Neil Zevnik

A Yard Sale With Celebrities and Heart

2013-04-23T17:17:46-04:00

Everybody loves a good yard sale. And when it involves a bunch of celebrities cleaning out their closets and cupboards to benefit a children's charity, it becomes a great yard sale! And thus we have Teri Hatcher's Third Annual Celebrity Yard Sale on Saturday April 27, to benefit the Juvenile Arthritis Association.

Of course, this being Hollywood and all, it's not just a bunch of stuff on someone's front lawn, but rather a festive event on The Green at the posh and trendy Americana at Brand in Glendale, California. While folks browse through endless treasures donated by a long roster of familiar names, they'll be serenaded by local indie bands, refreshed by treats and beverages, entertained by children's activities and tempted by the offerings of a few high-end vendors.

"Everyone loves going through other people's things, even me!" notes host and organizer Teri Hatcher, of Desperate Housewives fame. "I've been having so much fun going through the items that my celebrity friends have graciously donated. Ellen Degeneres gave such cute clothes, and they are so Ellen! There are rare and unique things too, like a hand-drawn cartoon on a white t-shirt by Chevy Chase, and Al Pacino's personal photos from the sets of Scarface and The Godfather."

The sale's wares will run the gamut from home (a Tiffany decanter set that belonged to Dick Clark) to sports (an enormous signed shoe from Laker Pau Gasol) to red carpet (a one-of-a-kind Monique L'Huillier gown worn to the Academy Awards by Willow Bay). The donor list reads like a Who's Who of Hollywood -- Penny Marshall, Ray Romano, Carrie Fisher, Vanessa Williams, Julie Bowen, Camryn Manheim, Katey Sagal, Jason Alexander, Jimmy Kimmel and more.

And yes, Teri notes, it will be a real yard sale. "Frankly part of the fun is the haggling! We expect bartering, and you may even end up bargaining me down on the price of something. I'm a big softy, but it's for a great cause, so I may have to hold my ground and not let you have that Barbie for less than five dollars."

For those who need a further shopping fix, a few select vendors will offer goodies ranging from artworks to vintage costume jewelry to unique t-shirts. And spending like there's no tomorrow is not only justified on this sunny day but admirable -- because it all benefits a truly worthy cause. Besides, your favorite TV star may be browsing right beside you.

In the end it's all about the total experience, says Teri. "To me it combines so many wonderful elements -- the outdoors, yard sale treasure hunting vibes, music, food, and just love." And she adds, "Mostly I hope people will just come share a beautiful day with me on the lawn at the Americana and know that they gave to a good cause, and walk away with a good feeling inside."

Note: Tickets may be purchased in advance on the JAA website.

Watching the Waistline in Winter

2013-01-18T08:30:12-05:00

You open the front door to embark upon your regular morning run and are met with blowing snow and wailing wind -- your run is now a slog, and a short one. Dark has fallen long before dinnertime, and a lean chicken breast and steamed vegetables hold no allure -- you crave a hot, creamy chicken pot pie with a buttery crust. And the weekends spent outdoors in the park, engaging in vigorous pursuits, these are a faint green memory of summer past -- now you are trapped inside, planted in front of the TV set for hours on end.

And thus, how easy it becomes to pack on the pounds during the cruel months of winter. By imperceptible degrees, burgeoning fat inserts itself around your middle and secretively distributes itself over your thighs. Suddenly you're using the next belt hole and wondering why your jeans are so much tighter than you realized.

Fear not... With a little discipline, a little planning, and a firm resolve, you can beat back the wolves of winter weight. All it takes is a few new strategies for exercising and eating right.

Exercise

Maybe now is the time to finally get that gym membership you've been talking about, or join your local Y. The outdoors is out -- you'll have to burn your calories indoors for a while. You don't need to spend a fortune, the most basic equipment will do -- a couple of treadmills and stairmasters, a mat for sit-ups, and you're in business.

Perhaps you want to splurge and get your very own elliptical machine and stash it in the basement. Or plant yourself in front of your TV, but standing up this time with plenty of room to move, and an exercise DVD blasting away.

No matter whether you are in a gym or at home, here's the trick -- schedule workout times, and stick to them. There will be endless distractions and seemingly good reasons to postpone, and you'll cleverly negotiate with yourself -- "I have too much to do right now, but I'll do an extra 20 minutes tomorrow." You won't. As the iconic ad campaign so succinctly advises: "Just do it."

Eat Right

Something about gray, cold, wet days and nights just seems to cry out for heavy, comforting, fat-filled meals, and snacks in between. Fight it.

As always, start with a good breakfast. Oatmeal and fruit is great -- and make it comforting with locally-sourced honey, not cream. Scrambled eggs are just as good with half the yolks sent down the garbage disposal, and toast is just as crunchy and satisfying without the butter.

There's no rule that says that salads are only for warm weather; all you have to do is add a winter root vegetable and a legume and you've got a hearty lunch, or a perfect side dish for some roast chicken. You're on the move? A protein shake is quick, delicious, and infinitely preferable to a fat-laden offering from that drive-through joint down the road.

And now is the time to break out that crock-pot that your Aunt Bernice gave you as a wedding present, to make some easy, clean comfort food that will satisfy the soul and spare the waistline. Toss in a protein, some vegetables, a few herbs and a little broth, then fire that puppy up; come dinnertime, you'll be glad you did.

Yes, it takes a little more planning and a little more persistence, but you can defeat the doldrums of winter with just a few tweaks to your daily routines. And come next January 1, you'll be able to strike "lose weight" from your list of New Year's resolutions!

Power-Packed Shake Tropicale

This delicious and lean shake makes a perfect meal replacement to stave off the pangs of hunger and keep that belt size down...

1/2 cup pineapple juice
1/2 cup water
1 scoop vanilla protein powder
1/3 cup chopped fresh pineapple
1/3 cup chopped papaya
1 small kiwifruit, peeled and chopped
1/3 cup vanilla non-fat Greek yoghurt

Combine all ingredients in a blender. Puree. Enjoy!

Roasted Beet and Chickpea Salad

Makes an excellent vegetarian main course, or a robust side salad for some roast chicken breasts...

2 medium beets, tops and tail removed
1 tablespoon olive oil
2/3 cup cooked organic chickpeas
2 cups baby spinach leaves
2 cups romaine lettuce, torn into pieces
1/4 cup thinly sliced red onion
1/4 cup crumbled low-fat Valbreso French feta (optional)

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
3 tablespoons olive oil

In advance:

Preheat oven to 375. Moisten outside of beets with 1 tablespoon of olive oil; place on a foil-covered baking pan, loosely tent with another piece of foil, and roast until tender, about 1 hour. Cool, then peel and cut into cubes. Can be refrigerated overnight.

Make dressing: In a small jar, combine lemon juice, vinegar mustard and cumin, shake to blend; add olive oil, shake thoroughly to mix. Can be refrigerated overnight.

To serve: In a large bowl, toss spinach, romaine and red onion with just enough dressing to lightly moisten, add salt and pepper to taste; distribute between two plates. In same bowl, toss beets and chickpeas with a little dressing, then add to plated salads. If splurging a little, top with crumbled feta.

Serves two as a main course, four as a side salad.

A version of this post appears in my "Eat Smart" column in the November issue of Better Nutrition Magazine.

For more by Neil Zevnik, click here.

For more on weight loss, click here.

Feast of the Seven Fishes: A Healthy Interpretation of an Italian Christmas Eve Tradition

2012-11-30T11:41:46-05:00

I remember quite clearly my first moment of awareness of this traditional Italian repast: a December cover article in Gourmet magazine, more years ago than I care to acknowledge, promising recipes for seemingly endless courses of piscatorial delight. But I never quite got around to making it a reality. Then years later, while dating a delightful young lady whose family hailed from Naples, I finally attended one such event and was irrevocably smitten (with both the girl and the feast).

The origins of the tradition are shrouded in the mists of Southern Italian time, though all versions have one theme in common: no meat. As required on Good Friday (and indeed on all Fridays when I was child in an Irish Catholic household), on Christmas Eve as well one would abstain from consuming meat to purify oneself.

The exact contours of the meal vary from region to region and household to household. Even the number of courses may vary, from three to seven to 12 or 13; three is postulated to represent the Holy Trinity, 12 or 13 to represent the Apostles, plus Jesus. The most widely followed number though is seven, and there are any number of possible significances for that "perfect" number: the seven days of creation, the seven sacraments, the seven deadly sins (my personal favorite), or the seven days it took Mary and Joseph to travel to Bethlehem; and seven is the most repeated number in the Bible.

Thus there is plenty of latitude allowed in creating your own version of this appealing tradition. Still, I found that many of the classic components involved ingredients that might not appeal to modern guests; salt cod is no longer the universal staple that it once was, and my long-ago girlfriend's mother informed me that her brother wouldn't eat the eel dishes unless he had first seen those slippery delights swimming in the kitchen sink! And often the cooking methods were less than healthy. So I set out to design a seven-course menu that hopefully would gratify the palate and fortify the system. Fried foods have given way to roast or seared, vegetables have moved front and center with the fish, and olive oil predominates over butter, but the essence of the feast remains the same.

And away we go!

Antipasti
White anchovies, assorted olives, chunks of Locatelli pecorino romano and crispy flatbreads

If you've never had white anchovies, you're in for a treat. Possessed of a firm, creamy white flesh and delicate taste, they bear no resemblance of any kind to those salty brown things in a tin. You'll find them at your nearest Italian deli or specialty store.

Soup
White bean, shrimp and fresh basil in vegetable broth

This delicate soup will adapt to any sort of fish you care to toss into it; shrimp is lovely, but so is halibut or monkfish or even a few fresh oysters. (See recipe below).

Pasta
Whole wheat capellini with olive oil, Dungeness crab, fresh snipped chives and truffled cheese

Just cook the angel hair pasta according to directions, toss with a few tablespoons of olive oil and a generous helping of crabmeat and the chives, then shred a snowfall of a firm Italian truffled cheese on top. And a grind or two of fresh black pepper couldn't hurt... Molto gusto!

Salad
Bay scallops, hearts of escarole, shredded Tuscan kale and wild arugula with lemon-balsamic vinaigrette

Toss the greens with a light balsamic and lemon vinaigrette (see recipe below), sear the scallops quickly in an olive-oil-moistened pan and scatter over the greens. For the more adventuresome, try calamari instead.

Entree
Roast white sea bass with mint pesto and sautéed rapini with olive oil, garlic and lemon zest

Any firm-fleshed white fish will be splendid here -- I love our local white sea bass, but consider red snapper, halibut, or cod as well. (See recipes below).

Cheese and fruit plate

I'd go with hard winter fruits, such as apple and pear; adding chunks of pomegranate plus a scattering of the seeds makes a stunning presentation. Select two or three firmer cheeses -- my favorites for this are an aged Manchego, an herbed Cotswold cheddar and the rest of that Italian truffled cheese from the salad!

Biscotti and Chocolate-dipped dried fruits and Espresso with Cointreau

Splurge on some really authentic biscotti at the Italian deli. And though you can buy your chocolate-dipped fruit already prepared, it's so easy, and much nicer, to make your own. Start with some dried apricots, maybe some pineapple and figs as well; melt bittersweet chocolate, dip each piece of fruit into it to cover half, then chill on a wax-paper-covered platter.

The Final Word

It's all about togetherness and sharing and loved ones -- and what could be more perfect for the holidays? Platter everything "family-style," pass it around with love, and wash it all down with a generous cascade of Italian wine. It's a joyous opportunity to celebrate all that makes Christmas "the most wonderful time of the year."

White Bean, Shrimp and Basil Soup

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
1 quart organic vegetable broth
1 cup cooked white beans
1 cup chopped raw shrimp
1/4 cup shredded fresh basil

In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, cook shallots and garlic in oil until softened, about two minutes. Add vegetable broth and bring to a boil. Add white beans, reduce heat, and simmer for 15 minutes. Add shrimp and continue to simmer until shrimp are barely opaque, about two minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Ladle into bowls, garnish with basil and serve.

Serves four.

Lemon Balsamic Vinaigrette

1/4 cup aged balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons water
1 teaspoon minced shallot
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

Combine first six ingredients in a jar and shake vigorously to combine. Add the olive oil and shake again. Taste, and adjust as you like with a little more balsamic or oil.

Roast White Sea Bass with Mint Pesto

3/4 pound white sea bass, cut into 4 pieces
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1/2 cup fresh mint leaves
1/2 cup Italian flat-leaf parsley leaves
2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
Grind of black pepper

Preheat oven to 425.

Make pesto: in a food processor, combine two tablespoons of olive oil, mint, parsley, pine nuts, lemon juice and salt and pepper; purée until smooth but with a slightly coarse texture. Set aside.

Moisten sea bass with remaining tablespoon of olive oil, place on foil-covered baking sheet. Roast in preheated oven until opaque and just cooked through, about 10-14 minutes (depending on thickness of fish). Transfer to plates, top each piece of fish with a dollop of pesto, lay some rapini alongside (see below), and serve immediately.

Serves four.

Seared Rapini

1 large bunch rapini, woody stems removed and leafy part coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 teaspoon minced garlic
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
1/2 teaspoon microplaned lemon zest

In a large heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. Add garlic (and red pepper flakes, if you like it hot!) and cook for one minute, stirring constantly. Add rapini and cook, stirring often, for three minutes; add two tablespoons water, cover and cook until tender, about five minutes. Sprinkle with lemon zest and serve.

[A version of this post appears in the December issue of Better Nutrition Magazine.]

Marvelous Melons: Making the Most of Summer

2012-07-30T09:39:11-04:00

First things first: you know that ubiquitous greenish-orange round melon covered in a curious netted pattern that we've been calling a cantaloupe ever since we could handle three-syllable words? It is actually correctly identified as a muskmelon, not that our moms had ever even heard the word. A true cantaloupe, named after the Italian papal village of Cantalup, is mostly to be found only in Europe; it is heavily ribbed and lacks the distinctive surface webbing so familiar to melon-lovers here in the States.

Fortunately for those of us who savor the delights of sweet-fleshed melons, European varieties can occasionally be had these days at your local farmers market or health food emporium, and right now is high season for them. If you can find a Charentais, scoop it up immediately -- these small ambrosial melons are definitely one of the foods of the gods!

But your standard cantaloupe -- let's continue to give it that name, to avoid confusion and dissension in the ranks -- is no slacker. A Middle Eastern proverb puts it this way: "He who fills his stomach with melons is like he who fills it with light -- there is a blessing in them."

Blessings are indeed to be had in abundance from this delightful fruit that goes right to the head of the class. The U.S Department of Agriculture, in its Healthy Meals literature for schools, promotes the cantaloupe as a "good source of potassium, vitamin A and C." Vitamin A has been proven to be especially important for vision health, contributing to a reduced risk of cataracts and age-related macular degeneration. And a study at Kansas State University found that Vitamin A can help to offset the deleterious effects of second-hand smoke and to ward off emphysema.

Vitamin C, of course, is a powerful antioxidant; the Office of Dietary Supplements at the National Institutes of Health notes that "ongoing research is examining whether vitamin C, by limiting the damaging effects of free radicals through its antioxidant activity, might help prevent or delay the development of certain cancers, cardiovascular disease, and other diseases..." Not too shabby for something that can definitely satisfy the most demanding sweet tooth!

For maximum deliciousness and nutrition, be sure to choose the ripest melons you can find. They should be smooth and blemish-free, with no soggy spots; the underlying color should tend more to orange than to green; and the stem end should be smooth and slightly concave, with no pieces of stem still attached. When raised to your nose, the melon should give off a slight sweet fragrance (though an overpowering or cloying sweetness may indicate over-ripeness and interior decay).

Store whole melons in the crisper drawer of the fridge if possible -- the higher moisture level and colder temperature there is optimal.

Eaten out of hand, cut up on your cereal, pureed in a smoothie, folded into some yogurt or enjoyed in the recipes below -- be sure to indulge in this fragrant and felicitous fruit as often as possible!

A Word of Caution

Because cantaloupes grow on vines that allow them to rest on the soil, thorough cleaning and proper handling are especially important. That attractive raised webbing on the surface has its downside -- bacteria, including Salmonella and E. Coli find it an especially hospitable place to cling and hide.

The Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources at UC Davis recommends scrubbing the whole melon with a vegetable brush under running water, then blotting dry with a paper towel, to remove possible bacteria. Start with a clean cutting board and knife, and while cutting, be sure to rinse the knife repeatedly. Lastly, if not eating immediately, wrap the cut melon tightly and refrigerate immediately; this will help to inhibit the growth of bacteria.

Cantaloupe Salsa

Top a nice piece of grilled fish with this zesty salsa...

1 cup diced cantaloupe
1/3 cup diced jicama
2 tablespoons thinly sliced scallions
1 tablespoon minced red bell pepper
1 teaspoon minced fresh Serrano chile (optional)
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon sugar

Combine all ingredients, let sit for an hour or so.

Makes @ 1 ½ cups.

Cantaloupe & Watermelon Salad With Feta & Mint

A cool and refreshing side salad for a hot summer's day...

2 cups cubed cantaloupe (1-inch cubes)
2 cups cubed watermelon (same)
3 ounces crumbled French feta (I use Valbreso)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon safflower oil
1 teaspoon walnut oil
1 teaspoon honey

Toss cantaloupe and watermelon with chopped mint. Mound on a curved platter, scatter feta over the fruit.

Whisk together the lime juice, safflower oil, walnut oil & honey, then drizzle over fruit.

Serves six as a side dish.

[A version of this post appears in my "Eat Smart" column in the July issue of Better Nutrition Magazine.]

Back to Your Roots: Rediscovering Turnips and Rutabagas

2012-03-05T14:27:45-05:00

Ask a random passerby when was the last time he or she had turnips, and you're likely to get one of the following responses: "Hmm-mm -- 1973?" or "Not since my mother made me eat them when I was six" or -- the most likely -- "Huh?"

The turnip has largely fallen into oblivion these days, especially in North America, but once upon a time it was a valued root crop for much of the civilized world. The Greeks and Romans, well back into the BC centuries, prized them highly; Pliny the Elder sang the praises of the turnip, opining that "its utility surpasses that of any other plant", and Sappho classically referred to one of her sultry paramours with the affectionate nickname "turnip" (in Ancient Greek, of course). Before the ubiquitous potato, the turnip was a staple crop for numerous civilizations. Now, alas, it has been consigned to the margins of various ethnic cuisines.

And that's a shame, because not only are turnips quite delicious when properly prepared, but as a member of the cruciferous family of vegetables, they are also very good for you. And don't neglect to eat the green tops as well, for they too are an excellent source of nutrients.

So it's time to add turnips and their greens to your arsenal of beneficial veggies. Your local health food store or farmers market will likely provide you with the freshest and sweetest turnips to be found. The roots should be smooth and unblemished, the greens should be crisp and dark green. Cut off the greens and store them separately; the roots will keep for several weeks in the fridge, the greens should be used within a few days for maximum nutritional benefit.

Wherefore Art Thou Rutabaga?

When I was a kid, there was almost always a waxy, orange-shading-to-purple small bowling ball of a vegetable in the root basket in my Irish Mom's pantry. She called it a turnip, and so for many years I did too. But it was actually a rutabaga -- thought to be a cross between a wild turnip and cabbage -- and she used to combine it with mashed potatoes for a most toothsome Gaelic dish.

They're somewhat more difficult to locate these days and may be identified as a "Swede" (their nomenclature in much of the world outside North America) or "neep" (by the Scots), but they are well worth the effort to seek them out. Sweeter and tenderer than turnips, they are rich in beta-carotene and packed with Vitamin A.

Asian-Style Braised Baby Turnips

This simple dish is perfect with teriyaki ahi or chicken...

3 lbs. small white turnips w/ tops

3 tablespoons white miso

1 1/4 cups water

2 tablespoons sake

1/2 teaspoon minced fresh lemongrass

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro leaves

Trim turnips and cut in half; discard stems, chop greens and set aside.

In a medium saucepan, combine turnips, miso, water, sake & lemongrass. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until just tender, about 10-15 minutes. Add greens, return to a boil, and cook uncovered until liquid is reduced to a glaze, about 5 minutes. Transfer to warm serving dish; drizzle with sesame oil and sprinkle with cilantro.

Serves four as a side dish.

Smashed Rutabagas & Yukon Gold Potatoes

This hearty offering pairs beautifully with a nice slow-cooked pot roast on a wet chilly winter's day...

2 lbs. rutabagas, peeled & cut into 2-inch pieces

2 lbs. Yukon Gold potatoes (or other yellow-type potato)

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons organic butter

2 tablespoons horseradish

2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives

In a large pot, cook potatoes in water to cover until soft, about 25 to 30 minutes; drain, then return to heat and dry a bit for about one minute, shaking pot. Transfer to large warm bowl.

At the same time, in another large pot cook rutabagas in water to cover until tender, about 15 to 20 minutes; drain, then return to heat and dry a bit for about one minute, shaking pot. Transfer to bowl with potatoes.

Lightly smash the potatoes and rutabagas with a masher; add olive oil & butter and smash a little more. Stir in horseradish and chives, and salt and pepper to taste.

Serves six to eight as a side dish.

[Note: A version of this post appears in my column "Eat Smart" in the March issue of Better Nutrition Magazine.]

Forget The Gold -- Go For The Greens!

2012-02-10T12:08:37-05:00

If you've spent a New Years Day in the Deep South, then you know that nothing starts the year off right like a "mess o' greens." For luck and good fortune, you simply must have black-eyed peas and greens on the first day of the year; oh, and don't forget the cornbread to soak up the "pot likker" -- the liquid the greens are cooked in.

Actually, you'll get a lot more than just good luck from your New Years greens. The cruciferous veggies usually found in the stewpot are a concentrated source of good health as well. Collards, kale and mustard greens -- the classic triumvirate -- provide a plenitude of protection against many of the ills that might befall you in the ensuing year.

As we all know by now the cruciferous family of vegetables, which encompasses broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage as well as many greens, plays a vital role in cancer prevention. It is here that greens shine the brightest; they provide nutritional support for the three body systems that are involved with cancer development and prevention: detox, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory.

The array of antioxidant phytonutrients to be found in these three greens is staggering -- well over 45 and counting. They contribute to a reduction in oxidative stress and chronic inflammation, two factors that can lead to numerous maladies, including cataracts and heart disease but especially cancer. These same compounds can make a marked contribution to lowering cholesterol, by binding the bile acids in our intestines to allow them to pass safely out of the body. And by contributing to a higher effectiveness in both phases of the body's detox process, they can provide protection against the environmental stresses that our bodies inevitably endure in this polluted age.

So even if you live in cold northern climes and have never whiled away a muggy Southern afternoon in a rocking chair on the porch with a mint julep in hand, it's time to get yourself a mess o' greens on a regular basis. Here are a few tips to get you started:

Always choose greens that are bright and crisp, with no yellow or brown spots, and no discolored edges or small holes. Colors should be vibrant; yellow leaves means they're long past fresh, and have lost much of their nutritive value.

If you can, select smaller leaves rather than larger -- they're sweeter and less bitter.

Let the leaves sit for a few minutes after you chop them, before using; it amplifies the nutritional value. And cooking accomplishes the same thing -- cooked greens have a far denser nutritional profile.

Store for no more than a few days, in the coldest part of the fridge, in a zip-lock bag with most of the air squeezed out.

Check Your Greens IQ

Did you know that:

... greens were growing wild in Asia and the Mediterranean before recorded history?

... when the first African slave ship arrived in Virginia in 1619, collards were already abundant?

... during the Middle Ages, kale was one of the most common vegetables across all of Europe?

... plantation slaves used ham hocks in their greens because their masters would not eat these "scraps"?

... in Brazil, a juice made from collards is favored as a remedy for gout and bronchitis?

... on Halloween in Ireland, the traditional dish called colcannon is made with mashed potatoes and kale?

... mustard greens are used to remove heavy metals from contaminated soil in hazardous waste sites?

... an old superstition in the South holds that hanging a collard leaf over the door will ward off evil spirits?

Mess o' Slow-Cooked Greens

This traditional Southern dish is perfect with a roast chicken and mashed potatoes... and of course, black-eyed peas!

2 cups organic low-sodium chicken broth
4 bunches fresh greens (collard, kale, mustard),
stems removed and coarsely chopped
6 whole cloves garlic, peeled
4 spring onions, cut into one-inch pieces
1 smoked ham hock (or use a smoked turkey drumstick)
1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

In a large heavy pot, bring broth to a boil. Add remaining ingredients, return to a boil. Reduce heat to low, and barely simmer for about 1-1/2 hours, stirring occasionally.

Remove ham hock (or turkey drumstick); shred the meat, discarding all skin, fat and bones, and return meat to pot. Crush garlic cloves with a fork and give the whole pot a good stir.

Serves four.

Spicy Kale & Pinto Bean Soup

A tasty treat that makes a perfect light supper paired with a crunchy green salad and a whole wheat baguette...

2 tablespoons canola oil
1 small brown onion, chopped
1/2 teaspoon ancho chile powder
3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 teaspoon chopped fresh red jalapeno
6 cups organic vegetarian broth
2 bunches kale, stems removed and leaves chopped
2 cans organic pinto beans, drained and rinsed
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves

Heat oil in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add onions and chile powder, cook until onions are barely translucent, stirring often, about five minutes. Add garlic and jalapeno and cook, stirring, for another minute. Add broth and bring to a boil. Add kale and pinto beans, bring back to a boil, then reduce heat and keep at a high simmer until kale is wilted and cooked through, about 8-10 minutes.

Remove from heat, stir in cilantro, and serve immediately.

Serves four.

[Note: A version of this post appears in my "Eat Smart" column in the January issue of Better Nutrition Magazine.]

Strategies For Healthy Holiday Feasting

2011-12-14T15:23:00-05:00

Let me say right up front -- I am the last person to espouse a Grinch-like attitude toward the holidays. Christmas was always a huge deal in our household when I was growing up, and the delights of the table were front and center. Family and friends gathering together to celebrate with good food and festive spirits was, and is, essential to the season for me.

But I'm afraid the days of a youthful ability to consume any and all foods with no discernable effect are, for most of us, shrouded in the mists of Christmas Past! So I have discovered that if you adhere to a few common-sense guidelines as you totter through the seasonal minefield of office parties, neighborhood potlucks and family get-togethers, you can feast and frolic without incurring an excessive shroud of post-holiday guilt.

Beware The Buffet

If you are to avoid being seduced and abandoned by the office party buffet, you must approach it with a definite strategy and a firm resolve.

1. Never let your eyes be bigger than your stomach (as my Granny used to say). Don't pile it on -- you can always come back for more.

2. Start with the protein. Give yourself a decent serving of the chicken or fish or whatever before piling on the carbs. And have a drizzle of sauce, not a deluge.

3. Vegetables and salads are not a penance, they're a pleasure -- put them on your plate next. Really, they taste just as good as the potatoes au gratin. Okay, almost as good...

4. Limit your carbs and fat. If you go for the mac and cheese (and how can you not), eschew the mashed potatoes with gravy and the creamed corn.

The dessert buffet is far and away the bigger challenge. All I can say is, pick out one or two must-have favorites, and try to stop up your ears (and mouth) to the siren song of all those other tempting treats. Under no circumstances should you attempt to "sample 'em all" -- that way lies madness and an ever-expanding waistline.

Tame The Demon Rum

We won't concern ourselves with the social fallout from an over-indulgence in spirits -- sad tales of lampshades worn as hats and intimate sessions hugging cold porcelain are legendary. The deleterious effects of excessive alcohol consumption extend to our dietary calculations as well -- all those useless carbs can pile up, right on your thighs. So...

1. Water it down and make it tall. That vodka will last longer, and do less harm, when combined with a generous pour of cranberry juice and tonic.

2. Alternate. That cranberry and tonic will look and taste much the same without the vodka.

3. Keep your water glass busy. That wine with dinner is delightful, but don't let it be your only beverage.

And remember -- you don't need alcohol to have a good time. Seriously.

Say When

This is the cardinal rule governing food and drink during the holidays. I know, I know -- it's tough. But so are you, you can do it; here are a few tricks that will help.

1. Eat slowly. Give your stomach time to register that it's full. You may not need that second trip to the buffet after all.

2. More food does not equal more love. Your mom is telling you "Eat! Eat! You're nothing but skin and bones." You know better. "Thanks, it was great! But I'm full."

3. You do not have to finish every last morsel on your plate. Contrary to what we were told as kids, it will have no direct effect on "starving children in Europe."

4. Discipline your mouth. Sure, another slice of that pot roast would taste awfully good, and a second wedge of chocolate cake sounds mighty fine, but is the oral gratification worth the bloated discomfort that will surely follow? (The correct answer to that question would be "no.")

"Moderation" is not a four-letter word, it's a desirable and achievable goal that will enhance your enjoyment of this festive time of year.

So go ahead, sally forth and spread the generous spirit of the holidays to your family and friends. And if you follow these few suggestions, you may be able to eliminate that "need to diet" resolution from your New Year's list!

Easy Bison Chili

A lean and tasty dish that is perfect for your contribution to a holiday pot-luck supper

Ingredients

4 lbs. ground bison (you can substitute ground dark-meat turkey)
3 tbsp. olive oil
2 medium brown onions, chopped
6 cloves garlic, minced
4 tbsp. chili powder
3 10-oz. cans Ro-tel chopped tomatoes with green chiles
2 bottles dark beer (I use Guinness)
2 15-oz. cans organic red beans
2 cups frozen corn kernels
Salt and pepper to taste

Garnish

Shredded sharp cheddar
Chopped red onions

Directions

In a large heavy pot, sauté onions in olive oil over medium heat for three minutes, then add garlic and cook for one minute more. Increase heat and add bison and chili powder, cook until browned, stirring and breaking it up often, about five minutes. Add Ro-tel tomatoes with juice, beer and red beans, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring often, for one hour. Add corn, salt and pepper, cook for 15 minutes more. Ladle into bowls and serve with the cheddar and onions on the side.

Can be made in advance and re-heated -- in fact, it's better that way!

Festive Fruit Punch

This fizzy treat has minimal alcohol and maximum flavor!

Ingredients

1 can frozen lemonade
1 can frozen limeade
1 can frozen orange juice
1 cup pomegranate juice
2 750 ml bottles sparkling water
1 750 ml bottle sparkling lemonade
1 750 ml bottle champagne

Directions

Combine frozen juices and pomegranate juice in a large punch bowl, stir to combine. Add sparkling water and lemonade, stir gently until blended. Add LOTS of ice, then champagne, and serve.

(To make this really festive, freeze raspberries and mint leaves into a ring of ice in a 10-inch circular mold and float it in the punch bowl. And to make a nonalcoholic version, just double the sparkling lemonade and leave out the champagne.)

A version of this post appears in my "Eat Smart" column in the December issue of Better Nutrition magazine.

Organic Turkey? Check! Organic Veggies? Check! Organic Wine? Wait a Sec...

2011-11-14T14:38:57-05:00

Now that the overwhelmingly gustative holiday season is nearly upon us, thoughts of turkeys and sweet potatoes and other culinary delights begin to intrude upon our everyday cogitations. Those of us who strive for a reasonable degree of environmental consciousness in our menu planning of course envision as much as possible of our feasting done in an organic mode. Surely we can extend that to the vino that graces our table as well?

"Organic" wine. A simple and desirable notion, yes? You grow some organic grapes, you turn them into wine, and voila, organic wine. Or so I thought. It turns out that environmentally responsible wine-making is considerably more complicated, and consequently controversial, than that straightforward paradigm.

There's big-O "Organic," which means one thing in the U.S. and other things in other countries -- and wine being the global affair that it is, there's your first complication. And there's small-o "organic" which is organic in practice but not officially certified. Then there's "natural," and "biodynamic," and "sustainable," each with its own rules and methods and proponents. What's an environmentally conscientious oenophile to do?

Here in the U.S., if you want to go organic, it comes down to a choice between "USDA Organic" and "made with organic grapes." The big difference? The official designation requires that there be no added sulfites in the winemaking process; and yet according to many vinicultural experts, wine without sulfites is merely fermented grape juice and will spoil quickly. And the certification process is lengthy, difficult, and expensive, which places small producers at a distinct disadvantage -- and they are the ones most likely to espouse environmentally-sound practices.

Even more difficult to locate and encourage, since there are no legally-defined designations, are the more emphatically environmental practices. "Natural" winemaking generally involves organic grapes that are processed with local wild yeasts and minimal sulfites; a sub-set of this would be "biodynamic," which has its own particular set of rules. "Sustainable" refers to the entire process of cultivation, which would begin with composting and companion planting for insect control, and sometimes proceed to providing areas for wildlife and minimizing emissions with the use of horse-drawn ploughs.

To locate these wines, you would need to research wineries and their practices, or more easily, find yourself a knowledgeable and friendly wine store clerk or two and shop with their recommendations.

But when all is said and done, the most important thing is deliciousness in the glass, right? So with a little leg-work and a lot of sampling (not such a horrifying task after all), you should be able to locate some really tasty vintages that will satisfy both your palate and your conscience.

My own recent searches led me to my favorite local BevMo store and, with the cordial help of a very well-versed associate there, a little-known family-owned winery called "Vigilance", with whom they have an exclusive relationship. These are wines that fall under the "sustainable" category, and provide a clear picture of exactly what that can involve -- the husbandry, the safeguards, and the passionate commitment required to create wines that are careful of the earth and its denizens. All that appealed to me, naturally, but "the proof is in the pudding", as my Irish grandmother used to say, or in this case, in the wine. I sampled bottles of their Petite Sirah and their "Cimarron" blend; both were awesome! I look forward to working my way through their entire line-up. Be sure to check them out in your vinous peregrinations...

Need a Little Justification? Try the "French Paradox"

For centuries, wine has been used for both medication and pleasure. But the modern world has had little use for it beyond its perceived gustatory and inebriative effects, until a series of studies in the 1980's and '90's postulated the "French Paradox" -- to wit, that the French, in spite of their high-fat and intense-dairy diet, had a much lower rate of heart disease than the Americans and British who consumed a similar diet. The dietary difference? Those little glasses of red wine that the French enjoyed with almost every meal.

The main factor in the science is thought to be the polyphenol resveratrol, which is found in the skin of the grapes; thus red wine, which remains in contact with the skins longer in the fermentation process, has a higher concentration of this useful compound. Studies have shown that it can reduce the risk of heart disease with its blood-thinning capabilities, and by lowering levels of "bad" cholesterol. There is also evidence that it helps prevent DNA mutations that may lead to cancer formation.

All things in moderation, of course; excessive amounts of any alcohol, including wine, are undesirable. But a glass or two of red wine with dinner -- why yes please!

Here are a few healthy ways to get your red wine on:

Easy Peasy Coq au Vin

2 tablespoons olive oil
4-5 pound pastured organic fryer chicken, cut into pieces
2 1/2 cups organic red wine
2 1/2 cups organic chicken broth
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon thyme
1 large bay leaf
4 strips turkey bacon, cooked & crumbled into large pieces
8-ounce bag frozen peeled organic pearl onions
8 ounces white button mushrooms, quartered
1 cup frozen organic peas, heated at last minute

In a large deep skillet just big enough to hold the chicken pieces in one layer, heat olive oil over medium-high heat; sauté chicken in oil until golden, about 4 minutes on a side. Remove chicken from pan; add wine, broth, garlic powder, thyme & bay leaf; bring to a boil. Return chicken to pan, along with bacon, onions and mushrooms. Reduce heat to medium low, cover, and simmer, turning chicken and stirring occasionally, until chicken is tender, about 1 1/2 hours.

Remove chicken to a large shallow bowl; increase heat and reduce liquid by about a third, then pour over chicken. Scatter peas across the top and serve with egg noodles or boiled new potatoes.

Serves 2-4.

Classic Mulled Wine

1 bottle robust red wine (I like Zinfandel for this)
1 cup fresh-squeezed orange juice
2 tablespoons organic honey
1 cinnamon stick
3 cloves
2 star anise
4 black peppercorns
Sprinkle of nutmeg
4 two-inch strips of orange zest
Double thickness piece of cheesecloth, @ 7 inches on a side

Combine wine, orange juice and honey in a large pot. Place spices and orange zest in the middle of the cheesecloth square, bring up the four corners to form a pouch and tie it closed with butcher's twine; add to pot. Slowly bring to a boil, then reduce to a bare simmer for about 20 minutes. Turn off heat, leave on stove. Ladle into mugs and serve.

De-Mystifying Whole Grains

2011-09-16T08:18:24-04:00

By this time, we all pretty much know that we're supposed to be eating whole grains, and lots of them. But if you're anything like me, your notion of exactly what constitutes a "whole grain" (as opposed to what, a "partial grain" or a "half-hearted grain"?) is seriously fuzzy. And exactly how are they obtained from those vast "amber waves of grain," whose virtues we extol in song?

A recent tour of the wonderful Bob's Red Mill in Portland, Ore. opened my eyes to all sorts of new information -- though it's old information really, since the milling of grains has been going on for millennia. As far back as the Greek and Roman civilizations, water-powered mills were grinding whole grains to make an array of tasty and healthful foodstuffs.

I learned that a "whole grain" consists of the bran (outer coating), germ (inner heart) and endosperm (central portion). To be considered and labeled "whole," a grain must have all three components, in the proportions in which they are found in nature. So technically, it is permissible to separate the components and recombine them, as long as the amounts and proportions remain the same.

That's where it can get fairly complicated for us poor consumers, trying to sort out exactly what we're getting in various products on the grocery shelves. We know how beneficial whole grains can be, that they can reduce the risks of multiple maladies, including cancer, heart disease and diabete. They provide fiber, complex carbohydrates and protein, all in one tiny little package. And the most recent Dietary Guidelines for Americans, published by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, recommend that more than half of our grain intake consist of whole grains, while noting that 95 percent of Americans currently do not achieve this goal. But boy, are all those labels confusing: "Whole wheat" doesn't necessarily mean "whole grain," nor does "nine grain," "multi-grain" or any other "grain."

Here are a few tips to clear away some of the uncertainty:

For flour, cornmeal and such: Look for "whole grain." Avoid the words "refined," "enriched," "bleached" and "bromated."

For cereals: Make sure the first ingredient is designated "whole" -- whole corn, rice, etc. (Try my new favorite -- Uncle Sam's Whole Wheat Berry Flakes with Wild Strawberries.) Oh, and watch out for the sugar content.

For breads: Read that label! Again, the first ingredient should be a "whole grain." Just because it's brown doesn't mean it's whole grain -- molasses may have been used to give it that "whole wheat look."

Buy and cook products that are, by their nature, whole grains: brown rice, rolled oats, quinoa and popcorn -- yes, popcorn!

I hope this brief bit of basic information will make it easier to reach and surpass that daily requirement of "three servings of whole grains." Try oatmeal for breakfast (or some great corn-blueberry muffins -- see below), make a little grain-and-veggie salad for lunch, have a satisfying brown rice pilaf with your dinner and give yourself and your family the amazing whole-grain health you deserve.

Not Your Mother's White Bread

Some of my most potent sensory memories of childhood revolve around a sandwich -- to be precise, a PB&J on Wonder bread. That soft, squishy white bread enclosing a thick smear of smooth peanut butter (Skippy's) and grape jelly (Welch's, of course), accompanied by a cold glass of full-fat milk, was a treat of the highest order. Compromised nutrition, sure, but oh so delicious.

Nowadays, the milk is still cold but non-fat, and the sandwich is organic chunky 100 percent-peanut butter and sugar-free fruit spread on whole-grain bread -- satisfying, nutritious, but not quite as heavenly.

So imagine my delight when attending the Whole Grains Conference in Portland, Ore. to discover there is such a thing as white whole wheat, and it is rapidly becoming an acceptable and even desirable replacement for bleached, half-hearted refined white flour. There is actually a "white" strain of wheat (the traditional variety is red), with all the nutrition of red wheat but not the darker color (so off-putting to children, right?). So okay, it's not blindingly white, like the nutritionally-challenged loaves of yore -- more like a vanilla shade -- but it's still eminently appealing. And you can even find it without too much trouble -- King Arthur makes an organic whole white wheat flour that produces awesome baking results, and it can be found in markets across the country.

And that Wonder bread? I'm thrilled to report that it is now made with whole white wheat! And I for one intend to relive my childhood PB&J delight at the earliest possible opportunity.

To get you started, here are a couple of my favorite recipes that provide a decent dose of whole grains:

Boosted Tabbouleh

This souped-up version of a Middle Eastern classic provides a wealth of nutritional benefits and tastes awesome! Serve it as a dinner side dish with grilled anything, or over salad greens for a satisfying lunch.

½ cup bulghur wheat
1 cup water
1 teaspoon microplaned lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 1/2 cups chopped fresh parsley leaves, well-dried
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint leaves, well-dried
1 cup chopped seeded heirloom tomatoes, well-drained
1 cup chopped Persian cucumbers
1/2 cup chopped green onions
2 tablespoons chopped red onion
3/4 cup frozen soy beans, thawed
1 teaspoon minced fresh red jalapeno (optional, if you like a little heat!)
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice (approx.)
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

In a medium saucepan, combine the bulghur and water and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let it sit, covered, for 15-20 minutes. Spread bulghur over a paper-towel-lined baking sheet, and chill for 20 minutes.

In a large bowl, combine bulghur with lemon zest, cumin and salt, fluff with a fork. Gently stir in all remaining ingredients. Taste for lemon -- it should be bright and distinctly lemon-y; add more lemon if necessary, and salt and pepper to taste.

Best if thoroughly chilled before serving. Serves 4-6.

Basic Blueberry Corn Muffins

Instead of cereal and fruit, start your day with these yummy treats and a little Greek yoghurt.

1 cup white whole-wheat flour
1 cup whole-grain cornmeal (I use Bob's Red Mill, medium grind)
1 1/2 tablespoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 stick organic unsalted butter, divided and melted
1 large organic egg
1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons honey
1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 cup 2% milk
2 cups fresh blueberries

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Moisten a 12-cup muffin tin with PAM spray.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt. In a small bowl whisk the egg, then whisk in 1/4 cup honey, 1/4 cup brown sugar, 6 tablespoons melted butter and the milk. Pour egg mixture over dry ingredients, stir just to combine. Fold in blueberries. Divide equally in muffin tin, bake for about 20 minutes, until a toothpick comes out clean. Cool briefly, turn out onto a cooling rack.

Combine remaining 2 tablespoons each of butter, honey and brown sugar, heat until bubbling, and spoon over muffin tops.

Makes 12 muffins.

[Note: a version of this post appears in my "Eat Smart" column in the September issue of Better Nutrition Magazine.]

Photo credits: Neil Zevnik

Berry Good For You

2011-08-16T08:31:56-04:00

Many more years ago than I care to acknowledge, when I was a wee nipper in rolled-up pants and short-sleeve shirts, my brother Brian and I used to look forward every spring to visiting a local patch of woods up the street in suburban New York. Equipped with a basket or bowl of some sort, we would push our way through the underbrush to a menacing stand of prickly stalks displaying clusters of dark and delicious berries. Scratches were inevitable, but so were berry stains on our shirts and gladness in our tummies as we popped two berries in our mouths for every one that went into the container.

I can't tell you exactly what those berries were, and it is astonishing now to discover how many possible variations there were, and are, when it comes to bramble berries. There are raspberries and blackberries, of course, but also the children and grandchildren of crosses between raspberries and blackberries -- loganberries, youngberries, boysenberries, marionberries and my personal hard-to-find favorite, olallieberries. And oh, the many types of raspberries to be found: Killarney, Augusta, Newburgh, Cumberland and Bristol may all be geographical destinations, but they're also cultivars of raspberries, along with the more fanciful Autumn Bliss, Black Hawk and Cascade Delight, to name just a few.

But what all these succulent treats have in common is a serious helping of unique nutrients that offer protection against any number of incipient maladies. First and foremost is the antioxidant ellagic acid, which is largely exclusive to these berries; combined with several anthocyanins also present in generous amounts, it proves to be a formidable fighter against the formation of cancer cells, especially in the colon, by neutralizing free radicals. And these same components have been shown to have antimicrobial properties as well, helping to control yeast infections and irritable bowel syndrome.

And it doesn't stop there. A remarkably high fiber content due to the aggregate structure of the fruit, combined with a massive dose of Vitamin C and plenty of manganese and B-vitamins, contributes to placing these berries at the top of the fruit-heap for antioxidant strength. And remember that old adage, "The darker the berry, the sweeter the juice"? Well, it's "the healthier" the juice too -- those deep dark colors indicate the presence of a plethora of anthocyanins in every delectable mouthful.

And while we'll probably never use the rest of the plant ourselves, it's fascinating to learn that the Native American tribes in the Pacific Northwest used all parts of the blackberry plant: the powdered bark relieved toothache, the root alleviated dysentery and the leaves steeped in a tea provided gastric relief.

So get going now -- spring and early summer are prime-time for local berries. Get yourself to your favorite farmers market and give yourself and your family a sweet seasonal treat.

First and most important, I believe in trying to go organic. These beauties are fragile, and washing can be difficult, so it's especially important that they be free of pesticides. Berries should be dark-hued, firm and plump-looking. Keep an eye out for mold, and make sure no berries are crushed, especially if buying in a container -- crushed fruit will deteriorate rapidly; note if there's any juice-wetness along the sides or bottom, and avoid those. Use as quickly as possible -- they'll keep in the fridge for only a day or two (though they can be frozen without loss of nutrients).

A Digression: The Mighty and Mysterious Mulberry

When was the last time you sampled a mulberry? Right, probably never. Despite having been around for millennia, and despite being a staple in multiple cultures for a myriad of benefits, it is largely unknown here in the United States. But if you ever get a chance to indulge, by all means do -- they are sweet, subtle and altogether delicious.

I remember my first encounter with them, in New York's Central Park in the spring. I would walk up the street from my tiny apartment and wander into the park, where I would suddenly come upon a frenzy of birds, of all sizes and kinds, delightedly consuming hundreds of long dark narrow berries that littered the sidewalks under these tall graceful trees. They looked so tempting I wanted to shoo the birds away and scoop up a few, but I was unsure that they were fit for human consumption, so I refrained, and missed out on a rare treat. Years later, their splendor was revealed to me by a farmers market friend; now I pounce on them whenever they come my way.

Their dark color reveals that they have the same anthocyanins as the bramble berries, and therefore some of the same health benefits to be sure. Traditionally, all components of the tree are used in Chinese medicine: the berry itself to enrich the blood, the bark for bronchial relief, the twig for arthritis and immune functions, and the leaf for fever and headache. But the mulberry has another use, one which is wholly singular and vitally important to the worlds of art, interior design and fashion.

It is the leaf that brings us to this unique function of the mulberry, as the leaves are the sole food for silkworms. Chinese paintings on silk, an Armani silk gown on the red carpet, a polished-silk wall-covering in milady's boudoir -- all these owe their existence to the mulberry leaf.

Healthful, delicious fruit and gorgeous versatile fabric, not to mention multiple homeopathic remedies -- what more could you ask of a tree?

In any event, whatever berries may be found in your locale -- find 'em, buy 'em, and eat 'em! And they're not just for out-of-hand enjoyment; dazzle and delight your family and friends with these simple and gratifying dishes ...

Chicken Cutlets w/ Port & Olallieberry Sauce

This light and easy dish paired with brown rice and grilled asparagus makes a perfect summer dinner ...

4 6-ounce organic chicken breast cutlets, pounded thin
2 tablespoons organic canola oil
1/2 cup port wine
1/4 cup chicken broth
1 small basket of olallieberries (or substitute blackberries)
1/2 teaspoon minced fresh tarragon
1 tablespoon cold unsalted organic butter

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil. Sauté two chicken cutlets until just cooked through, about two minutes per side; remove to a sheet pan, cover and keep warm. Saute the other two cutlets the same way.

In a small saucepan, bring port, broth and berries to a boil; reduce heat and simmer until reduced by half. Remove from heat, swirl in butter and tarragon until butter is just melted and sauce is lightly thickened.

Divide chicken among four plates, spoon sauce w/ berries over each. Serve immediately.

Serves four.

Exotic Berry Fool

Local berries and honey from the farmers market make a refreshing dessert on those hot summer days...

1 quart of berries (mulberries, raspberries, olallieberries, blackberries)
2 cups plain greek-style yogurt
1 tablespoon local honey
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 cup crushed chocolate wafer cookies

In a medium bowl, stir together the yogurt, honey and vanilla. Fold in the berries. Divide among four chilled glass bowls, and sprinkle the tops with the crushed cookies. Refrigerate covered until ready to serve.

Serves four.

[A version of this post appears in my "Eat Smart" column in the August issue of Better Nutrition Magazine.]

How Thai Food Is Good For You

2011-06-21T08:41:35-04:00

Feeling a little short on cash these days? Plant some ginger in your yard, it will guarantee prosperity. Or maybe you're apprehensive about dragons and serpents? A few stands of lemongrass around your home should effectively repel them. Looking to attract and hold onto a lover? A bath perfumed with lemongrass should do the trick. Or so certain bits of folklore from around the world would have us believe!

Whether or not these tales are true (and I must confess to a slight skepticism), there are other benefits to be derived from these aromatic plants that are quantifiable and demonstrable. And rather than nutritional, the benefits to be found here are largely medicinal, with ginger and lemongrass (also known as "fever grass") proving to be helpful with combating an array of ailments.

Ginger's most prominent effect is gastro-intestinal. Got an upset stomach? Get ginger. Prone to motion sickness? Get ginger. Suffering with nausea from chemotherapy or morning sickness from pregnancy? Get ginger. Studies have proven that the ingestion of small amounts of ginger can eliminate intestinal gas and alleviate multiple symptoms of motion sickness; and because it has no known side-effects, ginger is especially useful for morning sickness in pregnant women, as it poses none of the risks that nausea medicines might create.

And its usefulness doesn't stop there. Ginger contains powerful anti-inflammatory compounds called gingerols. In numerous studies, consumption of ginger has been directly linked to relief from the pain and swelling of various types of arthritis and accompanied by increased mobility. It has also been persuasively suggested in several studies and experiments that gingerols may inhibit the growth of colorectal cancer cells -- and actually cause the death of ovarian cancer cells.

Lemongrass is a bit more modest and mundane in its benefits, but nonetheless helpful. In Ayurvedic medicine, it is used to alleviate coughs and nasal congestion. The essential oil derived from it is used to repel insects, employed in soaps as an antiseptic and applied to the skin to combat fungal infections. A friend of mine who grew up in the deep south informed me that whenever she had a fever as a child, her grandmother brewed a posset of "fever grass" to induce sweating and break the fever.

A recent study also suggests that lemongrass may share a property with ginger: Preliminary findings from research at Ben Gurion University in Israel indicated that in vitro, the active ingredient citral caused the death of cancer cells, while leaving normal cells untouched.

So whether you use them to treat an existing condition, or ward off a potential one, ginger and lemongrass are excellent additions to your culinary health arsenal. Maybe you won't get rich, or find a paramour, or even escape from dragons; but your body will thank you anyway!

The "Other" Ginger

If you're a fan of Asian cooking, as I am, you may have run across a recipe calling for galangal -- probably in a Thai soup or a Malaysian curry. These recipes often tell you that you can substitute ginger for galangal. Well, you can -- they're both in the same family; and that being so, galangal has the same beneficial effects as ginger in terms of intestinal fortitude and other characteristics.

They also look similar, though galangal is paler in hue and harder to cut (so be careful), but the flavor of the galangal is different from ginger -- more complex, nuanced and intriguing. Rather than the aggressive bite of ginger, you'll find a milder heat reminiscent of mustard, with hints of citrus and notes of pine and earth.

So when a recipe calls for galangal, make an effort to find some -- it'll give you a unique culinary treat. Most Asian markets will probably have some on hand, and it makes an awesomely subtle tea, complete with all the health benefits of ginger.

Use the same criteria for selection as you would for ginger: choose tubers that look fresh and tight-skinned (not wrinkled or splotchy) and free of mold; they should be heavy for their size, and have minimal "knobs." Store galangal wrapped in plastic in the fridge for up to two weeks, or in the freezer for up to two months.

Asian Rice Salad

Serve this with shredded lettuce as a light luncheon, or pair with some grilled teriyaki chicken and stir-fry veggies for a satisfying supper.

1 cup organic brown rice
1 cup vegetable broth
1 cup water
1 tablespoon peeled minced fresh ginger
1 teaspoon minced lemon grass, white part only
2/3 cup diced carrots
1/2 cup cooked green peas
1/3 cup sliced green onions

Dressing:
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon sesame oil
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon grated lime zest
1/2 teaspoon sambal oelek (hot chili sauce - optional)*

Combine rice, broth, water, ginger and lemongrass in a medium saucepan; bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until all liquid is absorbed -- about 40 minutes. Remove from heat, let sit for five minutes and then fluff with a fork. Allow to cool to room temperature, then stir in carrots, peas and green onions.

In a small jar, combine dressing ingredients and shake until well-combined. Transfer rice mix to serving bowl, toss with dressing and serve. (This can also be refrigerated for later use.)

Serves four.

*available at Asian markets and some supermarkets.

Invigorating Thai Iced Tea

1/4 cup peeled fresh ginger, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup diagonally-sliced lemongrass
8 green tea bags
1/4 cup organic honey
1 quart boiling water
1/2 cup lite organic coconut milk

Add ginger, lemongrass, green tea and honey to boiling water and let it steep for 10 minutes. Strain into a large beverage container; stir in coconut milk. Chill thoroughly. Serve over crushed ice with fresh mint.

A version of this post appears in my "Eat Smart" column in the June issue of Better Nutrition magazine.

Rolling Out the Red Carpet: A Different Hollywood Tale

2011-06-14T18:19:14-04:00

You can see the Hollywood sign from just about anywhere on the campus. Only a few miles away, it floats against a rippling ridgeline and a blue sky, a legendary symbol of glamor and riches that has inspired countless youths to pursue their lofty dreams.

But for most of the inhabitants of the neighborhood surrounding Apex Academy High School in East Hollywood, that sign might as well be on the moon. This is not the Hollywood of nightclubs and swank eateries and black-clad hipsters; it's another Hollywood, not as well-known or publicized, of gangbangers and teenage pregnancies and deportation hearings, of families torn and struggling, not to score their own reality show, but simply to survive intact to face another tough day.

Yet on Tuesday, June 21st, Apex will roll out the red carpet (literally), fire up the confetti cannons, and launch its very first graduating class to the thunderous applause of students who once barely dared to dream and who are now succeeding, in proverbial Hollywood parlance, "against all odds." This is a ceremony and a celebration for the entire community, to insist that everyone deserves a dream and the opportunity to create it.

And because of the fierce dedication of Alfonso Paz, the school's head counselor, and a selfless fairy godmother of an event planner who prefers to remain anonymous, the stripped-down and simple affair with coffee and cookies that a non-existent budget permitted has been transformed into a red-carpet event worthy of Hollywood's most notable stars.

Make no mistake -- these kids are stars. If persistence, talent, and dogged hard work in the face of nearly insuperable obstacles qualifies one for stardom, these students get billing above the title. Their stories read like a script right out of the mailroom at ICM; coming out of broken homes, some enduring abuse, others struggling with the allure of gangs, surrounded by drug use and crippling poverty, these are the kids that the "system" could find no place for. Their futures seemed to be pre-ordained and unrelentingly bleak; the first act ends with drugging, dropping out and despair.

But like an R-rated Bing Crosby flick, at the beginning of the second act along comes Apex Academy High School, the passionate undertaking of Principal Cesar Lopez and Mr. Paz. And yes, there are setbacks and losses and those who fall by the wayside, as in all heartwarming and heart-breaking tales of life, but through it all there are the requisite trials and tears and triumphs.

And come next Tuesday, the story will have its "Hollywood ending" for the very first graduating class of Apex High. Forty proud students will walk the red carpet, more than half of them on their way to a four-year college.

Thanks to the fairy godmother's event organizing talents and persuasive manner, the evening will be first-class all the way. Professional stylists will be on hand, courtesy of the Aveda Institute, to assist the ladies with their make-up and hair, and a professional photographer, Debbie LeFever, will be shooting the graduates in front of a donated limousine complete with chauffeur (courtesy of Mosaic Global Transportation). Swag bags will await, filled with goodies from generous contributors: t-shirts, DVDs and movie posters from Fox and Paramount; theatre tickets from the Geffen and inspirational card decks and books from Hayhouse Publishing; Fiji Water, POMx bars & Wonderful pistachios from Lynda Resnick; Karen Ard jewelry, Lisa Carrier candles, Poi Wear t-shirts, and hair products from Aveda and Sally Hershberger; and from Variety Children's Charity, Academy Award posters and statuettes.

And instead of coffee and store-bought cookies, there will be a dazzling culinary spread featuring platters from 44 Blue Productions and handmade sweets from a celebrity private chef.

As the final fade begins, the camera will pan across the faces of a community that has been given hope and respect and dreams, by people who believe that what matters in life is giving to others. And though the words "The End" will float there for a moment, for these students and all the many students who learn and grow at Apex High, this is only the beginning...

Oh, by the way, I understand there's still a little room in those swag bags if you'd like to slip in a little something; and the buffet could always use another platter or two -- you know how teenagers are with free food!

A New Paradigm? Now Serving: A Nice Dose of Healthy and a Healthy Dose of Nice

2011-05-19T18:09:44-04:00

Time was, opening a new restaurant in Los Angeles often involved offering a menu with any number of exotic ingredients from remote corners of the globe and fielding an intimidating staff with a whole lot of attitude. But as the classic Dylan tune would have it, "the times, they are a'changing." Attitude has given way to gratitude, and fois gras smuggled in from Perigord has been replaced by pastured organic chicken hand-delivered from Petaluma. "Healthy" is the new order of the day, and "nice" is the coin of the realm.

Nowhere is this more clearly evidenced than in the newly-minted True Food Kitchen restaurant that is now anchoring the southwest corner of the re-imagined Santa Monica Place Mall. The "globally inspired" but locally sourced menu is based upon the principals of Dr. Andrew Weil's Anti-Inflammatory Diet & Food Pyramid, well-known to television viewers from Dr. Weil's guest appearances on numerous daytime shows. He is partnered here with Fox Restaurant Concepts, a group headquartered in Arizona that offers "13 unique concepts across 31 restaurants with more than 1900 employees."

Yes, this is the new face of chain restaurants: individual concepts, adapted to specific locales and audiences, with none of the anonymous mediocrity that made "chain" a dirty word in epicurean circles.

All well and good, but the proof is in the pudding, as my Irish grandmother used to say. And the pudding turns out to be mighty fine -- a dairy-free organic chocolate pudding, to be precise.

But I'm getting ahead of myself. Back to the beginning... I was invited to attend a pre-opening tryout dinner; intrigued by the concept, I rounded up my discerning friend Valli and headed out across town. Traffic was relatively painless, and parking was easy enough in the structure right next door (though valet parking is readily available out front if you're so inclined).

Passing through the open front door, we were hailed on all sides with greetings so warm and cordial, I felt we had possibly been mistaken for long-lost family members. As it turned out, this extraordinary civility and gregarious friendliness is an integral part of the concept here; all night long, everywhere you turned, someone was making way for you in the aisle, asking if you were in need of anything at all, or swiftly removing soiled plates and glasses -- always with a genuine smile. At some point we lost count of all the people who had provided service of one sort or another at our table.

All of this caretaking was perfectly expressed in the person of our primary waiter, who turned out to be not a waiter at all. The open-faced, jaunty youth who effusively welcomed us, discussed the menu and offered suggestions, wrangled the wine and evidenced the mot juste in every facet of conversation, turned out to be a consulting manager from headquarters in Arizona who was there to enable the dining staff and kitchen to hit the ground running. The intriguingly-named Kalen Pereida-Rice ("I had hippie parents" he explained with an engaging grin) was one of the most polished and enthusiastic restaurateurs I have ever experienced; he managed to make us feel that we were the focus of all his attention, at the same time that it was clear he was not only performing a similar dance for many other customers, but also overseeing the smooth running of the entire dining room all night long.

And an attractive dining room it is -- casual and comfortable, with bright colors and warm wood tones combining to create a light yet earthy impression. Tables are not crowded together, and the decibel level even at full capacity was more than conducive to quiet conversation. A long narrow open kitchen runs half the length of the restaurant, crowded with chefs who appear to be as smilingly pleased to be there as the rest of the staff.

I embarked upon the evening with a cocktail, and what a cocktail it was -- a cucumber-citrus skinny margarita that was not only fresh-tasting and a generous pour, but several dollars cheaper than anywhere else in town. An auspicious beginning I thought.

But the food? Okay, let me confess my first impressions were not entirely thrilling. Overall I perceived a timidity and a blandness that were disappointing; yes, the Tuscan kale salad totally rocked (perfectly fresh, assertive but balanced), but the delicate hamachi was drowning in a yuzu emulsion. The Monterey Bay sardines were perfectly cooked, but the salsa verde topping them was nondescript. We both chose fish for our entrees, and all the components were demonstrably fresh and well-executed, but just seemed to lack excitement. And the desserts were no more than competent.

Our consensus? Perfectly pleasant for pre- or post-shopping fare, but hardly a destination event worth a drive across town.

But then, I remembered back (way back) to my theatre days and what tech week looked like to our preview audiences, and I decided to make that cross-town trip again. And again. Because subsequent visits spun my head around and made me a fervent believer in True Food.

Lunch was the next occasion. A starter of hand-formed shrimp dumplings was exceptional - beautifully presented, tasting of actual shrimp, perfumed with ginger and enlivened by shiitakes and bits of Chinese broccoli. My friend Del's bison burger was a succulent symphony of robust meat and subtle umami mushrooms and onions wrapped in a crusty flax bun; my Alaskan halibut soft tacos offered a generous portion of firm snowy-white fish uplifted by the creaminess of avocado and tickled by the piquancy of pickled onions, with an undertone of heat that gave me the kick I had been looking for. Desserts were equally gratifying -- the non-dairy pistachio milk ice cream was a revelation, and the strawberry rhubarb crisp was no slacker either. And the service provided by our charming server Janet was right up to Kalen's standards -- attentive, informed, and genuine.

Encouraged by this unexpected midday delight, I returned again on my own a few days later for dinner. The place was jammed, but the service was as flawless as ever -- Janet again, and Kalen ever-present throughout the evening. The food continued to impress and delight; a sashimi tuna salad was as beautiful to behold as to consume (which I did in short order), and a half-and-half pizza, with chicken sausage & fennel on one side and asparagus & smoked mozzarella on the other, disappeared rather too quickly. Oh, and the asparagus side won, hands down, as Janet had predicted it would. Then the aforementioned pudding provided the perfect coda to the meal.

So yes, I imagine I'll be making that crosstown trip quite frequently and happily in days to come. I like this new trend in restaurants a lot -- Healthy and Nice make a felicitous combination, and I'd like to see a lot more of it. Now if only they'd open a True Food Kitchen in Burbank and spare me the freeway traffic, I could die happy... after many years' worth of excellent meals, of course!

Oil Up! It's National Mediterranean Diet Month

2011-05-14T17:08:05-04:00

May is National Mediterranean Diet Month, so what better time to think about adopting healthy food habits that have been shown incontrovertibly to benefit just about every conceivable portion of your life and physical well-being -- cognitive abilities, disease prevention, and heart health to name just a few. Start by getting your very own copy of the Med Diet Pyramid from Oldways, an awesome nonprofit back East that according to their website is "changing the way people eat through practical and positive programs grounded in science, traditions, and delicious foods and drinks." Then head out to your favorite market for a bottle or two of the linchpin of the Med Diet: olive oil.

Humans have been pressing those little green ovals to produce oil for over 10,000 years. Native to the Mediterranean region, the olive tree has been an integral part of many cultures, influencing and representing cuisines, religions, and societies. But only in the recent past have we discovered just how potent this green-gold elixir is, and the amazing role it plays in fighting disease and increasing longevity for those who enjoy its fragrant deliciousness.

Seriously, I could fill a dozen pages extolling the manifold benefits of olive oil, and not even begin to scratch the surface. The two primary movers and shakers are monounsaturated fatty acids (MOFAs) and polyphenols. Singly and together, they produce effects in the body that truly seem not only to promise but actually to deliver a longer, healthier life. Scores of studies on multiple continents have shown that daily consumption of extra virgin olive oil, especially as part of a classic Mediterranean Diet emphasizing whole grains, vegetables and non-red meats, directly contributes to lowered rates of heart disease, cancer prevention, and a host of other life-prolonging results.

The anti-inflammatory effects of olive oil are prodigious, and help to ward off atherosclerosis, reduce high blood pressure, and increase HDL (good) cholesterol levels. These effects can also aid in reducing the severity of the symptoms of asthma and arthritis.

The antioxidant effects are even more astonishing; in addition to contributing to coronary well being, they protect against osteoporosis, dementia, and numerous cancers, especially breast and colon.

And all this can be had from only a few tablespoons of olive oil a day. But please note: don't just add it to your diet, use it to replace other fats. Instead of butter on your baked potato, drizzle on some fresh Tuscan olive oil and a grind of black pepper; instead of mayonnaise on your tuna salad, stir it with a dollop of light Greek olive oil and a handful of fresh herbs; use it on your steamed veggies, over your green salads, under your scrambled eggs.

And be sure it's extra virgin olive oil -- that's the one with the most benefits, when using right out of the bottle. For cooking, since heat removes some of the nutrients, a good quality regular olive oil will do just fine. Then throw in some fish and poultry and a little lean red meat, plenty of whole grains and vegetables, beans and a few nuts, and that's about as close as any of us will ever get to that elusive Fountain of Youth. Oh, and don't forget a couple of glasses of red wine -- my favorite part of the Med Diet for sure!

Just How Virginal Is That Oil?

All the studies seem to agree: extra virgin olive oil is the way to go. It has the most potency health-wise, and the best flavor. So you just grab the nearest bottle that says "extra virgin" and you're good to go, right?

'Fraid not. The olive oil world was thrown into chaos last year by a report out of the University of Davis; after studying, testing, and tasting a wide sampling of oils purchased in three major cities in California, the panel concluded that many of the ones labeled "extra virgin" were in fact less than virginal - they failed to meet most IOC standards for such labeling, and were inferior in taste and health benefits. They were blends of better and lesser oils, in some cases completely different oils like nut or seed oils; or they had been made from inferior olives, or had been poorly stored with resulting degradation. Many of these mislabeled oils were brands that you will find on nearly every supermarket shelf. (Read the report at http://olivecenter.ucdavis.edu) Subsequently, the USDA came out with the first revision of standards for olive oil labeling since 1948.

So how can you be sure you're getting what you paid that premium price for? There are a few things you can do. For California oils, look for the California Olive Oil Council (COOC) seal, or the North American Olive Oil Council (NAOOC) seal; seek out small producers who grow, press and bottle the oil themselves. For imports, it gets tough; "cold-pressed" and "first pressing" are good, but no guarantee that all the oil is extra virgin. I've had my best success with regional and site-specific producers, where the oil is clearly labeled as to origins. Avoid the mass-market brands; pay a little more, and get a whole lot more in return.

You want your olive oil to be as fresh as possible. Some Italian oils come with a bottling date, which is excellent. You can see one in the picture -- a hand-picked organic oil from a small Tuscan estate called "La Chiusa Chianti", which is one of my favorites. Only buy what you can use in a short period of time, and store excess in the fridge; keep only what you need for a week or so at room temperature. Clear bottles are a no-no; dark and cool is the way to go, so tinted bottles or metal containers are preferable. And keep your current bottle away from the stove and out of the light, to keep it at its best.

Now that you have a bottle or two of that glorious elixir, get cookin'!

Ultimate Caesar Salad

A healthy interpretation of the classic! Make your own homemade croutons with a cubed whole-grain baguette baked with a drizzle of garlic olive oil...

1 large head of organic romaine lettuce, washed and torn into bite-size pieces

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, preferably meyer lemon
1 teaspoon microplaned lemon zest
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 anchovies, mashed (or more, if you're a fan as I am)
1 medium clove garlic, minced
Grind of black pepper
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup canola oil
1/2 cup shredded reggiano parmesan

Croutons for garnish

In a large jar or similar container, combine lemon juice, vinegar, mustard, anchovies, garlic & pepper, and shake thoroughly to combine. Add olive and canola oils, shake again until smooth. Taste, and adjust with a little more vinegar or olive oil to taste.

Toss romaine with just enough dressing to moisten evenly, not drench; sprinkle Parmesan over salad and toss briefly again. Top with croutons.

Serves 4-6.

Scrambled Olive Oil Eggs

This simple but elegant breakfast dish is fast, healthy and delicious... Serve with whole wheat toast and fresh fruit.

2 tablespoons olive oil
3 egg whites
3 whole eggs
1/2 tablespoon cold water
1/2 tablespoon snipped fresh chives
Salt & fresh ground pepper to taste

In a small bowl, whisk egg whites, whole eggs, water and chives lightly with a fork until combined and a little frothy. In an omelet pan, heat the olive oil over medium high heat; add eggs and stir gently with a spatula, turning and lifting eggs to allow uncooked portions to reach the pan. Cook just until opaque; remove from pan quickly, add salt & pepper to taste, and serve.

Serves 2.

[Portions of this post appear in my monthly "Eat Smart" column in the May issue of Better Nutrition Magazine.]

Small Town Hearts in the Big City: A Slow Food Tale

2011-04-22T14:07:52-04:00

Mr. McGrath. I hadn't remembered that name in years. He was my mother's butcher when I was a wee lad, in a small town in New York. It was always an adventure and a treat to accompany my mom on her weekly visits to that strange but exciting world of crackling white butcher paper and mysterious slabs of meat to be cut to order and wrapped for Sunday dinner. And there was always a lollipop, or even better a tootsie-pop, to garnish the event.

And now, more years later than I care to enumerate, I live in the heart of a major metropolis, where even the most conscientious of markets display impersonal cases filled with shrink-wrapped animal products that shriek of anonymity and commerce. Even the rare soi-disant "butcher shops" obtain their goods from far-flung and unidentified sources, the product often pre-cut and pre-packaged and pre-almost-everything. With a gusty sigh and a nostalgic glance in the rear-view mirror of time, I long ago bid a regretful good-bye to the local family butcher of yesteryear.

And then, like a warm welcoming wind blowing through the door of Dr. Who's time-traveling TARDIS, along came Lindy and Grundy. Oh, I had seen and heard all the pre-opening hype -- features in prominent food magazines, articles in major media, even friends in the food biz prattling on about the New Kids in Town. Pish-tosh, I said to myself, yet another trendy gimmick with attitude to spare and nothing of substance to offer beyond a certain novelty and counterculture glamor.

Okay. Boy was I dead wrong. I'm not ashamed to admit it. You behold a man upon whom the light has shone; I've fallen from the horse, the scales have dropped from my eyes, the cynicism has melted from my bones, and I am a total convert. Long Live Lindy and Grundy!

So here's how the conversion went down. Reluctantly succumbing to the need to be au courant, and needing a roast for Easter Sunday for my favorite client, I drag myself over the hill to Fairfax and Willoughby to check it out. 2:00 in the afternoon, and I'm met with an improvised hand-lettered sign on the door: CLOSED. Behind the sign, an expanse of empty glass cases. Slightly exasperated, and not at all hopeful, I motion to a young lad seated inside -- "Can I order something?" I mouth to him.

Without a moment's hesitation the youngster, who looks like the Artful Dodger's older brother with a jaunty cap and an appealingly crooked grin, opens the door and welcomes me. Apologetically explaining that they've simply "run out of everything," he suggests I return on the morrow, since the chickens have just arrived, and the beef will be arriving the following morning. He seems genuinely concerned with my needs, and couldn't have been friendlier or more accommodating.

Wow. A real person, genuine and helpful. Maybe not so trendy and attitudinous after all. Certainly an auspicious introduction, I think.

Intrigued, I return the next day with my camera and my notepad, curious to see what adventure might befall me. Though I still don't yet quite get it; I think perhaps one of the "girls" might condescend to give me a few minutes of her time, without having to seek the intercession of their obviously talented publicist. I can be in and out in 15 minutes.

I walk into the scrupulously spotless store, and the first thing I see is an adorable girl with retro chocolate-box prettiness and 40s red lipstick smiling at me from behind the counter. "Hi, welcome. Can I help you with anything today?" Could it be... ? Why yes, this would be Amelia Posada, otherwise known as Lindy. As I would soon discover, she's a sweet, savvy, wholly unpretentious delight who along with her wife Erika (otherwise known as Grundy) is pursuing and realizing a very special dream.

And so for several hours, I hang about the shop, chatting with "the girls" and their small staff and their customers, having the time of my life. This is truly the benign and beautiful face of the Slow Food Movement, and a textbook primer on how to source foods in an old-fashioned way in a newfangled world. Not to mention a lesson to all retailers on how to treat your customers.

Because for Amelia and Erika, they're not customers -- they're neighbors. This is truly a "neighborhood shop" -- only the neighborhood encompasses the very wide swath of land that comprises Los Angeles. The store has been open a scant few weeks, and already almost everyone who walks through the doors while I'm there is "a regular". One gentleman informs me that he has worked for that large "health food" store chain for 10 years, but since Lindy and Grundy came to town, he wouldn't get his meat anywhere else but here -- on a daily basis. And the staff is already family; Alex, my Artful Dodger friend, lives across the street. He offered his services to the girls while they were under construction, thinking they would be awesome to work for and learn from; they welcomed him with open hearts, and indeed he says, they are absolutely awesome to work for.

From Amelia, I learn that they get everything "whole," and butcher it themselves. There are no crates of chicken parts being delivered here, no boxes of multiple cuts of meat; whole chickens, whole pigs and lambs, entire sides of beef is what we're talking, from a few very select farms. And the girls have met with every farmer, toured every farm, approved every detail -- this is knowing your sources to the ultimate degree. For Amelia and Erika, the farmers are their rock stars -- hardworking people who raise animals the right way, at great expense and with great love, because that's how it should be done. Integrity with no compromise -- what a concept, and so very rare in our time in the food world, or indeed in any part of the realm of commerce.

Then the real fun for me begins... Alex emerges from the back slinging an entire side of beef on a hook, sliding it along a rack and depositing it on Erika's butcher block. I've never been this close to the origins of my food before...

Erika takes pity on my adolescent enthusiasm and invites me to don a hairnet and join her. As I watch her deftly begin her breakdown of the carcass, we talk about "meat philosophy." We discover a shared affinity for the atavistic concept of honoring and thanking the animals we rely upon for our sustenance, and we compare notes on the fantasy books we have read over the years that illuminate the hunter-gatherer traditions from which we have become so far removed, tomes such as Clan of the Cave Bear and Red Moon and Black Mountain. Seriously, it doesn't get any better than this for me -- food prep and literary discussion combined, with an adorable, dedicated, generous lady who shares my passions.

Reluctantly, after pumping endless quarters into my parking meter, I finally tear myself away from this delightful visit. I don't go away empty-handed, though; I bear with me a skirt steak that I watched Erika cut off and trim right in front of me and wrap up in -- yes -- crisp white butcher paper... not to mention a wedge of truffled cheese from the small but select cheese case. Clutching my goodies, I am hard-pressed to find the words to convey to them how special I think their endeavor is, and how grateful I am to be welcomed into their family.

The spirit of Mr. McGrath definitely hovers over Lindy and Grundy for me, blessing them for bringing back a lost art and a sorely needed service. I know I'll be haunting their store for many moons to come!

P.S. I rubbed the skirt steak with my own BBQ dry spice mix and grilled it last night -- it was awesome.