More

Featuring fresh takes and real-time analysis from HuffPost's signature lineup of contributors
Meathead Goldwyn

Meathead Goldwyn

Posted: August 5, 2010 04:05 PM

The Zen of Burger Condiments

What's Your Reaction:

2010-08-05-double_cheeseburgers.jpg
Read more reports from Meathead's grill deck at AmazingRibs.com

"They were very, very hungry. They wanted to live in a land that treated them as equals, a land filled with hamburger stands. And not just one type of hamburger, okay? Hundreds of types with different sizes, toppings, and condiments." From Harold & Kumar Go To White Castle

The Sutter Home Winery's Build a Better Burger Contest puts a lot of emphasis on the condiments. "In my opinion," says James McNair, Honorary Chairman and Head Judge, "the meat patty is a major component of a good burger, but remains only one part of a burger. The bread, as Alice Waters stated in my first book on burgers, is equally important, and great condiments can elevate a plain burger into a sensational taste treat. At BBB we certainly want the patties, whether made from beef or another protein, to be high-quality, well seasoned, and nicely cooked, yet each of the other elements must be equally as good and exciting. Our contest is about creativity and good cooking, not about simply perfecting the old tried and true."

Me? I'm all about perfecting the old tried and true, so I keep the condiments simple and let the beef shine through.

Bottomings

A note to vegans

This article is NOT about the merits about eating meat. If you would like to debate that, Huffington Post has a lively ongoing discussion on the subject, just click here. Moderators will delete all comments on the subject from this article and flag you as abusive under these terms of Huffington Post policy:
(1) Your comments are off-topic
(2) They are intended to provoke.
Most folks put their sauces on top of the patty, but I disagree with this strategy. I put the liquid stuff on the bottom so it can soak into the bun, coat the meat, mix with the juices that drip down, and anchor the patty in place, especially since you only have your thumbs to hold the bottom bun. Some folks like to put lettuce on the bottom to act as a barrier between the burger juices and the bun in an attempt to keep the bottom bun dry. But I disagree with this strategy. With lettuce on the bottom, the patty slides around too much and two thumbs are not enough to control it.


Here are some bottomings you might want to try either solo or in a blend: Ketchup, mustard, mayo, steak sauce, barbecue sauce, thousand island dressing, salsa, remoulade sauce, balsamic vinegar reduction, aioli, chimichurri sauce, tonkatsu sauce, mayo with a few drops of sesame oil mixed in, hot sauce in sour cream, smashed avocado or guacamole, horseradish -- straight or with sour cream, pickle relish, roasted garlic, minced jalapeno, or giardiniera.

What we like on our burgers

According to a survey by the Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association (HPBA), when it comes to hamburgers and other grilled meat or vegetable sandwiches, in the battle of the bottles, adult Americans report they use ketchup most often (66% of respondents), with mustard (62%) close behind. "Cheese, please!" say 66%, while 74% add lettuce, onion and/or tomato. Women lean towards the veggies more than men (80% vs. 68%), and 70% say they prefer a traditional bun to complete their grilled sandwiches.

According to a survey of 1,000 adults 18 years of age or older in the contiguous US conducted in April 2007 by Synovate/eNation on behalf of Johnny Rockets, a hamburger chain, ketchup rules the condiments and is the most preferred topping (63%), followed by mustard (50%) and mayonnaise (42%). Other popular toppings include lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickles. Fewer than 2% said that they prefer their hamburgers plain.

A note about safety and proper cooking of burgers

Undercooked ground meat and sausage can kill. It can happen to you or a loved one. It is primarily a problem in ground meats, not steaks. I urge you to click this link to read more about dangerous pathogens in burgers and other ground meats and how to prevent food-borne illness.

Many restaurants have their own "Secret Sauce". The simplest is "Fry Sauce", which was created for French fries and uses a blend of 2 parts mayo (the dip of choice in Europe), and 1 part ketchup (dip of choice in the US). A typical, and more complex sauce, is a blend of ketchup, mayo, mustard, and perhaps sweet-sour pickle relish. In the Pacific Northwest there is a popular sauce called "Goop" made with mayo, mustard, sour cream, and pickle relish. Here's my favorite Hamburger Sauce, which I call "Glop". I've been known to use it on both burgers and fries. It's got a mild kick.

Recipe: Meathead's Glop

Makes. 1 cup or enough for about 20 burgers. It will keep in the fridge for months.

Preparation time. 5 minutes if you take a nap during the process.

Ingredients
7 tablespoons mayonnaise
5 tablespoons Kansas City Style Barbecue Sauce or ketchup
3 tablespoons yellow mustard
1 tablespoon Tabasco Chipotle
1/4 teaspoon table salt
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

Do this
1) Mix everything together in a bowl.

2) Take the day off.

Obviously nothing is set in concrete about this recipe. You can vary the ingredients to your taste or doctor them with other ingredients. But start with this and then add what you like. Write it down, and do it again. Just don't make it so hot you can't taste the beef.

Toppings

On top of the patty is where I put this big slippery stuff because you have eight fingers to manage the top. The Build A Better Burger Contest is all about the condiments. Some of these concotions sound wonderful, but they are just too fussy for me and hide the meat. I'm fine with lettuce, tomato, and onion. Period. OK, maybe two strips of thick bacon. I'm not even a big fan of cheeseburgers.

2010-08-05-johnny_rockets2.jpg

Lettuce. I want crisp, cold lettuce that crunches and squirts cold water on top of the hot meat juices. This is the perfect use for iceberg or Romaine lettuce. Especially the thick bottom parts.

Tomatoes. As for the tomatoes, try to find big beefsteak style tomatoes the same diameter as the patty. When you use small slices, they move around too much and usually fall out. Always use ripe tomatoes, no underripe pink rocks. They're too acidic. Nowadays you can often find real ripe tomatoes all year 'round that are grown in greenhouses. Campari tomatoes are grown in a greenhouse, usually grown hydroponically (in nutrient solutions and inert media like gravel, no dirt), about the size of golf balls and almost always delicious, perfectly ripe, and juicy. Interestingly, many come from Toronto. Plum tomatoes are less juicy if you want more substance. If I can't find ripe tomatoes, I live without them.

Onions. As with the tomatoes, I like a single thin slice of raw onion the same diameter as the patty. In season, I go for a slice of sweet onion like Vidalia (May through July) or Walla Walla (June through August). If they are not in season, it's red onion for me. Sometimes I put the onion on top of the burger while it's on the grill to take the edge off and make it less slippery. If you're making a cheeseburger, you can anchor the onion in place by putting the cheese on top. Just don't slice the onions long in advance. Onion slices or chopped onion can get really stanky when it sits around for an hour or more. They taste best when freshly sliced.

Many people prefer grilled, griddled, or caramelized onions. I have a soft spot for these, but they're slippery, and thery're a bit sweet for me for regular burgers, although I love them on cheeseburgers. A lot of pubs like to top burgers with breaded fried onion rings. I've even enjoyed burgers with those crunchy fried onions from the can, and I've seen menus with pickled onions.

Cheese. Put cheese on it and you've made a cheeseburger. The choice of cheese opens a whole realm of possibilities, so click the link for some. In parts of the Southeast, pimento cheese spread supplants both the melted cheese of the cheeseburger and the need for ketchup or other sauces. More on that soon.

Bacon. What doesn't go well with bacon? Add bacon and you get smokiness, sweetness, and saltiness. A remarkable variation on the theme is, are you sitting, pastrami as served at Hymie's in Merion Station, PA.

Stylin'. If you agree with McNair and want to do some stylin', try: Pickle slices, pickle relish, grilled tomato, roasted red peppers, sauteed mushrooms, thinly sliced pears or apples, potato chips, or slaw. Or go to his website, which has some amazingly creative creations.

In Chicago, the spectacular Kuma Burger at Kuma's Corner has a sunny side egg on top to complete the steak and eggs combo.

In LA it is not hard to find crumbled spicy Mexican style chorizo sausage on top, a sort of South of the Border chiliburger.

Then there's the pizza burger topped with tomato sauce and melted mozzarella cheese. Or the Carolina Pimento Cheeseburger, New Mexico Green Chile Cheeseburger, Beanburger, or one of the other regional styles. How about a "Guberburger," topped with peanut butter and served at The Wheel Inn Drive-In in Sedalia, MO. Or the "Nutburger" at Matt's in Butte, MT, which has a blanket of chopped salted peanuts mixed with Miracle Whip. How far would you drive for one of those?

Need more ideas? The fun website cheese-burger.net has some tasty combos.

Meathead's favorite combos

Big Fat Steakhouse Steakburger (Click the link for tips on making them). Bottomings: 1 tablespoon Meathead's Glop (above). Toppings: 1/4" slice raw sweet onion (Vidalia, Walla Walla), 1 leaf crunchy iceberg or Romaine lettuce, 1/4" slice wide tomato (only if ripe otherwise skip it).


Cheeseburger (Click the link for tips on making them). Bottomings: 1 tablespoon Meathead's Glop. Toppings: 1/8" slice of cheddar, 2 thick slices of bacon, griddled or caramelized onions.

Did I miss something? Let me know what you like on your burgers.

All text and photos are Copyright (c) 2010 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved

For more of Meathead's writing, photos, and recipes, please visit his website AmazingRibs.com

Friend Meathead on Facebook

 

Follow Meathead Goldwyn on Twitter: www.twitter.com/ribguy

Read more reports from Meathead's grill deck at AmazingRibs.com "They were very, very hungry. They wanted to live in a land that treated them as equals, a land filled with hamburger...
Read more reports from Meathead's grill deck at AmazingRibs.com "They were very, very hungry. They wanted to live in a land that treated them as equals, a land filled with hamburger...
 
 
  • Comments
  • 98
  • Pending Comments
  • 0
  • View FAQ
Comments are closed for this entry
View All
Favorites
Recency  | 
Popularity
Page: 1 2 3  Next ›  Last »  (3 total)
02:33 PM on 08/27/2010
I'm not a big fan of the tomato or the onion UNDERNEATH the cheese - it usually just slides off the meat for me. Plus - the cheese more easily melts (depending on preparation method) when directly on the meat. If it gets gooey enough on top - that's all the better for holding tomatoes / lettuce / beet (!) / onions.
09:35 AM on 08/27/2010
Those burgers look crazy delicious but in my opinion they need some popchips! Potato Chips at only 120 calories. Check out http://popchipspotatochips.com for more information.
12:17 PM on 08/11/2010
I can't believe I am just reading this article. One thing I haven't seen mentioned is an olive burger. Its a regular cheeseburger with the regular condiments (lettuce, tomato, onion) with a nice little twist. You make an a chopped olive spread to put on it in place of the ketchup or mayo. The sauce is easy to make. Get green cocktail olives, chop them up, and mix with salad dressing (or mayo if salad dressing is too sweet for you). It is terrific every now and then.
photo
HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
tacevad
American SS Card Carrying Socialist
11:21 AM on 08/11/2010
to me the best burgers start with higher fat content ground meat, for variety from my usual ketchup mayo & onion (plus salt and pepper) I try various salad dressings thousand island for that "Big Boy" taste, ranch or honey mustard and of course bleu cheese are all options as well. Grilled buns are also important in my opinion
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Eric Mann
Do you want to be on the opposite side of Progress
02:59 PM on 08/08/2010
I am sorry to say that do not see any regional (Detroit) style of hamburger. We've got our good slider places, (ok, they are anchored by one in Ann Arbor, but that's close enough), our "high endy" burger places, etc...but who doesn't? Most more expensive hamburger places just give you lots of options, especially with cheeses-offering smoked Gouda, Brie, 3-year-old cheddar, etc...With condiments that pair well with those cheeses-horseradish, good honey-mustard, etc...

Can "build your own burger" count as a regional style? Probably not.

I do think offering more than just yellow mustard and ketchup for condiments is paramount, especially if you offer lots of cheeses. That connection is key. Who the heck wants sweet relish and brie? Ok, that might actually not be bad, but you get my point.
photo
HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
10:17 PM on 08/09/2010
There is a Detroit style Hotdog (called a Coney there) but not a Detroit style hamburger.
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Eric Mann
Do you want to be on the opposite side of Progress
10:54 AM on 08/10/2010
The Coney Dog was probably the first solid food I ever ate. I even took a trip to Toledo for a famous Tony Packo's...it was ok, and I'd eat one at a Mudhen's game, but gimme some Lafayette any day.
We even do have a distinctive pizza that is overlooked: A thick fluffy crust (rectangular shaped) with the sauce on top of the cheese and toppings. Shield's and Buddy's have both perfected this. Frankly, I don't personally like it, but my wife does. I am the child of a New York transplant, so my hear lies in a thin crusted big wide slice.
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Wendy Johnson
10:27 AM on 08/08/2010
These days my burger consumption is mostly vicarious. There's just way more sat-fat, sodium, and plain old calories, packed into one hamburger, than I like getting from something that's probably just going to leave me wanting another one. That being said, this is one delicious article. Love the descriptions, love the pictures, love the sense-memories it all conjures.

If you ask me, a good hamburger is all about the meat. You get ground beef from a source you can trust, and you sear it at a high heat so it gets a nice dark crust on the outside before it has time to dry out inside. Keep the toppings to a minimum, a little sprinkle of salt, just a little mayo and maybe some Tabasco on the top bun for moisture (the meat juices will moisten the bottom bun), maybe a ring or two of onion. That's all you need.

That being said, a veggie burger can also be a tasty treat, and you can really pile the condiments on those, because there's no good meat-taste to be lost.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
ErinMae
01:58 AM on 08/08/2010
You have to sprinkle any tomato you use (or avacado for that matter) with a bit of salt. Even the best tomato sings with a pinch of kosher or sea salt. Also, I recently became a convert to the butter toasted bun. It's heavenly - and what the hell. You're already risking your health so just go for it.
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Wendy Johnson
10:30 AM on 08/08/2010
You are so right, ErinMae. An avocado is nothing without a bit of salt. Tomatoes? If you ask me, the only good ones are vine-ripened. There is no such thing as enough seasonings to inject more than a hint of taste into the crispy pink things they sell in the grocery stores :P
04:20 PM on 08/07/2010
I like a bun, a burger and a slice of cheese; I'm not fussy.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
BannedNBoston
Is hemp legal yet?
04:19 PM on 08/07/2010
Heres the Monsanto rBHG man with mandatory food safety rules!!!!

http://www.rense.com/general91/dehe.htm
photo
HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
08:21 PM on 08/07/2010
I don't think this has anything to do with hamburger condiments. That said, I have read the bill and the page you link to is hysterical overstatement.
photo
HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
09:30 PM on 08/07/2010
I forgot. Here is a summary of the bill. I don't think it does any of the things you fear. It is designed to make our food supplies safer. Restaurants are exempt, and as I read it, so are farm stands. My guess is Monsanto is none to thrilled with it.
03:54 PM on 08/07/2010
Here in a small area of upstate NY , central Mohawk Valley , we have something called a "mexican" ...it's a burger with what's locally called chili sauce. There's nothing mexican about it and the sauce has no chili power . But they are fantastic ! The sauce is hot and sweet ... mostly tomato onion , green and red pepper and just a hint of cinnamon . ... sort of new england style salsa . Pace picante sauce on a burger is close , and more mexican flavor . BTW if you get a McRatburer with no toppings and add the picante sauce it actually becomes half way decent .
photo
HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
08:22 PM on 08/07/2010
I am tracking regional burger styles. Please tell me more. Is it served at more than one or two restaurants?
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
01:20 PM on 08/07/2010
If there's any single mistake which best reveals the problems with American food habits, (foodies mos-def included), it's: "mayo (the dip of choice in Europe)". This is a Belgian habit and not one practiced by most Belgians at that. No one in France does this except if they try to copy tourists. The whole idea is silly. Mayonnaise is not used on hot foods because it dissolves, it's not used on fried foods, because it's too greasy. And it's never used with mustard, or with cheese at all. Mayonnaise with mustard is the clearest sign imaginable that one doesn't understand how flavor functions. Of course many may 'like' it, but that's got nothing to do with taste.
As for Mayonnaise with cheese, that's what we get from learning to cook from Ronald McDonald.
It's very hard for many people to accept that there are rules to flavor just as there are rules to driving and to building bridges. But there are, and they're no more arbitrary than bricks and mortar.
photo
HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
08:29 PM on 08/07/2010
OK, you've stepped into dangerous territory with "many may 'like' it, but that's got nothing to do with taste." You are into the difficult field of aesthetics. There are PhDs who spend every day debating this sort of thing.

There is what experts like and what non-experts like. Sometimes they cross paths and sometimes not. For many years Norman Rockwell was dismissed by the "serious" art world as a sentimental commercial illustrator. In recent years he has been "discovered" to be a talented realist American folk storyteller.

I submit that what many people like is worthy of note whether or not snobs approve. Mixing mayo with mustard, or chipotle, or sesame oil, or horseradish, or herbs, or spices is a great idea.

I'm guessing you are a first year culinary student and you have a LOT to learn. My motto is: No rules in the dining room or bedroom.
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
12:55 AM on 08/08/2010
Hello,

It’s been twenty years since I was a first year student at anything, but thanks anyway, you made me feel young again!

My comment had nothing to do with aesthetics, it was about biology and the science of taste. I understand the appeal of the ‘anything goes’ philosophy, most of it can’t go soon enough. Mix Mayonnaise with anything you like, but never try to say that there are no rules, in the kitchen or in the bedroom. Do we sleep with our siblings, our mothers? Should we have unprotected sex with strangers? Does the name Rodell Vereen mean anything to you? Of course there are rules. Sex is a form of dialogue between two creatures; eating, nourishment, is a dialogue between a your palate, your body, and nature. Surely you realize what that means and what it implies, don’t you?

The result of this so called freedom of choice is on view between the belts and the bones of two thirds of Americans. (Your bio picture would indicate you are a member of that majority.)

The structure of taste and the philosophy of nourishment is a field which straddles both aesthetics and science, and, given your obvious intelligence and prodigious resume, I would very much like to count you among those who understand the importance of these ideas. But, of course, you do have freedom of choice.

As Dorothy Parker said, ‘You can lead a whore to culture, but you can’t make her think’.

All the best.
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
12:56 AM on 08/08/2010
Incidentally, (re: a quote on your website), I don’t want to embarrass you but the name W.S. Gilbert is familiar to many people. Perhaps it is to you as well?
photo
HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
progressivegreg
Scotty, beam me up
08:38 AM on 08/07/2010
Some years ago here in Grand Rapids, we had a cool little "dive bar" located in a (at the time) kinda run down hotel called the Pantlind Hotel. The hotel is now very upscale and redone, but in it's day had the "Back Room Saloon" featuring beer on draft, free peanuts in the shell (just toss the shells on the floor) great Dixieland jazz on Friday nights, sing alongs on Saturdays nights and the Best Basic hamburger I can remember. It was a large grilled sirloin patty on home made onion buns, topped with a thick slice of what we used to call "Bermuda Onion" The Only condiments, were horseradish and/or ketchup. No fries, no potato chips, just the great burger and big stein of beer. It was heaven in a stein and on a bun!
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
conscioushope
"There is no darkness but ignorance." Shakespeare
08:44 PM on 08/06/2010
huffpo~

We need a "Food Section" !!!!
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
conscioushope
"There is no darkness but ignorance." Shakespeare
08:51 PM on 08/06/2010
oops......

I'm a little slow today.....just saw that there is one.....

I may have to unfan myself.....
;/
photo
HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
11:12 PM on 08/06/2010
Been here since April...
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
conscioushope
"There is no darkness but ignorance." Shakespeare
11:45 PM on 08/06/2010
Craig~

Mea culpa!!

I realized what a silly comment after I posted.....Now, I've found it, although I'm a little slow-cooked! Thanks for your great article.....I'll be back by now that I'm with the program!!
photo
mlaiuppa
Pres. Sarcasm Society. Like we need your approval.
02:46 PM on 08/06/2010
I avoid the sliding issue by making sure my hamburger bun is toasted.

Then goes your condiment. I'm a simplest so I prefer just a dollop of natural ketchup. I'm going to be experimenting with making my own ketchup this summer as soon as all of the tomatoes ripen. I'll be canning the tomatoes so I can sacrifice a few to my ketchup experiments.

Now even though the bun is nicely toasted, the ketchup will still soak in a bit and anchor the patty. But the bun will NOT get soggy. I had a bun that gets so soggy before I'm done eating that the bun breaks down and I end up holding meat in my hand. That's what the bun is for.

Next comes the patty. I prefer a nice melted american cheese on mine. To me, meat is a combination of salt and sweet (with a bit of fat) and the cheese, although having all three of those tastes as well, emphasizes the sweet.

Next comes the tomato. If the cheese is melted correctly, the tomato will sink in a bit and not slide so much.

Then comes the lettuce. If you do it right there won't b so much that you can't get it in your mouth or it slides too much, although you really can't avoid the slide.

Along with the taste, I also like the different temperatures in my mouth; the warm of the burger and the cool of the lettuce/tomatoes.
photo
HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
11:14 PM on 08/06/2010
Bun must be toasted! Buttered too!
http://amazingribs.com/recipes/hamburgers/zen_of_hamburger_buns.html
photo
mlaiuppa
Pres. Sarcasm Society. Like we need your approval.
04:30 AM on 08/07/2010
If you want to add that garlic to your buttered bun, try this:

Soften butter to room temperature, then add some Inglehoffer's minced garlic gloves and mix, Then spread thinly on your bun and put under the broiler. Watch it as once they start to toast, they go real fast. If you can't get Inglehoffer's you can try making your own by roasting an entire head of garlic, then peeling the cloves and mincing them into a paste in a food processor. I just buy a jar of the stuff.

You'll need to experiment with the ratio of butter to minced garlic to your taste.

Oh, and if you ever do anything with turkey in a sandwich type application, try Inglehoffer's cranberry mustard.
photo
Aardvaark
I'm a Swedish American, son of China Missionaries
05:55 PM on 08/10/2010
Must be buttered? O.K., I like Culver's Butterburgers O.K., but I find that the amount of condiments that I add don't require it because there's so much liquid.

I also like to add sweet relish. I'm a philistine.
02:02 PM on 08/06/2010
I read somewhere that in Australia they put a slice of pickled beet on their burgers. I need to try it someday.
photo
HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
11:14 PM on 08/06/2010
Yes, I've read that too.
12:11 PM on 08/09/2010
They do, and it's really yummy! It functionally replaces the tomato.