I've spent much of the past two weeks riding a bicycle around western Ireland, marveling at the peace and prosperity that has settled over the long-cursed land. The biggest puzzle for me, however, were the fields of sheep spray-painted in day-glo colors. The sheep, that is, not the fields. They came in many colors: orange, red, green, yellow. I'd be whizzing along in third gear, and grazing nonchalantly by the roadside would be clusters of sheep as gaily spray-painted as New York subway cars in the pre-Giuliani days. Was this some strange EU regulation? A color code to which the sheep had to conform? My favorite was an entire herd spray-painted blue like Mel Gibson's face in "Braveheart."