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Meathead Goldwyn

Meathead Goldwyn

Posted: June 24, 2010 01:11 AM

The single most essential concept an outdoor cook needs to understand is the importance of temperature control and how to use a 2-zone setup.

2010-06-23-indirect_gas.jpgWhether you are cooking on an El Cheapo Charcoal Grill from Wally World, a Super Sabre Jet Stainless Steel Gas Grill from Williams of Napa, or a Texas Tinkermann Iron Tube Competitor mounted on a trailer, most outdoor cooking goes best if you use a 2-zone setup. Even if you are only cooking hot dogs.

To cook delicious food, you need to control your cooking temperature because the compounds in foods react differently to different levels of heat. For example, meats are composed of protein, water, fat, collagen, and some sugars, and each component changes drastically at different temperatures. Fats render at one temp, water evaporates at another, collagens melt at another, sugar caramelizes at another, the Maillard reaction (a.k.a. browning of proteins) occurs at another, and carbonization (a.k.a. charring or burning) occurs at yet another temp.

To gain control of temp, a 2-zone setup is ideal because it gives you much better control over temperature and method of applying heat. In a 2-zone setup, you have one side of the grill that is hot and producing radiant direct heat, and the other side is producing no heat and food on that side cooks by indirect convection heat. We'll call one the direct zone and the other the indirect zone.

For a charcoal grill, just push the coals to one side to setup a 2-zone cooking system. For a gas grill, just turn off a burner or two or three and placing the food over the burners that are off to roast with indirect convection heat.

2 zones for temperature control

2010-06-23-2_zone_setup.jpgThe most common mistake outdoor cooks make is using too much direct heat. That's how they burn things. That's how foods get tough and dry. If meat is exposed to very high heat for too long, the proteins get their undies in a bunch and shrink, squeezing out the liquids, and the result is tough dry meat.


Using a 2-zone setup allows you to control the temp applied to the food. You can sear the exterior of a thick steak over high heat in the direct zone to get great flavor from browning, and then move it to the indirect zone to prevent burning and finish cooking the interior at a more moderate temperature.

2 zones for different foods

A 2-zone setup is especially handy if you have more than one food cooking at once where the thickness and water content of the two is significantly different so they will cook at different rates. For example, you might put stuffed tomatoes or stuffed peppers in the indirect zone to roast gently for about 20 minutes, and then put steaks or chops on the direct zone to sear quickly.


An indirect zone is particularly helpful for preventing food from burning if it is very sweet or if there is sugar in the rub or sauce. Slices of pineapple are great on the grill, but can burn quicklt if put over direct heat.

2 zones for slow roasting

Roasts, like pork loin or beef roasts, or even whole chickens will burn badly if put over direct heat. They need to go in the indirect zone.


Add a water pan or two, especially if you are smoke roasting


Here's another useful technique: When you are cooking indirect with convection heat, you are roasting. If you add smoke to the atmosphere, you are smoke roasting. If you add a water pan under the meat you are adding moisture to the atmosphere and if the water pan is above the heat you are further protecting the meat from direct heat and the water absorbs heat helping to keep the temperature down. Smoke roasting, which is usually done at low temperatures for a long time can dry out the meat, so putting humidity into the atmosphere can help keep the meat moist. In addition, moisture mixes with the combustion gasses, especially on a gas grill, and creates desirable flavors.


2010-06-23-wsm_cross_section.jpgSome smokers, like the Weber Smokey Mountain (right), come with a water pan. That's it just beneath the ham and above the charcoal. Leave it in and you are cooking indirect. Take it out and you are cooking direct. The water pan helps stabilize and lower oven temp and adds humidity to the oven. It can also catch drips for sauce. Here's an article on how to set up a WSM for moist smoke roasting. Click here for more on setting up a WSM.

On a charcoal grill, fill up a chimney, wait til the coals are white, dump the coals all on one side of the bottom rack, and put a water pan on the other. Put the top rack on, put the meat on the top rack above the water pan, and another water pan on the top rack above the coals. Follow the same concept on other charcoal grills. Click here another article on how to set up a charcoal grill for moist smoke roasting.

2010-06-23-smokenator21.jpgThe metal insert on the right side of this Weber Kettle grill is called a Smokenator and it keeps the coals off to one side so, as in the photo, you can put your ribs on other side for low and slow indirect smoke roasting, and you can put more meat below on the bottom rack, or, as in this photo, a pan of beans under the ribs to catch the drippings. If you have a Weber Kettle, you need one of these handy attachments. Just click the link above.

The gas grill below is set up with a water pan under the meat for indirect cooking and to collect drippings. The pan is filled with wine, fruit, herbs, onions, and more goodies to make a flavorful stock for gravy. To the left is a small pan with wood chips for smoke. It is resting on a hot burner so the chips will smolder. Click here for more on how to make the ultimate smoked turkey, even on a gas grill. Click here for an article on how to set up a gas grill for moist smoke roasting.
2010-06-23-turkey_during2.jpg

Tell us your favorite grilling tips below.

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All text and photos except the WSM are Copyright (c) 2010 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved. For more of Meathead's writing, photos, and recipes, please visit his website AmazingRibs.com, friend him on Facebook, or follow him on Twitter.

 

Follow Meathead Goldwyn on Twitter: www.twitter.com/ribguy

The single most essential concept an outdoor cook needs to understand is the importance of temperature control and how to use a 2-zone setup. Whether you are cooking on an El Cheapo Charcoal Grill fr...
The single most essential concept an outdoor cook needs to understand is the importance of temperature control and how to use a 2-zone setup. Whether you are cooking on an El Cheapo Charcoal Grill fr...
 
 
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Rick Scheuer
Techincal writer, architectural specifier
02:22 PM on 06/28/2010
Craig:

My weekend Smokenator results - I was going to conduct the 'dry run' recommended by the manufacturer, but as they were practically giving away ribs and split chicken at Safeway, I decided to try with food (though I usually rub the meat the day before and refrigerate, reapply just before cooking) and with the exception of a heat spike early on (before I added the food) which was the result of using too many lit briquettes and easily remedied, damned if it didn't just stay at a constant 230-240 F(at the dome, 210-220 Fat the food) for the entire 5-1/2 hours. I did adjust the vents, but mostly just to see the corresponding temperature fluctuations. As half-a**ed bbq went though, it was pretty tasty. Thanks again!
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Hutchy
If you're not laughing you're not paying attention
01:24 PM on 06/28/2010
Yoinks!

That was some fine brisket!

12 hours later the house was full of yum. Indirect heat rules, as do huge slabs of beef. Low and slow, that's the ticket.

I can't wait to make chili or enchiladas with the leftovers, if I don't eat them standing at the fridge late at night.
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awa611
She's a snarl-toothed seether.....
10:57 AM on 06/28/2010
Yes! I will concur all points above. I've have been using those methods for years and get rave reviews at backyard cookouts. I will advise all outdoor cooks to experiment, too. I smoke ribs and chicken and it doesn't necessarily have to be done the way the "experts" tell you. I smoke in a regular charcoal grill. I use the methods above to control the time it takes for the meat to cook. And it doesn't have to take all day to smoke baby back ribs or chicken. And they are smokin' delicious!!
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01:14 AM on 06/28/2010
Hey, Craig, I'm a know-it-all barbecue lover from my youth, and I'm not so young anymore. I certify that your techniques are state-of-the-art, and I used to know it all, but since I've followed your blogs, I now know a little more.

I tried your Memphis Dust on some baby backs this weekend and I liked it a lot. I look forward to checking out the Vermont Pig Candy. Thanks for all you've added. :)
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Hutchy
If you're not laughing you're not paying attention
02:04 PM on 06/27/2010
Brisket update....

It is now 11 am, time to check the fire. After staying up until 1:30 am for stupid reasons I got up and lit my offset smoker. Last night as I was getting stuff ready I talked myself out of a dry rub and into using just salt, leaving more options for using the meat in other recipes. This morning I went for a rub. I probably shoulda put it on last night, but I worked a long day and was foggy about the rub thing. It is in the smoker in a giant disposable aluminum roasting pan and I plan to flip it every three hours and start mopping after six hours. I started the fire with briquettes and fuel it with a blend of soaked chunks of hickory and hardwood charcoal. The brisket has been smoking at 200 deg. F. for four hours, the 'hood smells good...kinda like ribs squared.

I sure hope this think doesn't suck.
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02:47 AM on 06/27/2010
Great article as usual. I always leave these articles wanting to try some of these techniques and with more concise knowledge.
10:34 AM on 06/26/2010
As one of about a million beef farmers in this nation, I just want to thank everyone who enjoys cooking and eating(and buying) beef. This thread lowers my blood pressure, it has been a little high courtesy of Meathead's other thread.

Has there ever been a poll done on what type/brand of grill is the favorite?
04:23 PM on 06/26/2010
I have never seen a poll, but I have always had great luck with Weber brand products. They have a great reputation for standing behind these products.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
05:17 PM on 06/26/2010
According to the Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association (HPBA), almost 80% of American homes have a barbecue grill. in 2009 6.1 million charcoal were sold. 8.5 million gas. 0.3 million electric. I don't have stats on which brands are most popular, but I believe Weber is at or near the top, and the Weber Kettle may be #1.

And hang in there in the Meat v No Meat debate. You make good points. People need to hear from farmers.
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Hutchy
If you're not laughing you're not paying attention
10:02 PM on 06/25/2010
I like to split my charcoal grill pile in two (one on either side of a whole chicken) and dispose of the drip pan. The legs and thighs benefit from the more direct heat, and if you stuff some wet fresh thyme (growing in your front yeard, of course) in the cavity it keeps the breast tender and moist.

Oh, yeah, and always brine yer poultry.

I will explore the glory of whole brisket for the first timne on my offset smoker on Sunday. I have to get up at 5 am to have it ready by dinner. Beer for breakfast anyone?
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Aripottah
Celebrating conservative ineptitude since 1776
07:36 PM on 06/25/2010
Useful article, Thanks.
SamEasy
You really don`t want to know.
02:06 PM on 06/25/2010
Gas sucks!

Here is the best way to BBQ. I have been using one for years and it does a wonderful job on pretty much everything. The concept is growing more popular and now there are many other similar products available. But for myself I am dedicated to the EGG, Everybody I prepare food for tells me I am a pretty good cook, but then I have to explain that the credit goes to the cooker not the cook.

http://www.biggreenegg.com/
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
05:53 PM on 06/25/2010
Egg owners are religious. But I am here to tell you that gas is a fine way to cook everything EXCEPT steaks and chops that need to be seared over high heat. Charcoal just is better at that. Read this:
http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/grills/charcoal_grills_vs_gas_grills.html
03:47 PM on 06/26/2010
My dad used to have a Kamado which is similar to a an Egg. I cooked on it a few times and wish it was still in the family.

Over the years I have cooked on nearly every type of grill. They all seem to have strong and weak points. My personal preference has alway been charcoal and lump coal.Over the years I have probably inhaled quite a bit of charcoal dust, ash and smoke. This along with trying to keep my yard and patio free of the ash has prompted me to move to cooking on a gas grill more. This time I did it right and bought what is hopefully a high quality Gas grill that should last me 15+ years. Perhaps I will learn to match the taste of foods cooked over wood or coal with the gas grill, perhaps not. Tips from people like Craig and others posting here will make getting there easier.

Thanks
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Rick Scheuer
Techincal writer, architectural specifier
11:58 AM on 06/25/2010
Craig: Thanks for the heads up on the Smokinator insert for the Weber 22 kettle. I've done successful q for years in a kettle (my brinkmann water smoker has sort of rusted into place in the corner of my back yard from lack of use) - but this doo-dad should eliminate a lot of the fussing so I can be freed up to do the important things, like drink beer with friends and actually watch most of the ball game. But seriously, as I've gotten older, I've really come to believe that when it comes to real low-and-slow BBQ, the less you bother it the better (sort of like old men. . .)
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
05:54 PM on 06/25/2010
Smokenator is so simple. Just a bent piece of die cut steel with a few holes. But it works soooo well. I can smoke on a Weber Kettle as well as on a $2000 smoker.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
05:56 PM on 06/25/2010
And I should add that I have 6 smokers and 8 grills, gas, charcoal, electric, and pellet.
11:55 AM on 06/25/2010
Craig,

Are you a trained chef or did you learn on your own?
Hopefully some day I will have the chance to be part of a BBQ team and compete in local competitions.

Thanks for all the tips. Please keep them coming!
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
01:35 PM on 06/25/2010
I am self-taught. Dad & Mom had a restaurant when I was a teenager, but I just bused tables and worked as a jerk (soda jerk that is - some may say I am still a jerk). It went belly up, perhaps because they named it after the beautiful Oleander flower, which they later learned was poisonous.

I did teach at the Cordon Bleu School in Chicago for three years and I lectured at Cornell for 10 years and took advantage of the opportunity to audit classes. I read a lot and I'm addicted to Alton Brown.
02:53 PM on 06/26/2010
I am going to check my area for cooking schools that offer classes in BBQ along with basic to advanced cooking classes.
11:36 AM on 06/25/2010
BBQ Crusted Rack of Lamb

This recipe creates enough paste for up to 3 racks of lamb, but also works well for Leg of Lamb.

Paste
1 tbsp Finely chopped fresh rosemary
1 tbsp Finely chopped or pressed garlic
1 tbsp Olive oil
1 1/2 tbsp Grey Poupon or Dijon mustard


Up to 3 Racks of Lamb, each rack cut in half

1 1/2 cups Panko bread crumbs. Regular bread crumbs will also work

Salt and Pepper to taste

Mix paste ingredients and refrigerate until needed.
Trim off some of the fat if necessary leaving only a thin layer. Rinse under a stream of water and pat dry with a paper towel. Salt and pepper the lamb lightly. Rub a thin layer of paste all over lamb. Press the bread crumbs into the paste. Allow to stand at room temperature for 20 before cooking.

Set up the BBQ to cook medium hot indirect or about 400 deg. When the BBQ is preheated add a handful of soaked wood chips to the coals. My favorite blend for this recipe is 2 parts mesquite, 1 part hickory and 1 part pecan wood chips. Place lamb on grill, (not directly over the coals) cover and cook for 20 to 30 minutes or until done to your liking. Remove from grill and let rest for a couple minutes then serve.
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02:04 PM on 06/25/2010
I was surprised to learn a few years ago that pecan is a hickory. Natalie Dupree once suggested on her show that soaked pecan shells give an especially nice flavor too grilled chicken.
03:01 PM on 06/26/2010
My Mom's favorite dish was Rack of Lamb. The recipe above was one of her favorites.
11:01 AM on 06/25/2010
In my BBQ or grilling the use of lump coal and wood chips or chunks have become nearly as important as the recipes they are used to cook. I call it seasoning with wood. Blending different types of wood chips or chunks can make a huge difference in the taste of what you are cooking. Last weekend I grilled my signature Rack of Lamb for some friends. The woods used to season the Lamb have created my signature taste to the dish. For Lamb and Beef my favorite wood chip blend is 2 parts mesquite, 1 part hickory and 1 part pecan. This blend also works well with most Southwest flavored recipes. One handful of soaked chips added to the coals at the beginning of cooking is all it takes.

For dishes that cook in 10 minutes or less wood chips don't make much of a difference so I use lump coal.

If you would like my Rack of Lamb recipe let me know and I will post it.
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johnnygoodwud
08:58 AM on 06/25/2010
hey meathead, took your advice and popped for the red thermapen thermometer. going to give it a test run this weekend, while i do a bit of grilling, as my sox destroy the lonely cubs.
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10:13 AM on 06/25/2010
the cubs will tear your sox apart...:o)
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
01:36 PM on 06/25/2010
Lately it seems the Cubs have only been tearing the hearts out of their fans.
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05:29 PM on 06/25/2010
In a world of constant flux, isn't it nice to know you can always count on a few things?

Maybe not in this case.