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The Zen of Beans

Posted: 03/17/11 06:10 PM ET

Beans are a great source of nutrition, and they play an important part in American regional cooking and culture. Their roots are often in other cultures, but the recipes have been thoroughly Americanized. They are especially important to barbecue culture, and that's my beat. It's hard to find a pit stop that doesn't serve some sort of beans. Here are the basics a cook needs to know about beans.

Canned beans are quick and easy. Drain the salty liquid, rinse, heat, and they are ready to eat.

Dried beans are much cheaper and taste slightly better. They just take a bit more effort and a lot more time. As Steve Sando of the highly regarded bean grower Rancho Gordo likes to say "The big advantage of dried beans is the liquid they make. Canned beans need to be washed, whereas real beans come with free soup!" If you wish to use dried beans, it's pretty easy.

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1) Dump dried beans on the counter and make sure there are no pebbles or other foreign matter in them.

2) Give them a quick rinse in cold water.

3) In a bowl, cover the beans with 3 times their volume of water and soak at least 6 hours. You can soak up to 12 hours if you wish. The longer dried beans soak, the less they need to cook. Beans soaked for 6 hours may need to cook 3 to 4 hours. Beans soaked for 12 hours may be done in 2 hours or so. If you don't have time to soak beans, you can cook with dried beans, they'll just take longer to get tender, perhaps 5 to 6 hours depending on the type and size of the bean.

Some folks think that you should discard the soaking water to reduce flatulence, but I have read reliable sources saying that this doesn't work (sorry), and that throwing out the liquid wastes nutrients. Santo says we should use the liquid, and that's good enough for me.

4) After the beans have been added to the recipe, boil for about 5 minutes, cut back on the heat, and let the beans simmer for about 2 hours or until they get soft enough to pierce easily with a fork. Don't boil beans for more than a few minutes or else they will turn to mush. Simmer them.

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If you live at altitude, bean cookery can be consterning. Water boils at a lower temp at altitude because the column of air pressing down on the water surface is shorter and that lowers the air pressure, so vapor escapes the water at a lower temp. As a result it takes longer to cook beans at altitude. A rule of thumb is add 10% for each 1000 feet above sea level.


Quick soak option. Cover the beans with 3 times their volume of water, bring to a boil for 3 minutes. Remove them from the heat, cover the pot tightly, and let it stand for 1 to 2 hours.

Pressure cooking option. Dried beans cook even faster in a pressure cooker. Rinse, soak, and cook 20 minutes in the pressure cooker. Then open the lid and cook another 20 minutes or more until the beans are done.


Approximate Equivalents

Here are some useful measurements. They can vary significantly depending on the type of beans, the size of the beans, or the brand of the canner.

  • Dried beans absorb liquid when cooked so increase the liquid in the recipe when you cook with dried beans.
  • Dried beans expand to about 2.5 times their original volume when soaked and 3.5 times their original volume when cooked.
  • 1 can of beans = 15 ounces undrained = about 10 ounces drained = 1/4 pound dried beans.
  • 1 pound dried beans = about 2 cups dried beans = about 5 cups soaked beans = about 7 cups cooked beans = 4 cans drained beans.


Classic American Bean Recipes


There are numerous classic bean recipes in the American culinary canon, many of them with regional origins. Click the links for my recipes.


South Carolina Hoppin John. Tis a gift to be simple, with ham hocks, bell pepper, onion, garlic, herbs, on a bed of rice.

Texas Beans. Beans presented simply, with a little help from onion, garlic, bacon or fatback, chile peppers, tomatoes, and cumin.

New Orleans Red Beans & Rice. The ultimate pork and beans, with bacon, cured ham, andouille sausage, and a ham bone, tomato, and other goodies, on a bed of rice.

Boston Baked Beans. Bacon or fatback and molasses, the real deal has no ketchup.

Barbecue Baked Beans. Rich, thick, and sweet, like Boston Baked Beans, spiked with barbecue sauce. My recipe has Bourbon in it too.

Frijoles Borrachos. These "drunken beans" start with the usual onion, garlic, chiles, bacon or fatback, and then the all cook in beer.

Hot Dog Chili. Many Americans consider chili to be a mix of beans and ground meat, and that combo is common especially in the East and Midwest, especially on hot dogs. Beans are never found in classic Cowboy Chile.

Pennsylvania Succotash. A native American crazy quilt of lima beans, other beans, corn kernels, tomatoes, onion, sweet peppers, and if you feel like it, green beans, corn, peas, the kitchen sink...

Little Italy Pasta Fazool. This is the immigrant name and preparation based the classic Italian dish Pasta e Fagioli with white cannellini beans, olive oil, garlic, onion, tomatoes, and macaroni simmered into a runny stew. In the US, don't be surprised to see Italian sausage, ground beef, and grated cheese.

New Mexico Burritos. A soft tortilla wrapped around a filling of refried beans, meat, and rice, and then you can start stylin'. Toss in some more beans, lettuce, tomato, avocado, cheese, and tomato salsa are common. Refried beans, by the way, are rarely fried, they're just smashed beans and some water or stock.

Here's a favorite recipe by Sando:

What classic American bean recipes have I forgotten? What are your favorite bean recipes?


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Beans are a great source of nutrition, and they play an important part in American regional cooking and culture. Their roots are often in other cultures, but the recipes have been thoroughly American...
Beans are a great source of nutrition, and they play an important part in American regional cooking and culture. Their roots are often in other cultures, but the recipes have been thoroughly American...
 
 
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04:57 PM on 03/21/2011
"A rule of thumb is add 10% for each 1,000 feet above sea level."

I've never seen this math before, but at least now my epic failures in cooking dried beans has an explanation!
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
TankGirlz
Lyrical Combat
06:43 AM on 03/21/2011
That picture is gorgeous!
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
12:32 PM on 03/21/2011
Tanks!
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LoneTree
Liberty is more precious than life.
06:34 PM on 03/20/2011
Anyone who's not cooking dried beans is missing a huge culinary, nutritional, and economic treat. Beans will feed your belly and nourish your soul. With a handful of ideas and ingredients, you have the basis of an entire cuisine.
09:58 AM on 03/20/2011
To get my dry beans ready - I usually toss them in a pan with water - bring to a boil, cook for 5 minutes, then remove them from heat and cover for about an hour and a half or two hours.. They still need a little cooking time after that but at this point they are ready to go in chilis or soups.
02:26 PM on 03/19/2011
Another, important thing, is not to add salt until the beans are tender, as the salt inhibits the soaking effect.
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
just some guy
I used to be younger.
10:17 PM on 03/18/2011
Beans, beans,
the magical fruit...

Lets have beans at every meal!
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
wildwildwest
Hell is empty and all the Devils are here...
08:35 PM on 03/18/2011
Even fast than the "quick soak" option: Flash soak them.

After washing, put beans in a large bowl with several inches of water over the top. Place in microwave, cook on high for 15 minutes. Let beans stand in microwave for another 15 minutes. Only 30 minutes, and ready to cook! I live in a mile-high city (Abq) so I've had to learn how to speed things up. When my normally sea-level mom came to visit from Louisiana, she tried to cook some beans and said she didn't think they would ever get done!
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traceymarie
the President is black, deal with it
07:58 PM on 03/18/2011
black beans cooked till tender in: garlic, onion,pepper when soft smash. add sauted minced onion, lots of garlic, chipoltle peppers, tomatoes and cilantro....enjoy
08:49 PM on 03/18/2011
tracey, this is one I do often, sometimes adding a bunch of kale or chard for a really nutritious dish. I make enough to freeze some as well for those times I don't eel like cooking.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
traceymarie
the President is black, deal with it
10:57 PM on 03/18/2011
That is an interesting take, usually I just have garlic infused rice....I bet I reek after that. Add my citris pork and I am good to go. Between an Italian heritage and living most of my life in Miami I do have interesting dishes full of flavor.
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halfpricefaustian
Voted for Obama. Waiting for Godot.
05:04 PM on 03/18/2011
For me, pintos do equally well whether presoaked or cooked from dry in a pot. Blackeyes don't need soaking, and yes, they are beans no matter what they are called. For every other bean, especially black beans or white (navy, cannolini) beans, red beans, frijoles peruanos (try them if you can find them), I always presoak and then use the pressure cooker with plenty of water. The pressure cooker always gives me perfect texture and doneness.
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catcancook
Going Forward 2013-2016
04:22 PM on 03/18/2011
I love beans. I grew up eating red beans and rice in New Orleans but it takes time to make a bean dish using dried. I discovered Eden Organic Beans in a can...and they are delicious. Eden also is the only company to use enamel linings with NO bisphenol-A.

You can dress them up in so many ways and it's so fast. There is no can taste either. Saute onions, and add spices,etc. and then add the Eden beans. I was surprised how good they were. They have about 12 types of beans.
02:28 PM on 03/18/2011
My recession-proof hunger-busting crowd-pleasing awe-inspiring pork-and-beans recipe:

2-3 lb pork shoulder cut into 2-3 big strips (or 2-3 "country style ribs")
1 lb bacon, sliced thick and cut into 1-inch squares
1 lb small red beans, sorted, rinsed, not soaked
2 large onions (suggest one white and one red), diced
2 green bell peppers, diced
8-10 cloves of garlic, minced
7 oz can chipotles in adobo sauce
2 tsp ground cumin
8 cups water
1 Tbsp kosher salt, divided

Preheat oven to 250F. Set large heavy pot over medium-high heat. Liberally season strips of pork shoulder with kosher salt. Sear until deep brown on all sides. Set aside covered loosely with foil.

Reduce heat to medium and cook bacon until most of the fat is rendered out. Add onion and remaining kosher salt. Cook until soft and golden, about 20 minutes, stirring frequently. Add green pepper and cook for another 10 minutes, then add garlic and cook for 1 minute.

Stir in chipotles (leave them whole) with their adobo sauce, cumin, water, and then the beans. Place pork strips on top of the beans. They should be almost or barely submerged in the liquid. Cover pot with tight-fitting lid and place in the middle of the oven for 3-4 hours.

Carefully remove pork strips to a mixing bowl (they will be fall-apart tender). If desired, adjust the consistency of the beans using a potato masher (I don't recommend an immersion blender for this). Using two forks, pull pork apart into shreds, then stir back into the beans. 

This recipe is medium-spicy, smoky, fragrant, rich, and mildly sweet. I like to serve it with cooked quinoa or bulgur wheat. You can mix them together to make a filling. I suggest a vinegary salad or slaw on the side.
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kareemachan
watashi ha tororu ga oroka da to omoi masu。
02:20 PM on 03/20/2011
Thanks for this recipe! I'll be trying it!
12:53 PM on 03/18/2011
Beans are my favorite way to make it through the economic downturn! I pressure cook all my beans which makes using dried beans easy...here are the two recipes I make over and over again in the cold months. My six year old also eats both of these dishes and loves them.

http://seaweedsnacks.blogspot.com/2010/04/coriander-mung-bean-soup.html
http://seaweedsnacks.blogspot.com/2010/02/flageolet-bean-soup-for-winters-day.html
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halfpricefaustian
Voted for Obama. Waiting for Godot.
05:08 PM on 03/18/2011
Where in the world do you manage to get dried flageolet? I would like to try them.
08:53 PM on 03/18/2011
I'd like to find them in Marin or anywhere around the bay area. I had them only once and brought them home with me from a trip to a friend's house. They could probably be found on the internet but expensive to ship though they might be worth it. I might ask Whole Foods if they'd carry. I'll be waiting to her Jessica's answer.
11:26 AM on 03/18/2011
Mr. Goldwyn, you forgot all the regional bean soups across America. Navy Bean, Yankee Bean, New Mexico Bean and Black Bean soups.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
05:03 PM on 03/18/2011
Thanks!
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Ozark Homesteader
http://ozarkhomesteader.wordpress.com
11:32 PM on 03/18/2011
You know when I hear regional I get inclined to jump in. I adapted the Southern ham bone beans with smoked turkey (or chicken) stock. It works great! http://ozarkhomesteader.wordpress.com/2010/01/12/beans-cornbread-and-greens-a-frugal-healthy-southern-classic/
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MiraMcB
Stop whining! You lost!
11:15 AM on 03/18/2011
Mmmhmmmm.... Beans, beans. Something about dried beans brings out a sense of adventure. So many to choose from and so many ways to cook them. I wouldn't DREAM of using canned beans. Like the man said, "free soup"! Haha! Not to mention price, quality, flavor, etc.

Living in the Southwest, we never met a bean we didn't like. Beans are, to us, like potatoes are to New Englanders. I love all your recipe choices above. One of our favorites, which is coming up soon, is Ham and Bean Soup.

Once our Easter honey glazed spiral cut is all but devoured, the bone and generous amounts of ham still attached will end up in the soup pot. Into that savory broth will go navy beans, chopped onion, a few chopped carrots, celery, a little dry mustard, salt and pepper to taste. A nice green salad, homemade crusty bread and Voila! My guys love it.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
05:04 PM on 03/18/2011
Watch for my article on spiral hams coming soon. There's an apricot glaze...
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MiraMcB
Stop whining! You lost!
11:14 PM on 03/18/2011
Oh, I am there! I shall put you on my email alert. Thanks!
10:08 AM on 03/18/2011
Beans are a favorite in our family. I cook with both canned beans and dried beans. They are so easy to cook with and very healthy. We love to make chili. We eat bowls of chili, make nachos and burritos with leftovers or make chili dogs. Our favorite chili recipes...
http://www.chili-everyway.com/