The wind dies, and it is utterly still, the only movement the lazy turning of my own thoughts. Then an F-16 streaks overhead and breaks the sound barrier. The end of innocence, once again.
It was a spell ago -- and you can figure out the timeframe by surrounding events -- when I bickered my black VW bug north from Los Angeles to Death Valley, girlfriend Karen Goldberg at my side, a weekend of adventure ahead.
I once heard the hypothetical that if Cleopatra's nose had been shorter, the face of the earth would have changed. And I wonder, if I had stayed in a trailer high on Telescope Peak in Death Valley, how would the world be different now?
Jemaa El F'na Square is one of the most tolerant pieces of real estate in the world. Here is my account of a recent passage through the open-doored crossroads of Africa.