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Meathead Goldwyn

Meathead Goldwyn

Posted: September 24, 2010 02:31 PM

Read more reports from Meathead's grill deck at AmazingRibs.com

So the meat dress Lady Gaga wore to the VMA awards is going to be made into jerky? Skipping past all the obvious puns, it seems that a conservator is going to dehydrate the dress for display, not consumption. Whew.

Well the idea got me hungry (sorry, Gaga does not make me horny), but the thought of storebought jerky and all its preservatives is almost as unappetizing as eating the well-worn gown from the Gaga collection. So here's how to make your own simple and simply delicious jerky.

Jerky is a fun snack, but it is far more versatile than you might imagine. Sure it's great for hiking, but it can be used in many other contexts. Like BLT sammies? Bench the bacon and play the jerky. Like bacon in your salad? Jerk it and replace it. You get the picture. Many things bacon can do, jerky can do too. Often better! Think of homemade jerky as lowfat bacon.

2010-09-24-jerky_all.jpg

Jerky is dried meat that retains much of the nutritional value of fresh meat but weighs less than half and takes up a lot less space. USDA calls it "nutrient dense." We eat it as a treat nowadays, but it was once an important source of protein.

Nobody knows how long man has been making jerky, but it has probably been around since soon after man started eating meat since it kept for days or weeks without refrigeration. It became famous in the US as cowboy food for long cattle drives. Cowboys could pack it in saddle bags and snack on it while mounted. It was lunch.

The Alton Brown dehydrator

I you make a lot of jerky you might want to invest in a small kitchen dehydrator which can also be used to dry fruits. As an alternative, you can jury rig your own. Food Network chef Alton Brown made his by placing the cooked meat on paper air conditioning filters (not fiberglass filters) and then he fastened them to a box shaped window fan with bungee cords. A clever idea, but you will have to discard the filters after each use (although they might make the house smell nice if you put them in the AC unit...)

Making the meat safe

Pathogens start dropping dead at about 130°F. But at that temp, it takes a long time to kill them. Meat held at 130°F in the center for 121 minutes is considered pasteurized and sterile (107 kill rate). The time needed to sterilize gets lower as the temperature goes higher. So beef at 140°F degrees in the center will be sterile in just 12 minutes, while at 160°F in the center, pathogens are destroyed in just 7.3 seconds, hence the USDA guidelines for the consumer to cook all beef to 160°F . This recipe recommends you take the meat up to 145°F.

Center Temp - Time to Sterilize
130°F - 121.0 minutes
135°F - 38.3
140°F - 12.1
145°F - 3.8
150°F - 1.2
155°F - 23.0 seconds
160°F - 7.2
165°F - 2.3

Click here for the USDA guidelines for commercial jerky production.

Another technique I have read about, but not tried, is to boil the meat for 60 seconds in the marinade before drying instead of smoking or cooking it.

According to the historians jerky has been around since since ancient Egypt. Early hunter-gatherers and nomadic tribes made jerky from animals that were too big to eat all at once. It was probably just thin strips of sun dried meat. It probably didn't take long for these tribes to discover that smoking it made it taste better and keep longer. Soaking in salt water was also probably an early innovation. Biltong is dried meat popular in many African countries. Amerindians ground dried meat and dried fruit to make pemmican. The word "jerky" is believed to have come from the Spanish word charque which means roughly "dried meat."

Over the years the process has been reinvented to improve safety, shelf life, and flavor. Most storebought jerky is dry and leathery because it is salt cured, chemically preserved, smoked or treated with liquid smoke, and processed to meet USDA standards for storage at room temp. Homemade jerky, properly made, can be better tasting, and probably better for you. Let's look at the different methods of making jerky.

Dry cured. This is the true, classic, traditional cowboy jerky, and jerky elitists and survivalists will tolerate no other approach. When done properly, it is tasty, salty, has a shelf life of a year or more at room temp in the bomb shelter, and it is home on the range or in backpacks. This method is best reserved for commercial producers because the meat is not cooked and can harbor pathogens if not handled properly. Here's a rough overview of the process, although there are many variations: Thin slices of meat are packed on all sides with a mix of salt, sugar, spices. The meat is refrigerated for at least two days, and then it is cold smoked and dehydrated at low temps for days. Many folks consider this method risky, and they use a commercial product called Morton's Tender Quick as a preservative. It contains salt, sugar, sodium nitrate and sodium nitrite as curing agents, and propylene glycol to keep the mixture uniform.

Wet cured. Considered a shortcut by some elitists, the meat is sliced and soaked in a concentrated salty brine that has been flavored with spices and a sweetener like sugar, molasses, or honey. Liquid smoke is a common addition. The meat is then removed and dried in a cold smoker, dehydrator, or oven. Tender Quick can also be used. This is the method preferred by commercial producers.

Marinated. My favorite method is easy, safe, and more flavorful. It is a lot like wet cured, only the salt concentration is lower, the flavorings are more intense, and there are no preservatives. Although these jerkies must be refrigerated for long term storage they can be taken out long enough to accompany you to the game, concert, or camping trip. The recipe below has a lot of flexibility, but I recommend you stick close to my plan the first time out. Then riff away.

Not Your Typical Elitist Marinated Beef Jerk


Makes. About 1 1/2 pounds

Preparation time. 45 minutes

Marination time. 12 to 24 hours

Cooking time. 2 hours

Drying time. 6 to 12 hours depending on how thick you sliced the meat.

Ingredients
2 to 3 pounds eye of round beef
1 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup molasses, honey, or sorghum
1/4 cup Bourbon, Scotch, dark rum, brandy, or other dark whiskey
5 tablespoons fresh ginger, peeled and grated on a box grater
3 tablespoons Kansas City style (sweet tomato based) barbecue sauce
3 tablespoons Meathead's Memphis Dust
1 tablespoon hot sauce

About the beef. Since fat will not dehydrate and it gets funky with age, the best meats are lean muscles that are well trimmed. I recommend eye of round, top round, or bottom round. I am told that or flank steak and lean brisket from the flat section are also good, but I have not used them. Do not use ground beef. Pick something that is on sale. This is also a great use for hunks of meat that have been in the freezer a long time. When they defrost they tend to give up a lot of moisture and are therefore less desirable than fresh meat. Jerky is a great use for them.

Other meats. Turkey breasts are good for making jerky. Rabbit loin and lean cuts from venison, elk, antelope, deer, caribou, moose, and buffalo also work very well. Bear is too greasy my hunter friends say. The Oregon State University Extension Service says game meats should be frozen for at least 60 days at 0°F to kill parasites.

About the soy sauce. Soy sauce is the salt source in this recipe and it is important as a microbial inhibitor. Make sure it is more than half the contents of your marinade. Get a good fermented soy sauce like Kikkoman.

About the ginger. Please DO NOT skimp on the ginger and DO NOT substitute ginger powder. It really ads to this recipe.

About the booze. None of the alcohol will remain in the meat after drying. Alcohol evaporates at a lower temp than water. But it does add oaky flavor, especially if you dry the meat indoors or without smoke. The alcohol helps pull moisture from the meat, however, and this is good.

Optional. If you can't smoke it, you might want to add 1 tablespoon of liquid smoke. Worcestershire is another popular addition.

Do this
1) Slicing the meat. Put the meat in the freezer for an hour or two to stiffen it and make it easier to cut. Cut the meat in disks about 1/8 to 1/4" thick. Strive to make them uniform in thickness. You don't want them paper thin because they will shrink in in half, but you don't want it too thick or it will take forever to dry. I like to cut across the grain to make it less chewy. Some folks cut with the grain to give their mandibles more of a workout. They won't be long strips like bacon. Odd shapes are good. They tell people that it is home made. Put the meat a 1 gallon zipper bag.

2) Marinating. Mix the marinade by whisking all the ingredients together. Pour it into the zipper bag. Put the bag in a bowl or pan in the refrigerator to catch any leaks. Let the marinade make love to the meat all night long at least. Occasionally pick up the bag and roll it around massaging it for several minutes to make sure the liquid is contacting all the meat surfaces. This is important. It can stay in the marinade for up to 2 days if you wish. When you are ready to cook, drain the meat in a colander and discard the marinade. Do not save it for another day.

3) Cooking, smoking, and killing the bugs. Jerky elitists don't like the idea of cooking the meat, but it is absolutely necessary to make the meat safe if you are not using a preservative. Smoke is not necessary, but it adds flavor and improves shelf life in the fridge. A good digital oven thermometer is important for this phase unless you've been hankering to get up close and personal with Salmonella, E. coli O157:H7, and Listeria monocytogenes. You cannot trust your grill's bi-metal dial thermometer. It can be off by as much as 50°F.

Set up your grill for 2-zone indirect cooking shooting for 160°F to 250°F in the indirect zone. Go for the lowest temp at which you can produce smoke but USDA recommends you keep it above 160°F. Get that wood right on the heat source to make sure it smokes. On a gas grill you will want to put it in an aluminum foil packet and poke holes in it. If you wish, you can prop open the lid of your cooker to let heat escape in order to keep the cooking temp down. This will also increase air flow. If you normally use a water pan, skip it today. The goal is dehydration not moisturizing.

Spread the meat on a wire rack. Make sure the meat is not folded over on itself or overlapping. Smoke for about 60 minutes. That'll kill the bugs and add smoke flavor. If you are using a grill and the heat is on one side, then you may need to rotate the meat so the stuff on the cooler side goes to the hot side after about 30 minutes. This will get the center of the meat up past the kill zone and start the dehydration.

4) Drying. The final step is dehydration. You can stop smoking and cooking and dry the meat to jerky consistency. That means dark, almost black, but not carbonized, pliable but breakable, but not so brittle that it shatters. Drop the temp to no lower than 140°F and hold it there. If you have a small kitchen dehydrator, you can move the meat there at this stage. They are great because they have a fan and that can reduce drying time to less than 6 hours. Or you can put it in your oven, just leave the door cracked open a bit. Drying on a grill or in the oven can take as long as 12 to 18 hours depending on the temp and how thick the meat is. I dry at about 175°F on my gas grill with one burner on low and the lid propped open about 4" for about 10 hours.

During the process, it will start out tan in color, progress through rosy, and eventually blacken. But it is not really black. It is just really really dark. You want to remove it right after the last bit of rose color disappears. But that's my preference. It will also lose about half it's weight. As it starts to go, start tasting. Learn what texture you like best. This might require a lot of tasting. And beer. And friends to offer their opinions. The drier it gets, the longer it keeps. How long? If you have been careful about cleanliness and hit the temperature guidelines above (this is especially important for game), USDA says it can be stored safely a month or two at room temp. I keep mine in the fridge just to be sure. And yes, it can be frozen.

Other uses for jerky


Sometimes I will not smoke and dry all the meat. Sometimes I will set some aside and just grill it over high heat and then:

1) Throw it on a sammie with lettuce and tomato.

2) Throw it on a bed of rice like Korean Kalbi with thinly sliced green onions, toasted sesame seeds, and some orange zest.

3) Serve it a wrap of lettuce leaves or a wrap of tortilla.

4) Use it in tomato sauce.

Tell me how you use your jerky below.


All text and photos are Copyright (c) 2010 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved

For more of Meathead's writing, photos, and recipes, please visit his website AmazingRibs.com

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Read more reports from Meathead's grill deck at AmazingRibs.com So the meat dress Lady Gaga wore to the VMA awards is going to be made into jerky? Skipping past all the obvious puns, it seems that a ...
Read more reports from Meathead's grill deck at AmazingRibs.com So the meat dress Lady Gaga wore to the VMA awards is going to be made into jerky? Skipping past all the obvious puns, it seems that a ...
 
 
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Ozark Homesteader
http://ozarkhomesteader.wordpress.com
11:30 AM on 10/01/2010
How timely! I got a good dehydrator this summer and planned on using it to make jerky. I was wondering about how poultry would work, since we don't eat red meat. I'm guessing you're looking for 165 degrees F temp on poultry instead of 160 degrees. I'm doubly glad now that I ordered two heritage turkeys instead of one this year. Jerky here we come!
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Dave Harrison
Fighting for the little guy!
02:38 PM on 09/27/2010
I'll be trying this out next weekend. A party for the employees. BBQ burgers, hot dogs and homemade hot and spicy chili, the jerky should make a fine addition. BTW the grille grates work great!
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
04:54 PM on 09/27/2010
There is no better way to improve a gas grill than GrillGrates:
http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_buyers_guide/barbecue_accessories.html
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Dave Harrison
Fighting for the little guy!
05:53 PM on 09/27/2010
Have you ever tried Grape Seed Oil instead of olive oil? It works great for pan searing of strip steak. I am doing it tonight. Grape Seed Oil takes the heat better with a slightly different taste. You have a fan here! I am a beef-a-holic.
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
GerryS
I WANT to pay $1 million per year in taxes, or mor
12:00 AM on 09/27/2010
well,

my sugestion, to save $$ is to cut the beef i 1/4" slices, season it as you want, then spray a bit of generic "Pam" on some aluminum foil and put it on the south facing porch to save the $$.

But bring the stuf in at night, otherwise the coyotes will eat it.

Cuz global warming is here--------------------
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
04:55 PM on 09/27/2010
Then make jerky from the coyotes...
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janie@atthelake
Keep Austin Weird
05:49 PM on 09/27/2010
...giggle,tell it to Rick Perry.
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
GerryS
I WANT to pay $1 million per year in taxes, or mor
11:03 PM on 09/27/2010
naw, coyotes eat crap, and taste like what they eat------------------
HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
xstevejx
10:50 PM on 09/26/2010
Glad to see you mentioned Alton Brown's box fan dehydrator! However, he doesn't like being called a "chef"..."host"/"personality" would better. Also, he doesn't cook his (which is why he says electric dehydrators are technically cookers), but allows the marinade to act as a curing agent.

http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/alton-brown/beef-jerky-recipe/index.html
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
duckzilla
01:31 AM on 09/26/2010
This recipe looks real good. Makes me wish i still had a dehydrator. My father's a hunter and we used to make alot of venison jerky when got a deer , and i'd bet the beef in this recipe and venison would be interchangeable.
HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
benji85
10:17 PM on 09/25/2010
Looks like another good recipe Meathead.

By the way last time I got a chance to grill, I threw in a water pan with the last bit of wine from a bottle, which added a nice little bit of flavor to the meat.
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05:15 PM on 09/25/2010
Nasty. Gaga should stick with her songs.
HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
JScott
John Galt's last name is McGuffin-Smithee
02:02 AM on 09/25/2010
Is there any way to make it with way less salt. I can only eat a few small pieces at a time since it has a lotta sodium.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
08:18 AM on 09/25/2010
I suppose you could reduce the salt, but then you would need to keep it refrigerated. Salt is an important antimicrobial and preservative in this recipe.
03:07 PM on 09/25/2010
Sugars are antimicrobial, too, if the water concentration is low enough.
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03:20 AM on 09/26/2010
Jerky can be soaked to remove salt if you're going to stew it (yummy) or otherwise cook it anyway.
07:41 PM on 09/24/2010
Well, I've been eating this great food for sixty years and I credit my strong healthy teeth to it's toughness 'Tender' Jerky? That's for people who boil their bar-b-cue and drown it in Ketchup. And I can't think of any reason to use sugar, molasses, or any other candy on beef Jerky. I don't think cowboys and Indians rode around with little packets of sweetener in their packs.

Wouldn't this be a great time to reform our culinary habits? Authenticity has its advantages, and this could be one of them. I wonder how many kids think that beef tastes like soda-pop and soy sauce because they've never had the real thing.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
William J Unverferth Sr
Snark attack.
10:37 PM on 09/24/2010
Molasses has a lot of complex flavors to it. Along with garlic, some heat and some smoke it can meld in great. That said too much and over powers a dish. A little sweet can really add to savory. Now I'm not a fan of candy meat and you can go way overboard but leave the door open a crack especially for all molasses can bring.
12:23 AM on 09/25/2010
Look, I'm not trying to tell you how to eat, but why can't I have one single 'flavor' without flavoring? I simply can't taste the subtlety of beef through sugar. At my local farmer's market there are twenty two different examples beef Jerky and every one of them contains candy and nearly all contain soy sauce. Same at Trader Joe's, Whole Foods, etc. I can't find the original style anywhere. (By original, I mean the kind that was the only kind I could get fifty years ago). The reason that sugar is there is because that's the way the marketers want it. It helps them make money. There are many reasons for this, far too complex for a Huffpost comment, but remember, quite often, a little sweet is the enemy of savory. This whole notion of 'complexity' has been oversold: great cuisine is when foods taste of what they are. For me, jerky is best when it tastes of beef, not additives.

So how about fifty-five version for you all, and one little itsy-bitsy single one for me, (hold the candy)? Fair enough?
10:45 PM on 09/24/2010
Cowboys didn't invent jerky. There are as many ways of drying meat as there are of cooking it, from all over the world. None of them is more authentic than the rest.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
08:21 AM on 09/25/2010
Hematite is right. Dried meat has been around long before cowboys and even cows. Buy Monsanto's point is well taken. He likes the flavor of the meat unadorned. I can sympathize. When it comes to steak or fish, I just want mine salted and grilled. No marinades or sauces. Let the natural flavors shine through.I'll have to try some unflavored jerky.
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c-tom
Badges we don't need no stinking badges
05:47 PM on 09/24/2010
Traditional cowboy recipe: cut beef in thin strips, season with salt and lots of pepper (to disguise the fly specks) hang over a barb wire fence until dry.
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
KIVPossum
Moldova Marsupial
03:44 PM on 09/24/2010
Pretty sure I'm not going to eat anything Gaga wears