The Inauguration from Moscow, Russia

As the dignitaries, foreign ambassadors and other VIPs make their way to Spaso House (the official residence of the American ambassador in Moscow) for the U.S. inauguration party in Moscow, ordinary Russians and thousands of expats are celebrating the inauguration their own way.

Starlite Diner, the American restaurant near Moscow's Oktyaberskaya Metro station, is filled to the brim -- two hours before the inauguration. Smoke-free and serving quesadillas, it is no wonder Starlite is a favorite hangout for expats (especially Americans). The election watch party hosted by Democrats Abroad in Russia drew hundreds of supporters. For being former Cold War foes, Russians are surprisingly supportive of Barack Obama. Speaking with law students from Moscow State University tonight, I am struck by their knowledge of the American electoral process and their familiarity with the 2008 election. As we search the CNN screens for Obama, one Russian student actually picked out Rep. Xavier Becerra and Kucinich in a line of congressmen filing in. Perhaps this is self-selection at work; those most interested in American politics all meet together to watch the election. But there is something much bigger at play too.

I received a call earlier from a Russian student whom I met while lecturing at the Higher School of Economics, Alexander Korkunov. He invited me to a small house party which he and his friends were holding in his apartment. A grassroots U.S. inaugural watch party in Moscow -- the thought! I regretfully declined the invitation but spoke with him at some length. He wanted to know how so many people could gather in the capital without any threat of violence and whether this threatened the government in any way. The first question made sense. Political protests in Moscow are guarded by OMON, the special police in ratios that sometimes eclipse 10 to 1. That's ten guards for a given protester. With over 25,000 police officers in D.C., we have more troops in the capital than in all of Afghanistan. But the latter question betrayed a deeper ambivalence about the political situation at home. Nonetheless, spontaneous watch parties across Moscow is an encouraging bit of news.

The Beast, an unpleasant name for Obama's limo, just pulled in to the Capitol and I must go to the screens. But before I go, I must say how impressed I am by the technology which makes all of this possible. Ari Melber's coverage of the netroots movement underpinning Obama's campaign is prizeworthy. But lest we get lost in the ones and zeros on Barack Obama's 3 million strong Facebook group and the 2 million strong forest of supporters who are in D.C., it's important to remember the personal stories that made this victory possible. HuffPo and MoveOn.org's idea to distribute one million name tags to the supporters was a brilliant way to humanize the event. Bloggers from all over the world and all over the country, some writing about their experiences on the campaign trail, some about the unsung heros of the campaign, and others about the reactions to the inauguration from around the world will make this the best documented presidential campaign, inauguration and presidency in American history. Not only is this a boon for future historians, but what an excellent opportunity to bond with one another.

I will post photos and add some more stories from Russia briefly.

Comments

[Am-Expat]

I attended two parties in St Petersburg, one hosted at the Hotel Grand Europe and attended by the consul General and others from the US Consulate. The other was a spontaineous affair made up almost exclusively by young local Russians who were all quite interested in Obama and knew a lot about his campaign. But mostly they were interested in making sure that Bush was really and truly gone so the world would be a safer, healthier and greener place. The dislike of Bush was greater than the enthusiasm for Obama, but all seemed to agree that Obama seems like a reasonable, likable and intellegent person. They are waiting to see if Obama reverses Bush policies before passing judgment but were optimistic.
There are not as many US expats living in St Petersburg compared to Moscow where most are there for employment, here, the expats are here primarily because they want to live here. Due to being well intigrated into local society there is no "American hangout" like most world capitals have. The attendees to the first party were equally divided between Americans and Russian nationals with a number of European citizens added to the mix.

Everyone in both parties seem to assume the relations with Russia would improve. I have to assume that relations with all countries will improve with Obama setting the tone and policy of engagement, but there is also wariness about the old guard Cold Warriors he has surrounding him.

[SiberianRat]

I and two Russian friends watched (via internet) and raised our glasses to the new prez in my kitchen in Siberia.

[JeffmChicago]

That's an interesting read about Russia. I recently had a co-worker that was from Russia and she visited there often with her family. We were discussing our past travels thru Europe. I told her I wouldn't mind visiting Russia, she said it would a difficult for me there because I'm black and Russian people would discriminate against me. I informed her that I felt welcome in Milan, Venice, Dubrovnik and many other places in Europe. She said the Eastern Euro countries are different because there are far few people of color. She seemed as if she was sincere but then again I don't know, might she had been projecting?

Great read, though. Thanks!

[SiberianRat]

It is true--there is an unsettling degree of racial intolerance in Russia. However, anything can happen anywhere--do some research on the issue and decide for yourself if you're comfortable. It's certainly an interesting place to visit.

[Am-Expat]

There is some fear and discrimination towards people called "black", the people of the southern Caucuses, the Caucasians because of past terrorist attacks in Moscow and Beslan. Larger cities have a great number of blacks attending university, mostly from Africa where there has always been good relationships with Russia, and from the US..

Visit the larger cities where there is a wide range of peoples and languages mixing well . There have been highly publicized news items in the west about Skin Heads causing problems and several murders over the last 5 years which has convinced everyone, even here that there is a major problem. But what is not reported in the west are the efforts by ordinary citizens to counter the Skin-heads, who are no longer even seen in cities like St Petersburg, they are not tolerated.

The chance of harm is much higher in the US than here, but if you stubbed your toe here, it would make very negative headlines in the western press. The incidence of street crime is very low, and of that which does occur is primarily by non-confrontational pickpockets, not gun wielding violent criminals like major cities in the US have.
Come visit, the culture, history and beauty of the cities and the hospitality of the people should not be missed. The young people in particular are very well educated, and have a world view that is very international and modern quite unlike in the US where most people have never traveled.

[easarsfield]

wonderful story, Boris, thank you!

Given the current state of russo-american relations, this is really encouraging news. I think it goes to show that the world doesn't hate America, but they certainly take issue with some of our leaders (and rightfully so).