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Bart van Olphen

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Can We Keep Eating Tuna?

Posted: 11/15/10 09:40 AM ET

Our Oceans

When I started my first fishmonger store eight years ago, I had this romantic idea that fish always have been caught by small-scale wooden boats who landed their fish daily into beautiful small harbors. Of course I knew here and there that some fish were obtained in a more industrial way, but the fact that only a very small percentage is caught in the small-scale way surprised me. Did you know that in the United Kingdom roughly 90% of the fish quota is caught by only 7% of the amount of vessels? In other words, the small-scale fishing boats under 33 feet long catch only 10% of the quota, which is some cases is less than one piece of fish per day (e.g. Hastings fishing boats quota on cod). The huge industrialization of the fish business over the last few decades has had an enormous impact on the ecosystem in our oceans. The worldwide fishing capacity is five times more than the legal amount of fish available. We need to accept that a wild-caught fish has become a rare food product. In today's oceans, 25% of all fish stocks are depleted and around 50% is fully exploited. If we continue eating fish in this way scientists have stated that we will have empty seas by 2040. We need to protect our oceans!

Marine Stewardship Council (MSC)

The Marine Stewardship Council, established by the WWF and Unilever ten years ago, created a standard for sustainably caught wild fish. Today the blue label (slide 4, below) is recognized all over the world and assures you that the labeled fish is caught in a sustainable way:

  1. The fish comes out a healthy stock; second
  2. The fishing methods have limited impact on the ecosystem
  3. Tthe fishery is managed by the firm standards set by the MSC. An independent certifier controls every aspect of the fishery.

What Tuna Should We Eat?

American Albacore Tuna, the best sustainable tuna choice!
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The first tuna fishery in the world was awarded the MSC label in August 2007. The AAFA (American Albacore Fishing Association) catches their fantastic white tuna in the Pacific Ocean before landing into several west coast ports like Newport, Oregon and Washington state. This delicious big fish is the best sustainable tuna choice you can make today. Vessels go out during the summer months to find their way to the tuna fields. The Albacore tuna is caught only during the day and fishermen often are at sea for weeks. Some of the tuna is frozen immediately on board and the rest is landed as fresh. The white tuna meat ends up in cans, as smoked products, or on the fresh fish counter.

An ‘AAFA’ fishermen catches an Albacore tuna (Fred Greaves, Fishes)
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A Fish Tales Recipe (page 135): Albacore Tuna with roasted garlic and cherry tomatoes, rosemary, and black olives

2010-11-15-FishTalesTunaimage.jpg


This is a deliciously rustic dish that spells hot summer. Seared tuna is served with a warm dressing made of roasted garlic cloves, cherry tomatoes, crushed black olives, rosemary, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar. The sweet roasted garlic makes a delicious contrast against the sour balsamic, tomatoes, and olives. The black pepper and arugula served with the tuna pieces give the dish a delicate heat.

Tuna with Roasted Garlic and Cherry Tomatoes, Rosemary, and Black Olives

2010-11-15-fishtalesbookcovermd.jpgServes 4 to 6

30 cherry tomatoes, halved
12 garlic cloves
olive oil, for cooking
salt and freshly ground black pepper
20 to 30 black olives, pitted
2 sprigs of fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 fresh albacore tuna steak per person
arugula or mixed salad leaves, to serve

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. Place the halved tomatoes and garlic in a roasting pan with a little olive oil, salt, and black pepper. Add the olives and rosemary and toss gently to coat everything with the oil. Roast for 25 minutes. When the tomatoes are cooked, remove the pan from the oven and leave to rest for 5 minutes--this will allow the juices to be released to make the sauce; add the balsamic vinegar and extra virgin olive oil to the roasting pan to make a warm vinaigrette.

3. Heat some oil in a heavy-bottomed frying pan over medium to high heat. Season the tuna steaks with salt and black pepper. Do not overload the pan with cold fish, or the temperature will drop and the fish will boil rather than be seared; instead cook the fish in two or three batches. Sear the tuna in the frying pan for 1 minute, gently turn it over, and cook it for another minute for rare; if you prefer medium-rare, allow about another 20 seconds on each side, but no more. When removed from the pan, the fish will continue cooking from the residual heat and the salty, acidic marinade.

4. Remove the seared tuna from the pan and set aside. Scatter some arugula or mixed leaves over a large platter. Spoon half of the tomato mixture over thearugula and then arrange the seared tuna steaks on top. When you are readyto serve, spoon over the remaining tomato mixture with its warm juices. Thetuna is meaty in taste and the tomatoes and garlic are rustic and robustlyflavored, so I would suggest a light red wine such as a chilled Pinot Noir asan accompaniment.

This dish looks great served on a platter in the middle of the table, or if you prefer, you could plate the tuna individually. If you don't have any rosemary, use sprigs of thyme or marjoram--all these herbs work well with the combined flavors of the tomatoes, garlic, and olives.

 
Our Oceans When I started my first fishmonger store eight years ago, I had this romantic idea that fish always have been caught by small-scale wooden boats who landed their fish daily into beautiful ...
Our Oceans When I started my first fishmonger store eight years ago, I had this romantic idea that fish always have been caught by small-scale wooden boats who landed their fish daily into beautiful ...
 
 
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09:57 PM on 11/16/2010
It never fails, on HP post about food, there will be posts telling people they should be vegetarian or vegan. It's like listening to Christians tell me I have to believe in god. No, you don't have to be a vegetarian or vegan to eat a healthy diet. So stop preaching to me about what I choose to eat.
04:29 PM on 11/16/2010
The article wasn't entirely clear on a couple points. Regarding mercury in tuna: Mercury is a concern in many larger, older fish. In contrast, the AAFA albacore fishing (photo 1 in the article) takes only younger smaller "teenage" fish. These fish are very low in mercury.
Much of the albacore caught by AAFA vessels (all U.S. vessels, fishing off Washington, Oregon, and Calif.) is canned very differently than supermarket brands. U.S. micro-canneries do not add water. It's simply delicious albacore in the can. Rich and moist, not dry and flavorless.
I became a convert some years ago when I learned of this fishery and found out that AAFA fishermen were leading the world's tuna industry in efforts to ensure sustainable fishing. That kind of thinking I can support!
04:11 PM on 11/16/2010
Wild Planet Foods sources all its canned seafood sustainably! They use the pole and troll method to catch the fish which eliminates bycatch. They also only look for smaller tuna, reducing the mercury levels.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Edward Standley
opinionated jerk
10:19 PM on 11/15/2010
Anybody know what the most affordable and sustainable fishes are?
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mlaiuppa
Pres. Sarcasm Society. Like we need your approval.
12:02 AM on 11/16/2010
Try the Monterrey Bay Aquarium fish chart.

http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/SeafoodWatch/web/sfw_regional.aspx
05:29 AM on 11/17/2010
The sustainable farmed fish are catfish, tilapia, striped bass, rainbow trout, and arctic char from least to most expensive.  Watch out for Chinese tilapia, which is not sustainable.

Small wild fish can also be sustainable: anchovies, sardines, herring, and smelt.  I particularly like smelt, which are much smaller cousins of salmon that are loaded with omega-3 fat and great for pan-frying whole. These fish are often sold frozen for under $2/lb.

Another affordable and sustainable seafood choice is farmed mussels.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Edward Standley
opinionated jerk
08:11 AM on 11/17/2010
Thank you. You know, I had forgotten about smelt. Had them when I was younger, and they were very tasty little morsels!
06:53 PM on 11/15/2010
Big Fish has cut the can size from 6 oz. to 5 oz., so we are eating less (while paying more).
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rikster
buy the ticket-take the ride
06:42 PM on 11/15/2010
no..Japanese will fish it out of existence...
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Brautigan
06:18 PM on 11/15/2010
Great info about the Marine Stewardship label. I had no idea, but I will make sure I only buy fish products with that label from here on.
05:49 PM on 11/15/2010
Good story until I found out that it was yet another ad for a book. These types of things are called 'advertorials' in the biz.

And I despise them...
05:16 PM on 11/15/2010
The cod in the Northern Atlantic was almost fished to extinction. They were like the passenger pigeons, gazillions of them everywhere and then almost nothing. The cod are making modest comeback after lots of effort. Hope tuna can too.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
deweydecimal
@DeweyMai on Twitter
04:39 PM on 11/15/2010
Eating tuna makes no more sense than eating swordfish or shark. Go lower on the foodchain for your fish.
04:00 PM on 11/15/2010
If you want mercury toxicity and want mercury and other heavy metals lodged in your brain and body go ahead and eat it and run the risk of increased dementia and even madness, among other aliments. Amazing, this very critical point was not mentioned. Look up the original meaning of the phrase "mad as a hatter"....men that literally went mad from mercury used in the millinery industry to make the felt used in hats in the 1800's. Now there's not only mercury in tuna and other fish and seafood but other heavy metals, industrial pollutants and chemicals galore. In some countries pregnant women are advised against eating tuna.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Geauterre
Writer, Author, Commentator and Humorist.
03:28 PM on 11/15/2010
I propose a five year moratorium on eating any sort of fish, or shell fish. Five years. Five precious years to replenish a healthy stock, rather than make our seas and oceans lifeless. Following these, I would establish a catch cap after the five year period of 2% of the food population within twenty miles of any coastline, with commercial trawling nets banned permanently.

In addition, I also propose that the killing of sea mammals be stopped forever, especially as these creatures have shown extraordinary examples of self-awareness and intelligence. Killing them for sport, convenience or primitive traditions is nothing less than murder.

Next, the dumping of waste in any sea or ocean should be punishable by life imprisonment, as this act is tantamount to poisoning the food chain. Following these regulations, I would establish a catch cap, after the five year period of 2% of the food population within twenty miles of any coastline, with commercial trawling nets banned permanently.

My recommendations are based on the need to establish a healthier relationship between humanity and the earth upon which we live. Anything less than this would be unacceptable for us and our future generations. Pity of it is . . . I love fish and Omega 3 oils for mineral and vitamin supplementals will have to be extracted from vegetables or created in labs--and I don't like lab created stuff to eat at all!
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Geauterre
Writer, Author, Commentator and Humorist.
03:37 PM on 11/15/2010
Sorry everyone, cut and paste problem above. Please overlook it, message is still acceptable.
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Apathetic Apostle
Independent
05:19 PM on 11/15/2010
I like that your thinking of solutions. ANd I also think a multi-year moratorium on some type of fishing is crucial. But let's be honest if we are going to be making solutions. Everyone has a list of animals that they have humanized and as long as we eat any type of meat, we can't be deciding which animals are the right ones and which ones aren't. Who am I to tell the Japanese to stop eating Dolphin as long as Im eating Hamburgers from my grill? Of course I am not speaking to the fact of the blatant illegal fishing going on around the world, but I can't judge other nations choice of what animals they eat as long as I still eat animals.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
cccoyote
America couldn't be bought by corps.
02:55 PM on 11/15/2010
It's estimated that another 20% of the Blue Fin has been wiped out by BP.

simple search: blue fin gulf
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02:42 PM on 11/15/2010
The real issue is mercury, and I find it odd that there was no mention of it in this article. The largest and oldest fish are of course the greatest risk for high levels of mercury. For me, knowing what I know now, tuna is a very occasional meal, and even then not much of it. I don't want to glow in the dark.

And what's with the recipe?
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04:29 PM on 11/15/2010
"glow in the dark"

Hey! That's MY line!!! :-)

fav'd
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RedRat
Ignorance is fixable, stupidty is forever
02:37 PM on 11/15/2010
As to canned water pack tuna, I think the stuff is inedible, particularly albacore, it is dry and almost induces a gag reflex right out of the can. It can be rendered tolerable by dosing it with mayo. The only half-way decent canned tuna are the oil packed versions (preferably those packed in olive oil). If you want to taste fairly good tuna, you will need a European pack because the tuna are not twice cooked, as they are here in America. In Europe they butcher the tuna and place the pieces in the can and then retort them. Check out some from Italy and Spain.