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Chris Elam

Chris Elam

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2 Chefs Working to Change the Industrialized-Food System

Posted: 04/13/11 02:44 PM ET

As the good food movement marches on, sometimes surging, sometimes plodding, many of us are left with a nagging question: what should be done next? Emboldened by last year's Congressional victories and the impressive rise of farmers markets (among many other markers), but also under constant threat from the deep pockets of Big Ag. and the defunding zealots within government, people are asking where do we go from here? If the ultimate goal is to make healthy food available to the greatest number of folks, then where will the systemic changes that we need come from?

In my humble opinion, it will be spurred by two factions: Innovators with bold vision; and corporations with budgets and mandates that aren't tied to Congressional shell games. With this in mind, I reached out to two leaders doing exceptional work bringing good food to lots of people. I wanted to get their quick thoughts on the way forward.

Spearheading the food revolution taking place in the New Haven Public School System, Executive Director of Food Services Timothy Cipriano serves nutritious meals to over 20,000 children every day, 80% of which are on free or reduced plans.

Chris Elam: So tell us what's happening up in New Haven?

Timothy Cipriano: Real food, actually. No nuggets, tenders or that stuff. No breaded mozzarella sticks. No flavored milk. No competitive foods. I'm talking REAL food - and local too! We served 140,000 pounds of Connecticut-grown produce last year - and that doesn't include the student grown produce from our school gardens and school farm.

CE: Sadly for too many school districts nationwide, I bet that sounds pretty radical.

TC: Yeah but I don't do it to be radical. I do it because we have a huge childhood hunger problem in this country. When they're in school, these kids should be eating real food. Why should it even be questioned?

CE: It's interesting that you mention childhood hunger, when so much of the press attention these days is focused on childhood obesity.

TC: Childhood hunger in this country is a major issue. Just because a child is obese doesn't mean he or she has access to unlimited food. Too often, it just means lack of access to nutritious foods. In other words, the very foods that children need to grow both physically and mentally.

CE: So how have you created such an amazing program?

TC: You just need the will. The resources are out there, just tap into them. First off, to focus our energy and our finances, we offer one good meal with deli sandwich or salad as a choice rather than menuing multiple hot-lunch offerings. That saves time and money. We also work with the USDA's Healthier U.S. School Challenge to gain additional funding, and LET'S MOVE's Salad Bars to Schools program has helped build out our salad bars, plus the Chefs Move to Schools program has engaged and activated our kids about where their food comes from. You'll find all our menus here plus our program descriptions. And you can follow our adventures via my twitter @LocalFoodDude.


Chef Dave Willard, National Executive Chef for Sodexo Health Care, the premiere food services provider for hospitals around the country, works in an entirely different environment, but his passion and commitment to nutritious food preparation are the same.

Chris Elam: So Chef Dave what really needs to change with our current food system?

Dave Willard: In general, I think people are moving towards more mindful eating. As an industry, we need to respond to that. We need to be where consumers want to be. The industry sees the wave, make no mistake, the data is there. It's just a question of what we're going to do about it.

CE: Do corporations have a role in the dialogue?

DW: Absolutely. At Sodexo, our mission is to provide a set of solutions. Most companies in our space tend to be product-focused. Here's a group of products, here's a bunch of menus. What we're trying to do is provide solutions that can help you elevate your quality of life -- whether you're a patient, visitor or hospital employee. Sodexo focuses on outcomes, offering the right balance of healthy food and educational materials, for the maximum result. More and more, we're thinking in terms of health & wellness.

CE: Considering that your budget isn't controlled by government mandate or political maneuverings, like that of school food budgets, you have the freedom to go where consumers are, as you say. So what are you offering them?

DW: We have a Better Tomorrow Plan, which outlines our 14 commitments to sustainability, spanning nutrition, community and the environment. Meatless Monday is a program we're rolling out to all our clients. First in our 900+ hospitals, then in our nearly 2000 corporate clients, with government offices, colleges and school districts to follow. Meatless Monday is a logical fit for us. It meets our nutrition as well as our environmental sustainability needs. And it's been a huge hit with our customers! We're thrilled actually with the response so far.

CE: Are there logistical challenges to providing plant-based meals to so many people?

DW: Not really, to be honest. Our #1 priority: it has to be great food. The practices aren't really that different. The greater challenge is remaining focused on our health mandate. I can make very unhealthy plant-based foods if I choose. In my business, salty fatty foods have certain side-benefits. These qualities help preserve food, where you can cook it well in advance, where it remains moist. But we've mastered all the tricks that allow us to do the same with low-fat, low-salt foods.

CE: Finally, what's your favorite plant-based dish that you serve?

DW: Hmmm. I think my favorite is a pretty humble item, the Portobello Rustico Sandwich. It's just a whole wheat roll, grilled Portobello mushrooms, roasted red peppers, feta cheese, spinach and a vinaigrette dressing to tie it all together. It's very simple, but it balances out nicely. It's fulfilling, has variety, and texture - it hits all the triggers. Sweet, hearty, a little bit of salt. It's been incredibly successful!


In an email exchange I had recently with Chef Ann Cooper, known as the Renegade Lunch Lady for her tireless work in support of healthy school food, this notion of nutritious institutional food was seconded. "Meatless Mondays in schools will expose kids to more plant-based entrees, but I could also see the big food companies simply developing some sort of soy/sawdust patty, which wouldn't be real food at all. We need to be certain that school food is based on fresh fruit, fresh vegetables, whole grains and clean protein so that vegetarian options don't become just more processed stuff!"

With Chef Ann's advice firmly in mind, Meatless Monday has launched its Bulk Recipe resource page. It's a great tool to help campus, school, worksite or other food providers make healthy institutional-size recipes. All the recipes come from tried-and-true resources: Chef Ann herself, the USDA, the Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine, the New York Coalition for Healthy School Foods, among others, and serve between 30-400 people, but average about 75 people. Think: high in veggies and grains, low in cheese, perfect for a cafeteria, a work party or even an outdoor picnic! Check out the new Meatless Monday Bulk Recipes.

 

Follow Chris Elam on Twitter: www.twitter.com/MeatlessMonday

As the good food movement marches on, sometimes surging, sometimes plodding, many of us are left with a nagging question: what should be done next? Emboldened by last year's Congressional victories an...
As the good food movement marches on, sometimes surging, sometimes plodding, many of us are left with a nagging question: what should be done next? Emboldened by last year's Congressional victories an...
 
 
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Gutts
If I were a Transformer, I would be Ultra Magnus
03:31 PM on 04/22/2011
lost me at sodexho
jaslyn
why can't we all just get along?
02:21 PM on 04/17/2011
Bravo Chefs. People should try to buy locally grown food whenever possible, the food should be real food ; you CAN eat simply AND cheaply when you don't buy over processed fake food, and animal products that are not only expensive but unhealthy, disease creating, clog your arteries, make you fat, thereby creating a host of other diseases. It's not rocket science.
09:59 PM on 04/17/2011
In fantasy land perhaps, but in reality a meta-analysis of many studies on the issue of saturated fat and heart disease, spanning a whopping 347,747 test subjects, concluded that there was absolutely no connection between saturated fat and heart disease whatsoever. You claims about meat clogging arteries have no basis in reality. In fact, in numerous studies comparing low-fat diets to high-fat diets, the high-fat dieters actually had significantly BETTER heart health indicators than the low-fat dieters. And numerous studies have shown that vegetarians tend to have much higher homocysteine levels than omnivopres on average, which is a main indicator of heart disease.

The country with the highest vegetarian population in the world, India, is also the heart attack capital of the world. In fact the WHO has predicted that more than half of all of the heart attacks in people under 50 on the entire plante will happen in just one single country... India.
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FaunaAndFlora
Daughter of Pan
12:14 AM on 04/18/2011
Hello, friend. I was worried about you when I first heard news of the storms that hit your part of the country. Glad to see you survived and still have power.
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Hydra8
CEO, Monkey Business
10:05 AM on 04/15/2011
A study released today by a medical journal states that 50 % of US meat is infected with staph infection that is resistant to antibiotics. How sick is this? You wonder why Russia bans US meat imports into their country. Their scientists have found: excessive amounts of hormones, antibiotics, drugs and chemicals in US foods and they refuse to buy it for their own population.

This "biodiversity sustainable nonsense" will end up killing people if the US govt keeps allowing the factory farm corporations to call the shots. There is no food shortage, a good 30% of food is thrown away in the US, you have to wonder why people are throwing more food away into the garbage, because it is simply that : garbage. We have to get back to organic farming only, not corporate farming. Reference: http://www.politicolnews.com/mcdonalds-mystery-mcnuggets/

http://www.politicolnews.com/why-russia-bans-us-meat/
If the Russians won't buy it, why are Americans being sold tainted foods?
12:34 AM on 04/15/2011
"If the ultimate goal is to make healthy food available to the greatest number of folks, then where will the systemic changes that we need come from?"

A great start would be to stop demonizing sustainably produced animal foods. Animals are essential to all of the major forms of sustainable agriculture. Biodiverse farms are the healthiest farms. In fact a recent UN study found that biodiverse farming with animals is the ONLY way to feed the poorest people in the world. Sending bags of grain half way around the world and funding industrial chemical fertilizers and pesticides, instead of sustainably farming with animal inputs and creating biodiverse farms based on local ecosystems has been a disaster on many levels.

Demonizing the role of animals in agriculture and diet is part of the problem, not the solution.
jaslyn
why can't we all just get along?
02:24 PM on 04/17/2011
To raise a pound of beef is many times more expensive than a pound of veggies, does major harm to the planet, and is unhealthy causing cancer and/or heart disease. Eating animals makes no sense either way. Making excuse to continue the addiction of your tastebuds to flesh doesn't counteract real evidence.
09:53 PM on 04/17/2011
jaslyn, from the sound of it, I am guessing that you have never actually stepped foot on a sustainable farm. Biodiversity, meaning a balance of plants, animals, and microorganisms that reflect a given ecosystem, is literally the basis of every major form of sustainable agriculture. Parroting ignorant rhetoric from vegangelical websites won't actually fly with anyone who knows what they are talking about. Your claims about heart disease are absolutely false, and as a matter of fact, vegans have higher rates of cancer than omnivores in some studies. And along with that, repeated studies have shown that more than half of all vegans have severe B12 deficiencies, which is downright terrifying.

If you had ever stepped foot on a sustainable farm, you would know that sustainably pastured animals require very little more than sun, rain, and inedible grasses. And you would also know that as opposed to all plant ag, it actually improves the vitality of the soil and increases biodiversity in the process. Conversely, a single acre of perennial grassland can be home to more than a million creatures, and when it is plowed to make room for rows of the shallow-rooted annuals that you are touting, the ecosystem for all of those creatures is obliterated in the process, and many die horrific deaths. The soil vitality is also annihilated through oxidization.
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Hydra8
CEO, Monkey Business
03:05 PM on 04/17/2011
@ Wild is the wind
I think I read your same answer on another website, about Bio sustainable bio diverse -it is all about factory farming.

We don't need factory farms, that pollute the food system, remember the salmonella poisoned eggs last year? The tainted beef, vegetables, fruits, all of which are grown by monsanto pesticide seeds? Is this what you call " healthy farms"?

Animals are not the only way to feed a population, if your diet is mainly meat, you going to get colon cancer -that is guaranteed.

No, the only way to feed the poorest people in the world is to teach them to grow organic food for themselves, not buy US grade F - beef.
Our products are so poor in nutrition, safety and health- no one wants to buy them.

There is no food shortage, read the statistics on how much food is thrown away each year in America, how much of it is because of what's in it?

As the old saying goes " garbage in- garbage out". Multi-national factory food producers have injected so many hormones, dyes, antibiotics and now viruses into the food supply- it is no longer safe to eat US produced foods.

So much for your plan to mass produce farm animals, it has not been done safely or correctly. Only nature produces the healthiest foods, unencumbered by mankind.
12:06 AM on 04/18/2011
Hydra, what on Earth are you talking about? For one thing, your claim that I am pushing factory farming is downright laughable. Apparently you didn't even read my post before responding to it.

For another thing, as opposed to conventional agriculture, which uses chemical fertilizers derived from petrochemicals, virtually all organic agriculture uses animal inputs. In other words, you don't have any idea of what you are talking about.

And by the way, the oldest man in the world just died, and his favorite meal was liver and onions, so so much for your fallacious nonsense about meat causing colon cancer. In fact, in some studies, vegans have been shown to have significantly higher rates of stomach cancers than omnivores.
01:11 PM on 04/14/2011
I've been advocating for class gardens and school farms in my district. The town is going to rennovate or rebuild the high school, and I'm trying to have a farm incorporated into the design.

This district's model coupled with the no-waste model employed in one of New Jersey's school districts provide excellent paradigms for many schools to eliminate food waste, provide healthy meals, and engender an agricultural education in their students without greatly affecting budgets.

A school can even offset a portion of it's energy footprint by utilizing an anaerobic digester to process the food waste directly into methane/biogas and fertilizer for the farm or gardens.