to 145&deg;F, while beef has been stuck at 145&deg;F forever. Medium rare is about 130&deg;F and if steakhouses all cooked their steaks to 145&deg;F, at which temp they are barely still pink, they would go out of business in a week. If I'm ever caught in a "hiking the Appalachian Trail", I'm hiring the pork lawyers, lobbyists, and PR flacks.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-04-05-pork_cuts.jpg"><img alt="2013-04-05-pork_cuts.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-04-05-pork_cuts-thumb.jpg" width="650" height="612" /></a><br />
<br />
<h2>How we got here</h2><br />
<br />
<img alt="2013-04-05-stockyards.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-04-05-stockyards.jpg" width="500" height="319" align="right" />The history of meat labeling is long and winding. For centuries, animals were slaughtered and broken down by the town butcher and by restaurants close to where they were grown, and there was no label consistency from one butcher to the next. In 1865, immediately after the Civil War, the Union Stockyards in Chicago became a central distribution point for shipping live animals. In 1880 Gustavus Swift, a large meat processor, introduced a rail car that was well insulated, cooled by ice, and designed so that the shifting weight of hanging sides and quarters would not derail the car. The cold meat could stay fresh for days and be distributed to remote locations, like Miami, where they would be broken down by local butchers and restaurants. But the cuts and labels were still inconsistent.<br />
<br />
This all changed in War World II when the government standardized on large "primal cuts" and corresponding nomenclature for some smaller cuts. In the 1960s a major change was pioneered by Iowa Beef Processors, called "boxed beef". They removed many bones and a significant amount of fat at the slaughterhouse, then placed the cuts in sterile shrink wrapped plastic bags without oxygen, and packed them in boxes of the same cut. Without oxygen and chilled or frozen, the meat was safe from microbial spoilage and oxidation. Pork and other meat packers followed shortly.<br />
<br />
URMIS was founded in 1973 but the anatomical jargon remained confusing and the new standards don't do enough to really make things user friendly. To this day, nobody can say for sure what a "Delmonico steak" or a "London broil" really are, and they are not covered in the new guidelines. These marketing wizards need to ask, "WWJD? What would Jobs do?"<br />
<br />
To add to the confusion, the cuts and names are different around the world, even in English speaking countries. Today The North American Meat Processors Meat Buyer's Guide book has become the standard by which butchers cut their meats so a chuck roll is the same coast to coast. Clearly the next edition will be a big seller.<br />
<br />
But the best news is that prudish lawmakers have not yet banned names like chicken breasts.<br />
<br />
<strong>All text and photos are Copyright (c) 2013 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved. For more of Meathead's writing, photos, recipes, and barbecue tips &amp; technique, please <a href="http://AmazingRibs.com" target="_hplink">visit his website AmazingRibs.com</a> and subscribe to his email newsletter, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/smoke_signals_newsletter/index.html" target="_hplink">Smoke Signals</a>.</strong><br><br><strong>Follow Meathead on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs" target="_hplink">http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs</a></strong>]]></content>
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</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Make The Ultimate Ham on Your Grill</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/make-the-ultimate-ham-on-_b_2948323.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.2948323</id>
    <published>2013-03-25T11:34:26-04:00</published>
    <updated>2013-05-25T05:12:01-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[The world of hams is confusing, but it is worth getting a handle on things because a little knowledge will make your ham dinners much much better.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Meathead</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/"><![CDATA[<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-03-25-wet_cured_ham.jpg"><img alt="2013-03-25-wet_cured_ham.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-03-25-wet_cured_ham-thumb.jpg" width="350" height="291" align="right" /></a>The world of hams is confusing, and that's an understatement, but it is worth getting a handle on things because a little knowledge will make your ham dinners much much better.<br />
<br />
Hams are cut from the top of the rear legs of hogs, from the knee to the hip, including the big meaty rump muscles, and they can be divided into three broad categories: Fresh hams, dry cured hams, and wet cured hams. Alas, when you buy a ham, it most often is labeled something else, like Boiled Ham, Canned Ham, Ib&eacute;rico Ham, Picnic Ham, Prosciutto, Smithfield Ham, Smoked Ham, Spiral Cut Ham, and Virginia Ham to name a few. If your head is starting to spin, my article, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/porknography/zen_of_ham.html" target="_hplink">The Zen of Ham</a>, explains almost all the different types of ham, and it is worth a read if you ever hope to become a master hamster.<br />
<br />
By far the most popular hams in the U.S. are wet-cured hams, hams that have been cured by soaking in a brine, or that have been injected with a salt solution, and then pre-cooked. The brine usually has salt, sugar and spice and everything nice, and the cooking often includes smoking. This was a method developed for preserving large hunks of meat like hog rumps long before refrigeration was invented.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-03-25-wet_curing_ham.jpg"><img alt="2013-03-25-wet_curing_ham.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-03-25-wet_curing_ham-thumb.jpg" width="350" height="526" align="right" /></a>At right is a ham in brine at <a href="http://www.vierestaurant.com" target="_hplink">Vie Restaurant</a>, a Michelin star winner in Western Springs, IL, one of my all-time faves, and one of the few restaurants that makes most of its own bacon, hams, sausages and other charcuterie from scratch. Alas, many commercial wet-cured hams are made in a hurry by simply injecting the brine along with a lot of preservatives.<br />
<br />
Wet-cured hams are pinkish purple in color, often have a sweet glaze baked on, and are frequently put on a lathe where a blade can spiral cut them while they are turned. This makes carving them at your Easter table a snap. They usually come in a plastic shrinkwrap, and if it says "cooked" on the package, you can eat it cold right out of the bag. But cured hams are better served warm with a sweet glaze to counterbalance the saltiness from the brine that was injected into it.<br />
<br />
Since wet cured hams are precooked, in theory all you need to do is warm yours throughout, avoid high heat, and avoid cooking too long to keep it from drying. Standard cooking technique on the package and in all the cookbooks says to heat it at 325&deg;F until it reaches 140&deg;F. But that is a recipe for dry meat. If you take a little care you can really amp yours up to 11 on the grill (although the same method works fine indoors). Here's how.<br />
<br />
The problem with most wet-cured hams is that they are dry when you cook them according to the instructions on the package, and the smoke flavor is barely noticeable. So we'll cook ours a lot lower and slower to keep the moisture in, add just a little fresh smoke, wrap it in foil to further moisturize, sizzle on a glaze, and make a thin sauce that will penetrate the meat and add back moisture.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-03-25-big_bob_gibsons_book_chris_lilly.jpg"><img alt="2013-03-25-big_bob_gibsons_book_chris_lilly.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2013-03-25-big_bob_gibsons_book_chris_lilly-thumb.jpg" width="200" height="232" align="right" /></a>You can use the glaze that is packed in with the ham, but I chuck it and use a recipe from the great pitmaster, Chris Lilly, executive chef at Big Bob Gibson's in Decatur, AL, and author of  <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0307408116/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=211189&amp;creative=373489&amp;creativeASIN=0307408116&amp;link_code=as3&amp;tag=amazi0a8-20" target="_hplink"><em>Big Bob Gibson's BBQ Book: Recipes and Secrets from a Legendary Barbecue Joint</em></a>. It is a balanced blend of sweet and savory with apricot preserves, honey, brown sugar, mustard, Worcestershire, soy sauce, as well as herbs and spices. There's a link to the recipe below.<br />
<br />
Remember to save the bone for split pea soup, and if you play it right, there will be leftovers and that means sandwiches with <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/BBQ_sauces/south_carolina_mustard_BBQ_sauce.html" target="_hplink">South Carolina Mustard Sauce</a>, fritatta, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/beans/hoppin_john_beans.html" target="_hplink">Hoppin John beans</a>, eggs Benedict, Hawaiian pizza, ham salad...<br />
<br />
<strong>Makes.</strong> 8 servings<br />
<strong>Preparation time. </strong>10 minutes<br />
<strong>Cooking time.</strong> 10 to 12 minutes per pound at 225&deg;F if you use the foil wrap<br />
<strong>Serve with.</strong> <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/slaws_salads_and_other_vegetables/grilled_asparagus.html" target="_hplink">Grilled asparagus</a> and <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/potatoes/sweet_potato_steak_fries.html" target="_hplink">grilled sweet potato steak fries</a><br />
<strong>Wine. </strong>A slightly sweet ros&eacute; is traditional, and with good reason. A hint of sweetness pairs with the glaze an balances the saltiness. Among my other faves are rieslings in the 1 or 2% sweetness range from the Finger Lakes, Pacific Northwest, or German and Austrian Kabinetts.<br />
<br />
<strong>Ingredients</strong><br />
8 pound bone-in precooked wet cured ham<br />
1 cup <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/BBQ_sauces/chris_lillys_spiced_apricot_glaze.html" target="_hplink">Chris Lilly's Spicy Apricot Glaze</a><br />
1 cup chicken broth<br />
<br />
<strong>Method</strong><br />
1) You can do this step well in advance. Make 1 cup of Chris Lilly's Spicy Apricot Glaze. Make the sauce by putting the chicken broth in a pan and whisk in 4 tablespoons of the glaze over medium heat until it is dissolved. Put the remaining glaze and the baste in the fridge.<br />
<br />
2) Prepare your grill for <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/2-zone_indirect_cooking.html" target="_hplink">2-zone cooking</a> and preheat it to about 225&deg;F on the indirect side. If the skin has not been removed, remove it, and trim off almost all the fat leaving no more than a thin layer. If it came with a prepackaged glaze, throw it out. If there is a glaze already on the meat, rinse it off. Chris' glaze is better. If it is spiral-sliced, let some water get into the sliced areas to help reduce moisture loss.<br />
<br />
3) Place the meat on the indirect side of the grill, add a handful or two of wood for smoking as described in my articles on the <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/charcoal_grill_setup.html" target="_hplink">Best Setup for a Charcoal Grill</a>, the <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/gas_grill_setup.html" target="_hplink">Best Setup for a Gas Grill</a>, the <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/weber_smokey_mountain_setup.html" target="_hplink">Best Setup for a Bullet Smoker</a>, and the Best Setup for an Offset Smoker. You do not need much smoke since the meat has been smoked once already. Close the lid, and smoke for about 1 hour.<br />
<br />
4) Tear off about 5' of aluminum foil, if you have double strength, that's better. Fold it in half to make it about 2 1/2' in length. Take the ham off the grill, place the flat, cut end on the foil making sure you don't puncture the foil, pour 1/2 cup of the water over the meat and seal the meat and water in the foil making it look like a giant candy kiss. Crimp the seams tight. We don't want any steam escaping and water leaking. This technique helps it cook faster by generating a little steam, which penetrates faster than dry heat, and keeps the meat moist. Place the package back on the indirect side at about 225&deg;F. If you have a <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/thermometer_buying_guide.html" target="_hplink">leave-in meat thermometer</a>, insert it now through the foil into the fat end, so the tip is about 1" away from the bone. Watch the oven temp and try to keep it around 225&deg;F.<br />
<br />
5) When the meat temp hits about 130&deg;F, open the foil, paint on the glaze, leave the foil open to catch drips, close the grill, and roast for about 10 minutes until the glaze gets thick. While the glaze is setting, get the sauce out and warm it on the hot side of the grill or the side burner or indoors.<br />
<br />
6) After about 10 minutes, open the grill, dip your basting brush in the pools of glaze on the foil and paint the meat again. Add more glaze if you wish. Now remove the foil, and pour any drippings into the sauce pan. Leave the lid open, remove the thermometer and move the ham over to the hot side. Stand right there and watch so the glaze does not burn. Don't walk away even to get a beer. Let the glaze sizzle, but not blacken. You are just trying to caramelize the sugars and develop more flavor. After about 3 or 4 minutes, roll it a bit and keep rolling it until all sides have sizzled except the bare meat side. Leave it bare. By now the temp should have risen to 140&deg;F. Go ahead and check if you want, but trust me, it's there.<br />
<br />
7) Taste the sauce. If you want it sweeter, add more glaze, but it shouldn't need more sugar. Pour the sauce into a gravy boat, and move the ham to a cutting board, bare side down. Carve it by slicing in from the sides towards the bone in the center of the top. Then slice down along the bone to release the slices. Serve, and spoon a little sauce over the meat.<br />
<br />
<strong>All text and photos are Copyright (c) 2013 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved. For more of Meathead's writing, photos, recipes, and barbecue tips &amp; technique, please <a href="http://AmazingRibs.com" target="_hplink">visit his website AmazingRibs.com</a> and subscribe to his email newsletter, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/smoke_signals_newsletter/index.html" target="_hplink">Smoke Signals</a>.</strong><br><br><strong>Follow Meathead on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs" target="_hplink">http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs</a></strong>]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/1054436/thumbs/s-HAM-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>World's Best Pitmaster? Hint: There's Lipstick On That Pig!</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/worlds-best-pitmaster_b_2166820.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.2166820</id>
    <published>2012-11-20T16:25:58-05:00</published>
    <updated>2013-01-20T05:12:01-05:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[It wasn't even close. Out of five categories, four were won by one team.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Meathead</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/"><![CDATA[On November 10, <a href="http://www.grilling.com" target="_hplink">Kingsford Charcoal</a> broke new ground in the rapidly growing world of competition barbecue and wrote a check for $50,000 to the winner of the first annual Kingsford Invitational, a showdown designed to unify the title and name one pitmaster the best in the world.<br />
<br />
It wasn't even close. Out of five categories, four were won by one team. The winner? Not the usual big burly guy. There was lipstick on that pig.<br />
<br />
Normally there are scores of teams, sometimes 100 or more in each of the 700 plus barbecue competitions held each year in the US. They compete on different circuits with different rules. But in this event there were only eight teams, each the winner of the most prestigious competitions in the nation, representing all the major circuits.<br />
<br />
The event, held in Belle, MO, was a clever idea, sort of an end of season playoff with the top teams going head to head with a panel of elite judges. In normal barbecue cookoffs, all the entries in a category are divided between many panels of six judges each. Most panels have a mix of really experienced judges, less experienced, and rookies. Some judges are only familiar with one regional style of barbecue and unfamiliar with the styles cooked by teams from across the country. Some are easily impressed, and some are curmudgeons, so the low score is discarded.<br />
<br />
But the biggest problem of the big judgings is that there is no head to head tasteoff. If there are 10 panels tasting ribs, the high score wins, but it may in fact not be the best of all, it just may have been tasted by a generous panel. At the new Kingsford Invitational, all eight samples were served to one very experienced panel, head to head.<br />
<br />
The event also used a simpler scoring system that Yours Truly helped design. Without getting into detail about comparison testing methodologies, the major change was that the judges gave each sample a single score. In most barbecue judgings they give a score for appearance, another for taste, and another for tenderness/texture, each is weighted differently by a computer, and then totaled. The problem with this method, as proven in judgings of wine and dairy, is that when judges are asked to do this, and then asked to rank the samples, the two don't always match. If they are asked to simply give only one number, the score and ranking come closer to matching. The standard method is like rating a concert by scoring each instrument separately and adding them up. Or evaluating a painting by scoring the colors separately. It is really the overall impression that matters. Sometimes the sum is better, or worse, than the parts.<br />
<br />
The competitors were formidable, and, as a judge, I can say that the meats they turned in were extremely hard to score since they were almost all very high quality.<br />
<br />
<h2>The main meats</h2><br />
The teams were judged on the usual four categories reviewed in events sanctioned by the Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS): Pork, pork ribs, chicken, beef brisket. For this event, a one-bite free-for-all limited to five ingredients category was added as a tiebreaker, with a $5,000 prize.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-11-20-shoulder.jpg"><img alt="2012-11-20-shoulder.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-11-20-shoulder-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="217" align="right" style="float: right; margin:10px"></a><strong>Pork.</strong> For pork, all but one team turned in meat from the Boston Butt, the upper half of the shoulder surrounding the shoulder blade. This cut is very flavorful, juicy, and tender when cooked low and slow for hours. They all removed the <em>multifidus dorsi</em>, better known as "Money Muscle", cut it into slices, and served them as small tender disks. They then included thick shards of other muscles in their turn-in boxes, and a few added shreds of pulled pork.  <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/porknography/perfect_pulled_pork.html" target="_hplink">For more on the money muscle and cooking Boston Butt, click here</a>.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-11-20-melissa_cookstons_hog.jpg"><img alt="2012-11-20-melissa_cookstons_hog.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-11-20-melissa_cookstons_hog-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="219" align="left" style="float: left; margin:10px"></a>The eighth team wowed the panelists by turning in five vastly different pieces of meat, a round slice of pale white loin meat, a pink hunk from the ham, a packet of long dark fibers from the shoulder, slivers of dark crust from the shoulder, and the coup de grace, a long bundle of threads muscles pulled from the belly, the part from which bacon is cut, twirled into a rope, and then coiled into a rosette. Unlike the others, this entry was not coated with thick sweet sauce, and each muscle was cooked perfectly. It was obvious that this pitmaster had roasted a whole hog, 150-200 pounds, the most difficult challenge in barbecue.<br />
<br />
This cook, it turned out, competes on the Memphis Barbecue Network (MBN) competition circuit, where they only cook whole hog, whole pork shoulder, and pork ribs. The trick of whole hog is to get the entire animal done properly at the same time, not an easy task after about 24 hours of cooking at 225 to 250F. It was at or near the top of all the scorecards.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-11-20-chicken.jpg"><img alt="2012-11-20-chicken.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-11-20-chicken-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="146" align="right" style="float: right; margin:10px"></a><strong>Chicken. </strong>All the teams cooked chicken thighs because dark meat is more forgiving, a few added breast meat, and one even placed wings in their turn-in box along with thighs. The style for cooking chicken that in vogue nowadays is to chop the ends off the thigh bone, peel back the skin, scrape off the fat, place the skin back on, trim and fold the loose ends underneath, poach them in butter and BBQ sauce in a pan on a smoker, and then submerge each perfect plump symmetrical little pillow in sweet red sauce. For the record, I didn't get a good picture in the judging tent so the picture above is from the pit of <a href="http://www.plowboysbbq.com" target="_hplink">Todd Johns, from Plowboys BBQ</a>, a team from Kansas City. <br />
<br />
<strong>Ribs. </strong>For ribs, one team turned in baby back ribs, and the rest turned in St. Louis Cut spare ribs, the center cut from the rib cage, and all were coated with a sweet red barbecue sauce glaze. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/porknography/best_BBQ_ribs_ever.html" target="_hplink">For more on cooking ribs, click here</a>.<br />
<br />
<strong>Brisket. </strong>For beef brisket, most teams turned in a nice neat thin slice of the lean flat portion and little cubes of dark "burnt ends" from the fattier point end of this large hunk of steer breast. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/beef/texas_brisket.html" target="_hplink">For more on cooking beef brisket, click here</a>.<br />
<br />
<h2>One Bite Challenge</h2><br />
The previous day, Kingsford had the teams cook a "One Bite Challenge", a small dish that could be eaten with one or two bites using anything they wanted, but contained no more than five ingredients. The winner was awarded a $5,000 check. The limit of five ingredients was easily skirted by using things like a bottled sauce and spice mixes as one ingredient.<br />
<br />
There were small portobellos stuffed with blue cheese, a risky choice since many people hate blue cheese (nicely done, but not worth a $5,000 payday); large portobellos stuffed with sausage, tomato sauce, roasted red peppers, and shredded cheese (pizza-like and fun, but there were some odd clashes going on); bacon wrapped scallops with reduced balsamic (too sweet for scallops); breaded pan fried walleye on toasted English muffin coated with sour cherry jam (jam is not a nice thing to do to fish); grilled ribeyes (seasoned and cooked beautifully inside, but pale on the outside because the were not seared); grilled beef tenderloins on a potato pancake (meh); pan seared beef tenderloins with an herbed butter (pan seared on a grill in a grilling competition?).<br />
<br />
The winner, by a mile, was peeled shrimp, with a strip of cream cheese down its back, a pickled jalapeno slice, wrapped in bacon, grilled, and painted with Thai sweet chile sauce. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/seafood/bacon_wrapped_stuffed_shrimp.html" target="_hplink">Click here for Melissa Cookston's Prize Winning Grilled Bacon Wrapped Stuffed Shrimp</a>.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-11-20-the_winner.jpg"><img alt="2012-11-20-the_winner.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-11-20-the_winner-thumb.jpg" width="600" height="354" /></a><br />
<br />
<h2>The winner: Melissa Cookston</h2><br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-11-20-melissa_cookston.jpg"><img alt="2012-11-20-melissa_cookston.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-11-20-melissa_cookston-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="164" align="right" style="float: right; margin:10px"></a>And the winner was <a href="http://www.yazoosdeltaq.com" target="_hplink">Melissa Cookston of Yazoo's Delta Q</a> based in Nesbitt, MS, just a few miles south of Memphis. She got there by winning the huge <a href="http://www.memphisinmay.org/worldchampionshipbbqcontest" target="_hplink">Memphis In May</a> competition, where she has won the whole hog category an unheard of three years in a row. She teamed with her husband, Pete, and their business partner, John Wheeler, all owners of the <a href="http://memphisbbqco.com" target="_hplink">Memphis Barbecue Company restaurant</a>. She won all categories except chicken. Anybody want to argue who the top pitmaster in the world is?<br />
<br />
I really didn't want to make a big deal of the gender of the winner, but it is really hard to ignore the fact that, in a fast growing sport (can we call this a sport?), where there are only a handful of female competitors, most of whom rarely finish in the money, Cookston is almost always among the top finishers, and in this case, she was woman on top.<br />
<br />
But I suppose this should come as no real surprise. According to Harvard Professor of Biological Anthropology, Richard Wrangham, in his excellent book <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0465020410/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amazingribs--20&amp;link_code=as3&amp;camp=211189&amp;creative=373489&amp;creativeASIN=0465020410" target="_hplink">Catching Fire, How Cooking Made Us Human</a>, <em>homo erectus</em> probably discovered cooking 1.8 million years ago. While the men were the hunters, the women were the pitmasters. So things may have come full circle.<br />
<br />
Cookston was born in Ruleville, MS, "A greasy spot in the road" in the Mississippi Delta, home of countless blues musicians and barbecue cooks. She and her Mom would make the 115 mile drive to Memphis occasionally, and she fell in love with the ribs at a joint named Gridley's.<br />
<br />
Years later she took a job as a bartender/manager at a restaurant in Memphis where she met, and hated, her boss. It took her a year after she left the place to soften up and date him. He took her to a barbecue competition. She had always loved barbecue, but had no idea how fascinating a competition could be.<br />
<br />
She went home and fired up Betsy, her barrel grill, and married her ex-nemesis. In 1997, when she entered her first cookoff "There were no fancy expensive smokers like the teams use nowadays" she says. Everybody used barrels. She won her first championship in 2001 and eventually upgraded to smokers made by Backwoods, one that sells for about $6,000 and another that goes for about $9,000 (they make some very nice backyard units for much less -- I have their Party model). Cookston remembers the day she sold Betsy. As she was being driven away a hubcap popped off and rolled down the driveway, smashing into a tree. She now regrets letting Betsy go and thinks the hubcap meant Betsy was unhappy too.<br />
<br />
Cookston uses thermometers to check meat temps during the cook, but eschews them when it counts, when it is time to take the meat off. "I know by feel. My fingertips tell me when the meat is ready." She samples all her meats before turn-in but pays more attention to texture and moisture than taste. " I have my head in a pit so much that I can't smell and taste smoke much anymore."<br />
<br />
At one time she was competing in 20 or 30 events a year, but she has scaled back to about four since she opened the restaurant in December 2011. She will be opening a second one in Fayetteville, NC, in December, and hope to open another four or five in 2013.<br />
<br />
She sold her home in order to raise money for the restaurant, but it has been a huge success although she confesses to having nightmares about opening the doors and nobody would show up, she says "I'm like Sally Field. When the place fills up I feel like shouting 'They really like me!'" She is shopping for a new home now.<br />
<br />
Pete joins her for many of her contests. "Pete is shy and pushed me to the forefront and respected my ideas even though he was more skilled than I was in the beginning. We don't even have to communicate verbally when we cook." They now have a 14 year old daughter who is the five time Mississippi hamburger champion, winning her first at age 6.<br />
<br />
I asked her what to order when I visit her restaurant, and without hesitation she said "baby back ribs, potato salad, red beans &amp; rice, turnip greens, mac &amp; cheese, and cornbread. We do them all right. The ribs are the best. We soak the dried beans ourselves, none of the canned stuff. The recipes are family recipes that I've fine tuned."<br />
<br />
The biggest surprise for her in the Kingsford Invitational? "There were so many other great teams, all of whom cook chicken and brisket regularly on the KCBS circuit, I was just hoping for a good showing." I guess first place in pork, ribs, brisket, and the one bit challenge, four of the five categories classifies as a good showing. "I still can't believe I won brisket! That was just crazy". <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.yazoosdeltaq.com/#!__cooking-classes" target="_hplink">By the way, Cookston teaches barbecue classes occasionally</a>.<br />
<br />
<h2>The other teams</h2><br />
Justin McGlaun and his wife Kate of Lucky's Q from Denver, IA. His invite came because he won the <a href="http://www.kcbs.us/sams-club-series.php" target="_hplink">Sam's Club National BBQ Tour</a>. This is a series of regional elimination contests which paid $50,000 to the winner of the finals, held in Bentonville, AR. It was his marvelous chicken first place entry that kept the overall winner from a clean sweep. His team finished tied for second.<br />
<br />
Jeff Vanderlinde of <a href="http://www.shigginandgrinnin.com" target="_hplink">Shiggin' and Grinnin</a>' from Delano, MN. To get an invite he had to outcook 540 teams in the Open division of the <a href="http://www.americanroyal.com" target="_hplink">American Royal World Series of Barbecue</a> in Kansas City, MO. His team finished tied for second.<br />
<br />
Johnny "The Godfather" Trigg and his wife Trish of Smokin' Triggers from Alvarado, TX. To be invited, he won the BBQ Pitmaster's competition, on the Destination America Network. Since he began competing he has won 63 cookoffs, and is the only one to win the Jack Daniels World Championship Invitational Barbecue twice.<br />
<br />
Scott Nelson, his wife Katy, and their five children, of Pig Skin BBQ from Rockwell, IA. They were the winners of the <a href="http://www.jackdaniels.com/age?url=TheDistillery/InvitationalBBQ.aspx" target="_hplink">Jack Daniel's World Championship Invitational Barbecue</a> in Lynchburg, TN.<br />
<br />
Mike "MikeyZ" Zemenick of <a href="http://www.motleyque.com" target="_hplink">Motley Que Crew</a>, winner of the <a href="http://www.rodeohouston.com/events/bbq/index.aspx" target="_hplink">Houston Livestock &amp; Rodeo World Championship Bar-B-Que Contest</a>. When the team was started in 2003, one of the original members was Guy Fieri of the Food Network. He still joins them occasionally, but not for this event.<br />
<br />
Doug Casten of <a href="http://www.smokerspurgatory.com" target="_hplink">Smoker's Purgatory</a> from Des Moines, IA, the winner of the <a href="http://www.thinkbbq.com" target="_hplink">Great Lenexa BBQ Battle</a> in Lenexa, KS.<br />
<br />
Tommy Houston of <a href="http://www.checkeredpig.com" target="_hplink">Checkered Pig BBQ</a> from Martinsville, VA, winners of the Kingsford $40k Challenge at the Hog Happenin' in Lincolnton, NC.<br />
<br />
<h2>The judges</h2><br />
Far more important than the innovative scoring system was the fact that the judges were very experienced and knowledgeable from different regions of the nation. They were:<br />
<br />
Ardie Davis, author of five books on barbecue and grilling, including one that lives in my glove compartment "<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0740778110/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=0740778110&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=amazi0a8-20" target="_hplink">America's Best BBQ: 100 Recipes from America's Best Smokehouses, Pits, Shacks, Rib Joints, Roadhouses, and Restaurants</a>." It names their favorite hangouts and has reciped from each. I asked Davis how many times he had judged and he lost count after he passed 350.<br />
<br />
Amy Mills, of Boston, co-author of "<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1594861099/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=1594861099&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=amazi0a8-20" target="_hplink">Peace, Love and Barbecue</a>", with her BBQ champion father Mike Mills. It is one of the best books every written on the subject. She is also <a href="http://nowoncue.com" target="_hplink">a consultant to many restaurants</a>, and has served as a judge for "Best in Smoke" on the Food Network.<br />
<br />
Brad Orrison, founder and owner of one of the nation's most popular and well respected ribshacks, The <a href="http://theshedbbq.com" target="_hplink">Shed BBQ &amp; Blues Joint</a> in Ocean Springs, MS. Orrison also competes in a handful of events every year, and appeared in the "Best of Smoke" Competition on the Food Network. Orrison is a man with a sense of humor and was the glue of the panel.<br />
<br />
Harry Soo of Diamond Bar, CA, may be the hottest all round cook on the circuit under the name <a href="http://www.slapyodaddybbq.com" target="_hplink">Slap Yo Daddy BBQ</a>, winning more than 20 competitions in his five years on the circuit. Most impressive, he cooks on a single $300 <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/weber_smokey_mountain_setup.html" target="_hplink">Weber Smokey Mountain</a> while most teams use more than one smoker, some of which sell for up to $10,000.<br />
<br />
Tuffy "The Professor" Stone, a classically trained former French chef, and owner of three <a href="http://www.qbarbeque.com" target="_hplink">Q Barbeque restaurants</a> in VA. His <a href="http://www.coolsmokebarbeque.com/home.html" target="_hplink">Cool Smoke</a> competition team has won 30 championships. Stone is probably best known as one of the three judges on Destination America's "BBQ Pitmasters" television competition.<br />
<br />
Meathead Goldwyn, that's me, and my claim to fame is that I run the world's most popular BBQ website, by far, <a href="http://AmazingRibs.com" target="_hplink">AmazingRibs.com</a>, and I write for HuffPost.<br />
<br />
Kirk Newbound served as alternate judge and filled in for me in the One-Bite Challenge because I am allergic to shrimp and had to recuse myself. But I did get to taste all the others. Newbound works at the Kingsford charcoal plant in Belle, MO, and he is the captain of the Silence of the Hams competition barbecue team.<br />
<br />
<h2>Wrapup</h2><br />
The goals of the Kingsford people were mostly met. I think Cookston can fairly claim to be World Champion.<br />
<br />
<br />
This was the most difficult competition I have ever judged. Almost all the entries were well above normal, as one might expect. There were only a few that I scored below average.<br />
<br />
When it was over, I calculated that each judge had tasted about 2 pounds of meat in about three hours! At one point another judge and I had to spit out entries we had tasted. Common behavior in wine tastings, but rarely done in barbecue competitions. I didn't eat again til supper time the following day.<br />
<br />
The whole shebang was taped by a massive television crew for Discovery Network's new Destination America channel and will probably air as a documentary in March.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/links/barbecue_competitions_and_associations.html" target="_hplink">Click here to learn more about barbecue competitions and who organizes them.</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/BBQ_articles/barbecue_competition-1.html" target="_hplink">Click here to join me in following another competition cook through a cookoff</a>.<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>All text and photos are Copyright (c) 2012 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved. For more of Meathead's writing, photos, recipes, and barbecue tips &amp; technique, please <a href="http://AmazingRibs.com" target="_hplink">visit his website AmazingRibs.com</a> and subscribe to his email newsletter, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/smoke_signals_newsletter/index.html" target="_hplink">Smoke Signals</a>.</strong><br><br> <strong>Friend Meathead on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs" target="_hplink">http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs</a></strong>]]></content>
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</entry>

<entry>
    <title>The Iconic Weber Kettle, 60 Years Old, But A Long Way From Retirement. How Old Is Yours?</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/all-hail-the-iconic-weber_b_1590457.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1590457</id>
    <published>2012-07-09T16:32:16-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-09-08T05:12:09-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[There are better designs for grills, among them the top end Hasty Bakes, and there are cheaper grills, but the modern Weber Kettle has achieved icon status.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Meathead</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/"><![CDATA[<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-12-kingsford_briquets.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-12-kingsford_briquets.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-12-kingsford_briquets-thumb.jpg" width="600" height="259" /></a><br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-06-12-bonfire.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-12-bonfire.jpg" width="225" height="229" align="right" />Grilling has been around since the first time a forest fire trapped a wild hog and a band of <em>homo erectus</em> hunters noticed a wonderful scent wafting from the rubble.<br />
<br />
It probably wasn't long before the tribe threw fresh meat on the coals of a campfire, and soon thereafter devised a grid of green sticks to hold the meat above the yucky ashes. The technology progressed to open pits dug in the ground, rotisseries in front of indoor fireplaces, and brick ovens in campgrounds and back yards.<br />
<br />
In 1897 Ellsworth Zwoyer patented the charcoal briquet. It really took off when, in the 1920s, Henry Ford, in collaboration with Thomas Edison and EB Kingsford, began commercial manufacturing by making them from sawdust and wood scraps from Ford's auto plants in Detroit. (<a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/zen_of_charcoal.html" target="_hplink">Click here for more about charcoal</a>.)<br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-06-12-covered_barbecue.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-12-covered_barbecue.jpg" width="406" height="366" align="right" />In 1948 <a href="http://www.hastybake.com/" target="_hplink">George Hasty introduced the Hasty Bake</a>, a grill on wheels that burned charcoal. Something similar is still built by the Oklahoma company today.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-12-original_weber.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-12-original_weber.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-12-original_weber-thumb.jpg" width="150" height="188" /></a><br />
<br />
But the innovation that made grilling and cooking outdoors the great American pastime came in 1951 when George Stephen, Sr., frustrated by his inability to control the heat in his backyard grill, had the welders at the Weber Brothers Metal Works, where he worked, cut up a buoy that was to be used for Lake Michigan boating. The Weber Kettle was born and introduced in 1952. Among its innovations was a tight-fitting lid and adjustable air vents that allowed the cook to control temperature. Today's design is not far from the original and it is by far the most popular backyard grill in the world with the basic unit selling for under $100. (<a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_articles/barbecue_history.html" target="_hplink">Click here for more about the history of barbecue and grilling</a>.)<br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-06-12-teleflora.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-12-teleflora.jpg" width="240" height="320" align="right" />The body and lid of <a href="http://www.weber.com/explore/grills/charcoal-series" target="_hplink">the modern Weber Kettle</a> is pressed from solid sheets of steel so there are no welds to rust, and coated with a durable powder coated baked on porcelain enamel that lasts for decades. The lower intake vents double as an ash collection system and the three legs with two wheels make rolling it around a snap. It is lightweight, there are few parts, and simplicity reigns. There are now four sizes, the Smokey Joe with a 14.5" diameter grill surface, the 18.5" kettle, the 22.5" kettle, the 26.75" kettle, and the Weber Ranch Kettle which is 37.5" diameter. They also have upscale versions in colors with a side cutting board, an ash collection pot, and even a propane ignition system. The most popular is the plain old three leg 22.5", by far. In black.<br />
<br />
I asked my associate, Dr. Greg Blonder, a physicist and the former head of research at Bell Labs, about the Kettle's cooking properties. He said "Most people believe the Weber is a parabolic reflector, focusing heat emitted by the coals directly on the grill. A parabolic reflector is only effective when the heat source is tiny, intense and located at the focal point. This is not true in the case of the Weber, where the heat source is a sheet of coals spread over a large area.<br />
<br />
"On the other hand, the Weber gets many things right. While the parabola won't create a beam of infra-red energy, the high almost vertical side walls reflect the infra-red image of the coals from side to side- like images of your head pinging back and forth between two mirrors at the barbershop. So this 'reflection gallery effect' does increase the heat intensity a bit compared to cooking over an open pit, where heat emitted to the sides is lost. The system is efficient, burning a minimum number of briquets during cooking."<br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-06-12-thermodynamics_charcoal.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-12-thermodynamics_charcoal.jpg" width="500" height="293" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-06-12-BBQKing.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-12-BBQKing.jpg" width="336" height="361" align="right" />Alas, most cooks never quite figure out the thermodynamics of grilling and they tend to cover the whole bottom with hot coals. This can raise the air temp at the cooking surface to well over 500F, a recipe for incineration if the cook wanders off for long. But if cooks learn to bank the coals to one side and cook mostly with smoky convection air on the indirect side first and then sear over the direct radiant heat side at the end of the cook, they could up their game significantly. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/charcoal_grill_setup.html" target="_hplink">Click here for an article on how to best set up a Weber Kettle for grilling and smoking</a>, click here for <a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/thermodynamics_of_cooking.html" target="_hplink">a better understanding of the thermodynamics of grilling</a>, and <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/beef/searing_steaks.html" target="_hplink">click here to learn about searing at the end of a cook</a>.<br />
<br />
There are better designs for grills, among them the top end Hasty Bakes, and there are cheaper grills, but the modern Weber Kettle has achieved icon status while Hasty Bake is often confuse with the Easy Bake oven, a child's toy. The familiar profile has become a symbol for all grills and it appears in pop culture from salt &amp; pepper shakers to <a href="http://www.teleflora.com/flowers/bouquet/weber-king-of-the-grill-by-teleflora-401995p.asp" target="_hplink">Teleflora flower pots</a>. Probably no other single invention has influenced the American diet since the refrigerator.<br />
<br />
<h2>How old is your Weber Kettle?</h2><br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>All text and some photos are Copyright (c) 2012 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved. For more of Meathead's writing, photos, recipes, and barbecue info please <a href="http://AmazingRibs.com" target="_hplink">visit his website AmazingRibs.com</a> and subscribe to his email newsletter, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/smoke_signals_newsletter/index.html" target="_hplink">Smoke Signals</a>.</strong><br><br><strong>Friend Meathead on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs" target="_hplink">http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs</a></strong>]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/679238/thumbs/s-WEBER-KETTLE-GRILL-60TH-ANNIVERSARY-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>'BBQ Pitmasters' Finale: A Fine Finish As We Pay Cheeky Respect To The Godfather</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-finale-recap_b_1638978.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1638978</id>
    <published>2012-07-02T14:58:45-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-09-01T05:12:12-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[It was winner-take-all as the five victors from the preliminaries competed for $50,000, the title 'Kingsford BBQ Pitmasters Grand Champion,' and a spot in the Kingsford Invitational.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Meathead</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/"><![CDATA[<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-01-logo.jpg"><img alt="2012-07-01-logo.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-01-logo-thumb.jpg" width="600" height="210" /></a><br />
<br />
Let's begin by noting that for six weeks one of the producers of the Kingsford "BBQ Pitmasters" has been telling me the finals will be broadcast on the new <a href="http://new.destinationamerica.com" target="_hplink"><em>Destination America</em></a> network on July 8, a fact I have published in all five of my previous reviews exclusively on <em>The Huffington Post</em>. Then, last week they pulled a last minute switcheroo and announced that the broadcast of the final cookoff would be on Sunday, July 1. The announcement also contained this good news: There will be a new season of "BBQ Pitmasters". If you took Sunday night off, here's what happened:<br />
<br />
It was winner-take-all as the five victors from the preliminaries competed for $50,000, the title "Kingsford BBQ Pitmasters Grand Champion," and a spot in the Kingsford Invitational (at which I will be a judge).<br />
<br />
In this episode the contestants assembled in Lexington, NC, at the Barbecue Capital Cookoff in late April. The competitors were, in the order of their finish:<br />
<br />
1) <strong>Johnny "Godfather" Trigg, Smokin' Triggers, Alvarado TX</strong> (my prediction: 1). The grand old man of barbecue at age 73, a specialist in ribs, he has appeared on all three seasons. Trigg claims to have won $600,000 in competition over the years, but the $50,000 check was by far his biggest.<br />
<br />
2) <strong>Corey Brinson, Fatback's BBQ &amp; Rib Shack, Fayetteville, NC</strong> (my prediction: 4). This good guy makes a living selling barbecue from a trailer hitched to his pickup. You get the feeling he could really use the money. I had to root for him.<br />
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3) <strong>Danielle "Diva" Dimovski, Diva Q BBQ, Barrie, Ontario</strong> (my prediction: 2). This demonstrative, nervous Canadian is among the few competitors on the circuit who can cook more than the four meats required in a competition. She's a well-rounded cook. She's won a few events, but rarely any of the most prestigious events, and she's still not in the same league as Trigg and Cookston, although she talks as if she is. She did get in the best one-liner during the judging. The contestants were watching the judges from another location when one complained that Diva's pork wasn't as silky as it should be. "It's freakin pork," she groaned "not [bleepin] lingerie."<br />
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4) <em>(Tie)</em> <strong>Melissa Cookston of Memphis Barbecue Co. in Nesbit, MS</strong>  (my prediction: 3). The winningest woman in barbecue, one of the winningest cooks regardless of gender, a successful restaurateur and a modest person who says "We believe smack talk is bad karma, and karma is a bitch, she'll bite you in the ass." In other words, she is the anti-Diva.<br />
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4) <em>(Tie)</em> <strong>Solomon "Rib King" Williams, Carolina Rib Kings of Georgetown, SC</strong> (prediction: 5). Relatively inexperienced in big comps, he won his prelim by beating two lightweights, and was in over his head. He talked smack about Trigg being old and ready to step aside for him. Not yet, my friend.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-01-top_5.jpg"><img alt="2012-07-01-top_5.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-01-top_5-thumb.jpg" width="600" height="323" /></a><br />
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<em>From left to right in the picture above, they are Solomon, Brinson, Cookston, Dimovski and Trigg.</em><br />
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<h2>How they cooked</h2><br />
For last year's finals, the producers threw the cooks a fastball at their chins: Whole Hog. This year they lobbed a softball right over the plate. Whole pork shoulder and spare ribs. These are meats they should be able to cook with their eyes closed although they are more used to cooking just the upper part of the shoulder, called the butt. So they all went about their business on autopilot, and then, with about two hours left, the judges had them step forward. Out came a cooler filled with a pig cheeks. Jowls, as they are also called, make excellent bacon or a variant, Italian Guanciale. But because they are tough well exercised muscles, I suppose they will do well if cooked low and slow to tenderize them. They were also told they had to display all three meats in the same presentation box.<br />
<br />
All the teams pretty much treated the shoulder and ribs with the standard competition barbecue method: Trim the fat, inject flavor, season with a sweet and salty rub, roast low and slow in a smoky cooker, wrap in foil after a few hours to braise and tenderize, remove from foil and roast a little longer to firm the crusty bark and serve. That's the way these folks cook practically everything. Yes, each did little things differently, but by and large they all have just this one basic recipe they use with only minor variations on everything.<br />
<br />
The cheeks caused a lot of consternation. Diva was the only one to say she had cooked them, so the others were improvising. After they trimmed them they ended up with a pear-shaped cut of meat about the size of a large pork chop. Trigg pan seared his with onions, and then put them in foil in his pit. Cookston braised hers in an aluminum pan in her smoker. Diva cut them into small bite sized chunks, a smart move that made them easier to chew. But the judges complained about it because they couldn't judge how tough they were. Solomon caught the worst slam of the day with his cheeks: One judge said they were "like a pencil eraser." Ouch.<br />
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Trigg says he's never injected meat and he never will. He rubbed his meats with a layer of oil before laying down his spices, an unusual method I have been recommending for years because many of the spices are oil soluble. He cooked all his meats in his large tubular <a href="http://www.jambopits.com" target="_hplink">Jambo offset wood burning pit</a> at about 250F.<br />
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Brinson cut what is called "the money muscle" off the shoulder and injected the rest with brown sugar and apple juice, but it was not clear how he handled the money muscle. He cooked at about 275F on a <a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/smokers/charcoal_smokers.html#backwoods" target="_hplink">Backwoods Smoker</a>, a big box that looks like a black refrigerator.<br />
<br />
Diva partially separated the money muscle and tied it to make sure it was tubular. She injected with phosphates, cooked at 225F on a pellet smoker which has a digital thermostat control, runs on electricity, and burns wood pellets made from sawdust. Most folks don't inject ribs, but more and more are doing it nowadays. Diva did. She cooked the ribs in her <a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/smokers/charcoal_smokers.html#onyx" target="_hplink">Onyx Oven</a>, a charcoal smoker, at 225F for a few hours to get them smoky, and then she moved it to <a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/smokers/pellet_smokers.html" target="_hplink">a pellet grill</a> to finish.<br />
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Cookston removed most of the fat from her shoulder to promote more dark bark formation. A lot of cooks leave the fat on to baste the meat with rendering fat, but bark is popular with judges (and everyone else), so I agree with her. She cooked it at 225F on her Backwoods. Her ribs cooked at 275F. I'm not sure how she cooked the two meats at different temps unless she had two cookers.<br />
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Solomon injected his shoulder with pineapple juice, apple juice, salt, sugar and he said he would cook at 225 to 235F. But then he put the ribs in the same smoker and said he would cook at 250F, so clearly these guys were not sworn to honesty. He cooked on <a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/smokers/large_capacity_restaurant_and_trailer_smokers.html" target="_hplink">either a Southern Pride or Ole Hickory</a>, a huge box that has a ferris wheel arrangement inside and enough capacity to handle a medium size restaurant.<br />
<br />
<h2>Season wrapup</h2><br />
This was a good formula for this type of cooking contest, much improved over last season. The best change was the time devoted to showing us a lot more about how these guys cook. And that was a revelation. I'm not sure folks at home should be thinking about pumping phosphates into their meats, squeezing Parkay all over them, and wrapping them in foil for much of the cooking. This is both overly fussy for backyard barbecue and a far cry from the "traditional barbecue" the judges kept speaking about. What we saw was a whole new form of barbecue, as different from traditional Southern Barbecue as is Chinese Barbecue.<br />
<br />
As a reader, Mike Bolda, commented on my Facebook page, "I am by no means a traditionalist, but I know I wouldn't let them chemicals roast on my pit. Might as well use lighter fluid to start your fire."<br />
<br />
The judges clearly knew more about this style of cooking than last year's panel, which was anchored by Myron Mixon, and had former NFL star Warren Sapp and famous chef Art Smith. Replacing the chef and jock with Tuffy Stone, a top pitmaster himself, and Aaron Franklin, owner of the hottest barbecue joint in the nation put real experts on the panel. This is both good and bad. I would like to see judges who are not holding a Platonic vision of what ribs should taste like. I would like to see judges capable of enjoying creativity, like ribs with an Asian flavor, or pork loin cubed and skewered on rice with a mushroom sauce.<br />
<br />
I also wish the judges weren't allowed to watch the cooks at work. This is far too much info for them to have to be truly blind tasters. I know they will protest that they never let knowledge of how each team cooked cloud their judgment, but it is well known in product evaluation community that a taster will use all the information available to him, consciously or unconsciously. I seriously doubt that the show was rigged, but the fact that Trigg is good friends with at least two of the judges, and they could see him at work, is enough to make me wish they had not been watching, and it should make the producers nervous too. As they say in politics, the appearance of wrong-doing is just as bad as doing wrong.<br />
<br />
I wish they had made the contestants stretch a little more. No, not the froglegs and snakes they were forced to cook last year. Yes, this year they were given turkey, ham, pork belly, pork jowls and whole chickens, not the boneless breasts they cook in competitions. But it might have been fun to see if they have a clue about rack of lamb, shrimp, salmon, steaks, even burgers. Then again, I fear that they would probably cook them all the same way they cook ribs. Alas, these folks really don't have much range.<br />
<br />
Another way they could improve is to get better Pitmasters. Although Judge Mixon said "You are all the five best Pitmasters in the country," it would be hard to make the case for this for more than 3 or 4 of the 15 cooks. None of them ranks in the top 10 standings this season or last. I know they are looking for cooks with personality, this is entertainment and there is toilet paper to be sold, but I know for a fact that many of the real top pitmasters have plenty of personality, although not all of them may be willing to brag as much as the contestants that were chosen. What they don't have is a clever audition tape. In this era of reality TV, if they remade the Wizard of Oz, Scarecrow wouldn't be asking for a brain, he'd beg for an audition tape.<br />
<br />
On the other hand, there was a broader range of cooks with more racial and gender diversity. But nobody from Kansas City?<br />
<br />
It strikes me as a shame that this year the competition is on the road in great barbecue towns (Tupelo, MS; Memphis, TN; Thomaston, GA; Dothan, AL; Salisbury, MD; and Lexington, NC), and they didn't have time to spend visiting local pitstops and showing us the wonderful regional lure and lore of barbecue. One can hope that next year, <em>Destination America</em> might live up to its name and commission an accompanying series that will take us into the local pitstops and firehouse cookouts.<br />
<br />
A piddling thing, but these shows are selling advertising and they really bend over backwards to hide all product brand names unless they pay for placement. They even covered over the brand of pineapple juice one cook used. But it would be nice to hear what brand of cookers they are using. Really, folks, Jambo, Onyx, MAK, Backwoods, etc. are not your ad prospects. They are small Mom &amp; Pop manufacturers. How about next year letting the judges tell us about their cookers? Yeah, I know I'm dreaming.<br />
<br />
Another minor bitch: sometimes things just felt a little too rehearsed, a little to scripted. This device that all reality shows love to use, where individuals sit quietly alone and talk into the camera in whole sentences explaining what is happening as if they were an invisible interlocutor floating above the scene as it is going on. We all know that by the time these cutaways are filmed, the speaker knows he has been voted off the island, but they speak as if they're still in it. I just don't buy it. It is fakey. And don't get me started on the way these shows come back after commercial by running snippets of everything that happened since the beginning. I'll bet they waste 20% of the air time on this sort of stuff.<br />
<br />
Oh yeah, one more thing? Anybody notice the sparse audience each week has the same fans? Come on. Nobody stands around and watches smoke rise for 11 hours. And who is that guy with the fu manchu and cowboy hat that appeared in the audience on every show?<br />
<br />
But really, I'm just picking nits from a very tiny head (mine?), and I clearly have no expertise in broadcasting, so no authority upon which to whine about the reality contest formula. But I do know a bit about barbecue, and I have noticed that the viewer comments here, on barbecue sites and Facebook have been generally positive. I also know that I have voiced some of these criticisms in previous critiques this season, and many of you have agreed. <br />
<br />
Regardless, the show has been fun and it has stimulated discussion. It was nice to see a grand old master beat the young bucks. I look forward to next season with a hunger to answer the burning question: Who will be the next "Kingsford Barbecue Pitmaster Grand Champion"?<br />
<br />
<h2>Previous episodes</h2><br />
Here are links to my reviews of previous episodes:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-review_b_1558872.html?ref=food" target="_hplink">Week 1: Finally, 'BBQ Pitmasters' Gets It Right</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/melissa-cookston-bbq-pitmasters_b_1566689.html" target="_hplink">Week 2: Melissa Cookston Wins 'BBQ Pitmasters' Best Show Ever</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-episode-3-_b_1585354.html" target="_hplink">Week 3: Pulling The Trigger; All According To Script; And Is This Really Blind?</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-week-4-review_b_1603610.html" target="_hplink">Week 4: Is This Traditional Barbecue?</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-week-5_b_1609326.html" target="_hplink">Week 5: Finalists Set, But Where Are The Big Guns?</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-covering-t_b_681010.html" target="_hplink">Last Season's Finals and Season Wrapup: Whole Hog Cooked Old School On Concrete Pits, a Fitting Finish with $100,000 to a Real Chef From Iowa</a><br />
<br />
<h2>Judges</h2><br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-02-pitmasters.jpg"><img alt="2012-07-02-pitmasters.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-02-pitmasters-thumb.jpg" width="600" height="399" /></a><br />
<br />
<em>The judges were, left to right:</em><br />
<br />
Tuffy Stone, past winner of BBQ Team of the Year and owner of three restaurants named Q.<br />
<br />
Myron Mixon, winner of 180 grand championships as head of the Jack's Old South team, and author of a best selling barbecue book "<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0345528530/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amazi0a8-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=0345528530" target="_hplink">Smokin' with Myron Mixon</a>".<br />
<br />
Aaron Franklin, owner of <a href="http://franklinbarbecue.com/" target="_hplink">Franklin Barbecue</a> in Austin, called the best in the nation by <em>Bon Appetit</em> magazine.<br />
<br />
Judges scored each sample on a 10 point scale, on appearance, tenderness and taste. Scores were weighted with 20% for appearance, 30% for tenderness and 50% for taste.<br />
<br />
<h2>Related links</h2><br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/porknography/best_BBQ_ribs_ever.html" target="_hplink">Recipe for Last Meal Ribs</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/porknography/perfect_pulled_pork.html" target="_hplink">Perfect Pulled Pork</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/meat_temperature_guide.html" target="_hplink">Meat temperature chart</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/BBQ_articles/barbecue_competition-1.html" target="_hplink">Behind the scenes at a barbecue competition</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/links/barbecue_competitions_and_associations.html" target="_hplink">Barbecue associations that sponsor or sanction contests</a><br />
<br />
<h2>Have you ever seen a barbecue competition up close? What did you think?</h2><br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>All text is Copyright (c) 2012 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved. For more of Meathead's writing, photos, recipes and barbecue info please <a href="http://AmazingRibs.com" target="_hplink">visit his website AmazingRibs.com</a> and subscribe to his email newsletter, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/smoke_signals_newsletter/index.html" target="_hplink">Smoke Signals</a>.</strong><br><br><strong>Friend Meathead on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs" target="_hplink">http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs</a></strong>]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/670453/thumbs/s-BBQ-PITMASTERS-FINALE-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Hamburger Secrets: How The Zen Master Prepares A Real Happy Meal</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/hamburger-secrets_b_1643861.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1643861</id>
    <published>2012-07-02T13:32:57-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-09-01T05:12:12-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA["Give a man a burger and he will gladly pay you Tuesday. Teach a man to make a burger and he will feed his family as if every day is Sunday." -- Meathead]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Meathead</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/"><![CDATA[<em><strong>"Give a man a burger and he will gladly pay you Tuesday. Teach a man to make a burger and he will feed his family as if every day is Sunday."</strong> Meathead</em><br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-02-double_cheeseburgers.jpg"><img alt="2012-07-02-double_cheeseburgers.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-02-double_cheeseburgers-thumb.jpg" width="600" height="293" /></a><br />
<br />
Close your eyes and think of the best hamburger you've ever had. In a restaurant, right? Let's fix this. Let's all go from Grasshopper to Burger Zen Master.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-02-rare_burger.jpg"><img alt="2012-07-02-rare_burger.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-02-rare_burger-thumb.jpg" width="400" height="186" align="right" style="float: right; margin:10px"></a>Let me guess what is in your memory: You needed two hands and two napkins. The toasty charry beefy scent wafted to your nose as it was escorted to your table. The perfume told your mouth to start the lube moving the moment the plate became visible. It almost smelled burnt, but it was not. As you lifted the top of the bun to add ketchup, you saw that the patty had a mahogany skin and the bun was wet with dark juices that looked like Suwannee River. It was crunchy when your teeth pierced it. The warm, salty juices flowed over your tongue followed closely by an assertively deep prime steak flavor, like a steakhouse steak framed by the irresistible bracing flavor of roasted beef fat. The bun was warm, buttery and crispy on the inside, and condiments amped up the experience, but you really can't remember them. It was the succulent brawny beef that sticks in your mind. The experience ended, reluctantly, with licking the juice off your elbows.<br />
<br />
<table width="250" align="right"><tr><td class="block" bgcolor="#ffffdd"><div style="border: 1px solid #000000; padding: 10px;"><br />
<h2>More burger links</h2><br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/hamburgers/zen_of_hamburger_buns.html" target="_hplink">The Zen of Hamburger Buns</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/hamburgers/hamburger_secret_sauce_and_condiments.html" target="_hplink">The Zen of Burger Sauces, Condiments, Toppings &amp; Bottomings</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/hamburgers/zen_of_cheeseburgers.html" target="_hplink">The Zen of Cheeseburgers</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/hamburgers/new_mexico_green_chile_cheeseburgers.html" target="_hplink">New Mexico Green Chile Cheeseburgers</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/hamburgers/grinding_your_own_hamburger.html" target="_hplink">Grinding Your Own Burgers</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/hamburgers/steakhouse_burgers.html" target="_hplink">Steakhouse Steakburgers</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/hamburgers/diner_burgers.html" target="_hplink">The Zen of Diner Burgers</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/lamb/lamburgers.html" target="_hplink">Mary's Little Lamburgers</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/porknography/mu_shu_pork_burgers.html" target="_hplink">Mu Shu Pork Burgers</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/my_ingredients/zen_of_ketchup.html" target="_hplink">The Zen of Ketchup</a><br><br />
</div></td></tr></table>My Platonic Image of the perfect burger is <a href="http://www.glenwoodpines.com/new/sandwiches.htm" target="_hplink">the Pinesburger from the Glenwood Pines in Ithaca, NY</a>, circa 1980, a complete, well-rounded meal with carbs (Frenchbread bun), veggies (lettuce, tomato, onions), dairy (American cheese) and protein (the 6 ounce patty of fresh ground chuck, 85% lean), accented by 1000 island dressing. The Pines is under new ownership, but I am told the Pinesburger is still a winner for only $5.25. Recently I have fallen in love with Chef Rick Gresh's burgers at <a href="http://www.davidburke.com/restaurant_primehouse.html" target="_hplink">David Burke's Primehouse in Chicago</a>. They're made from trimmings from their aged steaks. They even sell ground meat to take home if you want. I've done it several times (just don't tell my wife, she thinks I know what I'm doing).<br />
<br />
So what are the secrets of a Zen Master's Burger? Finding out has taken me a whole year, a longer odyssey than any other cooking technique I've tried to conquer on your behalf. Whooda thunk the humble burger was such a pain?<br />
<br />
Don't expect perfection the first time you try my methods, but do expect improvement. You'll get closer each time you do it. By the third attempt you should have everyone's attention.<br />
<br />
Remember, in any form of experiment, you must set up a repeatable system in which you can change only one variable at a time. If you make your first batch on a charcoal grill, don't switch to a cast iron griddle and change the meat blend at the same time. One variable at a time.<br />
<br />
Soon you'll know what the restaurants and I know: You'll know the gestalt of the Zen Master's Burger and be well on your way to making your home a hamburger heaven.<br />
<br />
Begin by throwing out all your preconceived notions about cooking burgers.<br />
<br />
<h2>Never buy "hamburger" or "ground beef" for burgers</h2><br />
<br />
<strong>Never ever ever nohow noway buy something labeled "hamburger" or "ground beef" for burgers. </strong>Nobody knows what's in it! Technically the difference is that, if the meat is packed at a USDA inspected plant, "hamburger" can have fat scraps added and "ground beef" cannot. But the USDA inspects only meat that crosses state lines, so if it is ground by your grocer, practically any muscle can be in there. Butchers toss trimmings from any old cut in there, and much of the stuff in preformed patties comes from old bulls and no longer productive dairy cows, not known for the tastiest meat.<br />
<br />
A maximum of 30% fat by weight is allowed in either hamburger or ground beef and both may have seasonings, but no water, phosphates, extenders or binders added.<br />
<br />
Much hamburger and ground beef comes from processing plants many miles away and if it is not frozen, it can be several days old when you buy it.<br />
<br />
<strong>Here's the kicker:</strong> Much of this dreck has been treated with ammonia to kill microbes, and the result is called pink slime. Yet the ammonia does not have to be listed as an ingredient.<br />
<br />
Keep in mind that your grocer and butcher may grind and package their own meat at a central warehouse or in the store, and their facilities are not USDA inspected unless they ship across state lines. The fat content laws, however, apply to all grinders.<br />
<br />
<h2>Buying beef pre-ground at the grocery</h2><br />
<br />
<strong>Hamburger or Ground Beef</strong> can legally come from practically any muscle on the animal. You know the old joke about "lips and sphincters?" You got it. They usually contain up to 30% fat, may include seasonings and flavor additives, may be treated with ammonia (yes, ammonia), may be frozen and then defrosted. Don't buy it.<br />
<br />
<strong>Ground Chuck</strong> comes from the shoulder and usually ranges from 15 to 20% fat. It has good flavor and texture, especially if freshly ground.<br />
<br />
<strong>Ground Round</strong> comes from the rump and usually runs 10 to 15% fat. It can be dry and tough, but has a nice beefy flavor.<br />
<br />
<strong>Ground Sirloin</strong> comes from the area just in front of the hip, and is usually about 5 to 10% fat. Tends to be dry because it is so low in fat. Can be pricey.<br />
<br />
Remember, you can always ask your butcher to custom grind steaks for you and you can even ask for some ground fat on the side to blend in. If you ask for the butcher to grind in extra fat, you will pay the same price as the meat. My butcher gives me ground fat on the side for free, and I mix it myself.<br />
<br />
<h2>Buy meat and have your butcher grind it for you</h2><br />
<br />
Whenever possible you should ask your butcher to grind your meat while you wait. You pick the steak, and she grinds it.<br />
<br />
Pre-ground meat, even some of the better cuts of pre-ground meat, such as ground chuck, may have been ground miles away and days ago. Once meat is ground, it begins to oxidize, and the longer it sits, the larger the microbial colony becomes. Ground meat labeled "hamburger" is higher risk because it is made from trimmings and scrap.<br />
<br />
If you want to buy ground meat, try to buy it at a store with a butcher in the back room who can grind for you. In grocery stores, butchers usually come in early in the morning, and leave before 5 p.m. They are probably not on duty on Sunday. Find out when your butchers are in, and get to know them by name. Ask them to grind meat for you.<br />
<br />
You want at least 20% fat, not 15% as called for in many cookbooks and online recipes. Many top chefs now recommend 20 to 30% fat, especially if you cook the meat to USDA recommended safe temps of 160&deg;F. That's right, you do not want a lean burger because fat brings a lot of flavor, moisture, and crispness to the party, and it helps hold the patty together. Face it, burgers are not diet food so we can't eat them every day. But when we do crave one we want a good one, and that means at least 20 to 30% fat.<br />
<br />
The easiest thing to do is pick a nice looking "choice" grade chuck, with plenty of fat, and if necessary, ask the butcher to add some fresh white fat trimmings to get the blend up to 20 to 30%. Go ahead. Get it 30%. Especially if you plan to cook it til it is safe. Just don't tell your cardiologist.<br />
<br />
Ask for a coarse grind, using the 1/4" holes, only once through the grinder, and ask for it to be packaged loosely. Many butchers grind beef fine or grind it twice. Not for you. It should come out looking like thick wavy spaghetti. Coarser grinds and looser pack make for an uneven surface plus air pockets inside, and that's good.<br />
<br />
If you can't get your meat ground to order, buy pre-ground chuck which is usually about 15 to 20% fat. Ground round is usually about 10 to 15% fat. If you buy ground sirloin, you are getting only about 5 to 10% fat. Alas, these are not precise standards. The fat content can vary from one store to another, from one steer to another.<br />
<br />
While you're at it, ask for some suet (beef fat) to freeze and mix in the next time your meat is too lean. I have never been charged for it. Your butcher may even grind it for you. If not, you can grind it easily in a food processor. Don't get just any fat. You want fresh white fat, not yellow fat. I've been known to freeze fat trimmed from my briskets and add it to my burger grind. Wrap it tightly in plastic first, and don't keep it for more than 60 days or it can start to taste funky. You can also use suet to coat your griddle or pan if you are making <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/hamburgers/diner_burgers.html" target="_hplink">Diner Burgers</a>.<br />
<br />
<h2>Better still, grind your own</h2><br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-02-grinding_beef.jpg"><img alt="2012-07-02-grinding_beef.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-02-grinding_beef-thumb.jpg" width="275" height="242" align="right" style="float: right; margin:10px"></a>The best way to control quality is to grind your own hamburgers. That way you can select the exact cut from the counter, control the fat to lean ratio, get the freshest meat, reduce oxidation and even reduce risk. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/hamburgers/grinding_your_own_hamburger.html" target="_hplink">Click here for my article on grinding your own hamburger meat. It's easier than you think.</a><br />
<br />
While you're at it, if you have lean steaks, add finely chopped raw bacon into the blend. Select the fattiest strips. This is an amazingly effective trick, and bacon brings flavor and salt. That's why we love bacon on top of our burgers.<br />
<br />
<h2>The best cuts and grades for grinding</h2><br />
<br />
Don't waste money on the tenderest steak cuts from along the back of the steer: Ribeye, filet, or strip. The grinding process will make tough cuts tender. The Hamburger Zen Master wants inexpensive meat that has great beefy flavor like short ribs (side), chuck (shoulder), flank steak (belly), skirt steak (mid-chest), sirloin (hip), hanger steak (diaphragm), or brisket (front-chest).<br />
<br />
Vogue Magazine's esteemed food writer Jeffrey Steingarten reports that most of New York City's best burgers are a blend of chuck and brisket, with some chefs adding hanger steak or short rib meat. His personal house blend is two parts chuck, two parts short rib, and one part brisket. That seems like a lot of trouble to me.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-07-02-flanken2.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-02-flanken2.jpg" width="350" height="124" align="right" /><strong>Short ribs.</strong> This is my favorite cut of meat for hamburger, tastewise. It packs good steak flavor, and, even though it is a tough cut of meat, if ground and cooked properly, it can produce excellent burgers. My favorite burgers are 100% shorties. But this is a more expensive cut than chuck (below) unless you can catch it on sale.<br />
<br />
Short ribs come from the short plate, from the side of the steer, and are usually heavily marbled with 20 to 30% fat. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/beef/zen_of_beef_ribs.html" target="_hplink">Read my article on The Zen of Beef Ribs</a>. Most of the time they come with a bone attached, so you'll have to cut it off and save the bones for soup or stock. Sometimes you can get them boneless. First you have to cut the top layer of fat off because there's a tough "silverskin" below it most of the time. You want to see meat on the top. Then you cut it off the bone. There's a leathery cartilage between the meat and bone, so leave it behind. Bone in, there's about 50% waste after you cut the meat off the bones and discard the silverskin. But you can simmer the bones with carrots, celery, and onion to <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/my_ingredients/zen_of_stock_gravy_bouillon.html" target="_hplink">make a nice beef stock</a>. I have had problems grinding short ribs in my Kitchen Aid because there is some gristle that clogs the plate, so I often ask my butcher to grind it with her heavy duty grinder.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-07-02-chuck_eye_sm.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-02-chuck_eye_sm-thumb.jpg" width="375" height="228" align="right" style="float: right; margin:10px"><strong>Chuck.</strong> This is the cut most of the top burger joints use. Chuck steaks come from the shoulder. You can get either boneless or bone in, it doesn't matter. But get chuck steaks not chuck roast. Chuck roast has too much sinew, and if you try to grind it yourself the leathery sinew will just clog the grinder. Look for steaks that have, to your eyeball, 20 to 30% fat. That's an 8 ounce chuck eye steak below at $3.99 a pound. Chuckeye is cut from the part of the shoulder just in front of the ribeye (they are pretty tasty grilled at a much lower price than ribeye, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/beef/drunk_chuck_steak.html" target="_hplink">but that's another article</a>).<br />
<br />
<strong>Flank, skirt, hanger and sirloin.</strong> These are really beefy tasting cuts, but they are lean. So I often ask for extra white fat from the butcher or blend bacon fat into the patties.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-07-02-brisket_end_view.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-02-brisket_end_view.jpg" width="250" height="133" align="right" /><strong>Brisket.</strong> Brisket has a big hearty flavor. There are two parts of the brisket (<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/beef/texas_brisket.html" target="_hplink">described in detail in my article on Texas Brisket</a>). The "point" cut of brisket has about the right fat to lean ratio for burgers, and a lot more fat on top of it. You'll need to trim the fat cap off to get to the right ratio. The "flat" cut of brisket is a slab of lean meat with a 1/4" or so thick fat cap on top. Because the fat and lean are easy to separate, you can measure and blend the ratio you want fairly accurately.<br />
<br />
<strong>The bottom line.</strong> The esteemed cookbook author <a href="http://ruhlman.com/" target="_hplink">Michael Ruhlman </a>says the cut is not as critical as the ratio of beef to fat. "Beef is beef and, unlike pork, beef tastes like beef no matter where it comes from on the animal. I know people will disagree. I believe the only critical ratio is the meat to fat, so I buy a nice fatty relatively inexpensive chuck steak, and that gives me a great burger every time. Short ribs will give you a great burger as well. So will sirloin and brisket if you've got the right amount of fat."<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-02-angustriangle.jpg"><img alt="2012-07-02-angustriangle.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-02-angustriangle-thumb.jpg" width="375" height="251" align="right" /></a><a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/beef/zen_of_beef_grades.html" target="_hplink">Go for USDA Choice grade beef</a>, not the more expensive prime grade, the fabulously expensive kobe or wagyu. Expensive cuts are so dear because they have more fat between the muscles than choice beef. But you can add fat to ground meat, so why spend much much more on prime, kobe or wagyu? Certified Angus is at least choice in grade, so even though it is slightly more, it is a good choice.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h2>Mix-ins</h2><br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-07-02-flays_book.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-02-flays_book.jpg" width="195" height="220" align="right" style="float: right; margin:10px">There is a raging controversy over the wisdom of mixing ingredients into the patty. On one side, there's FoodNetwork's Bobby Flay, author of the cookbook <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0307460630?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amazi0a8-20&amp;link_code=as3&amp;camp=211189&amp;creative=373489&amp;creativeASIN=0307460630" target="_hplink">Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries &amp; Shakes</a>, and owner of nine restaurants, among them three locations of Bobby's Burger Palace. He's a minimalist. His patties are nothing but chuck, and he sprinkles salt and pepper on the exterior just before cooking. He once told me "I don't put anything in my burgers like onion, eggs, breadcrumbs, anything. That's meatloaf." And that's harsh!<br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-07-02-mcnair_book.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-07-02-mcnair_book.jpg" width="195" height="225" align="left" style="float: left; margin:10px">On the other side is James McNair. Nobody has tasted more burgers than McNair, Honorary Chairman and Head Judge of <a href="http://www.buildabetterburger.com/" target="_hplink">Sutter Home Winery's Build a Better Burger Contest</a>, founded in 1990, and by far the biggest and most important burger competition in the world, with $50,000 prize going to the best beef burger, and $10,000 to the best "alternative" burger (pork, salmon, turkey, etc.). McNair is also the author of two books on burgers that are still available, Build A Better Burger: Celebrating Sutter Home's Annual Search for America's Best Burgers, and his most recent, co-authored by Jeffrey Starr, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/158008110X?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amazi0a8-20&amp;link_code=as3&amp;camp=211189&amp;creative=373489&amp;creativeASIN=158008110X" target="_hplink">Burger Parties: Recipes from Sutter Home Winery's Build a Better Burger Contest</a>. He told me "To incorporate flavor into every bite, thoroughly mix seasonings into the ground ingredients. Contrary to popular culinary myth, salting ground meat a few minutes before cooking will not draw out the moisture and create a dry burger. For our tastes, one teaspoon of kosher or coarse sea salt to every pound of meat is a perfect ratio, but if you're adding other salty components, reduce the amount of salt you use."<br />
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McNair's assertion is contested by <a href="http://www.seriouseats.com/user/profile/GoodEaterKenji" target="_hplink">J. Kenji Lopez-Alt</a>, a former chef and Associate Editor at <a href="http://www.cooksillustrated.com/" target="_hplink">Cooks Illustrated</a> and now an editor at SeriousEats.com. In a <a href="http://aht.seriouseats.com/archives/2009/12/the-burger-lab-salting-ground-beef.html" target="_hplink">noteworthy experiment</a>, well-designed and documented in the MIT grad's "Burger Lab", he tested salting patties internally and externally and came to the conclusion that external is better. He demonstrates that salt makes the meat mushy. Now he just sprinkles salt liberally on the surface just before cooking. Me too. I believe in Kenji.<br />
<br />
But there should be no rules in the dining room or the kitchen, so I say there's room in the firmament for what I call the Homestyle Burger. It's the burger Granny made, with chopped onions, peppers, and more. Watch for my recipe.<br />
<br />
<h2>Meathead's Mix-ins</h2><br />
<br />
I'm partial to one of two styles, the <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/hamburgers/steakhouse_burgers.html" target="_hplink">Steakhouse Steakburger</a> or the <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/hamburgers/diner_burgers.html" target="_hplink">Diner Burger</a>, so I usually mix freshly ground black pepper, onion powder, and garlic powder together, and sprinkle it evenly on the ground meat before forming the patties. I mix in the seasonings because they just burn and get bitter when sprinkled on the surface. But I do salt the surface liberally just before cooking or while on the grill. Occasionally, if I want to do something wild and crazy, I sprinkle some of <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/rubs_pastes_marinades_and_brines/cow_crust.html" target="_hplink">my Cow Crust spice blend</a> in the mix (click the link for the recipe). But I never add salt.<br />
<br />
If the meat is a bit too lean, mix in some finely chopped, uncooked fatty bacon. Avoid adding wet ingredients like wine, Worcestershire sauce, etc. They require you to work the meat hard to mix them in, and they can retard browning of the surface.<br />
<br />
<strong>Ingredients</strong><br />
1 pound ground steak, 20 to 30% fat<br />
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper<br />
1/4 teaspoon onion powder<br />
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder (not garlic salt)<br />
<br />
<strong>Do this</strong><br />
For Steakhouse Steakburgers, put the meat in a bowl, sprinkle in some of the spice mix and stir it with a fork to keep it fluffy. For Diner Burgers, you can mix them by hand and pack them tight.<br />
<br />
<h2>Forming the patties</h2><br />
<br />
Learn to make uniform sized burgers every time so you can get a sense for how long it takes to cook them properly. Do not use cold water on your hands as is popularly advised. We don't want wet meat which can also retard crisping.<br />
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Steakhouse Steakburgers go 6 to 8 ounces each and pack them loosely with your hands so there are pockets to hold the juices. Make them 1/2 to 3/4" thick. It has become fashionable to make indentations in burgers on the theory that they will puff out. I don't bother. There's no harm in a little bulge. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/hamburgers/steakhouse_burgers.html" target="_hplink">Click this link for specifics about Steakhouse Steakburgers</a>.<br />
<br />
Diner Burgers, which are cooked on a griddle or in a pan for maximum surface browning, you need thinner burgers, and to keep them from falling apart, you need to pack them a bit tighter. Make 4 ounce balls and chill them in the fridge for 20 minutes or more. The cold center will help keep them from overcooking. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/hamburgers/diner_burgers.html" target="_hplink">Click this link for specifics about Diner Burgers</a>.<br />
<br />
If you wish, you can use an ice cream scoop. They have numbers on them. A #8 holds 4 ounces (a quarter pounder, just right for a Diner Burger). Two scoops and you've got a Steakhouse Steakburger.<br />
<br />
<h2>Key concepts of cooking hamburgers</h2><br />
<br />
The way to get your burgers done properly is the same way you get to Carnegie Hall: Practice. Practice. Practice. You may have to experiment three or four times to perfect your technique. But you'll get it, and then all who know you will prostrate themselves in your path.<br />
<br />
The secret to any experiment is to change only one variable at a time and <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/cooking_log.html" target="_hplink">take notes or keep a cooking log</a>. For example, if you are cooking with charcoal, count the briquets so you can use the same amount every time. If you are using gas, use the same settings every time. But remember, wind and air temp will influence the cooking. If you cook in a frying pan, use the same pan every time. A black cast iron pan will produce different results than a shiny stainless steel pan. If you oil the pan with beef fat, do the same thing every time. Butter and cooking oil have different heating and flavor characteristics.<br />
<br />
Most importantly, at the experimental stage, never vary the thickness of your burger or the temp at which you cook it. Then you will get a sense for how long it takes to get it done properly, and you can learn the color of the outside and the feel of the meat that tells you when the inside is ready. As you approach perfection, you can fine tune cooking temp and thickness.<br />
<br />
To achieve Burger Zen Master status, you must understand the concepts covered in my articles on <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/thermodynamics_of_cooking.html" target="_hplink">meat science</a> and <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/thermodynamics_of_cooking.html" target="_hplink">thermodynamics of cooking</a>. A short recap of germane points:<br />
<br />
The perfect burger has two parts, the exterior and the interior. You want the exterior as dark as possible, but not black, and you want the interior juicy and safe. You want beefy flavor unmasked by condiments and mix-ins.<br />
<br />
The exterior. The surface is significantly impacted by the cooking method. If the meat is cooked on a hot griddle, as it is in most diners, the surface is in direct contact with the heat and it cooks by conduction, browning evenly across the surface. If it is cooked on a grill, most of the meat cooks by radiant heat. The small amount of surface where the meat is in contact with the grates cooks by conduction.<br />
<br />
First, generously season the exterior with salt just before cooking. Then spread a thin layer of oil on the exterior. If you oil the patty you make it harder for moisture to escape, plus the oil transmits heat faster to the meat, so you don't need to oil the griddle, pan, or grates. Fat helps the <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/cooking_glossary.html#maillard" target="_hplink">Maillard reaction</a> and <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/cooking_glossary.html#caramelization" target="_hplink">caramelization</a>, two chemical changes that create dark brown color, crunchy texture and a deeper, richer, sweeter flavor.<br />
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The interior. The center of the burger doesn't care much about which method of cooking you use because it cooks by heat conducted from the exterior. As the surface gets hot, moisture and fats transfer the heat like a bucket brigade from the outside in. You cannot tell by the color of ground meat if it is cooked safely. Some burger interiors turn brown as low as 130&deg;F, so a brown burger can still be rare.<br />
<br />
<h2>Size matters</h2><br />
<br />
There are two very different cooking methods depending on whether you are doing thick Steakhouse Steakburgers or thin Diner Burgers. For details, read my articles on Steakhouse Steakburgers and Diner Burgers.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h2>What are your burger secrets?</h2><br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>All text and some photos are Copyright (c) 2012 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved. For more of Meathead's writing, photos, recipes and barbecue info please <a href="http://AmazingRibs.com" target="_hplink">visit his website AmazingRibs.com</a> and subscribe to his email newsletter, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/smoke_signals_newsletter/index.html" target="_hplink">Smoke Signals</a>.</strong><br><br><strong>Friend Meathead on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs" target="_hplink">http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs</a></strong>]]></content>
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</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Debunking Beer Can Chicken: A Waste Of Good Beer (And It Is Dangerous)</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/beer-can-chicken_b_1634001.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1634001</id>
    <published>2012-06-28T18:27:37-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-08-31T10:48:31-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Think about this: You've never seen a fine dining restaurant serve Beer Can Chicken, have you? That's because real chefs know it is not the best way to roast a chicken.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Meathead</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/"><![CDATA[<strong><em>"I think Beer Can Chicken is a religion. We need a little separation of faith and science here." Sterling Ball, <a href="http://BigPoppaSmokers.com" target="_hplink">BigPoppaSmokers.com</a></em></strong><br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-28-beer_can_chicken.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-28-beer_can_chicken.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-28-beer_can_chicken-thumb.jpg" width="400" height="318" align="right" style="float: right; margin:10px"></a>Think about this: You've never seen a fine dining restaurant serve Beer Can Chicken, have you? That's because real chefs know it is not the best way to roast a chicken.<br />
<br />
Yes, I know Beer Can Chicken tastes wonderful. Yes, I know your neighbors and family think your Beer Can Chicken is fabulous. <em><u>It is fabulous</u></em>. What's not to love about roast chicken? Yes, I know there are millions of devotees and some bars and BBQ joints serve it.<br />
<br />
Yes, I know there are two books on to the subject, a blog, and scores of gadgets to assist the process. Yes, with the fowl perched comically on its legs seemingly guzzling brew through its posterior, Beer Can Chicken is a showstopper. The two beauties at right were cooked by <a href="http://snavarrephotography.smugmug.com/Photography" target="_hplink">Steve Navarre</a>, a loyal reader, good cook and fine photographer.<br />
<br />
<strong>But Beer Butt Bird remains a gimmick and a waste of good beer.</strong><br />
<br />
To prove it you have to taste a Beer Can Chicken side by side with one of the better methods I recommend later in this article. If you are unwilling to do that, then please don't tell me how stoopid I am in the comments below. Unless you do a blind taste test, <em>gallus a gallus</em>, you cannot pronounce one method superior. But you can do a pre-tasting in your head if you just think about the logic laid out for you below.<br />
<br />
<blockquote><strong>Tellingly, the weight of the beer can afterwards, on a very sensitive scale, is unchanged. This may sound shocking, but in a slow rise from room temp to 165&deg;F, not much beer evaporates, and that means very few flavor molecules.</strong></blockquote><br />
<br />
<h2>First, let's look at what beer can chicken gets right</h2><br />
<img alt="2012-06-28-turkeybreastcolor.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-28-turkeybreastcolor.jpg" width="473" height="399" align="right" style="float: right; margin:10px">1) <strong>Crackly skin</strong>. Beer Can Chicken exposes the exterior to even convection heat so it can crisp the skin on all sides. Do it right and you'll always have crunchy, crackly, tasty skin. If you bake a chicken horizontally in a standard roasting pan, the bottom doesn't brown and often gets soggy. Even if you raise it up on a rack, the air does not circulate under the bird properly unless the rack is well above the pan, as it is on a grill.<br />
<br />
2) <strong>Even exterior browning. </strong>Beer Can Chicken doesn't tie the legs together as is done in French roast chicken recipes, so the crotch area can brown properly and the dark meat can be exposed to more heat and finish a bit hotter than the thicker breasts. Chicken and turkey must be cooked to 165&deg;F in order to kill salmonella. But if you go above 165&deg;F you can kill the moisture. So breasts should be removed at about 160&deg;F and they will then rise to 165&deg;F when resting. Dark meat is best in the 170 to 180&deg;F range, depending on your preferences. Vertical roasting lets the dark meat heat faster than the breasts.<br />
<br />
<h2>Now let's look at the many things beer can chicken does wrong</h2><br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-28-beer_can_cut.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-28-beer_can_cut.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-28-beer_can_cut-thumb.jpg" width="400" height="522" align="right" style="float: right; margin:10px"></a>1) <strong>All the heat comes from the outside</strong>. The thoracic cavity of the bird, where its guts and lungs were, narrows almost to a close at the top. On a typical 3 to 4 pound bird, a 12 ounce can will go all the way up the cavity and rest its shoulders just under the bird's shoulders. In other words, all but a little part of the cavity is filled by the can. There is a much smaller cavity where the neck was, and it connects to the lower cavity with a smaller hole. With a metal cylinder up its butt, warm air cannot enter the cavity from below, and only the tiniest amount imaginable can enter from above. The can effectively prevents the chicken from cooking on the inside. All the heat must enter the meat from the outside. Because meat doesn't heat evenly, it progresses inward from the part in contact with air, the outer parts are warmer than the inner parts. By the time the meat nearest the cavity hits 165&deg;F the outer layers are in the 180 to 190&deg;F range. That may darken and crisp the skin a bit more, but it makes the outer layers drier.<br />
<br />
Take away the can and heat enters the cavity and warms the inside of the meat so heat is working its way to the center of the muscles from both sides. This way neither surface gets far overcooked. <strong>Remember, air cooks the outside of the meat, but the outside of the meat cooks the inside of the meat.</strong> The more meat the heat has to travel through, the more the outer layer gets overcooked. So cooking both sides insures the outer layers are not as hot and not as dry.<br />
<br />
2) <strong>It only browns on the outside.</strong> We love the flavor of browned meats. Browning happens when the amino acids and sugars in meat are heated past a certain point. It is called the <em><a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/cooking_glossary.html#maillard" target="_hplink">maillard reaction</a></em> and it is the reason we love seared steaks, toasted bread, roasted coffee and crispy chicken skin. By inserting a metal tube filled with liquid you prevent the inside of the chicken from browning, so you get less of the stuff we love best. But the methods I recommend will get you browned chicken all over, inside and out.<br />
<br />
Worse, if you cook it at 325&deg;F on the indirect side of the grill, it is hard to get the skin brown and crisp unless you include sugar in the rub, and personally, I just don't think roast chicken is at its best when sweetened. I think roast chicken is best savory, with an herbal rub.<br />
<br />
3) <strong>No way the beer boils. </strong>As you cook, both the meat, which is 70% water, and the beer, which is 90% water, heat at about the same rate. When you are done cooking, when the meat hits 165&deg;F, the beer will also be about 165&deg;F, well below the boiling point of water which is 212&deg;F. Now some of the beer at the bottom of the can may be hotter, but the cooler beer above will mix with it via convection, so there is no way it will come close to the boiling point. There is still some evaporation from the beer at that low temp, but very very little. So, hardly any moisture escapes the can. So how can it moisturize the meat ? And anyone who says it crisps the skin, which is separated from the can by at least 1" of meat really has been smoking more than chicken.<br />
<br />
4) <strong>No way the beer adds moisture.</strong> The method is supposed to add moisture to the meat. But the can is inserted half way up the cavity, so any vapor that escapes the top of the can, and there isn't much, will only come in contact with the upper half of the cavity. The surface area of the exterior of the bird is vastly greater than the surface area of the cavity, and after blocking off half the cavity with the can, there is very little surface area for flavor to penetrate.<br />
<br />
5) <strong>No way the beer adds flavor.</strong> According to <a href="http://www.analysislaboratory.com/" target="_hplink">Scott Bruslind, Laboratory Manager at Analysis Laboratory</a>, on average, 92% percent of beer is flavorless water and 5% is flavorless alcohol. All the flavor compounds are at most 3.5% of the weight: 1 to 2.5% sugars with 0.5 to 1% a mix of proteins, minerals, small chain organic acids and esters, aldehydes and ketones, which are a mix of acids and alcohols. Finally, 0.25% of the beer is carbon dioxide under pressure to make it bubble.<br />
<br />
In other words, in a 12 ounce can of beer, there is about 1 teaspoon of stuff with flavor, even in big dark beers like stout the flavor compounds are a very small part of the brew. Since less than 1% of the beer evaporates during cookingthis is pretty close to nothing. (see the data from research by AmazingRibs.com's science advisor, Dr. Greg Blonder, below). In other words, it is impossible for the beer to flavor the meat in any detectable way.<br />
<br />
Alcohol boils at about 170&deg;F, so there may be some alcohol evaporation, but alcohol vapors are not likely to play a role if you remove the chicken at 165&deg;F and even if you overcook, that 5% of ethanol is not going to have much of an impact on flavor. Yes, you can smell beer while it is cooking, but the smell is not much stronger than a beer sitting around at room temp, and that smell is the result of immeasurably small parts per billion of the aromatics. And if the beer is steaming, that means it is at or near 212&deg;F, and that means you chicken is at or near 212&deg;F and it is waaaay overcooked.<br />
<br />
And no, it won't make any difference if you use soft drinks or other beverages. None of them will evaporate any faster or contribute any more flavor.<br />
<br />
6) <strong>Add herbs and spices to the meat, not the beer</strong>. John Kass of, a political columnist for The Chicago Tribune <a href="http://www.chicagotribune.com/news/columnists/chi-kass-01-jul01,0,7473491.column" target="_hplink">raves about beer can chicken</a>. He says you need to put a "hoofta" or two of spices and herbs in the can, the hoofta being a Greek measurement of undetermined quantities, perhaps a handful. The problem is that most of the compounds in herbs and spices don't dissolve in water, but they do in oil and alcohol. But there is not much alcohol in beer. Even then, only a few molecules will escape the can, and most go right out the top.<br />
<br />
So what happens if you stuff an onion or lemon in the top? Can you trap more of the beer and herb flavor? You might get a few more molecules of flavor to alight on the meat, but stuffing the vent creates a pressurized area between the can and the blockage, and that will hamper the evaporation of the beer. You want flavor? Paint the cavity with oil and put a hoofta of spice rub in there and let it toast in the warm air without the can.<br />
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7) <strong>No way a few flavor molecules could penetrate more that a tiny section of meat</strong>. Let's say that you use a really high alcohol, dark, flavorful beer like Guinness Stout. Let's say you rub the cavity with a hoofta herbs and spices and salt. Let's say you add a couple more hooftas to the beer and you stick an onion in the neck opening. There is still no way under the heavens that flavor can travel more than a fraction of an inch beyond the surface of the area between the can and the onion. It is against the laws of physics, chemistry and culinary science.<br />
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8) <strong>The whole process can be dangerous</strong>:<br />
<br />
<ul><li>If you forget to open the can, it can explode.</li><br />
<li>Some beer can holders use a shallow drip pan that can fill with hot fat. Spill this onto your legs and you'll need an ambulance.</li><br />
<li>I've even heard of the drip pan catching on fire and destroying the chicken.</li><br />
<li>Spill it onto the flame and for sure you have a chicken crematorium. </li><br />
<li>If you use just a plain old beer can, no fancy gadget, getting the the bird and attached can off the grill is tricky. How do you grab it, by the can or by the bird? With what?</li><br />
<li>The can tends to stick to the chicken during cooking, and hot grease can build up on the top of the can if you haven't removed it completely. But worst of all, removing the can can be really tricky, and if it jerks out you can find yourself covered in hot beer and scalding grease.</li><br />
<li>You must take the meat temp close to the ribs not in the center of the breast because the coldest part is down by the cavity.</li><br />
<li>Some beers, like Guinness Stout, have a "widget", a plastic ball in the can that helps release the CO2 in the beer and who knows what it is made of and how it will behave when heated.</li><br />
<li>Finally, the ink on the outside of the can may not be food grade and might get into the meat and I sincerely doubt that brewers test the plastic liners inside the can at cooking temperatures. I asked the nice folks at Anheuser-Busch, maker of Budweiser and other popular beers. They said "There are many recipes that cooks have been passing around for years that use beer to flavor chicken, and some of them suggest using an actual can of beer in the cooking process. While many people swear by these methods, and apparently produce some delicious results, it's not one we endorse or recommend, since we don't design our cans for this purpose. We do, however, recommend many recipes using beer and for cooks to be creative with beer in many other dishes as well."</li></ul><br />
<br />
<em>How'd you like some plastic in your hoofta?</em><br />
<br />
<h2>The proof is in the cooking</h2><br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-28-ConventionalRoastChicken.JPG"><img alt="2012-06-28-ConventionalRoastChicken.JPG" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-28-ConventionalRoastChicken-thumb.JPG" width="400" height="320" align="right" style="float: right; margin:10px"></a>So I asked <a href="http://amazingribs.com/meathead/thanks.html#blonder" target="_hplink">the AmazingRibs.com science advisor, Dr. Greg Blonder</a>, to think about all this. He started by roasting three pound chickens at 325&deg;F, the temp I recommend for chicken and turkey. It is low enough to slowly cook the meat without badly overheating the outside layers, and high enough to render fat for crispy skin.<br />
<br />
1) Plain roasted chicken measurements. He roasted the birds in an indoor oven where he had better temperature control. He did not put a dark rub on the skin for his tests so they will look paler than many other beer can chickens. He monitored the breast meat temp and the air temp in the cavity with highly accurate thermocouples.<br />
<br />
It took the meat just less than an hour to reach 165&deg;F. By that time the air temp in the cavity was about 212&deg;F, boiling temp for water. So by the time the bird was done, the air in the cavity was about 125&deg;F cooler than the air outside. The results were a bird that was " lightly brown and very moist and tender" on the outside, and pale on the inside.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-28-WireroasterBreastsm.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-28-WireroasterBreastsm.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-28-WireroasterBreastsm-thumb.jpg" width="200" height="281" align="left" /></a>2) Vertical roasted chicken measurements. Next he took a vertical roaster, a stainless steel wire rack with a built-in drip pan beneath it. He repeated the test several times and there was surprisingly little difference in the time the meat took to cook on the vertical roaster and the horizontal roaster. We had expected the vertical alignment of the bird would allow more hot air to enter the cavity.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-28-BeerCanChicken_chart.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-28-BeerCanChicken_chart.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-28-BeerCanChicken_chart-thumb.jpg" width="400" height="313" align="right" style="float: right; margin:10px"></a>3) Beer Can Chicken Measurements. Then he tested the classic beer can chicken. To make sure there was enough surface area for the beer to evaporate, he poked extra holes, and to make room for 5 crushed cloves of garlic, he drank about 1/4 of the can. That's his story, anyway.<br />
<br />
The garlic was added to create a strong aroma that would be easy to taste if it penetrated the meat. He even let the beer come to room temp, more than 30&deg;F warmer than fridge temp, so the beer would not cool the interior of the bird and hamper its cooking. Most cooks don't do this.<br />
<br />
Thermocouples were inserted into the breast meat, the beer, and hovering just above the beer. All three rose in temp together and reached serving temp at about the same time, a little more than an hour later.<br />
<br />
Tellingly, the weight of the beer can afterwards, on a very sensitive scale, was unchanged. This may sound shocking, but in a slow rise from room temp to 165&deg;F, not much beer evaporates, and certainly fewer of the flavor molecules. Blonder did notice a slight garlic flavor near the neck cavity, but only there.<br />
<br />
Click here to <a href="http://www.genuineideas.com/ArticlesIndex/beercanchicken.html" target="_hplink">see the details of Dr. Blonder's experiments</a>.<br />
<br />
In preparing this article I did some Googling and discovered that Doug Hanthorn, the very clever fellow behind TheNakedWhiz.com also set out to test the concept and <a href="http://www.nakedwhiz.com/beercanchicken.htm" target="_hplink">came up with similar data</a>. His conclusion? Same as ours.<br />
<br />
Michael Chu, the author of the excellent website CookingForEngineers.com tested the Poultry Pal, a device that is supposed to improve on the beer can. <a href="http://www.cookingforengineers.com/article/171/Beer-Can-Chicken" target="_hplink">He came to the same conclusion</a>.<br />
<br />
So before you type below how stoopid I am, consider that three scientist/cooks have come to the same conclusion: Overrated.<br />
<br />
<h2>Six ways to cook chicken better</h2><br />
<img alt="2012-06-28-thermapen.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-28-thermapen.jpg" width="160" height="160" align="right" style="float: right; margin:10px">By far the meat temp is the single most important factor in getting juicy, flavorful, safe chicken. The cooking method is less important. You want to remove the bird when the breasts are 165&deg;F in the center (or against the ribs if you have a can in there). The dark meat should be about 170&deg;F. Dark meat can withstand higher temps and you'll hardly notice it, but overcook the breasts and you have cardboard. With all the money you can save on beer, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/thermometer_buying_guide.html" target="_hplink">buy yourself a good digital thermometer</a>. Cutting the meat to look for clear juices is not reliable and the fact is that salmonella is widespread in poultry nowadays.<br />
<br />
1) Horizontal roast on the grill. If you just forego the can, lightly oil the entire bird (it helps dissolve the oil-soluble flavors in the spices and herbs), throw a hoofta of seasoning in the cavity, you will get a better bird. But it must be cooked on the indirect side, away from direct flame, in a 2-zone setup. If you want really crispy skin, as the meat approaches 150F you can then move it to the direct heat side and roll it around over high heat for a few minutes.<br />
<br />
2) Vertical roast. Blonder likes vertical roasting on the indirect side. "The one thing beer can chicken gets right is vertical roasting. This uniformly cooks the meat, and crisps the skin. As long as you monitor the temperature and catch it when the breast hits 165&deg;F, the meat will be moist and tender. So I strongly recommend vertical wire roasting frames, on the grill or in the oven. And keep the beer where it belongs: In your hand."<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-28-rotisserie_chicken.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-28-rotisserie_chicken.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-28-rotisserie_chicken-thumb.jpg" width="175" height="109" align="right" style="float: right; margin:10px"></a>3) Rotisserie chicken (right) is better still. Season the interior, and the juices from the rotating bird will roll around the skin but not as many will fall in.<br />
<br />
4) Spatchcocked or butterflied chicken (left) is better still. You take the backbone out and flatten it and cook it skin up on the indirect side, and then flip it skin down on the direct side for a few minutes. This browns all parts on all sides, even the cavity. And it looks just as cool as Beer Can Chicken. The one at right was cooked on a gas grill. You can get really dark mahogany skin on a charcoal grill.<br />
<br />
5) Halving the bird is better. Remember, these are animals, not widgets, and they never cook evenly. If you cut the bird in half you can use your trusty instant read thermometer and monitor doneness and move legs or breasts closer or further from the heat as needed.<br />
<br />
The problem with spatchcocking and halving is that the thighs easily tear off when you move the meat around since there is little other than skin holding it to the breasts.<br />
<br />
<h2>Pieces kick Beer Butt Chicken in the butt</h2><br />
<img alt="2012-06-28-chicken_parts.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-28-chicken_parts.jpg" width="532" height="370" /><br />
<br />
Cutting the bird into pieces is the best method, if you do it right. The secret is to set up a <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/2-zone_indirect_cooking.html" target="_hplink">2-zone configuration on your grill</a>. This means one side, the direct heat side, is hot with the flame directly below, and the other side, the indirect heat side, has no flame below. You start the meat on the indirect side where it can gently roast from all sides at 225 to 325&deg;F, and the bottom begins to brown. The indirect side cooks by circulating convection flow air. Put wood over the flames on the direct side and you can add another layer of flavor.<br />
<br />
You can monitor each individual piece, and if you use a good digital thermometer you will be shocked to see how different they are. You can move each piece closer to or further from the direct heat so nothing overcooks. At about 150&deg;F, you move each piece skin side down to the direct heat hot side and brown it. It is vital that you use the 2-zone system to make this work or the thin edges of the chicken will overcook and the meat will dry out.<br />
<br />
Do it right and you will have tender, juicy pieces, brown all over, with each piece cooked to perfection, a feat impossible to achieve if the bird is whole and has a beer can up its butt.<br />
<br />
Best of all, you don't have to struggle cutting up a whole hot chicken.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/chicken_turkey_duck/simon_and_garfunkel_chicken.html" target="_hplink">Click here for my recipe for Simon &amp; Garfunkel chicken, which describes this method in detail</a>, and compare it to Beer Can Chicken. To do the comparison properly you must use the same rub on both preparations, and cook them side by side on the same grill monitoring temps with a digital thermometer.<br />
<br />
Other tips to improve your chicken: Start by buying better birds, perhaps pasture raised, and then try <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/rubs_pastes_marinades_and_brines/zen_of_brines.html" target="_hplink">brining</a>, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/rubs_pastes_marinades_and_brines/zen_of_injecting_meat_and_meat_injections.html" target="_hplink">injecting</a>, and <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/zen_of_wood.html" target="_hplink">smoking</a>. Lay on the oil and herbs and steer clear of the sweet barbecue rubs.<br />
<br />
But if you want to believe in Beer Can Chicken, please ignore the data and please ignore the logic and go ahead and waste your beer. And when you see a Michelin rated restaurant offering Beer Can Chicken, please let me know.<br />
<br />
<h2>What is your favorite way to cook chicken?</h2><br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>All text and photos are Copyright (c) 2012 By Meathead or Dr. Greg Blonder and all rights are reserved. For more of Meathead's writing, photos, recipes, and barbecue info please <a href="http://AmazingRibs.com" target="_hplink">visit his website AmazingRibs.com</a> and subscribe to his email newsletter, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/smoke_signals_newsletter/index.html" target="_hplink">Smoke Signals</a>.</strong><br><br><strong>Friend Meathead on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs" target="_hplink">http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs</a></strong>]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/667222/thumbs/s-BEER-CAN-CHICKEN-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>BBQ Pitmasters Week 5: Finalists Set, But Where Are The Big Guns?</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-week-5_b_1609326.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1609326</id>
    <published>2012-06-25T08:24:17-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-08-25T05:12:04-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[That sets up a highly competitive final on July 8 with the pitmasters answering the burning question, who goes home with the $50,000?]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Meathead</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/"><![CDATA[Sunday, June 24, was the last of the prelims of the Kingsford BBQ Pitmaster series, and now we know who the five finalists will be.<br />
<br />
The broadcast was shot in late April in Salisbury, MD, at Pork in the Park. The Maryland-Delaware peninsula is a virtual henhouse with more than 3,500 chicken farmers, and in the Salisbury area, more than 20,000 people work in the chicken industry, according to Jim Perdue, who made a cameo appearance on the show. So it was not surprising that the competition's organizers chose whole chicken along with bone in pork loin for this week's test. No crabs, no fish.<br />
<br />
This week's cooks were, in order of finish:<br />
<br />
1) Danielle Dimovski, Diva Q BBQ, Barrie, Ontario.<br />
2) Rob Marion, 2 Worthless Nuts, Cleveland, OH.<br />
3) Randy Hill, Southern Krunk Burn One Boys BBQ, Little Rock, AR.<br />
<br />
<h2>Next: The finals</h2><br />
That sets up a highly competitive final on July 8 with the following pitmasters answering the burning question, who goes home with the $50,000? Here are the finalists in the order I predict they will finish. <br />
<br />
<br />
1) Johnny Trigg, Smokin' Triggers, Alvarado TX.<br />
2) Danielle Dimovski, Diva Q BBQ, Barrie, Ontario.<br />
3) Melissa Cookston of Memphis Barbecue Co. in Nesbit, MS.<br />
4) Corey Brinson, Fatback's BBQ &amp; Rib Shack, Fayetteville, NC.<br />
5) Solomon Williams, Carolina Rib Kings of Georgetown, SC.<br />
<br />
Trigg, Dimovski, and Cookston are the three best cooks left standing, and it could go to any one of them. Although there are more women on the circuit in recent years, teams captained by women are still rare, so it is interesting that two of my top picks are pitmistresses (and no, I haven't been given a sneak peak at the finals yet).<br />
<br />
But a lot depends on what the producers ask them to cook. If it is whole hog like last year, Cookston can't lose. If one of the dishes is beef, Cookston and Dimovski might slip, for they are the queens of pork, in fact Cookston cooks mostly on the Memphis Barbecue Network (MBN) circuit, which is only pork.<br />
<br />
If they go with something safe like pork shoulder and ribs, Trigg could run aways with it and Brinson might even have a chance.<br />
<br />
One can never overlook the fact that Trigg is a close friend of the judges, that Cookston and Judge Myron Mixon have feuded in the past, and Dimovski is not well liked by many because she is new to the circuit and she talks trash. Yes it is supposed to be a blind judging, but the judges see enough of the prep they almost certainly have an idea of whose food they are tasting.<br />
<br />
There, I think I've covered enough bases that my predictions shouldn't embarrass me. Unless Williams wins it.<br />
<br />
<h2>Where were the heavy hitters?</h2><br />
But this begs the question, where were the other great barbecue champions? The ones who are the big money winners in the past couple of years and who rank high in the Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS) Team of The Year standings every year? None of them was in the series. Only Cookston is universally regarded as a top pitmaster.<br />
<br />
<br />
The season has been entertaining and educational, the best ever, but few of the superstar teams were represented in the series. Where were Mike &amp; Beth Wozniak of Bar-B-Quau from Illinois? Where was Harry Soo of Slap Your Daddy from California? Where were Mike &amp; Debbie Davis from Lotta Bull from Oklahoma? Where were Rod &amp; Sheri Gray of Pellet Envy from Kansas City? Where was Todd Johns of Pork Pullin' Plowboys from Kansas City? Where were Joe &amp; Kim Beland of TippyCanoe BBQ Crew from Iowa? Where was David Bouska of Butcher BBQ from Oklahoma? Where was anybody from Kansas City, Austin, or North Carolina?<br />
<br />
The answer, it seems, is that in order to be selected you had to get wind of the casting call, which was sounded mainly on the internet, and then you had to send in an audition video. The window for submitting was about a month. One of the producers, John Markus, told me that they were looking for established cooks who were at ease in front of the camera, authentic, people who viewers will want to watch, talent who the audience can root for or against." This is showbiz, after all, and they are in the business of selling cars and beer.<br />
<br />
Alas, I fear many of the top cooks either never heard about the call for video, they didn't have access to hardware and software, they didn't have time to script something clever, or they just didn't have the personality the producers wanted.<br />
<br />
<h2> Danielle Dimovski</h2><br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-19-divax2.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-19-divax2.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-19-divax2-thumb.jpg" width="400" height="192" align="right" /></a>Clearly Diva has it all. She can cook, and it appears she had the single best cook of the whole season. The Canadian mother of three put the world on notice when she won the pork category at the prestigious 2011 Jack Daniel's World Championship Invitational Barbecue. <br />
<br />
<br />
And she has a biiiiiig personality. If the producers were looking for a villain, Diva was more than willing to fill the role, right down to the black hat, black stretch pants, black shirt, and black apron. She is cocky, bragging during one of those little side interviews that are so popular on "reality" TV shows, that "I think I'm the smartest one".  But, in the words of Hall of Fame pitcher Dizzy Dean, "It ain't braggin if you can back it up", and she clearly won both meats, probably by a mile.<br />
<br />
The tightly wound Diva is shown berating Marion for the way he butchered his pork loin, going way beyond trash talking and crossing into poor sportsmanship. Clearly she has been watching too much Gordon Ramsey. She even barks at her teammate, her husband, "the love of my life", by asking him "are you new?" He sulks off staring at his shoes. Later she gives him a makeup peck.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-19-bonein_roast.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-19-bonein_roast.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-19-bonein_roast-thumb.jpg" width="400" height="283" align="right" /></a>But bone in pork loin was right in her wheelhouse. This large cut is similar to the bone-in prime rib or a rack of lamb. There are two on each hog, and they are the long, tender longissimus muscles that run on either side of the spine and attach to the baby back ribs. She treated them perfectly, Frenching the bones, which means she removed the thin strip of meat between the rib bones so she had a long thick tube of meat with bones sticking out.<br />
<br />
She cooked her loin with Canadian sugar maple lump charcoal (not Kingsford!) in a <a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/smokers/charcoal_smokers.html#backwoods" target="_hplink">Backwoods Smoker</a>, a small box that looks like a dorm refrigerator. She flavored the air it with hickory wood chips. Then she took it out when it was slightly undercooked, sliced it into thick individual pork chops, and grilled them on a Weber Kettle over high heat. But her secret weapon was a product called GrillGrates, an after market grate system made of aircraft aluminum. They are the best grates on the market and they make killer grill marks. <a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/barbecue_accessories.html" target="_hplink">Click here to read more about Grill Grates</a>. She then dunked the chops in a cherry habanero glaze and presented the judges with magnificent shiny pork chop lollipops. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-19-divas_pork.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-19-divas_pork.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-19-divas_pork-thumb.jpg" width="400" height="269" align="right" /></a>Whole chicken is a challenge. White meat can go from juicy to cardboard in a hurry, right in the 165F range, and that is the number that microbiologists and the USDA say is the minimum safe number. So to make sure there are no salmonella crawling around on the judging table, you have to walk a tightrope with white meat, taking it off at about 160 and letting the heat rise while it waits to be served. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/meat_temperature_guide.html" target="_hplink">Click here to see my award winning meat temperature guide</a>.<br />
<br />
The dark meat is more juicy and tends to be best in the 170F range, but it has a wider latitude before it dries out. It is harder to overcook. One would think that you could cook the bird whole or in halves and the two parts would finish about the same time since the thigh is thinner, but that often doesn't work out. So the best strategy is to cut the bird into parts: Breasts, wings, thighs, and drumsticks. That way you can monitor the temp and browning of each individually and remove each part when it is perfect.<br />
<br />
The other challenge for chicken is to get what the judges call "bite through" skin. The kiss of death is when a judge bites into your chicken and all the skin comes off in one sheet. The goal is to make the skin crisp enough that your incisors penetrate and thus you get skin with every bite. Bite through is really hard to do.<br />
<br />
Diva first brined her chicken, a step that adds moisture and flavor. In addition to her pork lollipops, Diva decided to make lollipops from the drumsticks as well. She chopped off the top of the fibula bone, where it connects to the ankle, releasing the skin, then with her thumb and forefinger pushed the skin down, bunching the meat in a ball, and then cuts off the lump of cartilage that remains on one side. This helps cook the meat more evenly because it is round and there are no thin parts to be overcooked. Chicken lollis are also great for parties, because the bone makes a great handle. But here she made her one mistake of the day, she forgot to wrap foil around the bone, and it blackened badly during the cook.<br />
<br />
She then put all the parts in pans with about 1/8" of melted butter, maybe more. And yes, she used real butter, not the ubiquitous Parkay Squeeze that so many competitors lean on. <br />
<br />
The pans went in the smoker at only 180F for about an hour. It is hard to get smoke into meat sitting in a pan, it tends to waft on over the top. So she is both smoke roasting and braising. Then she removes the breast, debones them, dunks them in a thin cherry habanero glaze, and slices the breasts across grain so they will be tender and so there will be no issues with the skin.<br />
<br />
As tough as Diva seems to be, when it came down to the top two awaiting the announcement of who would go on, she teared up. I'm sure the guys will not let her live this down for a while. I can hear them reminding her the words of Tom Hanks who said "There's no cryin' in barbecue."<br />
<br />
<h2>Rob Marion</h2><br />
<img alt="2012-06-19-marion.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-19-marion.jpg" width="390" height="505" align="right" />From Cleveland, this cook fell back into the his comfort zone by removing the baby back ribs from the loin, which he repeatedly called the tenderloin in error The tenderloin is an entirely different muscle from a different part of the hog.<br />
<br />
He then took the loin meat and cut it into thick chops about the size of hockey pucks, and wrapped bacon around the perimeter to "add flavor" and "make sure it doesn't dry out". To be sure the bacon wrap insulated the meat's edges against the heat and help keep it moist, but it will also prevent smoke penetration and dark color, and I doubt it left behind much flavor when it is removed, not in comparison to the rubs, smoke, and sauces he used.<br />
<br />
He cooked them for an hour at 275F. Then he placed the medallions on a pat of clarified butter, squirted his "sweet-heat barbecue sauce" on top, and wrapped in foil. He then put them back in the pit to bring the temp up to about 150F. In my book that's too hot. A thick chop like this should come off at 135 to 140F and it will rise to 145F max via carryover cooking, especially in foil. Air heats the exterior of the meat, but the exterior of the meat heats the interior of the meat, so when you take it out of the hot air, the exterior of the meat continues to pass heat down to the center. That's why your perfectly cooked Thanksgiving turkey is still dry. It continues to cook outside the oven.<br />
<br />
Marion injected his chicken and, like Diva, put his chicken parts in a butter bath, and after it was cooked he deboned the breasts. The thighs appear to be cooked in the style popular on the circuit nowadays. They are deboned, the skin is pulled back but not off, the fat under the skin removed so the skin will crisp better, and the whole thing reassembled and tucked neatly into a little pillow. It is then braised in butter with the top of the pan open so some smoke can land on the skin, dunked in sauce, and the bottoms dipped in agave syrup. Says Marion "one can never add too much sweet to barbecue." This may be true when presenting to judges who get only one bite, but I like to serve my dessert after the main course, not after the appetizer.<br />
<br />
Mixon was not impressed. "I got rubber band skin" he complained.<br />
<br />
<h2>Randy Hill</h2><br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-19-hill.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-19-hill.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-19-hill-thumb.jpg" width="400" height="341" align="right" /></a>The family doctor was the designated loser this episode. There always seems to be one poor schlub who is clearly over his head. He didn't trim much off his loin and brined it for about two hours. Two hours in a brine is not going to penetrate very far into that thick piece of meat (<a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/recipes/rubs_pastes_marinades_and_brines/zen_of_brines.html" target="_hplink">click here to read the facts about brining</a>). His rub has cinnamon in it, an unusual ingredient for pork barbecue, and a risk with judges who seem to have a fixed image in their minds of what they want. As I have discussed before, barbecue competitions have little room for creativity.<br />
<br />
But his undoing was the dumbest move of the entire season. He wanted to show the judges that he can cook a half a chicken, white and dark meat, all as one piece, so he squeezed half a chicken into the presentation box. That meant the judges had to rip it apart with their fingers, some getting only white meat, some getting dark, complete with ragged strips of skin that came off in the first bite. Judge Stone said he'd never seen anything like it, and judge Myron said he "shoulda ate the parsley" with which he garnished his box.<br />
<br />
<h2>At a glance</h2><br />
5 prelim rounds on Sundays, at 9 p.m. ET, finals on Sunday, July 8, on the <a href="http://new.destinationamerica.com" target="_hplink">Destination America</a> channel (formerly Planet Green)<br />
<br />
$50,000 prize, winner take all, and the title "Kingsford BBQ Pitmasters Grand Champion"<br />
<br />
<h2>Previous episodes</h2><br />
Here are links to my reviews of previous episodes:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-review_b_1558872.html?ref=food" target="_hplink">Week 1: Finally, 'BBQ Pitmasters' Gets It Right</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/melissa-cookston-bbq-pitmasters_b_1566689.html" target="_hplink">Week 2: Melissa Cookston Wins BBQ Pitmasters' Best Show Ever</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-episode-3-_b_1585354.html" target="_hplink">Week 3: Pulling The Trigger; All According To Script; And Is This Really Blind?</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-week-4-review_b_1603610.html" target="_hplink">Week 4: Is This Traditional Barbecue?</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-covering-t_b_681010.html" target="_hplink">Last Season's Finals and Season Wrapup: Whole Hog Cooked Old School On Concrete Pits, a Fitting Finish with $100,000 to a Real Chef From Iowa</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<h2>Judges</h2><br />
Myron Mixon, winner of 180 grand championships as head of the Jack's Old South team, and author of a best selling barbecue book "<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0345528530/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amazi0a8-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=0345528530" target="_hplink">Smokin' with Myron Mixon</a>".<br />
<br />
Tuffy Stone, past winner of BBQ Team of the Year and owner of three restaurants named Q<br />
Aaron Franklin, owner of <a href="http://franklinbarbecue.com/" target="_hplink">Franklin Barbecue</a> in Austin, called the best in the nation by <em>Bon Appetit</em> magazine.<br />
<br />
Judges scored each sample on a 10 point scale, on appearance, tenderness, and taste. Scores were weighted with 20% for appearance, 30% for tenderness, and 50% for taste.<br />
<br />
<h2>Related links</h2><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/recipes/porknography/pork_cuts.html" target="_hplink">The different pork cuts</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/meat_temperature_guide.html" target="_hplink">Meat temperature chart</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/BBQ_articles/barbecue_competition-1.html" target="_hplink">Behind the scenes at a barbecue competition</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/links/barbecue_competitions_and_associations.html" target="_hplink">Barbecue associations that sponsor or sanction contests</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<h2> So who is your pick for champion?</h2><br />
<br />
recap<br />
<br />
<strong>All text and some photos are Copyright (c) 2012 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved. For more of Meathead's writing, photos, recipes, and barbecue info please <a href="http://AmazingRibs.com" target="_hplink">visit his website AmazingRibs.com</a> and subscribe to his email newsletter, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/smoke_signals_newsletter/index.html" target="_hplink">Smoke Signals</a>.</strong><br><br><strong>Friend Meathead on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs" target="_hplink">http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs</a></strong>]]></content>
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</entry>

<entry>
    <title>BBQ Pitmasters Week 4: Is This Traditional Barbecue?</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-week-4-review_b_1603610.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1603610</id>
    <published>2012-06-18T08:25:53-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-08-18T05:12:12-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Competition barbecue has moved so far from traditional Southern barbecue that it must be considered a style of cooking unto itself, as different from the original as is Korean Barbecue.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Meathead</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/"><![CDATA[<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-17-dinosaur_ribs.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-17-dinosaur_ribs.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-17-dinosaur_ribs-thumb.jpg" width="600" height="448" /></a><br />
<br />
A full figured family man who scrapes together a living selling barbecue from a trailer has won the fourth of five prelim cookoffs in the Kingsford BBQ Pitmasters and will advance to the finals airing on July 8. He and four others will have a shot at the $50,000 purse, winner take all. And I find myself rooting for him. There is one more prelim on Sunday, June 24.<br />
<br />
Airing on Sunday, June 17, this time the judges and three competitors assembled in Dothan, AL, at the site of the Tri-State BBQ Festival in mid April for the taping. The pitmasters were given fresh ham, wagyu beef back ribs, and 11 hours to cook them. Each week, as the show begins, the voice of god intones that "three of the nation's top pitmasters" will be in the showdown. Not tonight.<br />
<br />
The teams were, in order of finish:<br />
1) Corey Brinson, Fatback's BBQ &amp; Rib Shack, Fayetteville, NC.<br />
2) Lee Ann Whippen, Wood Chicks BBQ, Chesapeake, VA.<br />
3) Shane McBride, Ribdiculous Bar-B-Krewe, NY, NY.<br />
<br />
<h2>This is not "traditional barbecue", Myron</h2><br />
Tis year's show is giving us a much closer look at how these teams cook than ever before, and it is fascinating. One thing that is apparent, these folks have invented a completely new style of barbecue.<br />
<br />
<br />
Judges say they are looking for "traditional barbecue", but what they mean is a far cry from real traditional Southern barbecue, and judge Myron Mixon of Georgia, a teacher of both traditional Southern barbecue and modern competition barbecue, should know better. Judge Aaron Franklin of Austin cooks real traditional barbecue every day and people line up around the block to eat it. He certainly knows better. Judge Tuffy Stone who is both a pitmaster and a real chef should also know better.<br />
<br />
Real traditional Southern barbecue is seasoned with salt and pepper, cooked in a pit with wood embers. A real traditional Southern barbecue pitmaster will baste the meat with a vinegary mop while it cooks, and dress it at the end with the sauce typically favored in his region. (<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/BBQ_sauces/index.html" target="_hplink">Click here to read a description of America's regional barbecue sauces and recipes</a>.)<br />
<br />
It totally blows my mind when competition cooks say they are doing traditional cooking and upholding the banner of "real" barbecue. Cooking in steel tubes with digital thermostats? Injecting with phosphates, sugar, apple juice, and brine? Rubbing all their meats with sugar, salt, paprika, black pepper, powdered garlic and other herbs and spices? Braising in foil? Bathing the meat in Parkay Squeeze, which may be 1 electron away from plastic? Painting everything with a sticky sweet tomato based glaze?<br />
<br />
<strong>The fact is that competition barbecue has moved so far from traditional Southern barbecue that it must be considered a style of cooking unto itself, as different from the original as is Korean Barbecue.</strong><br />
<br />
Now I'm not complaining that the product is poor quality. I have judged these foods and they are often spectacularly good. But they are not traditional and these people ought to stop saying it is.<br />
<br />
You want real traditional barbecue? Go to <a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/one_nation_under_sauce/austin_barbecue.html" target="_hplink">the great Texas barbecue restaurants</a> and many others around the nation. Not a barbecue competition.<br />
<br />
<h2> Corey Brinson </h2><br />
Brinson has to be the success story of the season, and I find myself rooting for him to win the $50,000 if only because he seems to need it more than the others. He makes his living selling barbecue, especially ribs, from a log cabin on a trailer that he drags around behind his pickup in Fayetteville, NC.<br />
<br />
But his trailer was too large for the space allocated in Dothan, so he cooked on a <a href="http://www.stumpssmokers.com/products/gravity-feed-smokers/vertical-smokers" target="_hplink">Stumps cabinet style smoker with a gravity feed tube for the charcoal</a>, one of the best designs for a smoker out there. In addition he used the <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/thermometer_buying_guide.html#partyq" target="_hplink">very nifty new PartyQ thermostat controller on it</a>. It is a small squirrel fan that controls the air to the charcoal, and thus the temp.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-17-brinson_trailer.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-17-brinson_trailer.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-17-brinson_trailer-thumb.jpg" width="400" height="300" /></a><br />
<br />
One of my biggest complaints, stop me if you're tired of hearing this, is that so many of the pitmasters have such limited cooking skills beyond the standard four meats required in Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS) competitions: Pork ribs (almost always spare ribs), pork shoulder, beef brisket, and chicken (almost always they cook thighs).<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-17-brinson.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-17-brinson.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-17-brinson-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="375" align="right" /></a>So it was no great shock to hear Brinson confess he had never cooked either meat. Beef ribs? The staple of half the barbecue joints in Texas? Fresh ham? Does this guy only cook from the front of the hog? Is this some sort of version of North Carolina kosher?<br />
<br />
More shocking is the fact that he won by beating Whippen, a much more experienced competitor with two restaurants that are not on wheels, and McBride, a trained chef working at a French restaurant in NYC. If I were a betting man, my money would have been on the filly. How did he pull this off?<br />
<br />
He did it by sticking to what he knows best. He treated the beef ribs like pork ribs, and the ham like a pork shoulder. A great pitmaster might have done things differently, but lucky for Brinson, the other competitors took the same path, and he outcooked them.<br />
<br />
Fresh ham is far different from the Easter hams you get, spiral sliced, and coated with brown sugar and honey. That's a wet cured smoked ham. It is injected with a brine and smoked, so when you get it home it is already cooked. All you have to do is heat and serve.<br />
<br />
The world of hams can be very confusing. There are scores of preparations sold in the stores. (<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/porknography/zen_of_ham.html" target="_hplink">Click here for a buyer's guide to hams</a>.)<br />
<br />
Fresh ham is the upper part of the hind legs of the hog, the rump if you wish. It is some of the best meat on the animal and has been prized by cooks since the first wild boar was slain by a spear. It has far less fat and sinew than the shoulder, and makes great slices for grilling or sandwiches. It can be handled much like the shoulder, rubbed and slow smoked, but then, instead of pulling into shreds, sliced like a turkey breast. Left alone it has a wonderful pork flavor. If you have a sweet tooth, as most barbecue cooks do, it is highly compatible with sweet red sauce.<br />
<br />
When it came time to serve his ham, Brinson sliced off chunks of the rich sweet dark rub and sauce coated exterior, called the bark, the candy of the meat, and placed them randomly in the presentation box. Mixon joked that it looked like he threw them in like dice. From a ham that probably weighed more than 10 pounds, he served about 1/2 pound, none of which was meat further than 1/2" below the surface. Judge Franklin said it had the best smoke flavor. Well, duh, smoke never penetrated much past the surface, so it's no surprise it was smoky. I think they should have dunned him for not serving more meat from the rest of the ham.<br />
<br />
Anybody who reads me knows that my motto is "No rules in the bedroom or dining room" so I really ought to keep my mouth shut about the phosphates, foil, and Parkay, but I must confess to shuddering when Brinson and the other covered some of the beefiest meat on the steer with a sweet sauce. Arrrgghh!  Louis Mueller and his son Bobby are surely spinning in their graves. Of the many pitstops in Texas, Louis Mueller's Barbeque in Taylor, TX is probably the on folks genuflect towards when beef ribs are discussed. His technique? Salt and pepper, low and slow on a brick pit. That's it. That's traditional. And spectacularly good. Because it tastes like beef. Not rub and sauce. Mixon made a point of saying "I like to be able to taste the beef... but I do not want any sweet thangs on any piece of beef I try." But all three pretty much used a lot of sweet. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/beef/BBQ_beef_ribs.html" target="_hplink">To see how they do it in Texas, and for my recipe, click here</a>.<br />
<br />
<h2>Lee Ann Whippen</h2><br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-17-whippen.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-17-whippen.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-17-whippen-thumb.jpg" width="400" height="523" align="right" /></a>The slender single Mom with runway looks, a megawatt smile, and her trademark flyaway wisps of blonde hair, would be the last person picked to be a pitmaster out of a lineup. With her equally blonde and elegant sister, her flame-emblazoned funnycar type paint job on her customized offset wood burning pit, this team breaks all stereotypes.<br />
<br />
<br />
She is part owner and Executive Chef of Wood Chicks BBQ, a restaurant in Chesapeake, VA, and Chicago Q, a large upscale dining room with an impressive bourbon lineup in a brownstone in a high rent district of Chicago. Whippen, by far the most experienced pitmaster on the episode, was back for her third crack at the title, and, once again, she was one and done.<br />
<br />
Whippen immediately thought of the cured/brined hams common in Virginia, and so she threw hers in a brine on ice for about an hour. About all this will do is salt the surface. Brines do not penetrate very far in a cold environment, and to get down more than 1/2" or so they need to soak for hours. And the mechanism is not osmosis as all the books and websites say, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/rubs_pastes_marinades_and_brines/zen_of_brines.html" target="_hplink">according to the latest research by Dr. Greg Blonder for AmazingRibs.com</a>.<br />
<br />
She then applied her rub of brown sugar, white sugar, cayenne, coriander, chili powder and who knows what else, but she left the fat cap on. No way the rub will penetrate to the meat. But she knows her customers, and she put a glaze of Judge Mixon's favorite flavor, peach preserve, on the giant hunk of meat. Mixon is, after all, from Georgia, he cooks with peach wood, and uses peach flavors whenever he can. She served the judges slices, pulled shards of meat, and chopped chunks. Just like a shoulder. And Mixon liked it even if the others did not.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-17-mcbride.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-17-mcbride.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-17-mcbride-thumb.jpg" width="400" height="424" align="right" /></a><h2>Shane McBride</h2><br />
It seems like every week the producer tosses in one cook who is way over his head. Although McBride is a trained chef from the Culinary Institute of America and Chef de Cuisine at Balthazar, a French Brasserie in Midtown Manhattan and he clearly knows how to cook, he was as far out of his out of his league as Brinson would be in a French kitchen. Yes, he has a pig tat,  yes, he had a fancy reverse flow offset smoker (at right), yes, he has competed in barbecue, but he never won anything of note. This was like watching Michael Jordan playing minor league baseball in Birmingham.<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-06-17-offset_baffle.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-17-offset_baffle.jpg" width="375" height="219" align="right" />As any Northerner who has spent time in the South knows, these folks are still fighting the Civil War, and the other pitmasters and judges mercilously rode him by calling him "Yankee Doodle", "Gourmet Guru," and "Cheffy Chef". Well, he did wear a white shirt to a barbecue competition, he did have a state of the art Lang 64 pit, and he did have four digital thermometers probing his cooker, so he was asking for it. I'm a big believer in digital thermometers. Dial thermometers are just not reliable. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/thermometer_buying_guide.html" target="_hplink">Click here to read my reviews of many of the best</a>.<br />
<br />
Cheffy did the French thing with the beef ribs, basting them with veal stock and butter. When he served them he did something clever, the "Cadillac cut". Each team was issued six slabs of wagyu beef ribs. Wagyu is a breed of cattled descended from a Japanese breed that produces meat with thin whispy filligrees of fat running through the muscles. Instead of slicing ribs through the meat midway between the bones, he ran his knife along the bone of the adjacent ribs so each bone has twice as much meat as normal, double wide.<br />
<br />
But he went conventional barbecue with the ham by injecting it with apple juice, apple vinegar, salt, Worcestershire, sugar, and spices. His rub showed the French influence: Salt, sugar, paprika, thyme, fennel, and coriander. He served it in thin slices, almost like a brisket. It impressed the judges, but he did not trim enough fat off and that got him marked down.<br />
<br />
Whippen, who now lives in downtown Chicago looked straight into the camera and, with no sense of irony, declared "City boys have no place in barbecue. None."<br />
<br />
<h2>At a glance</h2><br />
5 prelim rounds on Sundays, at 9 p.m. ET, finals on Sunday, July 8, on the <a href="http://new.destinationamerica.com" target="_hplink">Destination America</a> channel (formerly Planet Green)<br />
<br />
$50,000 prize, winner take all, and the title "Kingsford BBQ Pitmasters Grand Champion"<br />
<br />
<h2>Previous episodes</h2><br />
Here are links to my reviews of previous episodes:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-review_b_1558872.html?ref=food" target="_hplink">Episode 1: "Finally, 'BBQ Pitmasters' Gets It Right"</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/melissa-cookston-bbq-pitmasters_b_1566689.html" target="_hplink">Episode 2: "Melissa Cookston Wins BBQ Pitmasters' Best Show Ever"</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-episode-3-_b_1585354.html" target="_hplink">Episode 3: Pulling The Trigger; All According To Script; And Is This Really Blind?</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-covering-t_b_681010.html" target="_hplink">Season 2 Finals and season wrapup: "BBQ Pitmasters Finals: Whole Hog Cooked Old School On Concrete Pits, a Fitting Finish with $100,000 to a Real Chef From Iowa"</a><br />
<br />
<h2>Judges</h2><br />
Myron Mixon, winner of 180 grand championships as head of the Jack's Old South team, and author of a best selling barbecue book "<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0345528530/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amazi0a8-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=0345528530" target="_hplink">Smokin' with Myron Mixon</a>".<br />
Tuffy Stone, past winner of BBQ Team of the Year and owner of three restaurants named Q<br />
Aaron Franklin, owner of <a href="http://franklinbarbecue.com/" target="_hplink">Franklin Barbecue</a> in Austin, called the best in the nation by <em>Bon Appetit</em> magazine.<br />
<br />
<br />
Judges scored each sample on a 10 point scale, on appearance, tenderness, and taste. Scores were weighted with 20% for appearance, 30% for tenderness, and 50% for taste.<br />
<br />
<h2>Cooking tips for this week's meats</h2><br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/porknography/zen_of_ham.html" target="_hplink">What you need to know about the many different hams and how to cook them.</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/beef/zen_of_beef_ribs.html" target="_hplink">What you need to know about beef ribs and how to cook them.</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/beef/BBQ_beef_ribs.html" target="_hplink">Barbecue beef ribs Chicago and Texas style.</a><br />
<br />
<h2>If you watched, tell us what you thought. And what do you think about Competition Barbecue cooking methods?</h2><br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>All text and some photos are Copyright (c) 2012 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved. For more of Meathead's writing, photos, recipes, and barbecue info please <a href="http://AmazingRibs.com" target="_hplink">visit his website AmazingRibs.com</a> and subscribe to his email newsletter, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/smoke_signals_newsletter/index.html" target="_hplink">Smoke Signals</a>.</strong><br><br><strong>Friend Meathead on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs" target="_hplink">http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs</a></strong>]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/650130/thumbs/s-BBQ-PITMASTERS-COMPETITION-BARBECUE-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>BBQ Pitmasters Episode 3: Pulling The Trigger; All According To Script; And Is This Really Blind?</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-episode-3-_b_1585354.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1585354</id>
    <published>2012-06-11T08:54:43-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-08-11T05:12:07-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Sadly there is little room for creativity in competition barbecue nowadays. If barbecue is part of the culinary arts, then the judges and cooks should take a look at other forms.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Meathead</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/"><![CDATA[Sunday was the airing of the third of five preliminary cook-offs in season three of the BBQ Pitmasters. The contest was in Thomaston, GA, in early April at a larger competition called Smoke on the Water.<br />
<br />
The cooks were, in order of finish:<br />
1) Johnny Trigg, Smokin' Triggers, Alvarado TX<br />
2) Chris Hart, Wicked Good BBQ (formerly iQUE), Boston, MA<br />
3) Charles Wilson, C-Dubs Corruption BBQ Crew, Puyallup, WA<br />
<br />
<br />
<h2>Some thoughts on this year's events so far</h2><br />
<br />
<table width="250" align="right"><tr><td class="block" bgcolor="#ffffdd"><div style="border: 1px solid #000000; padding: 6px;"><br />
<h2>At a glance</h2><br />
5 prelim rounds on Sundays, at 9 p.m. ET, finals on Sunday, July 8.<br />
<br />
<br />
On the <a href="http://new.destinationamerica.com" target="_hplink">Destination America</a> channel (formerly Planet Green)<br />
<br />
$50,000 prize, winner take all, and the title "Kingsford BBQ Pitmasters Grand Champion"<br />
<br />
<h2>Previous episodes</h2><br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-review_b_1558872.html?ref=food" target="_hplink">Episode 1: "Finally, 'BBQ Pitmasters' Gets It Right"</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/melissa-cookston-bbq-pitmasters_b_1566689.html" target="_hplink">Episode 2: "Melissa Cookston Wins BBQ Pitmasters' Best Show Ever"</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-covering-t_b_681010.html" target="_hplink">Season 2 Finals and season wrapup: "BBQ Pitmasters Finals: Whole Hog Cooked Old School On Concrete Pits, a Fitting Finish with $100,000 to a Real Chef From Iowa"</a><br />
<br />
<h2>Judges</h2><br />
Myron Mixon, winner of 180 grand championships as head of the Jack's Old South team, and author of a best selling barbecue book "<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0345528530/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amazi0a8-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=0345528530" target="_hplink">Smokin' with Myron Mixon</a>".<br />
Tuffy Stone, past winner of BBQ Team of the Year and owner of three restaurants named Q<br />
Aaron Franklin, owner of <a href="http://franklinbarbecue.com/" target="_hplink">Franklin Barbecue</a> in Austin, called the best in the nation by <em>Bon Appetit</em> magazine.<br />
<br />
<br />
Judges scored each sample on a 10 point scale, on appearance, tenderness, and taste. Scores were weighted with 20% for appearance, 30% for tenderness, and 50% for taste.<br />
<br />
<h2>Cooking tips</h2><br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/porknography/best_BBQ_ribs_ever.html" target="_hplink">Click here for the techniques and the type of recipe for Last Meal Ribs, the way to make your backyard ribs competition worthy</a>.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/chicken_turkey_duck/ultimate_smoked_turkey.html" target="_hplink">Click here for the techniques and recipe for the Ultimate Smoked Turkey</a>.<br><br />
</div></td></tr></table>This week the meats were whole turkey, and bone-in pork belly, and once again, in line with this season's strength, viewers get to see much more of how the teams prep and cook their meats. In addition to the drama of who will win, we get to learn something.<br />
<br />
Alas, much of the methods they use, injecting with phosphates and covering everything in sight with Parkay and brown sugar, are better suited for judgings where the tasters get only one or two bites. These are practices that should be banned from backyards.<br />
<br />
Unfortunately, production values have declined from last season. And by now it is really apparent that much of the show is scripted. Both judges and cooks seem to be mouthing lines. Then there was the goofy sequence where one judge, just before announcing the results, asked, "who was judge number three?" because he screwed up his turkey entry. All three stepped forward. I wonder whose idea this was and how many rehearsals it took. I fully expected them to shout "I am Spartacus" (if you don't get the reference go watch the classic 1960 movie with Kirk Douglas).<br />
<br />
And did anyone who knows the competition circuit and the history of the three seasons of Pitmasters doubt from the opening sequences that Trigg would prevail when being judged by his friends, even though it appeared Hart outcooked him?<br />
<br />
Although the judges are said to be tasting blind, that is they are not supposed to know whose food they are eating, they would have to be blind to not have a pretty good idea. During the prep and cooking, they are allowed to visit the teams, and from the elevated judging table they can easily see what the cooks are doing. Did none of them notice that Trigg sliced his pork belly while the other two cubed theirs? Did none of them notice that Hart cooked the turkey dark meat and white meat differently? Did none of them hear Wilson verbalize his concern that his dark meat was undercooked and he would not serve any? Next season I would feel better if producer John Markus kept the judges completely away from the cooks.<br />
<br />
Sadly, these judges, like most barbecue judges, have a preconceived notion of what barbecue should taste like, and that reared up and bit a talented cook, Hart, when he presented turkey cooked two ways. These guys want smoked meat covered with sweet sauce. They call this "the classic barbecue flavor profile".<br />
<br />
Sadly there is little room for creativity in competition barbecue nowadays. If barbecue is part of the culinary arts, then the judges and cooks should take a look at other art forms, like music, painting, dance, and restaurants, where creativity and innovation are highly prized. I'd love to see how these guys would react to a fabulous plate from <a href="http://www.fattycue.com" target="_hplink">Fatty 'Cue</a>, the Asian influenced barbecue restaurants in New York City. Probably dump it in the trash.<br />
<br />
Worse, their preconceived notions leave little room for regional traditions. In a swath of central South Carolina, and even parts of Georgia, barbecue sauce is yellow. Mustard based. And it is wonderful, especially on pulled pork. But gawd help you if a cook from Columbia, SC, enters it in a competition outside his home state. Sadly, barbecue is becoming globalized. Pour the meat in the steel tank and pukketa pukketa it all comes out the same. (<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/BBQ_sauces/south_carolina_mustard_BBQ_sauce.html" target="_hplink">Click here for a very nice recipe for South Carolina mustard sauce</a>.)<br />
<br />
<h2>Johnny Trigg</h2><br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-11-trigg.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-11-trigg.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-11-trigg-thumb.jpg" width="400" height="265" align="right" /></a>The 73 year old Trigg is legendary on the circuit as well as on Pitmasters, appearing on all three seasons. Called "The Godfather of BBQ" and "The Rib King" he claims to have won more than $600,000 in prizes. He cooks with a <a href="http://www.jambopits.com" target="_hplink">Jambo pit</a>, a huge horizontal tube, a "stick burner" that he feeds nothing but  cured logs of Texas post oak. No charcoal. This is not easy. The wood must be cured properly and temperature control on these offset pits is an art. At this, Trigg is an unquestioned maestro. That's him at right a few years ago with one of his Jambos.<br />
<br />
Trigg epitomizes the strengths and weaknesses of so many competition cooks. He can really cook the four classic meats required at events sanctioned by the Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS), the largest sanctioning body. All their competitions feature pork ribs (usually spare ribs), pork butt (actually from the shoulder), beef brisket, and chicken parts (usually thighs).<br />
<br />
But last season most of these Johnny Four-Notes really struggled when presented with such exotic foods as pork crown roast, frog legs, and catfish. Last season Trigg was flummoxed when asked to cook baby back ribs. I mean they're from the same rib cage as his specialty! Yes, they are less fatty and need less cooking time, but c'mon, John.<br />
<br />
This year, the cocky cook claimed aloud "I can cook anything" and then, when confronted by a large slab of bone-in pork belly, he asked if they were beef ribs! When told what they were, he moaned "I've never heard of pork belly in my life"! Johnny, this is the streaky meat and fat layer that lies right on top of your favorite cut, spare ribs! In fact, the slabs they handed out still had the spare ribs attached! Somebody needs to explain to him this is the stuff bacon is made from, "the candy of the hog" in judge Myron Mixon's words. (I think I just set the world's record for exclamation points in one paragraph by a male over 18).<br />
<br />
You have to give Trigg the chutzpah award, however. Daunted, he took his slab over to Hart's tent and asks him what it is. Hart wisely refused to say. "You want me to come over there and trim it for you?" he snarked. His teammate could be heard in the background asking if Trigg wants him to cook it too.<br />
<br />
Trigg's teammate, his wife Trish, looked at it and noticed the bones looked awfully familiar, and the meat looked a lot like bacon, and finally the light went on.<br />
<br />
Trigg, and all the others somehow decided on similar approaches: Remove the spare ribs, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/porknography/best_BBQ_ribs_ever.html" target="_hplink">cook them the normal way</a>, and then smoke the belly pretty much the same as the ribs. <br />
<br />
Belly can be handled any number of ways, but one thing you really should do is cook it long and hot enough to begin melting the fat which then becomes semi-liquid, unctuous, and succulent. Fail to do this, and it can be wax, rubbery, and thoroughly unpleasant, especially in texture. One wonders if Trigg has ever eaten in a restaurant featuring contemporary cuisine, where pork belly is all the rage.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-06-11-GetImage.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-11-GetImage.jpg" width="300" height="300" align="right" />Trigg's secret ingredient is to slather everything in sight in Parkay Squeeze from a blue squeeze bottle, which he blithely refers to as "butter" several times. <em>Heck, this stuff isn't even labeled margarine. </em>For the record, butter is made from fresh cream and maybe a little water and salt. Parkay Squeeze is made from liquid soybean oil, water, salt, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, vegetable monoglycerides, soy lecithin, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, artificial flavor, phosphoric acid, beta carotene, and vitamin A palmitate.<br />
<br />
I don't want to sound like a snob and slam butter substitutes which have their place, but somehow I hold out the hope that champion cooks will be able to make great dishes with a minimum of processed foods. Sadly, this technique has become popular on the circuit as wannabes copy the winners like Trigg, and now that we have seen how much he loves the squeeze bottle, I fear an outbreak of carpal tunnel syndrome in other cooks.<br />
<br />
At judging time the panel like his presentation, but was seen pulling hard with their teeth to get meat off the ribs, and only one liked the belly.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2012-06-11-butterflied_turkey.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-11-butterflied_turkey.jpg" width="345" height="249" align="right" />When it came to the turkey, Trigg knew what he was doing. He was wise to butterfly it and lay it open, a method called spatchcocking. This is a fine way to make sure the thick breast meat, best cooked to about 165F, and the thinner thighs and drums, best cooked to about 175F, are cooked properly and evenly. It also makes sure the skin gets evenly crisp and browned, and opening it up makes it easier to flavor the cavity. At right you can see a butterflied turkey I cooked recently. Click here to see my recipe and technique for whole or butterflied bird.<br />
<br />
But once again he squirted the bird liberally with thick yellow Parkay and then he rubbed it in with his standard spice rub. But it must work, because the judges loved it, eliciting a "Wow" from Franklin.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h2>Chris Hart</h2><br />
<br />
I can't figure out how Trigg and his wife outscored Hart and his partner Andy Husbands. From my sofa it sure looked like they rubbed out the Godfather.<br />
<br />
Hart and Husbands have the chops. They recently released a fine cookbook "<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1592334997/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amazi0a8-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=1592334997" target="_hplink">Wicked Good Barbecue: Fearless Recipes from Two Damn Yankees Who Have Won the Biggest, Baddest BBQ Competition in the World</a>" and Husbands is the chef/owner of two adjacent chic restaurants in Boston's South End, <a href="http://www.tremont647.com/" target="_hplink">Tremont 647 and Sister Sorel</a>. They know what to do with belly and just about every other part. These are not Johnny Four-Notes.<br />
<br />
Like Trigg, Hart separated the ribs and belly. He injected the ribs, an unusual practice, but growing in popularity. He then smoked them on a Yoder Pellet smoker. <a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/smokers/pellet_smokers.html" target="_hplink">Pellet smokers</a> have done extremely well on the circuit lately, and they live on the exact opposite of the spectrum from Trigg's Jambo. Pellet smokers cook pure wood, like the Jambo, but the wood comes in the form of small pellets made from compressed sawdust, each about 1/2" long and the thickness of a pencil. The smokers have a digital thermostat that controls the flow of pellets into a burn pot. They also have a fan that controls the flow of oxygen. As a result, the cook can dial in the exact temp he wants, walk away for hours, and the cooker will control the mix of wood and oxygen and remain rock solid despite wind, rain, or snow. Trigg has to do feed logs and control air vents on his smoker manually, and has no use for pellets. "A pellet cooker is for a novice cook. All you have to do is flip a switch" he says. He has a point (although I have a MAK pellet smoker, and I am a big fan).<br />
<br />
When the belly was done, Hart then cut it into bite sized cubes. The judges loved it.<br />
<br />
For the turkey, Hart had a different strategy than Trigg. "Turkey legs and turkey breasts are opposite ends of the spectrum." Said Hart. Legs are "kind of gnarly and fatty and the other is super lean and if you overcook it it's goin to turn to cardboard."  He removed the thighs and drums and decided to give them <a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/recipes/rubs_pastes_marinades_and_brines/meatheads_memphis_dust.html" target="_hplink">a competition style rub</a> and smoke them on a <a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/smokers/egg_kamado_and_ceramic_grills_and_smokers.html" target="_hplink">Big Green Egg ceramic smoker</a> at 300F for about 3 hours. They then were dressed with a <a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/recipes/BBQ_sauces/lexington_dip.html" target="_hplink">North Carolina style vinegar based sauce</a> and garlic butter.<br />
<br />
He injected the breasts with another popular tool of the wily barbecue gladiator. I'm not sure which brand of injection he used, but a typical blend includes hydrolyzed soy protein, vegetable oil, sodium phosphates, monosodium glutamate, autolyzed yeast extract, xanthan gum, disodium inosinate, and guanylate.<br />
<br />
Yes, molecular gastronomy has come to barbecue. Or is it just good old fashioned ends justifies the means and pump up the meat with additives? Hard to tell the difference nowadays in barbecue or high end restaurants. While he's injecting, the Pitmasters director superimposed a caption on the screen that called injecting with phosphates "natural". Excuse me? Phosphates may in fact be found in mines, but not so much in turkey breasts.<br />
<br />
I have tried this at home, and it does amp up the flavor and retain moisture, but I see no need to add so many compounds to the inside of my meat. If I went to the store and saw a turkey with this ingredient list I would never take it home. Cooking it properly with a good digital thermometer is going to give you plenty of flavor and juice. If you have to inject, a mild salt solution will add plenty of moisture and flavor. By the way, <a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/thermometer_buying_guide.html" target="_hplink">a digital thermometer would make a great Father's Day gift</a>. Click the link for my reviews of a number of them.<br />
<br />
But after injecting, Hart wasn't done yet. He then lifted the skin, and pushed a rub of garlic, herbs, lemon zest, and olive oil under the skin. This is an excellent technique I have used with great success. This gets flavors in contact with the meat and doesn't confine them to sitting on top of the skin which is harder to penetrate. He then removed the legs and thighs from the smoker and placed the breasts on for two hours. One presumes he put the legs in an insulated holding box. This is surely a recipe for soggy skin and dry dark meat, something that is hard to accomplish.<br />
<br />
The judges didn't complain about either white or dark meats, but they didn't like two different flavors in the box from the two different preparations. Come on guys. Loosen up!<br />
<br />
<br />
<h2>Charles Wilson</h2><br />
<br />
Wilson, who towed his large Texas-made rig to Georgia all the way from Puyallup, WA, probably had a long introspective ride home. He was clearly out of his league in this event, especially against such seasond vets as Trigg and Hart.<br />
<br />
Things got off to a bad start for him. Propane is allowed only to start your fire, but not to cook. But Wilson forgot to open his chimney when he put the torch to the charcoal and walked away, and shortly thereafter there was a loud whump. Gases in the firebox exploded. He's lucky his pit didn't send shrapnel flying, although that would have been a novel way to take out the competitors. Everyone on the set looked pretty concerned, with good reason. Should this man be playing with fire?<br />
<br />
Wilson and his wife Alli started their turkey by submerging it in a brine, a good technique but it can take hours to get the salt and flavor into the meat. Injecting salt water is much faster. He then placed the bird in a flimsy disposable aluminum roasting pan. While it cooked, he squirted the bird with a mist of what I believe was fruit juice, cooling the meat and softening the skin. Usually I want crispy skin on my turkey. Basting is the enemy of crispy.<br />
<br />
Well the results were predictable. The thighs are low on the bird and they were sitting in liquid from the bird and the spray, and the drums, which were above the liquid were cooled by it. So while the breasts were cooking in hot dry air, the dark meat was bathing in cool liquid and air, and when he cut into the meat, it was undercooked and possibly unsafe. He wisely decided to not put dark meat in the presentation box even though the rules required both light and dark. This was the kiss of death. To make matters worse, Mixon had a bone in with his white meat.<br />
<br />
Like the others, he removed the ribs from the belly and cooked them as a slab. He then took a jaccard, a device that has many small knife blades, and punctured the belly with it many many times. Using a "jabberwocky" as he called it, is a great way to tenderize tough cuts of meat, but belly is pretty tender to begin with. He then injected it with fruit juices.<br />
<br />
Myron said this about his pork, "I wouldn't give you 50&cent; let alone $50,000." Now that's entertainment.<br />
<br />
<h2>What do you think of this years Pitmasters?</h2><br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>All text and some photos are Copyright (c) 2012 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved. For more of Meathead's writing, photos, recipes, and barbecue info please <a href="http://AmazingRibs.com" target="_hplink">visit his website AmazingRibs.com</a> and subscribe to his email newsletter, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/smoke_signals_newsletter/index.html" target="_hplink">Smoke Signals</a>.</strong><br><br><strong>Friend Meathead on Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs" target="_hplink">http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs</a></strong>]]></content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Melissa Cookston Wins BBQ Pitmasters' Best Show Ever</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/melissa-cookston-bbq-pitmasters_b_1566689.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1566689</id>
    <published>2012-06-04T10:38:16-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-08-04T05:12:12-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[Like a hungry farmer raised on real Southern smoke-roasted pit barbecue, for the last two years this franchise has a been serving me boiled ribs, and when presented with the real deal, I am gobbling it down.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Meathead</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/"><![CDATA[Last week, in episode 1 of season 3, BBQ Pitmasters unveiled a new and significantly improved format. <a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-review_b_1558872.html?ref=food" target="_hplink">Click here to read my review.</a> This week it aired the best show ever in the series.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-04-ScreenShot20120531at6.00.02PM.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-04-ScreenShot20120531at6.00.02PM.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-04-ScreenShot20120531at6.00.02PM-thumb.jpg" width="300" height="117" align="right" /></a>Taped in Memphis in late March, three contestants wrestled for 10 hours with bone-in pork butt and baby back ribs until only one was left standing. The winner will go on to the finals on Sunday, July 8 at 9 p.m. There are three more prelims, all on Sundays at 9 on the new Destination America channel (formerly Planet Green).<br />
<br />
<h2>About the meat</h2><br />
Pork butt is from the shoulder, not where you think, and it is a large tangled mass of muscles, sinew, fat, and connective tissue. Typically about 8 pounds, if cooked properly, it makes succulent, tender juicy meat, usually served as pulled pork. If cooked improperly it is dry and unchewable. Nowadays meatadors in the big money competitions put more chunks of pork in their turn-in box as well as slices from one particular tubular muscle they call the "money muscle." <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/porknography/perfect_pulled_pork.html" target="_hplink">Click here to learn more about cooking pork butt</a>.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-04-ribs.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-04-ribs.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-04-ribs-thumb.jpg" width="600" height="284" /></a><br />
<br />
Making them cook baby backs was a minor twist since most competitors prefer to cook a section from the spare ribs, further down the side than baby backs, from the part of the rib cage just under the bacon. Babies tend to be less meaty and less juicy than spares. Like butt, ribs are best when cooked low and slow. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/porknography/best_BBQ_ribs_ever.html" target="_hplink">Click here to learn more about cooking competition style ribs</a> (hint, championship ribs do not fall off the bone).<br />
<br />
All the teams cooked the meat in their smokers for a few hours and then wrapped them in foil, This step, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/texas_crutch.html" target="_hplink">called the Texas Crutch</a>, speeds cooking along, helps tenderize the meat, and prevents evaporation so it will be moister.<br />
<br />
<h2>Judges</h2><br />
The judging panel was Myron Mixon, winner of 180 grand championships as head of the Jack's Old South barbecue team and author of a best selling barbecue book "Smokin' with Myron Mixon<br />
<http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0345528530/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amazi0a8-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=0345528530>"; Tuffy Stone, past winner of BBQ Team of the Year and owner of three restaurants named Q; and Aaron Franklin, owner of Franklin Barbecue in Austin, called the best in the nation by Bon Appetit magazine.<br />
<br />
<br />
Judges scored each sample on a 10 point scale, on appearance, tenderness, and taste. Scores were weighted with 20% for appearance, 30% for tenderness, and 50% for taste. In case of ties, taste ruled, but according to producer John Markus, there were no ties.<br />
<br />
<h2>The cooks</h2><br />
This batch of competitors were far more skilled than last week's, and the cameras and directors gave us real insight into how they cook and how they were judged. Five of the six entries were high quality, and the winner was deserving as far as one can tell while drooling in front of the television<br />
set. I do wish the judges would share their scores with the viewers. I'm interested in hearing them, and there are some conspiracy theorists out there who suspect the outcome is scripted. I doubt it.<br />
<br />
In order of finish, this week's contestants were:<br />
<br />
1) Melissa Cookston of Memphis Barbecue Co. in Nesbit, MS.<br />
<br />
2) Moe Cason of Ponderosa Barbecue in Des Moines, IA.<br />
<br />
3) Donnie Bray of Warren County Pork Choppers in Bowling Green, KY.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-04-cookston.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-04-cookston.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-04-cookston-thumb.jpg" width="400" height="433" align="right" /></a>Cookston co-owns the Memphis Barbecue Co. restaurant in Horn Lake, MS, just across the border from Memphis. She cooks frequently on the Memphis Barbecue Network, an all-pork series of competitions and she has won Memphis In May, the largest event on the circuit with scores of teams from all around the country. While other teams proudly displayed their trophies around their outdoor kitchen on the show, Cookston simply won her World Champion ring and afterward snarked "Don't go cryin' to your mamas, boys, 'cause you just got beat by a girl. This Mississippi girl can cook."<br />
<br />
Yes, she can. Cookston is simply one of the top pork barbecue cooks in the world, perhaps the best, a claim that Judge Myron Mixon might claim. The editors let us see a hint of the rivalry between the two when the showed Cookston grumble that his "wheels are spinning, but the hamster looks dead." In real life Cookston is full of Southern snark. When a fellow competitor was jawing she declared He's trying to bust my balls over here and he doesn't even realize I don't have balls."<br />
<br />
Cookston and her husband used a <a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/smokers/charcoal_smokers.html#backwoods" target="_hplink">Backwoods Smoker</a>, a big box that looks like a black refrigerator. These designs are highly regarded on the circuit. They don't look as macho as the horizontal smokers, but they do very well because smoke and heat rise, they don't go sideways. This is a message to all of you lusting after this cheap horizontal offset smokers. Do't do it.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-04-money_muscle.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-04-money_muscle.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-04-money_muscle-thumb.jpg" width="400" height="372" align="right" /></a>Cookston burns charcoal and her favorite flavoring woods are peach and apple. She trimmed off the entire fat cap and removed the "money muscle" (shown on the right side of the picture at right) from the rest of the butt, a step that is illegal in some competitions. Then she sprinkles her rub, a spice mix, on, squirts on ballpark yellow mustard, and then tops it with turbunado sugar. By removing it she was able to cook it to the proper temp, remove it while the thicker pieces come up to their proper temp, and get a nice crust, called bark, all around. She cooked the butt at 275F, hotter than many competitors, but at that temp she could be sure of getting the job done in the 10 hours allotted.<br />
<br />
She was also gutsy, turning in some ribs with sauce, called "wet ribs", and some without sauce, called "dry ribs". Dry is a style that is popular in Memphis. The judges didn't care for the dry ribs. Instead of cutting the ribs into individual bones, she left them in two-bone sections, also gutsy, because the judges are sure to pull them apart and judge the tenderness even before they get into their mouths. But the technique gives them bigger bites, and helps retain moisture. <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/amazing_ribs_defined.html" target="_hplink">Click here to get an idea of what judges look for in competition ribs</a>.<br />
<br />
I think she has a very good chance to win it all, although Johnny Trigg, DivaQ, and the others might have something to say about that.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-04-cason.jpg"><img alt="2012-06-04-cason.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-06-04-cason-thumb.jpg" width="400" height="336" align="right" /></a>Cason (right), a mountain of a man with arms the size of hams, missed the finals by 0.6 points. He use an Ole Hickory UltraQue, another vertical box that looks like those big blue mailboxes on the corner. He prefers pecan wood with charcoal, and injected the meat with a cola based mixture, and slathered his ribs with Worcestershire and a sprinkling of jalapeno powder.<br />
<br />
Bray was cooking on a home made wood burning smoker, called a "stick burner" by those in the know. His undoing was attempting to serve his pork butt without sauce. While it sat in the turn in box it oxidized, turned gray, and dried out. He attempted to revive it by painting on a sauce at the last minute, but failed. Mixon called it "half-assed barbecue."<br />
<br />
Probably was. But like a hungry cotton farmer raised on real Southern smoke-roasted pit barbecue, for the last two years this franchise has been serving me boiled ribs, and when presented with the real deal, I am gobbling it down.<br />
<br />
<strong>All text and some photos are Copyright (c) 2012 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved. For more of Meathead's writing, photos, recipes, and barbecue info please <a href="http://AmazingRibs.com" target="_hplink">visit his website AmazingRibs.com</a> and subscribe to his email newsletter, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/smoke_signals_newsletter/index.html" target="_hplink">Smoke Signals</a>.</strong><br><strong>Friend Meathead on Facebook: <a href="www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs" target="_hplink">http://www.facebook.com/AmazingRibs</a></strong>]]></content>
    <link href="http://i.huffpost.com/gen/631489/thumbs/s-BBQ-PITMASTERS-mini.jpg" type="image/jpeg" rel="enclosure"/>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Finally, 'BBQ Pitmasters' Gets It Right</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-review_b_1558872.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1558872</id>
    <published>2012-05-31T12:47:03-04:00</published>
    <updated>2012-07-31T05:12:17-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[After three seasons of practice, BBQ Pitmasters, a reality cooking competition that is decidedly not Top Chef, has finally found the recipe.]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Meathead</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/"><![CDATA[After three seasons of practice, <em>BBQ Pitmasters</em>, a reality cooking competition that is decidedly not <em>Top Chef</em>, has finally found the recipe.<br />
<br />
The broadcast premiered on Wednesday, May 30 and will settle into a new time slot starting this Sunday at 9 p.m. Eastern.<br />
<br />
Last year's version was great fun, but deeply flawed on a number of points that I will not regurgitate here, but <a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/bbq-pitmasters-covering-t_b_681010.html" target="_hplink">you can read by my wrap-up from last year in Huffington Post.</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-05-31-markus.jpg"><img alt="2012-05-31-markus.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-05-31-markus-thumb.jpg" width="200" height="302" align="right" /></a>This year the producers, led by John Markus (at right), himself a fine competitive barbecue cook, got more right than wrong.<br />
<br />
On the line is $50,000 in prize money, winner take all, and the priceless title "Kingsford BBQ Pitmasters Grand Champion." Each prelim will feature three teams, one of which will advance to the finals. There are five prelims and a final, pitting all five winners and their pits, on July 8.<br />
<br />
Alas, the bill for the mistakes of the past have come due. The payout is down from $75,000, the set is bare bones, the show lacks the high production values of last year (many of the cook's comments had to be subtitled because the audio was so poor), and the show has moved from the TLC cable channel to the Planet Green channel, just rebranded as the <a href="http://new.destinationamerica.com/" target="_hplink">Destination America channel</a>, owned by Discovery Communications, but way up the cable dial, and not included in most basic cable plans.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-05-31-pitmasters.jpg"><img alt="2012-05-31-pitmasters.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-05-31-pitmasters-thumb.jpg" width="400" height="266" align="right" /></a>On the plus side, the judging panel is top notch with irascible Myron Mixon (center), the "loud and proud" winner of 180 grand championships as head of the Jack's Old South team, and author of a best selling barbecue book "<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0345528530/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amazi0a8-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=0345528530" target="_hplink">Smokin' with Myron Mixon</a>", the gentler Tuffy Stone (left), past winner of BBQ Team of the Year and owner of three restaurants named Q, and the estimable Aaron Franklin (right), owner of Franklin Barbecue in Austin, called the best in the nation by <em>Bon Appetit</em> magazine. Anybody know why photographers insist on posing chefs and other cooks with arms crossed looking defiant?<br />
<br />
Mixon and Stone are old friends and have competed against each other many times. They horse around and joke in their branded shirts. Franklin, on the other hand is quiet so far in his simple understated plaid cowboy/nerd shirt.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-05-31-brisket_box.jpg"><img alt="2012-05-31-brisket_box.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2012-05-31-brisket_box-thumb.jpg" width="400" height="389" align="right" /></a>This year they are judging more or less blind. Teams turn in numbered styrofoam boxes like the ones you get when you ask for a doggie bag. This is the standard turn-in box used in Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS) sanctioned competitions, with the meat lounging in a bed of lettuce or parsley. At right is the brisket entry box from Todd Johns of Plowboys BBQ. Alas,he was not among the competitors, and none of them turned in anything that looked this good. Notice the row of "burnt ends", crispy crunchy chunks from the fattiest part of the brisket that judges look forward to like candy. One goofball did not even put any in his box.<br />
<br />
But this event was not perfectly blind since they get to watch the cooks work and prepare the entries, so surely they have some sense of whose food is in front of them. Still, this method is much fairer than last year where the cooks presented their entries to the judges and stood before them to face the music.<br />
<br />
This year the cooks go backstage where they get to watch the judges insult their food with <em>bon mots </em>like this classic from Franklin "It tastes like a really bad roast beef you get at a gas station." Then they act like the judges are idiots.<br />
<br />
All six segments were filmed in late March and April. The first segment took place during a KCBS sanctioned competition at the "Don't Be Cruel Barbecue Duel" in Tupelo, MS on March 16 &amp; 17. Their presence at a large competition is a bit weird since they are not competing against the other teams, just themselves. At the KCBS events were proven winners such as Quau, reigning Team of the Year, killer Hogs (the won the event), Pellet Envy, and even Marvin's team, Jack's Old South, (operating mostly without their captain), Lotta Bull.<br />
<br />
The others are against the clock with four dishes to prepare, and they have only two. At KCBS judgings they have to cook pork ribs, pork butt, a chicken part, and beef brisket. For <em>Pitmasters</em> they had to cook brisket, something they should all be familiar with, and Tri-Tip, a cut from the sirloin that is popular in Southern California, but not many places else. The meat came from renowned producer, <a href="http://www.snakeriverfarms.com/" target="_hplink">Snake River Farms</a> in Idaho, and the brisket was an expensive wagyu, from cattle descended from the Japanese breeds. At least there was no rattlesnake or alligator this year. And no annoying announcer. The judges did all the intro material.<br />
<br />
The biggest downer was that the teams were relative unknowns, listed here in their order of finish:<br />
<br />
<ol><li><strong>Solomon Williams</strong> of Carolina Rib Kings of Georgetown, SC. He cooked on what looked to be a large expensive restaurant cooker with a ferris wheel mechanism inside, either a Southern Pride or Ole Hickory.</li><br />
<br />
<li><strong>Hank Vaiden</strong> of Cotton Patch Cooking Crew from Columbus, MS. He cooked on a large horizontal pit that looked homemade.</li><br />
<br />
<li><strong>Jim Stancil</strong> of Bare knuckles BBQ of Oxford, GA. He cooked on ceramic ovals by Primo, similar to Big Green Eggs only better.</li></ol><br />
<br />
They were chosen mainly by submitting audition tapes, so presumably the ones with the most personality and attitude were selected regardless of cooking chops. Although it would be hard to tell from this crowd. They were a bland bunch.<br />
<br />
Hopefully the level of competition will rise as luminaries from seasons 1 &amp; 2 like Melissa Cookston, Johnny Trigg, DivaQ, Lee Ann Whippen, Moe Cason, and others return to the lardlight. Although Solomon won, this guy is not a great cook and I doubt he will do well in the finals.<br />
<br />
One thing Markus did to improve the show was give us more footage of the cooks actually preparing their entries. Last year they skipped over this to infuse drama into the gameshow atmosphere in a futile attempt to turn this into <em>Survivor</em>. This year, if you watch closel, you might learn a thing or two. Or not. These three made a lot of mistakes. It was sad to see them dumping all that sugar and margarine (!!!!!) on their expensive wagyu brisket. (<a href="http://www.amazingribs.com/recipes/beef/texas_brisket.html" target="_hplink">Click here to learn how to cook Texas style brisket</a>.)<br />
<br />
My main complaint last year was that KCBS competitors are really four trick ponies. They cook the four KCBS meats and that's all they know. This has not changed. Only one had a clue as to what to do with tri-tip. This muscle from the sirloin is best cooked like a steak, medium rare (130F) in the center and seared on the outside. Salt &amp; pepper is about all it needs, but these guys really mangled it by cooking it up to 200F like a brisket or dunking it in all sorts of juices. Sad. (<a href="http://amazingribs.com/recipes/beef/santa_maria_tri-tip_steaks.html" target="_hplink">Click here for the classic Santa Maria style recipe</a>.)<br />
<br />
My other big complaint is common to all reality shows. When you return from commercial they feel obligated to catch you up on what happened before as if it was last week. So much repetition.<br />
<br />
I look forward to warming up for <em>Mad Men</em> each Sunday with meat, and perhaps a martini.<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>All text is Copyright (c) 2012 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved. For more of Meathead's writing, photos, recipes, and barbecue info please <a href="http://AmazingRibs.com" target="_hplink">visit his website AmazingRibs.com</a> and subscribe to his email newsletter, <a href="http://amazingribs.com/smoke_signals_newsletter/index.html" target="_hplink">Smoke Signals</a>.</strong><br><br />
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</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Cooking with Charcoal vs. Gas: The Definitive Answer</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/charcoal-vs-gas-the-defin_b_203818.html"/>
    <id>tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2009:/theblog//3.203818</id>
    <published>2012-05-17T07:06:53-04:00</published>
    <updated>2013-05-10T17:28:09-04:00</updated>
    <summary><![CDATA[The flame war between charcoal grill purists and gas grill hotheads burns brighter than the debate between Mac and PC users. ]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Meathead</name>
        <uri>http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/</uri>
    </author>
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/craig-goldwyn/"><![CDATA[The flame war between charcoal grill purists and gas grill hotheads burns brighter than the debate between Mac and PC users. You should read some of the slop slung on the barbecue message boards. On second thought, don't. Let me try to sort it out for you with a few inflammatory thoughts.<br />
<br />
Grills are used mostly for three types of cooking:<br />
<br />
1) <strong>High heat direct radiation cooking</strong> when the food is placed directly above the heat source for things like steaks.<br />
<br />
2) <strong>Indirect heat convection roasting</strong> for things like whole chickens and roasts when the heat source is off to the side and the food cooks by warm air circulating around it.<br />
<br />
3) <strong>Indirect heat smoke roasting</strong> for things like ribs when the warm air is heavy with flavorful hardwood smoke.<br />
<br />
Let's see how each fuel performs at these tasks and all the other factors.<br />
<br />
<h2>Is there a taste difference?</h2><br />
<br />
<img alt="2009-05-15-juices.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2009-05-15-juices.jpg" width="450" height="301" align="right" />Charcoal makes a tiny bit more smoke than gas, although, when lit properly, good charcoal produces little smoke and it is not likely to get into food that is cooked quickly such as burgers, hot dogs, or even steaks.<br />
<br />
The smoke you see when grilling comes mostly from drippings from the food hitting the hot coals. Meat drippings are mostly water, fat, and protein plus whatever you have added, like sugar in barbecue sauce. When drippings hit the coals they vaporize and some of that condenses on the meat and some penetrates into the meat. Most gas grills cover the flame jets with metal plates, lava rock, or ceramic rocks that absorb the heat and radiate it. Drippings hit these radiant surfaces where it is vaporized, making smoke and steam, just like charcoal.<br />
<br />
There is also a minor difference in the flavor imparted by combustion gasses, the volatile byproducts given off by the burning of the charcoal or the gas. When propane combusts it makes more steam than charcoal, and some say that keeps meat moist giving gas an advantage. Others think the steam is a disadvantage, hampering chicken skin from getting crisp.<br />
<br />
<img alt="2009-05-15-chimney.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2009-05-15-chimney.jpg" width="115" height="115" align="right" />There is one other flavor difference of note. If you use self-igniting charcoal or charcoal fluid to start a charcoal fire, there can be an unpleasant petrochemical smell during ignition and it can get into the food. Yuk. For this reason you should use a charcoal chimney or an electric charcoal starter. I prefer the chimney because it is faster and easier and needs no outlet. My fave is the <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/BBQ_accessories.html#chimney">Weber Rapidfire Chimney Starter</a>.<br />
<br />
If you use your grill for smoke roasting, there is a more noticeable difference in flavor. The combustion gases from charcoal when mixed with smoke from wood chips or chunks makes a distinctive flavor typical of traditional southern barbecue. On a propane grill, the flavor is a bit more bacon-like. Which is better? Taste is a matter of taste.<br />
<br />
But when it comes to direct heat grilling, the fact is that, if all things are equal such as cooking temp, most folks can't tell the difference in the taste between charcoal and gas grilled food. If you use strong flavored rubs, marinades, and sauces, you will never notice taste differences. You may think you can, but blind tastings have shown that you probably can't. So if there is little taste difference, the choice comes down to functionality.<br />
<br />
<h2>Charcoal pros and cons</h2><br />
<br />
<img alt="2009-05-15-weber_kettle.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2009-05-15-weber_kettle.jpg" width="300" height="300" align="right" />Charcoal purists are vehement and border on snobbery. They who would <em>never ever never</em> own a gas grill. They claim it is the flavor, but for me, a lot of it is the thrill of playing with fire and the ritual.<br />
<br />
The real reason to buy a charcoal grill is that charcoal can get hotter than standard gas grills, and heat is what you need to get steaks and lamb crisp on the outside and red or pink on the inside. Charcoal grills typically cook up to 500F. If you use a lot of coals or if the coals are raised close to the cooking surface, they can cook as hot as 700F. When I get my hands on top quality lamb or beef, I use bricks to raise the charcoal grate on my Weber Kettle to within 1" of the meat and the result looks and tastes as good as anything you can get at Morton's (see the picture at the top of this page). My favorite charcoal grills have a crank that let you raise and lower the charcoal bed.<br />
<br />
On the down side: Charcoal is dirty to handle; it can be hard to light; it takes about 15 minutes longer to get up to temp; there can be flare-ups that can burn the food and that is a health risk; it is hard to tell what temp you are cooking at; the temperature cannot be turned down rapidly; during long cooks it slowly loses heat and you need to add more charcoal; charcoal grills rarely have rotisseries; and there is a lot of ash to clean up after.<br />
<br />
Most of these problems are easily surmounted if you know how: If you use gloves, shovels, or tongs, you need not ever handle raw coals. If you keep the charcoal dry and use a chimney, getting hot coals is easy. If you push the coals to one side of the grill and set up a 2-zone cooking environment, fatty meats like chicken skin does not drip on the coals and flare up, and even if there are flareups, a squirt gun can contain them. And cleanup of ash is easier with some of the one-touch grills or grills that have removable ash trays.<br />
<br />
<blockquote><br />
<h3>2008 Grill &amp; Smoker Shipments</h3><br />
<br />
58% Gas<br />
40% Charcoal<br />
2% Electric<br />
<br />
16,682,400 total</blockquote><br />
<br />
The most important part of any cooking, indoor or out, is regulating heat. To do that you need a reliable oven thermometer, and a little know how that takes time to acquire. Alas I have never seen a charcoal grill with a really good thermometer, and the thermometer is never mounted where it is needed, near the meat. The temp in the top of the dome can be very different at meat level.<br />
<br />
Since charcoal grills do not have temperature dials to raise or lower temp, it is important to learn how to set up a <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/2-zone_indirect_cooking.html">2-zone fire</a> which helps you regulate heat by moving meat from the hot to the medium zone, and learn how to control the energy of the fire by closing off the oxygen intake vents. They are your temperature dials.<br />
<br />
In short, cooking with charcoal can yield excellent results if you practice. The high heat is perfect for red meats, and if you learn your instrument, it will reward you handsomely. It is not intuitive and brainless, but there is little it cannot do when you achieve mastery, Grasshopper.<br />
<br />
<h2>Gas pros and cons</h2><br />
<br />
<img alt="2009-05-15-weber_summit.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2009-05-15-weber_summit.jpg" width="300" height="252" align="right" />Gas grills outsell charcoal grills and it is easy to understand why. They offer convenience and control. Those two words alone could cinch the argument.<br />
<br />
They are easy to start, heat up within 10-15 minutes, hold temperatures steadily, are easy to clean, and can be configured for indirect and multi-zone cooking. If it's Tuesday and you need dinner ready in an hour, the gasser can do it. Low to mid-price gas grills typically have a top end of 400-600F. More expensive grills can get up to 700F.<br />
<br />
Alas, they are not perfect. A dial setting of 1 may equal 275F on a 70F day, but it can be 225F on a cool, windy, or rainy day. Or 300F on a hot day. But once you get to know your instrument, it is pretty easy to manage and if it has two or more burners it is easy to have two or more heat zones. On a three burner grill you might use a hot zone for meat, a medium zone for veggies, and a low zone for holding finished foods. It is still necessary to know what temperature you are cooking at, and the thermometers on most gas grills are not precise, so I strongly recommend you buy a good digital oven thermometer and a good digital meat thermometer.<br />
<br />
Most gas grills use metal plates, lava rocks, and ceramics to radiate heat, so there are no open flames, no flareups, and cleanup is easier because drips are usually vaporized. There's little or no ash, so gassers are easier to clean, but they suffer from carbon and grease buildups that need to be scraped or pressure washed every few months. There are also gas jets and venturis that can clog up. I have even had to dig a wasp's nest out of one of the tubes once. Some people discard the lava rocks or ceramics every year. Others think that the buildup of grease in the porous materials produces desirable flavors. My brother-in-law makes the world's finest swordfish on a crappy old gas grill with lava rocks he has been using since they were harvested in the last ice age. Some of his lava rocks have begun to disintegrate and there are gaps where bare flame slips through to lick the meat. I have never been able to come close to his swordfish on all my fancy toys.<br />
<br />
Gas grills can come with a wide range of accessories. Most are set up so you can easily attach a rotisserie accessory and many come with side burners so you can keep sauces warm or cook side dishes. You can get night lights, side tables, spice racks, storage drawers, side burners, and there' probably even one with a DVD player.<br />
<br />
The biggest problem with gas grills is that only the top end models get hot enough to get a steak crunchy on the exterior without overcooking the interior. If you like your steaks well done, gas grills are perfect for you. But if you like your meat crunchy on the outside and rare to medium rare on the inside, the temp at which it is most tender and juicy, then most gas grills just don't get the job done. The italicized word is "most". Many of the more expensive gas grills now come with "infrared" burners off to one side. This is a bit of a misnomer because all grills cook by infrared, or heat, radiation. Infrared burners use a gas flame to superheat a ceramic or metal plate that radiates much more heat than standard burners. As much as twice the heat. In the 700F plus range. That's the kind of temps that steakhouses cook at. They can give you those deep dark crusty steaks with red or pink interiors. Alas, most infrared burners are only big enough for one or two steaks at a time.<br />
<br />
Infrared burners may be perfect for steaks, but they are much too hot for direct heat cooking of most fish and veggies. Even with steaks, you need to keep an eye on food over direct infrared. They can incinerate in a hurry. Infrared burners can sometimes be used for rotisserie cooking and can even be used for indirect heat cooking.<br />
<br />
Some high end gas grills also have smoke boxes for wood chips, but for most gas grills you need to make foil packets or put pans of wood down under the cooking grate near the flame. Even though it is not recommended, I often throw aromatic woods right down near the burners.<br />
<br />
Alas, most gas grill lids do not seal well, so a lot of the smoke is lost and more wood is needed than on a tighter grill. Because the mechanisms are more complex, gas grills tend to be more expensive than comparable charcoal grills, assembly of new gas grills is more complex that charcoal grills, and there are more parts to break and be replaced.<br />
<br />
<h3>Two types of gas</h3><br />
With gas grills you have your choice of liquid propane (LP) or natural gas.<br />
<br />
LP gas comes in 20 pound steel tanks. If you have an LP grill you should always have a full backup tank on hand. Nothing is more annoying than setting a chicken on the grill, cranking up the lawn mower, and returning in 30 minutes to discover that the tank ran out and the bird is raw.<br />
<br />
Propane gas is ideal for grills because, when pressurized, it compresses and turns to liquid, making it easy to store in tanks. It also contains more cooking energy than natural gas as measured in British Thermal Units (BTU). A BTU is the amount of energy required to raise the temperature of one pound of water 1F. There are about 2,500 BTU in one cubic foot of propane and only about 1,000 BTU in one cubic foot of natural gas.<br />
<br />
Gas grills typically range from 15,000 to 60,000 BTU per hour. Manufacturers tout the number of BTU their grills can produce, but the number can be misleading. The number of BTU is not indicative of the heat it can generate. That must be calculated by BTU per square inch, something they never tell you. Higher BTU grills usually have more cooking surface over which the BTUs are spread. Small grills can have as little as 5,000 BTU and large ones up to 60,000. Higher BTU grills use more fuel if you use all burners. 55-75 BTU/square inch is the typical range. Sideburners typically run 10,000-15,000 BTU.<br />
<br />
Natural gas is mostly methane. It must be delivered to the grill by a pipeline from your house so a certified contractor will be needed to do the installation and the grill must be parked in a permanent location. Propane grills cannot be hooked up to natural gas without an adapter kit and the regulator may need to be adjusted. Natural gas is cheaper than LP gas and you never have to worry about running out, unless you don't pay your gas bills.<br />
<br />
<h2>Other fuel choices</h2><br />
<br />
<strong>Wood.</strong> I frequently cook steaks in my Weber Kettle over grape vine and fruit wood cuttings. I dry stacks of the pencil thick sticks for a few months, and then stuff as many as I can into my grill. On goes the top grate. I light them from below and within 10 minutes I have 8' flames. They die down to white hot coals in about 10 minutes, and I have about 15 minutes of 1000F temps to cook on before they die. Nice flavor, too.<br />
<img alt="2009-05-15-traeger_cutaway.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2009-05-15-traeger_cutaway.jpg" width="150" height="178" align="right" /><br />
<br />
<strong>Wood Pellets.</strong> There are several nice grills that burn wood pellets made by compressing sawdust. They can get hot enough for direct heat grilling, but most owners tell me, while they are great for smoke roasting, they are not good grilling tools.<img alt="2009-05-15-coleman_electric.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2009-05-15-coleman_electric.jpg" width="125" height="125" align="left" /><br />
<br />
<strong>Electricity.</strong> There is a new breed of electric grills that are ideal for apartments with small balconies. Some models can get quite hot. There is a lot of grease to clean, but many of them are non-stick coated and some of the parts can go into the dish washer.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h2>Which to buy?</h2><br />
<br />
<img alt="2009-05-15-duo.jpg" src="http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2009-05-15-duo.jpg" width="230" height="246" align="right" />Which to buy? I have one of each. Almost all my birds, fish, veggies, pizzas, and breads go on my LP gas grill, almost all my red meats go on my charcoal grill. If you're starting out, and you want no fuss no muss, go gas. If you can afford it, get an infrared burner and a side burner.<br />
<br />
If you're willing to put in a bit more time to gain mastery of your tool, then go charcoal, and look for one that let's you raise and lower the coal.<br />
<br />
Or you could buy the Char-Griller Duo (right), which does both. Not a great grill, but I'll bet we see more duos in the future.<br />
<br />
I'm waiting for the trio. Charcoal, gas, and infrared!<br />
<br />
<h2>More useful info</h2><br />
<br />
Either way, before you make a purchase, read my article on <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/grills/index.html">How to Buy a Grill or Brazier</a>.<br />
<br />
For killer ribs and real Southern barbecue, there's no substitute fot a dedicated standalone smoker. Read my article on <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/smokers/index.html">How to Buy a Smoker</a><br />
<br />
Cooking is a balance of time and temp. Every outdoor cook needs a good oven thermometer and meat thermometer. Read my article on <a href="http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/thermometer_buying_guide.html">How to buy a thermometer</a>.<br />
<br />
For more info about charcoal, read my article <a href="http://amazingribs.com/tips_and_technique/zen_of_charcoal.html">The Zen of Charcoal</a>.<br />
<br />
<em>Copyright (c) 2009 By Craig "Meathead" Goldwyn, <a href="http://amazingribs.com">AmazingRibs.com</a>, and all rights are reserved. Click here for <a href="http://amazingribs.com/meathead/reprint_rights.html">information on reprint rights</a>.</em><br />
<br />
<em>This story appears in the special Summer Issue of our weekly iPad magazine, </em>Huffington<em>, <a href="http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/huffington./id517151550?ls=1&amp;mt=8" target="_hplink">in the iTunes App store</a>, available Friday, May 24.</em><br />
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