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Black Beauty: The 10 New Rules

Posted: 07/19/2012 3:03 pm

This is an exciting time for black beauty. Black women all over the world are discussing their hair and beauty choices as a result of the so-called natural hair revolution that is sweeping across many parts of America. Over 10 years ago, I wrote a book called "Black Beauty," which tried to make sense of the history of different black aesthetic styles and the way they have been received within this culture. With so much exciting debate going on right now, I decided to draft my own personal manifesto for the 10 new rules of black beauty.

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  • 1. Action, not hair, is what makes you black

    Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. remains our best example of this. The ultimate signifier of his blackness was not his hair, features or skin color, but his words and deeds. Photo: AFP

  • 2. All hair and hairstyles are good

    <a href="http://www.stylelist.com/2012/02/26/viola-davis-hair-oscars_n_1302789.html" target="_hplink">Providing you choose them for yourself</a>, rather than through any forms of pressure or coercion, from family, friends, haters or society. Photos: Gety Images|AFP

  • 3. Know your black hair history

    Knowing the cultural history behind the hairstyle you choose empowers your choices. For example, for those who wear wigs or weaves, this type of adornment dates back over 5,000 years to ancient Egypt, where they were worn for ceremonial occasions, and as sun protectors. Photo: Hulton Archive

  • 4. Know your own hair history

    For many black women, their preference for straight hair is driven by bad childhood memories of being teased and tormented at school about their natural hair, or being made to feel insecure by parents who insisted on the hot comb or hair relaxer. Understanding your own psychological back-story, and the way it has influenced your choices today, is fundamental, thereby raising one's consciousness from "choice" to "informed choice." Photo: Getty Images

  • 5. Understand who controls black beauty today

    They are media owners, magazine and newspaper publishers, advertisers, cosmetics manufacturers, Hollywood producers, directors, casting agents, etc. If you translate this list into people, those in charge consist predominantly of white men. It is they who control what images of blackness are disseminated through the global media. This is not a bad thing in itself, if these men have an expansive view of black aesthetic diversity, but mostly they don't. To a greater or lesser degree, we are all influenced, conditioned, some might say even brainwashed, by their decisions. Photo: Getty Images

  • 6. Black men -- be more supportive

    The black Nationalists of the civil rights era chastised African American women who didn't give up their processed hair during the aesthetic revisionism of the 1960s. Today's black men should support black women in their aesthetic choices, whatever they may be. They should be more empathetic and less chastising. Photo: Hulton Archive

  • 7. End black-on-black hair conflict

    Black women are under attack again, only this time from each other. Curly against straight, natural against processed. The two styles are billed in opposition to one another -- like a face-off between a pair of heavyweight boxers -- always with the word "<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/08/19/split-ends-natural-vs-rel_n_931691.html" target="_hplink">VERSUS</a>" separating them. In reality there is no reason why these two styles should not co-exist in harmony, with both factions accepting, instead of attacking the other. These feuds are divisive, and distract black women from life's more important battles. Photo: Cheryl Gerber/AP Images for P&G

  • 8. All hair has meaning, and yet no meaning

    All hair is subject to interpretation, and this will never change. <a href="http://www.essence.com/2012/06/09/solange-addresses-natural-hair-police-says-hair-is-not-important/" target="_hplink">Whatever someone's personal reason for adopting a particular style</a>, others may view that choice differently. Black women get judged over their hair, but then so do blondes, redheads and women with shaved heads. From this perspective, hair will forever be political and apolitical simultaneously. Photo: Getty Images

  • 9. Perceived meanings can't be trusted

    <a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/contessa-gayles/going-natural-without-joining-the-movement_b_1660286.html" target="_hplink">Reverting to natural hair</a> is often talked about alongside adjectives such as "self-acceptance," "freedom" and "political awareness." But these terms could just as easily apply to a black woman with a blonde weave, who chooses her style while being fully "aware." All assumptions based on aesthetics alone must be outlawed. Photo: Getty Images

  • 10. Keep salon culture alive

    Whether hair is natural or processed, black women enjoy the ritual of getting their hair professionally done in a salon. Not only are they also valued meeting places for chat and gossip, but they also support a large multi-ethnic community of hair care professionals who rely on their patronage. Photo: Eric Reed/AP Images for AIDS Healthcare Foundation

'Black Beauty' is out now. www.arogundade.com

 
 
 

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This is an exciting time for black beauty. Black women all over the world are discussing their hair and beauty choices as a result of the so-called natural hair revolution that is sweeping across many...
This is an exciting time for black beauty. Black women all over the world are discussing their hair and beauty choices as a result of the so-called natural hair revolution that is sweeping across many...
 
 
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
abolishinsanity
06:44 PM on 07/26/2012
insofar as black women wearing their hair naturally, as soon as a majority of them do, whites will start doing the same thing. It happened in the sixties, and in the eighties (dreadlocks), and I predict it will happen again. And just as whites assume all black folks have kinky hair (not true), blacks also assume that whites all have straighter hair. This is also not true; surprisingly a lot of white folks also have kinky hair, but they straighten it. It will all come out in the open, mark my words.
05:41 PM on 09/16/2012
its all a matter of personal choice.... for the one women who have certain types of hair and for the men who seek those types of hair....
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
abolishinsanity
06:36 PM on 07/26/2012
I'm sorry, but in today's society, black women are usually the last in line when it comes to beauty, especially in the eyes of America's black men, so why be interested in their definition of black female beauty? Black women are gorgeous, with or without natural hair, or the so-called approval of American black men. Try treating black women with more respect and maybe they might be willing to take your opinions more seriously.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Darius Molark
de gustibus non est disputandum
03:57 AM on 07/22/2012
Excellent article and I note that most of it concentrated on hair. Importantly it mentions how those who control the media control the image we have of ourselves. Are ourselves more than that image? I think so. Does this 'ourselve' stand outside the chemical industry that straightens hair? I would hope so, but it does not. Does the 'ourselves' have any important values to inculcate into the world? Apparently, but perhaps most comfortably through the chemical industry. It's okay if some of 'ourselves' are invested in that industry and receiving profit or working in it at least as scientists to discover new ways of killing hair cells. As you have said, the social thing is pretty cool and important about it. I just think other things are burned away.
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02:15 PM on 07/21/2012
Thank you for these intelligent words concerning our hair and the choices we make concerning it. There are far too few thoughtful discussions concerning this topic.
04:48 AM on 07/20/2012
Interesting Editorial.I live in Zimbabwe and my daughter who is only four is already asking for "flowy hair".lets empower our children.lets teach them the beauty that lies in "black hair".the media/advertising is not doing us any good.i couldnt find a singe doll with an afro!!!
12:41 AM on 07/20/2012
First of all no one needs any rules of how one should wear their hair. There's a lot of insecurity in the black community because mothers and father are either not there or too busy to be in the lives of their children. They don't have a mother to tell them they are beautiful or the father to keep to protect from this world. Education start at home, don't blaming on race, don't blame it on white, the blame goes to yo and only you. My mother gave me a perm when I was 11 years and my sister started at 13 just because my mother was too busy to handle my hair. After year of burn and damage hair, I cut off my hair 2 years ago and I became natural. Some black hair can handle relaxers but my hair can't handle this kind of strong chemicals.
I have seen many little black girls with relaxers, weave, pony tail and awful looking dyes and hair colors. I always wonder, did the parents saw these kids leaving the house. There is some serious issues in the black community, insecurities, parents not being involve and neglected. Please stop this B.S with rules and blame it on everyone else but the black community.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
mom2sons
INever doubt that a group of comitted citizens can
12:30 PM on 07/20/2012
I also see little girls with natural hair....not everyone is perming their child's hair. Stop the myths. You go way too far in your over generalizations of the black community.
03:16 PM on 07/20/2012
I see many little black girls with weave, perms please this is not myth stop trying to hide the problem.  I am not generalizing I only say what I see. I have natural hair and there are plenty of black women who are now natural or have been natural most of their lives.Myth is myth and fact is fact. 
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
syds180turn
Independent and Proud of It!
06:22 PM on 07/19/2012
Has anyone ever thought that not all Black women have curly hair or natural hair. I've been asked many times what type of relaxer I use and that I should stop using chemicals in my hair. Well, much to their surprise, I don't use relaxers because my hair is naturally straight. We have far more pressing issues to worry about than how someone wears their hair. It's a personal choice and we should not have to explain to anyone about those choices. As for acceptance and self-awareness, give me a break. Emotional insecurities can happen to anyone and it doesn't always have to do with one's hair or how you look. Then there are those who are very much their own person and couldn't care less what anyone thinks about them or their hairstyle. This topic of conversation has been worn out. We know that the white media controls every image put out in the world. But it is up to us to do a lot less fighting with each other and turn our anger towards them. Stop sitting by complacently accepting what they feed us and fight back. One way is in their bottom line. Stop contributing to their wealth by turning off TV shows, buying magazines, tickets to films...any and everything that doesn't portray us in a true light and will hit them in their wallets. This is the only way they will hear you because money is really all most of big business understands.
01:32 AM on 07/19/2012
I found your article to be positive and empowering. The 10 Rules, perhaps the 10 suggestions should/does serve as a point of reference in which insightful persons could see the true essence is for all black women to arrive at self-acceptance and then engage mutual respect for one another in our choices. Black hair offers epic style diversity a positive that is never fully appreciated nor celebrated because we judge and abuse one another for how we choose to wear our own hair. Your article affirms this position to me.

The black male does engage in the exact same choices as black women when it comes to hair; he can do the s-curl relaxer, his waves are stylish, if he is gray he is wise, if he has neatly shaped dreads he is powerful, he can throw in some integrated weave and he is then seen as creative.

A black female can engage any of those same choices and get a major beat down. Why? Female black beauty is in crisis due to abuse and constant negativity.

I think your 10 rules can jump start a major revolution / conversation in how that needs to change; the slavery mentality and self-hate is not about the texture, nor color of our hair but rather how we verbally and emotionally beat one another up instead of celebrating and lifting one another up concerning our hair choices. Great article check out my blog www.strandzofadiva.wordpress.com
Thanks
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Samirah1368
Waking up to an Obama Presidency. Sweeeeet!
12:01 AM on 07/19/2012
Exactly
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Samirah1368
Waking up to an Obama Presidency. Sweeeeet!
12:01 AM on 07/19/2012
Actually white hair is limited which is why most white women wear the same style. Not that it is a slight but I feel you were making one when you say our hair is not versatile. I can wear a different style everyday of the week
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Samirah1368
Waking up to an Obama Presidency. Sweeeeet!
11:56 PM on 07/18/2012
Meh
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
TRUTHHURTS500
02:51 PM on 07/18/2012
You made up this "Natural hair revolution". You like all others have it backwards. Relaxing hair was the revolution. No woman is born with relaxer in their hair, natural hair is what you are born with. Stop buying into the "Mainstream" BS!
11:56 AM on 07/18/2012
Women of color globally
are constantly subjected
through the media to a Caucasian
standard of beauty. White people
globally only represent 10%
of the world’s population.
Click here to see why
its time for women of
color to redefine beauty
on their own terms http://bit.ly/ra07Tw

P.S. Black women in America
spend over $10 billion dollars
a year mostly trying to straighten naturally
curly hair. Instead, think what that
money could do to empower their minds
and personal wealth.
11:42 AM on 07/18/2012
I'm a black woman who wears natural hair. It wasn't a political statement, it wasn't about self-love it wasn't about anything but me. These articles about how natural hair v. straight hair are silly (to me). Who cares! Wear what looks good on you and move on. If a man finds you more attractive b/c he likes straight hair, then you aren't the chick for him or vice versa.

Let's stop making black women's hair choice a platform for debate. We have other issues to worry about. And, if you don't... that's very telling about you.
10:50 AM on 07/18/2012
When the ariticle begines with such an obvious lack of reality, I didn't expect it would get much better. Actions do not make one black. DNA makes one black...do you really think you can take aways someones African DNA if their 'actions' aren't black enough? Secondly, RULE ONE: wear your hair as YOU want to wear it...and end of rules. Why the need for all the other rules? Those rules are setting the groundrules for the belief that there is something wrong with being white, and therefore for a black person to have 'white hair' is selling out your black race. WRONG...theres nothing wrong with being white or having 'white hair'! By the way, the style options for natural hair are...short to medium to big afro maybe throw in afro puffs...but pretty limited. Last thought...are corn rows out too...whats the rule on that?
08:08 PM on 07/18/2012
Black people don't have white hair. They have black hair that they douse in chemicals to measure up to Eurocentric beauty norms. There is something wrong with that.
12:06 AM on 07/19/2012
Thats logical only if there is something wrong with being Eurocentric...I know black people seem to assume that something is wrong with being white, but has anybody offered any proof? And you do understand that there are chemicals that white people douse their hair in to make their hair curlier? Hmmm
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
LaFemmeSASE
09:50 AM on 07/24/2012
I still cane row my hair, not too worry, it isn't out.