Backtracking a bit

Joseph had worked hard to secure a meeting with a well-known Congolese women's rights activist, sending numerous emails prior to our trip requesting an appointment. He finally got a response from her. She wanted to know the specific reasons for my desire to meet.

Many individuals,...

Port Goma -

Joseph tells me once again to put away my camera-- "You're not allowed to take pictures at the port. It's considered a military zone." A shame because the port is full of action--orange sparks fly as men weld giant fishing vessels supported by rusty steel girders and...

There are spies among us --

I have an admission. I have a little crush on Georgio Trombatore. Georgio works for International Medical Corps. IMC is a not-for-profit organization that brings emergency medical care to global crisis situations. And Georgio Trombatore is IMC's Field Coordinator. He will be giving us...

Clinic Gesom is a small, depressing, terribly underfunded NGO. Kizito has set up the appointment thinking I should see the smaller, 'less traveled' clinics. It is here I meet Zyiranzikubwimana Ziyonsara (her name has been changed to protect against possible reprisal attacks).

Zyiranzikubwimana Ziyonsara is 20 years old. She...

Crossing the border

The border is nuts!

Young men in uniform roam around, I wouldn't say wielding big guns; it's more that they wear their rifles like satchels, casually draped over their shoulders. Swarms of people, many of them "paperless," try to slip by the rank and file across...

I wanted to wait and write when I understood more about the politics behind the mind-bending atrocities going on here, but it will take much, much more time for me to absorb, process, and understand the components and intricacies that perpetuate this senseless and obscene war. Every day I see...