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Crispy Cornell Chicken: An Upstate New York Classic

Posted: 10/21/10 01:50 PM ET

Read more reports from Meathead's kitchen and grill deck at AmazingRibs.com

If you like grilled chicken with golden crispy skin, say "thank you, to Bob Baker."

Baker was a professor of food science at Cornell University and I once had the honor of meeting him when my wife was a microbiology PhD candidate at Cornell and I taught part time there. A specialist in poultry, he helped invent such oddities as chicken nuggets, turkey ham, and poultry hot dogs. But in picturesque Ithaca, NY, where Cornell is located, about six hours from Manhattan, he is best remembered for Cornell Chicken, and there is nothing odd or artificial about his recipe. In fact, the recipe has become so popular it is served all across Western New York.

I lived in Ithaca for 18 years and fell in love with this recipe in a hurry. Every fund-raiser, every fire department cookout, every little league barbecue, must serve this recipe or nobody would come. Even though Baker died in 2006, his family continues to operate Baker's Chicken Shack at the New York State Fair in Syracuse.

2010-10-21-cornell_chicken.jpgCornell Chicken is often served with Syracuse Salt Potatoes, small white local potatoes boiled in salty water. The area is also a major cabbage producer, so my recipe for Waldorf Slaw is another natural NY themed side. Wash it all down with a white wine from the Finger Lakes. Riesling is the strong suit there. End the feast with Concord Grape Pie a unique invention from nearby Canandaigua Lake topped with a scoop of ice cream from Cornell's Ag School's Dairy Bar where they students are taught to make it properly. I'll have the world's best butter pecan, please.

Bob Baker's Cornell Chicken Recipe

Makes. 16 chicken quarters
Preparation time. 20 minutes
Cooking time. About 1 hour

Ingredients
1 egg
1 cup vegetable oil
2 cups cider vinegar
1 tablespoon table salt
1 tablespoon poultry seasoning (click for recipe)
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
4 broiler chickens cut into quarters

About quartering the bird. The original recipe calls for cutting the birds in half, but I think it is better to quarter them since the breast and thighs cook at different rates, with the breasts being thicker, but less forgiving. You can overcook thighs and drums a bit and still have moist meat, but not breasts.

About the sauce. It is very close to a mayonnaise, so you can store the sauce in the fridge for a couple of weeks, even though there is raw egg, because the vinegar, salt, and cold will prevent salmonella from multiplying. Cooking, of course makes it perfectly safe. You can cut the recipe in half by discarding half the egg after whisking it.

About the salt. I found Dr. Baker's original recipe just a bit salty at 3 tablespoons, so I cut it back to 1 tablespoon.

Do this
1) In a large bowl, whisk the egg white and yolk together with a balloon whisk or a hand mixer. Add the oil and whisk until it gets thick, homogenous, and a bright yellow, for about 2 minutes. A balloon whisk is the best tool for this job since the wire strands really do a good job or emulsifying (mixing together) the two ingredients, one oil based, the other water. Now whisk in the vinegar, salt, seasoning, and pepper.

2) Stab the chicken skin several times with a fork or knife so the marinade can get in and so fat can get out when cooking. This will help make the skin crispy. Marinate the chicken for 3 to 24 hours in zipper bags. You can do this in a bowl or pan, but you need more marinade than if you use zipper bags. Every hour or so, turn the meat a bit so all surfaces get well coated.

3) Set up the grill for 2-zone indirect cooking. This is an important technique. Click the link if you are not familiar with 2-zone grilling. Place the chicken over the indirect zone and close the lid. Every 5-10 minutes baste, turn the chickens on both sides, and move the ones closer to the heat away and the ones away closer.

4) Cooking about 30 to 45 minutes until the internal temperature of each part is 150F and stop basting. Then move them over the hot direct heat side of the grill, skin side down, and crisp the skin without burning it for 10-15 minutes. Flip and heat for about 5 minutes more. This step is important to finish cooking, crisp the skins, and make sure the meat is sterile since raw egg can contain salmonella. When the skin is crisp and the joint temp is at least 165F, take the meat off. For the dark meat stick the probe of a good instant read thermometer in the joint between the drumstick and thigh. That's the place that takes longest to cook. Even if it is a bit red in there when you cut in, it is safe at 165F according to USDA. I strongly recommend you use one of the fine new digital thermocouple thermometers available nowadays to make sure your poultry and other foods are cooked properly for taste and safety.

All text and photos are Copyright (c) 2010 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved

For more of Meathead's writing, photos, and recipes, please visit his website AmazingRibs.com

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Read more reports from Meathead's kitchen and grill deck at AmazingRibs.com If you like grilled chicken with golden crispy skin, say "thank you, to Bob Baker." Baker was a professor of food science ...
Read more reports from Meathead's kitchen and grill deck at AmazingRibs.com If you like grilled chicken with golden crispy skin, say "thank you, to Bob Baker." Baker was a professor of food science ...
 
 
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08:08 PM on 10/30/2010
Because of this post, I cooked this chicken tonight. I followed Mr. Meathead's instructions explicitly and was blown away by how good this chicken is. When I pulled it off the grill, I thought it smelled great but not really any different than a good rotisserie chicken or other grilled chicken I've had.

The tasting bore out the reputation, though. It's like chicken that was raised eating nothing but bacon. Just heavenly. Once again Meathead Goldwyn has led me down a righteous path. Keep the recipes coming and thank you, thank you, a thousand times thank you.
06:04 PM on 10/29/2010
Hmmm. Chiavetta's chicken without the preservatives.

How nice.
12:32 PM on 10/27/2010
As a Syracuse native, I love this chicken! It is absolutely amazing and definitely deserves the praise. Thanks for sharing :-)
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Casa-Giardino
10:00 AM on 10/26/2010
I grill my chicken in the broiler with skin almost charred. Then I bring to boil 1/2 glass of white wine, juice of half lemon and 1/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil. Simmer for few minutes to reduce the wine and pour over chicken. Charred but moist.
casa-giardino.blogspot.com
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ebanks84
Grandma knows best!
03:13 PM on 10/24/2010
Speaking of chicken, I just saw a commercial about a broth indicating that you don't have to suffer with broths that have MSG and when the MSG was mentioned, the chicken, potatoes and everything else in the woman's chopping cart jumped up and ran away. It was funny as all heck :).

If they keep making funny commercials like that, I might look at them occasionally :).
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BlackYowe
I am a classical- liberal woman and a Jeweler.
01:57 AM on 10/23/2010
Mmmmmmm I can almost smell this chicken!
12:06 AM on 10/23/2010
Cornell chicken. Buffalo wings. People like our chicken but our ball team sucked tonite.
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BlackYowe
I am a classical- liberal woman and a Jeweler.
01:58 AM on 10/23/2010
LOL I am a New Yorker but not a Yankees fan. I am glad the Yankees got their butts kicked.
08:37 AM on 10/23/2010
Better to root for a team from Texas.

Ho hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
ZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz,,,,,,,,,,,!
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48thGuy
12:16 PM on 10/23/2010
Mike, this is an article about chicken, not turkeys!
04:24 PM on 10/23/2010
Rub it in good. have your fun.
05:22 PM on 10/22/2010
Or just marinate with Spede State Fair Sauce and use the 2-zone method. I lived in central NY for a few years and Spede was one of the best things I found.
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
09:55 PM on 10/22/2010
Love me Binghamton Spiedies! I will be posting my recipe for them soon. Also Syracuse salt potatoes.
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freddychef
Tue,4 Nov '14 Dems take House! & Majority Senate!!
10:46 PM on 10/22/2010
i was wondering about the Syracuse salt potatoes.
looking forward to it.
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freddychef
Tue,4 Nov '14 Dems take House! & Majority Senate!!
10:56 PM on 10/22/2010
most appartment buildings have outlawed wood / birquete bar b-q's. and now, some have outlawed the gas bar b-q (like mine). that has left me with the high end electric grill.
would you consider writting some articles for the people in this situation?
thanks,
freddy.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Steve41
Never insult anyone by accident. R.A.H.
12:56 PM on 10/23/2010
Skip the Salameda State Fair sauce and go for the Lupo's Spiedies marinade... better taste and makes for moister speidies. Much better if you are doing beef or lamb spiedies as well.
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stephenburnett
I am a late 18th Century radical American patriot.
06:05 PM on 10/23/2010
I agree with the Lamb spiedies being the best.

Spiedies were originally made with lamb, but other meats work well too. Pork, especially loin or from a whole pork shoulder, works really well too. The key is giving the marinade sufficient time to really work it's flavor and tenderizing from the acids in it [vinegar, lemon if used too] to do their magic. When I make them, I give it a minimum of 8 hours for the "denaturing" to come to full effect.
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TheRealWalrus
Goo goo g'joob
04:29 PM on 10/22/2010
I cooked a chicken with Meathead's 2-zone indirect method, and it was the best chicken I've ever cooked. The skin was perfectly crisp and the meat was juicy but well-done. I used Old Bay seasoning, and let the chicken stay over the "cool" side of the grill for about 45 minutes, rotating it after about 20 minutes so all the pieces got equal time near the coals. However: The ash trap below the grill had about a half-inch of melted chicken fat when I was done, and I had removed as much fat as I could before I put it on the grill. Next time I cooked, the fat that collected in the grill caught fire, and I had to stop and scrape it off. On the plus side, that was one lean chicken!
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
CR46
spay/neuter and adopt
01:15 AM on 10/23/2010
Simple solution...place a pan underneath the the chicken and grate. I use disposable aluminum pans.
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thecoffeegod
10:06 AM on 10/22/2010
The marinade sounds quite a bit like Big Bob Gibson's white BBQ sauce. Tres yummy.

I must fire up the grill this weekend. I can't stop drooling.
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
09:58 PM on 10/22/2010
Actually Big Bob uses something like a ranch dressing. Here's a recipe that the chef said was scary close to their secret recipe.
http://amazingribs.com/recipes/chicken_turkey_duck/big_bob_gibsons_white_sauce.html
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thecoffeegod
12:51 AM on 10/23/2010
We used to call it Big Dead Bob's. I slipped up one day and actually wrote a check out to that name. The woman at the register just giggled.

I think the only thing the white sauce doesn't go well with is ice cream.
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BBackSoon
Hello, I must be going.
02:20 AM on 10/22/2010
So Mr. Meathead, do you really cook with a thermometer? I cooked in commercial kitchens years ago, and have been burning meat on the Weber for years. I manage to cook juicy pork instead of that dry stuff most people seem to present. I have been known to have a little trouble with things like shrimp, or fish on the grill but birds and 4 legged creatures most I got it down.

I will try this recipe and I like the tip about crisping the skin.
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
10:01 PM on 10/22/2010
I would not light my grill without a good digital thermometer in my pocket. Especially in this era of ecoli and salmonella (to name a few). I'm a good cook, but I hate wasting food. With a good digital thermometer I know EVERY dish is safe and not overcooked. Cooking without a thermometer is like driving without a speedometer. Here's a guide to selecting a good thermometer:
http://www.amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/thermometer_buying_guide.html
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12:07 AM on 10/22/2010
geez. whenz dinner?
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stephenburnett
I am a late 18th Century radical American patriot.
05:44 PM on 10/23/2010
As long as "Meat" Goldwyn is still around and publishing his blogs:

"ANYTIME IS DINNER TIME!"
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Ozark Homesteader
http://ozarkhomesteader.wordpress.com
11:29 PM on 10/21/2010
First, thank you for telling us who developed turkey ham. Bob Baker, thank you. Seriously. And I thank the new companies that now make safe turkey ham by using healthy turkeys and leaving out evil ingredients.

This chicken sounds delicious. I'm brining a chicken for roasting now but will give this recipe a try in the near future. For those below who lament commercial chickens, I'm using beautiful, pasture-raised chickens that simply could not be happier until that one bad day.
yappnmutt
humping legs for liberty
11:07 PM on 10/21/2010
that's on the menu tomorrow in honor of my late father-in-law who turned me on to this recipe long ago. for years i didn't believe it originated and was named at cornell university.
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stephenburnett
I am a late 18th Century radical American patriot.
06:13 PM on 10/21/2010
You ROCK, Meat!

I lived in and nearby Ithaca from early childhood until my mid-30's [specifically in Ithaca for a while, but mostly in and around Binghamton]. My elder sister lived in Ithaca for a number of years and her late husband taught at Cornell in the Geology Department.

Having thus had the chance to avail myself of the Cornell Chicken [and done so a number of times], I know it to be absolutely scrumptious!

Being that I have lived most of my life in the Finger Lakes region, I am also familiar with the wineries there - they were and still are a national treasure. A particular favorite of mine is the "Bully Hill" winery at the southern end of Lake Keuka, but a winery tour and tasting was a trip worth making. It is one that I suggest to anyone coming to New York State, as is the berry farms and bakeries, restaurants and so on.

Since I first saw you on this blog, I have had a great deal of fun reading your posts. The descriptions and photos you provide have been reminders of some of the food adventures I have had my whole life long, and you know how the smells and flavors of food work on the memory - it's a trip back in time almost.

Thank you for your fantastic contributions, "Meat" [if you will grant me the poetic license?]. Your blog is priceless to me!