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Barbara Hannah Grufferman

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Life After 50: Why Should Gray Hair Work Against Women?

Posted: 09/02/11 02:39 PM ET

As we celebrate Labor Day this weekend, it's hard not to be reminded of the high rate of unemployment in this country right now. President Obama will be addressing the nation on Thursday, September 8th, outlining his plans for creating jobs and stimulating the economy. We are all, of course, hopeful.

A few months ago, I wrote an article -- "Women's Worse Fear After 50? It's Not What You Think" -- that focused on how women after 50 are most concerned about having a job and money as they age. Given the fact that more jobs are now being offered to men, women still earn 77 cents for every dollar a man earns (I fully expect to read comments refuting both of these statistics), and women's financial status diminishes considerably if she divorces, it is reasonable for women, especially those over 50, to be worried about their financial futures.

Which brings me to the question of gray hair. If a woman is looking for a job -- or trying to keep one -- in this fragile economy, is she putting herself in an even more precarious situation if she chooses to rebel and "go gray"? There are reports way too frequently about women who are penalized for having gray hair, making them feel that covering the gray to cover their age is a necessary prerequisite for employment.

There are options.

I remember the first time I ever "colored" my hair. It was 1969 -- a year when the world was filled with rebellion. I spritzed on a little Sun-In while soaking up the sun in my Brooklyn backyard listening to Credence Clearwater Revival. In a matter of hours, my dark blond hair with natural golden highlights turned a vibrant shade of orange to match the Bain de Soleil Gelee' everybody seemed to use back then (without SPF of course). My mother helped fix it with a little of her "only your hair dresser knows for sure" home coloring kit from Clairol, and it gradually grew out.

Despite the failed first attempt... I was hooked.

Highlighting has been a part of my life since my twenties. But when the grays started sneaking in -- just before hitting 50 -- I thought it might be time to rethink my routine, assuming I would switch over to single process to cover them, just like most other women I knew did. I was trying to figure out a newer, simpler paradigm for the other areas of my life since turning 50, and wanted to figure this one out, too. Was this the moment I was waiting for to proudly and publicly acknowledge my foray into my 50s? Should I now wear my graying hair like a badge of honor, courage, bravado and attitude?

Only one name came to my mind when I decided to check in with someone who could give me an honest assessment, and an overview of my options -- Frederic Fekkai, the superstar of hair care. The leader in women's hair care since the late 80s, Frederic opened his first salon in New York, which was an immediate success. Now, salons are worldwide, and his products have an international following.

There are degrees of gray, Frederic explained. We start out with a few gray hairs. More come in and we get up to about 20 percent, then 30 percent, and eventually our hair is over 50 percent gray. That's the natural progression of gray hair (for most women). Once your hair is over 50 percent gray, there are three options to consider:

  • Do what the vast majority of women do: color the roots every three to five weeks (single process) and maybe combine with occasional highlights (double process)
  • Instead of covering the gray, let the gray hair grow in, and apply highlights and low-lights through the hair to blend with the gray... creating depth and contrast
  • Go gray all the way!


Frederic's least favorite choice is the "single process" route. Very often women who do this create a single block of color, with very little contrast (especially if it's too dark or too light) and this can age you, draining your face. Even if your hair is dark brown or black -- which shows up the gray much more than blond hair does -- he encourages us to run the highlights and lowlights right through the brown and gray hair, creating a beautiful mix of natural colors. It's a more modern, fresh look and, he thinks very sexy, because it's an interesting way to embrace your hair, and your age, without going completely gray.

But, letting your hair go gray is an option that women should absolutely consider, too. If you've already been coloring your graying hair, it might take a little longer to get to where you want it to be, but this might be the most bold way to embrace -- and proudly show off -- your age. Think of Helen Mirren and Jamie Lee Curtis as great examples of women who have let their gray go, and look fabulous.

What it really comes down to is attitude. If you present yourself as being confident, bold, fearless and proud of your age, your gray hair could be beside the point.

What did I choose? I'm staying with what I've been doing since the gray started coming in: combining my dark blonde hair, with the new gray, and some highlights to help blend it all together.

Who knows? Maybe some day I'll go gray all the way. But, I'm not there just yet. Right now, it's the perfect compromise between walking proudly and fearlessly into my new life as an "after 50" woman... and... holding on to that little piece of my former self.

What did you do? Do you feel the need to cover your gray?

* * *

Staying connected is a powerful tool. "Friend" me on Facebook and "Tweet" me on Twitter (BGrufferman). For more information on living your best life after 50 visit www.bestofeverythingafter50.com. Stay well, and be in touch!

 
 
 

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11:22 AM on 09/10/2011
A few years ago I had a choice go gray or be plump, but not BOTH. At the time, I was a bit overweight so I colored my hair. Since then my weight/health status changed for the better, and being at a healthy weight has made me rethink hair coloring. These days I'm doing a bit of blending with some gray still showing through and I like it!
05:53 AM on 09/10/2011
i started graying at 27, am 34 now and not sure if i want to color my hair or not. on one hand i don't want to have to keep it up and ruin my hair with the chemicals, but on the other i don't want to look older than i am (even though i have no wrinkles as of now - always take good care of your skin ladies!) suggestions?
10:34 PM on 09/08/2011
At 43 I'm pretty gray. After a scary few days thinking I may go bald, I vowed I'd never color! My mother and I thought she was losing her hair. Turns out she was between color jobs and the hair at her forehead was so gray it looked it was receding! Yeah...I'll never color. I point out to my kids which section they gave me and when. Yup...I'm embracing my gray and loving the freedom! Of course when a gray hair falls out I don't cry over it.
06:17 AM on 09/08/2011
I have my hair cut and touched up every six weeks. Fortunately, the light blonde coincides with my skin tones. I am an RN, so most employers are so desperate to get an experienced nurse that the hair definitely isn't an issue. I am 61 but have been told that I look in my late forties. Perhaps it is because I am young at heart and laugh a lot. I am married to a man 12 years my junior. I would hate to be starting out in a personal asst. field at my age. Ageism is rampant in most fields, whether employers admit it or not. They know how to get around asking about your age, just as they know how to get around discrimination against single mothers.
10:40 PM on 09/07/2011
I color my hair because I'm not even thirty yet, and my roots are coming in too grey for my age. I found my first grey hair when I was 16. Genetics can be harsh. I do single-process, trying to match (mostly) my non-grey roots.
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OMGWTH
I'm here for the party.
06:16 PM on 09/06/2011
Interesting article. My situation is a tiny bit different from that of a woman fighting to stay in or get back into the workplace. I am starting my junior year at a women's college tomorrow, many years after leaving school to raise a family. I am 60 years old and I have a few well-placed strands of silver hair that everyone seems to find attractive. I stopped coloring two years ago and intend to let the silver do its thing. I like it. I think it is pretty because it sparkles and shines. But what has me nervous is that I am heading into the classroom with very young girls, most of them in their late teens. I have been warned that I will be looked upon as an oddity at first, but then they will flock to me and want me to be a mother figure to them. I assume my silver hair will make them think I am even older than I am. I did start wondering if my salon medium auburn might be a better route to go, but I have decided against it. I will be fascinated to see if both the young women in my classes and the professors react to the hair color.
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playflute2
flootz
08:48 PM on 09/06/2011
If you have a similar experience to mine, you will find that the young people in your classes will, for the most part, be happily accepting of you gray hair and all. I am in graduate school and am 66 years old, although folk tell me I look younger. My hair is its natural gray. The young folk accept me better sometimes than the folk that are closer to my age. I'm also a private music teacher, and my kids have no issues at all with me.
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OMGWTH
I'm here for the party.
04:28 AM on 09/07/2011
Very nice response. Thank you. And good luck to you in your studies. I will be going on to earn a masters degree and I am looking forward to that experience as well.
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Chad Wheeler
07:03 PM on 09/08/2011
I went back to school as an adult too and mostly all I felt was relief that I was no longer 18. I was not treated different by either fellow students or professors. My age actually works in my favor- there are a lot of things that you know when you are older that young people haven't had time to learn yet. I had a test in a psychology class that I had completely spaced and still managed to do well just because most of it was stuff that I consider common knowledge but that someone 18 might not. Just don't read Arianna's post on college debt that was posted yesterday. I had a literal panic attack after reading it yesterday.

Good luck to you and congratulations on your decision to go back!
05:09 PM on 09/06/2011
In the past year I've gone gray all the way. Now I look at others my age and older who are still coloring and think - why? They are going to look their age no matter what - even if they are doing major plastic surgery/maintenance procedures. Your hands will always reveal your true age.

On the flip side of things, I have not had to look for a job and compete with newly-minted graduates.

I can enjoy my "rebel" hair coloring now and into the future ~
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D. A. Wolf
Founder, Daily Plate of Crazy
03:23 PM on 09/06/2011
Thank you for this article, Barbara, because it points out again some of the more subtle differences between expectations of men and women at midlife.

As a woman seeking paying gigs or regular employment, "going gray" is out of the question. It's hard enough to get work if anyone knows your age. *Look* your age?

Good luck.
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abhorson
in favor of legalized bar fighting
03:26 AM on 09/06/2011
do as makes you happy .... but coloring "buys" you about 10 years .... dressed....
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Targa3141
03:08 AM on 09/05/2011
Dating in the slutty sea after a divorce, pressure to dye one's hair or get a labiaplasty, the need for a diet (size 21, thank you very much)....modern women have a long way to go before this enslavement ends!
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magdarem
If you don't vote, don't complain
10:53 PM on 09/04/2011
For me playing with hair color is something I have done since my twenties, mybnatural color is dark brown but I've been red, red with highlights, dark brown with burgundy highlights, blonde, brown with lighter brown highlights, almost black, you name it, so it has sort of become my "signature" to change my hair color and length every couple of years. So now I just keep coloring.. Right now my hair dresser and I are doing chocolate brown with lighter highlights and growing it out a bit, and later, in the fall I will probably go darker, who knows, it's just hair, and you can be playful with it, no matter your age (I'm 52). And perhaps one day I will choose to do the gray thing, or nice silver, maybe....
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french queen13
my beloved is mine and I am his
10:25 PM on 09/04/2011
My natural colour is mid-brown, rather mousy, but I haven't seen it for nearly thirty years. I'm very grey now, judging by the roots. I get my hair coloured a violet-based deep brunette - not quite black, that's too harsh for my face these days. Three reasons: 1) Basic vanity. My face looks considerably younger than its years (I'm 48) and grey hair would, I suspect, make me look much older. Plus my ageless beloved hasn't gone grey yet. :) 2) To keep the hair looking good if I did go grey, I'd need to have highlights or blends or something. What's the point of going grey if it still means getting it coloured - and in a way that would probably cost more? 3) I'm employed but if our company should fold, then getting a new job after years in a niche role would be difficult enough without adding another hurdle. Ageism is as prevalent in Australia as in the US, I suspect. Only difference is that if some kiddiewink in an agency had the nerve to ask my age, I'd jump down his (or her) throat with a few reminders about the law and that they're breaking it.
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10:02 AM on 09/05/2011
They don't have to ask. Your resume could easily give it away if you list job experience that totals more than the number of years your interviewer has been alive.
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playflute2
flootz
10:54 AM on 09/05/2011
Plus, don't job applications still ask for your date of birth? That sort of does it right there, now doesn't it.
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french queen13
my beloved is mine and I am his
07:26 PM on 09/05/2011
Most of the job-hunting advice I've seen specifies that you don't need to include all your work history - keep it to more recent and relevant (with any luck they'll coincide!) stuff. I sure wouldn't be putting the dates I've done other jobs. Like you said - too many of the interviewers weren't even a gleam in Daddy's eye then!
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abhorson
in favor of legalized bar fighting
03:30 AM on 09/06/2011
Those "kiddiewinks" in agencies or HR depts are TRAINED to never ask age - violation of federal laws - but, they are trained to get around that.

They can ask where you went to university - and when you graduated - they can even check. They are allowed to ask for any employment history - including gaps - and the reasons behind them (children etc...) ...

The laws didn't create a more JUST world - they created a world where there is a 'game' where each side tries to play it smarter.
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bushitbrain
04:51 PM on 09/04/2011
Drop the key word `women' & replace it with `people'. In a culture Obsessed with youth, Anyone in their late 40s or older applying for a job in a field overrun with 20, 30, & 40-somethings, has an Xtremely difficult & unspoken prejudice to overcome. Add to that an `Old' appearance, stereotyped by gray hair, & their goose is cooked. As Walter Cronkite would say, "Thats the way it is..." Add to that, ..."Forever, & for Him as well as Her".
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Barbara Hannah Grufferma
author, The Best of Everything After 50
07:32 PM on 09/04/2011
You are right. Nothing less than a societal sea change is called for.
Thanks for reading and commenting . . .
Barbara
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playflute2
flootz
09:44 PM on 09/04/2011
Love the idea of a societal sea change. :)
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abhorson
in favor of legalized bar fighting
03:31 AM on 09/06/2011
The small problem with "societal sea changes" is that everyone has a different idea of what they would like to have in that "change soup"... and it never comes out to anyone's liking...

I vote for seeing the world as it is not as I would like it to be.
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satanlite
Liberal blogger
08:30 PM on 09/04/2011
You put that quite well.
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Kai Ferano
What would Freud say?
04:31 PM on 09/04/2011
Sadly, yes. Unless she is a stunner..and looks elegant with thick, stylish pure white hair, she's better off hiding the gray. When I let my hair go gray beyond the roots I look tired and even older than 65. I don't know why men can get away with gray hair. It often gives them a distinguished look. I think, too, that place of work makes a difference. Female scientists working in labs can easily "get away with" gray hair, because there's less sexism in this profession. In an office environment, gray locks on women work against her. 'Tis a sad commentary.
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04:16 PM on 09/04/2011
Henna. It's much healthier than chemical hair dyes, works well with naturally brown hair (what most of us have, hon) adding reddish highlights where the grey was, and actually protects the hair shaft.