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Craig "Meathead" Goldwyn

Craig "Meathead" Goldwyn

Posted: March 24, 2010 05:43 PM

Charoses: Delicious Passover Applesauce Is Even Great with Pork!

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Charoses (a.k.a. charoset, haroset, haroseth) is a traditional Jewish dish served during the spring feast of Passover. It is one of the world's great applesauces, a fine accompaniment to the traditional Passover lamb or brisket, and, Heaven forgive me, it's a great accompaniment to pork chops. It is, like bagels, one of the greatest gifts of the Jewish culinary canon, and it is too tasty to be served only once a year, and then only to Jews.

The original recipe for Charoses was created thousands of years ago as an integral part, I think the best part, of the Passover Seder. The Seder is a ritual evening meal Jews eat in large family groups to celebrate the Old Testament story of Exodus, the liberation of their ancestors from the Egyptians by Moses, the 40 years of wandering in the dessert, and presentation of the 10 Commandments. The meal contains several required dishes meant to symbolize the events in the biblical story:

2010-03-24-charoses.jpgCharoses, the applesauce, represents the mortar and bricks the slaves used to build Egyptian homes and monuments. It comes from the Hebrew word cheres, which means clay.

Matzo, a cracker that is similar to the unleavened bread Jews ate as they ran from Egypt in the dessert.

Karpas, a green vegetable such as parsley, symbolic of spring, that is dipped in salt water representing tears.

Z'roa, a bone, usually a lamb shank, to remind them of the lamb that was sacrificed and its blood swabbed on the doorways of Jews so the angel of death would pass over (hence, Passover).

Maror, horseradish to remind them of the bitterness of slavery.

Beitzah, a roasted egg which symbolizes, depending on the rabbi you ask, either mourning, or the rebirth of the Jewish people, or the loss of the Temple of Jerusalem, which is a lot of responsibility for one egg.

Kiddush, four glasses of wine are blessed as symbols of blood.

There are numerous recipes for charoses depending on which part of the diaspora your bubbe's (grandmother's) family came from, and not surprisingly, learned rabbis argue about every detail: What must be in it, what must not be in it, how to make it, and how it is to be served. I fully expect complaints that, in my charoses recipe, I have not chopped the apples fine enough to make it look like mortar. Oy!

2010-03-24-sliced_brisket.jpg
The main course of the dinner is often brisket, a cheap, tough cut of beef that some peasants could afford for holidays. Most Jews braise it in liquid, but in the Texas, smoke-roasted barbecue beef brisket is the choice of goys (non-Jews) year round. No reason it can't be used for Passover now that barbecue season has begun. Click here for my recipe for Texas-style smoke-roasted brisket.

2010-03-24-latkes.jpgAnother common Seder dish is potato pancakes, called latkes, and they also go great with barbecue. Click here for my recipe for the world's most perfect potato latkes.

Charoses tastes just fine as soon as you make it, but it improves with a day or two of age as the apples and raisins absorb the wine and spice flavors. It is traditionally served on matzo (I'm partial to Streit's Lightly Salted Matzo). If you're not Jewish and you can't find matzo, Carr's Table Water Crackers are very similar and widely available.

The Priest and the Rabbi confess

Although charoses and latkes are great with ribs, pork is forbidden in the homes of observant Jews because it violates their Kosher dietary laws. But that doesn't mean all kosher Jews have never tasted ribs...

So the rabbi gets on the airplane and is pleasantly surprised to find he is seated next to a Catholic priest. He introduces himself, and they begin a conversation. After a while the priest turns to the rabbi, lowers his voice, and says "Tell me rabbi, I don't know much about your religion. Is it true you are not allowed to eat pork?"

The rabbi chuckles and says that, yes, it is true, he is not allowed to eat pork. He explains the laws of kosher.

The priest is both puzzled and amused. He leans toward the rabbi and asks "Have you really gone your whole life without pork? Have you never tried it once, just out of curiosity?"

The rabbi is silent for a moment and then whispers "Well, yes, I did try ribs once, just out of curiosity."

"Did you like it?"

"Oh, my, yes, I had ribs on a business trip to Memphis at Corky's. They were wonderful! Did you know the owners of Corky's are Jewish? I wish I could eat their pork all the time! Now you tell me Father, is it true that you are not allowed to have sex?"

"Yes, it is true. I am married to the church."

"Tell me honestly Father. Have you never tried it, just once, just out of curiosity?"

The priest is silent for a moment, and realizing that his god already knew the truth, he whispered to his new friend "I must confess, I have had sex, but only once, with a nun."

There was an awkward silence for a few moments, and finally the rabbi looks the priest in the eyes and quietly asks "Did you like it?"

"Not as much as ribs" was the reply.

Here's my version, inspired by a recipe from my friend Sharon Eisenberg's friend's grandmother-in-law. Really.

Charoses Recipe

Serves. 8
Preparation time. 20 minutes

Ingredients
1/2 cup raisins
1 cup walnuts, chopped into pieces smaller than a pea
1/4 teaspoon powdered ginger
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
2 tablespoons honey
1/3 cup red wine
1 pinch of salt
3 large apples

About the apples. Go for crisp, tart, crunchy apples like Braeburn, Fuji, Gala, Granny Smith, or Sweet Delicious.

About the wine. In the US it is traditional to use sweet Concord wine. I prefer Manischewitz to Mogen David. If you can't bring yourself to buy sweet Concord wine, I recommend a young grapey Beaujolais and double the honey. If you wish, you can even subsititute non-alcoholic grape juice. Interestingly, if you tell American Jews that the Concord is native to North American and it is never used in Israel or Europe, they are shocked and will usually not believe you.

Optional mix-ins. There are slight differences in the charoses around the world where the locals take advantage of local ingredients. Some recipes use chopped pitted dates, chopped dried apricots, chopped almonds, pine nuts, orange zest, hazel nuts, and lemon juice.

Do this
1) Put the raisins, walnuts, ginger, cin, honey, salt, and wine in a mixing bowl and mix.

2) Peel the apple. Cut it in quarters and remove the core and stems. Chop into bits about the size of a pea and mix them in. To make it more of a paste, you can chop the apples in a food processor, just be careful not to turn them into mush. Add salt to suit your taste. If possible, age for a few hours or overnight. Serve on matzoh or as a side dish.

L'chiam! To life!

------------------

All text and photos are Copyright (c) 2010 By Craig "Meathead" Goldwyn, and all rights are reserved. For more of his writing and recipes, please visit AmazingRibs.com.

 

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03:19 PM on 03/30/2010
Thanks for the recipe--I tried it out last night and it tasted great (not for a seder--I'm not Jewish--but I felt like doing something for Passover anyway).
11:00 PM on 03/28/2010
I used these recipes today to make charoses and latkes for dinner and basketball with friends (go Green!)... with two minor changes. I substitued a local cherry wine for Concord wine and added a dollop of ricotta to the latkes. Muy delicioso!
10:26 PM on 03/26/2010
Apple sauce is a crime against nature. Serving sweets as a garnish for meat also is a crime against nature.
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
08:49 AM on 03/27/2010
Ah! Finally! We hear from a Rabbi!
10:58 AM on 03/27/2010
Wrong, again. I'm a phantasm. Now, wipe the apple sauce out of your beard. Apple sauce doesn't go with the dried, greasy, egg on your face. BTW, do you also eat the dried apple garnish with grilled pork chops?
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GrownupStewie
06:20 AM on 03/26/2010
its so funny you mentioned liking pork chops, every jewish person I know loves pork chops and bacon....I even love spiralled ham...its so funny that my favorite meat is pig....

Jews only banned pig those thousands of years ago because of a virus/disease that the pigs were carrying and had spread to humans because of their very unsanitary conditions, so they banned pork from being eaten. All the countries around them that still ate pork were still getting sick. It was actually very smart for the time, the jews have a long history of banning stuff that can literally kill them. But Pigs today are so stuffed with antibiotics and they arent (well they shouldnt be) kept in as unsanitary conditions that they once were, that they are pretty safe to eat.......and so so delicious....

I mean im sure I can become a vegan if I really thought about the animal slaughtering industry, but I turn my head because it just tastes soooo good. I had a plate of cut up apples and slices of gouda cheese tonight, it was yummy and refreshing, but i was still hungry so I made a turkey sandwhich with cranberry sauce with 3 slices of almost burnt bacon (bacon shouldnt always be almost burnt, I decided), and it was like heaven.

Im thinking of serving up some ham for passover, not only will it be hilarious, im sure it will be devoured.
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MadMoll
01:25 AM on 03/26/2010
You should try haroset that is made of dates -
http://recipeland.com/recipe/v/Sephardic-Style-Date-Haroset-13856
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11:00 PM on 03/25/2010
Would any of you folks know the name of the dish that's like an apple cobbler made with apples and potatoes? I attended a holiday with a jewish friend. His aunt made this dish, and for years I've been trying to find it.
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
07:54 AM on 03/27/2010
This sounds like it could have been a riff on kugel. Anybody got a recipe?
08:32 PM on 03/25/2010
By coincidence, Im having a pork chop while reading this. I wish religions wouldn't indoctrinate their young so early. They should at least let them try out what they might be missing. Maybe say, "I wanna propose this religion to you, but first try this pork chop -- or lobster -- or glass of wine" (in the case of Mormons)... Maybe do what the Amish do -- let their folks sow their oats first. I think I know why they don't -- a lot of people would prefer the pork chop.
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PrimusElijah
Serial; semi-colon abuser
04:01 PM on 03/25/2010
Thanks, Meathead! I'm not sure how this rib-addict missed you all these years, but I'm glad to make your acquaintance. This BBQ season is already shaping up to be a good one. You've got some good recipes and great idea. I like your artwork, too!
03:09 PM on 03/25/2010
I didn't know potato pancakes were a Passover dish. We eat them on Hanukah. And the reason they are a traditional Jewish dish is because, like the brisket, that's all the poor peasants in the Jewish shtetls of Eastern Europe could affort to eat.
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
03:17 PM on 03/25/2010
Yes, latkes are more closely associated with Channukah, but it is my undeerstanding that they are also popular at Pesach. Readers: Do you eat latkes at Passover?
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
robiform
if you're commenting, you DO care!
08:59 AM on 03/26/2010
Hi Craig--yes, I've been to Seders where potato pancakes were served, primarily as an alternative to potato kugel! Latkes are a Hanukkah tradition, but there's no reason not to have them at Passover!

True story--this week, I was placing my order for our family's second Seder at the local deli, and when I got to the charoses part of the order, the woman who was taking my order smiled and said, "That's my favorite food for Passover!" Nothing unusual about that, except she has a rich Jamaican accent and had been telling a co-worker before taking my order about the great church supper the previous evening!! As my bubbe would have said, "Zein America"!

Happy Pesach!
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rubygreen
05:05 PM on 03/26/2010
Yes! And any other time I'm in the mood to make them.
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Ira7
02:21 PM on 03/25/2010
Coming from an Eastern European Jewish heritage, trust me--don't try these recipes at home.

There's a reason you see Chinese and Italian restaurants on every other block, but you'll be hard-pressed to find any restaurants that sell charoses.

The ingredients look fine, but I'm telling you, when it all gets put together, EEEECCCHHH!!!!!!
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
03:18 PM on 03/25/2010
Ira, nothing could be simpler than Charoses! Mothers have been doing it for generations! Even a goy can do it!
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
03:20 PM on 03/25/2010
On further thought, I should say that the latkes are a little tricky, and Texas-style brisket is an art. But charoses? Easy!
01:09 PM on 03/25/2010
I can't wait until they ban food that tastes good because it's bad for you.
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propitiousmoment
the journey is the destination....
12:40 PM on 03/25/2010
My dad was jewish, my mother was not, and he converted when he married her, but they tried to make us aware of our jewish heritage mainly through children's books like Hillel's Happy Holidays. We did not live around any extended family, so we relied on the recipes my mother learned from her mother in law, of which potato latkes are high on my list of favorites. I had never heard of this recipe, though, I always thought they just dipped apple slices in honey. This looks awesome, I will definitely try it and many of the variations :)
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12:10 PM on 03/25/2010
oh, heck, who cares about a little charred meat now and then? these recipes look absolutely scrumptious - good thing the snow melted and my grill is back in working order!
11:31 AM on 03/25/2010
After giving you are hard time before about your charred meats, let me say that the brisket idea looks delicious. Thanks! I'm splurging this weekend and eating outside my routine. Yummy!
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JScott
John Galt's last name is McGuffin-Smithee
11:08 AM on 03/25/2010
How did potato latkes become a dish anyway. Certainly not from biblical times, since potatos
are from Mesoamerica and didn't arrive to E. Europe till after Columbus explored Mesoamerica.
03:07 PM on 03/25/2010
Actually, latkes is a dish of Hanukkah when everything should be fried in oil in remembrance of the oil lasting eight days.
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
03:21 PM on 03/25/2010
For the story of latkes, its origin, and a fine recipe, click heree:

http://amazingribs.com/recipes/potatoes/potato_pancakes_latkes.html