iPhone app iPad app Android phone app Android tablet app More

Featuring fresh takes and real-time analysis from HuffPost's signature lineup of contributors
Darya Pino

Darya Pino

Posted: September 7, 2010 03:32 PM

Food marketers have been at it for nearly a century. They're saving us time, making it ever easier for us to consume their products, and all they ask in return is to charge us a little extra for the "convenience." Bless their hearts.

When pressed, most of us will acknowledge that the top priority of food marketers is not to make our lives easier or tastier, but to get us to eat (and spend) more. What's truly remarkable is that despite knowing this, we still parrot and defend their ideas as ardently as if we'd thought of them ourselves.

Do you really believe Krispy Kreme makes the best doughnuts, Ben & Jerry's makes the best ice cream or life is impossibly difficult without pre-sliced bread? My guess is you probably do, or at least did at some point.

But the reality is none of these things are true, and that we think they are is just a sign of brilliant marketing.

Food isn't like other products. There are people who buy every single gadget that Apple creates, and if Apple started making twice as many products per year those people would still buy them all. But humans can only eat so much food, which makes it difficult for food companies to expand their market and be competitive.

Enter "added value."

Sliced bread, instant oatmeal and single serving Go-gurt are all examples of foods designed to be easier to eat. And companies correctly assume that we are happy to pay more for the free time these conveniences allot us.

But does this freedom really make our lives better?

I would never argue that time doesn't have value. Though I think there is a strong case for slowing down and taking time to eat mindfully, I certainly see the appeal of fast and portable food. As a PhD student, writer and website owner I know what it means to be busy.

But convenience is not the only thing you get when marketers sell you on their products. You also eat more, and you eat worse.

Because sliced bread is easier to eat, people tend to eat more of it, along with whatever they choose to put on top. Additionally, since real bread quickly becomes stale when cut into smaller pieces food companies have had to find new (non-ecofriendly) packaging and add preservatives, dough conditioners and other chemicals to keep breads soft.

The ingredient list on a loaf of Wonder Bread is truly remarkable:

Wheat Flour, Water, High Fructose Corn Syrup or Sugar, Yeast, Contains 2% or Less of: Ferrous Sulfate (Iron), B Vitamins (Niacin, Thiamine Mononitrate (B1), Riboflavin (B2), Folic Acid), Barley Malt, Soybean Oil, Salt, Calcium Carbonate (Ingredient in Excess of Amount Present in Regular Enriched White Bread), Wheat Gluten, Dough Conditioners (Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Mono and Diglycerides, Calcium Dioxide, Datem and/or Azodicarbonamide) Vitamin D3. Calcium Sulfate, Vinegar, Yeast Nutrients (Monocalcium Phosphate, Dicalcium Phosphate, Ammonium Sulfate, Ammonium Phosphate and/or Ammonium Chloride) Cornstarch, Wheat Starch, Soy Flour, Whey, Calcium Propionate (to Retain Freshness), Soy Lecithin.

In contrast the bread I buy at Acme, my local bakery, is made of flour, water, yeast and salt. Special loaves may contain olives or herbs, but you get the general idea.

I have to cut it myself and it doesn't last long if I leave it on the counter (it freezes absolutely beautifully), but the bread at Acme is also some of the best tasting bread I've had in my life.

Are you shocked that my Acme loaf costs around $2, while Wonder Bread costs close to $4?

I don't eat much bread, because it is not particularly healthy. But I enjoy burgers, pizza, sandwiches, naan and other traditional foods way too much to cut it out completely. Reasonable quantities of bread can easily be incorporated into a healthy diet, particularly if you exercise regularly. But bread is not health food and eating as little as you're comfortable with is generally a good idea.

We do not need unhealthy foods to be more convenient or less expensive. And if you're going to put health aside and eat them anyway they should also taste absolutely amazing, not good or even pretty good.

Does pre-sliced bread really make the cut? I don't think so.

Sliced bread was never a great invention, it was great marketing. "The best thing since sliced bread" was derived from an ad campaign claiming it's invention was "the greatest forward step in the baking industry since bread was wrapped."

The phrase may be perfect for describing brilliant marketing ("The best added value campaign since sliced bread") but do we really need to continue propagating the message that low-quality convenience food is the best invention of the past 100 years?

If we want a true benchmark for greatness, maybe we should change it to "the greatest thing since the iPhone."

What makes your bread great?

Article originally published at Summer Tomato, where you can find more healthy eating tips.

 

Follow Darya Pino on Twitter: www.twitter.com/summertomato

 
 
  • Comments
  • 53
  • Pending Comments
  • 0
  • View FAQ
Comments are closed for this entry
View All
Favorites
Recency  | 
Popularity
Page: 1 2 3  Next ›  Last »  (3 total)
03:43 AM on 09/16/2010
I love how the author endeavors to dismantle people's food prejudices by perpetuating other prejudices like,

"There are people who buy every single gadget that Apple creates."

Thank you for feeding into the polemical meme that Apple users are nuts with no will of their own.
11:07 PM on 09/12/2010
Look in the frozen food section for sliced bread that is far more healthy for you.
12:12 PM on 09/12/2010
I love this article! Although I frequently question the motives of why products are marketed a certain way, sliced break never crossed my mind.
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
RobParker
11:14 PM on 09/11/2010
that is a nasty list of ingredients.

does wonder bread really cost $4? i would have said about $2.50.

i eat ezekiel 4:9 sprouted grains. low in salt. no white flour. $5.
11:05 PM on 09/12/2010
my family eats Alvarado St bakery,
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Wendy Johnson
09:26 PM on 09/11/2010
Personally, I eat more bread when it isn't sliced, because I am not good at slicing it. My slices always turn out more like chunks, so I only buy unsliced bread when I plan on centering a meal around the bread.

And Trader Joe's does a tasty loaf, white or wheat, for right around $2.00 to $2.50.
09:57 AM on 09/10/2010
Ridiculous. Sliced bread is great!
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Jim Shaffer
50 yo US citizen, 25 year resident in Bilbao Spain
05:52 AM on 09/10/2010
2 things that stood out about american food when I moved to Europe. One, they rarely eat fresh bread, I get fresh bread every morning with the news paper and it's still warm from the oven, delicious and it's cheap and there are many varieties. Two, their coffee is awful, watered down and flavorless, compared to here, starbucks tasted like last years beans to me after living a few years over here. I am not saying no americans eat fresh bread or have decent coffee, I imagine some do, but what's the exception over there, over here is the rule.
photo
HerrMonk
Fighter, Trainer, Nat.Sec.Consultant, Libertine
06:05 PM on 09/09/2010
Let's agree that bread in general has been one of the most over-rated inventions ever...

Along with the grinding mill and mono-cropping...
photo
newtom
eschew obfuscation
11:19 AM on 09/09/2010
The slicer is the great invention -- not necessarily sliced bread. Many if not all bakeries that make delicious bread have a slicer and that doesn't necessarily ruin the bread although it certainly exposes lots of surface area which, of course, accelerates aging. We seem to have accepted this in exchange for the convenience and consistency offered by the slicer.
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
photo
10:07 AM on 09/09/2010
If you were a scientist, you'd know that bread never freezes beautifully. It stales. Or that bread with the right ingredients is perfectly helthy. And we don't eat much sliced bread in our house so I'm glad there is something in my bread that lets me keep it mold-free for a week. (Because it's so environmentally sensitive to throw bread away.) While plain white bread might not be a health food there are plenty of decent whole wheat breads on the market with all the "strange" ingredients you don't seem to understand. Besides, somtimes you need a slice of white bread combined with something like a fried bologna sandwich as comfort food.
Foodies...shakes head...
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
KingHuff
11:30 AM on 09/09/2010
Ummmm.....she IS a scientist and I'm sure she understands the ingredients better than you. She also stated that bread with " the right ingredients " is perfectly fine to incorporate into a healthy diet. But that what is added for our convenience and the shelf life of bread isn't good for us.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
FoodGeekBear
01:02 PM on 09/14/2010
Ummmm....but the author is not a food scientist. She just lists the ingredients and implies they are bad. She doesn't say why. Just another vague anti-food article with no real depth by a blogger who has something to say about something they know little about.
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
11:51 AM on 09/09/2010
Why throw out bread?

If it's getting on in age, make some croutons, put it in french onion soup, bread a chicken cutlet, or even feed some birds! :)

bread, bread, bread. yummm.
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
photo
09:07 PM on 09/09/2010
Stale, sure all the time. Moldy no thank you. That mostly goes into the trash bcause if I put it out for the wildlife, the dogs get into it. Plain ol' no addiitve bread often goes moldy in a couple of days in the summer.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
CindyM272
09:41 AM on 09/09/2010
Great article, thank you
ThinkCreeps
Seriously, it's time.
07:39 AM on 09/09/2010
"But humans can only eat so much food"

I have seen many malls stuffed with humans who are busy challenging this assumption.
photo
LMPE
I connect the most dissimilar things
12:34 AM on 09/09/2010
Nobody's getting me to eat Wonder Bread.
10:17 PM on 09/08/2010
Actually, yes Krispy Kreme donuts are the best.
billstewart
Not a micro-biologist
12:17 PM on 09/09/2010
Krispy Kreme donuts right out of the fryer are pretty good, but once they cool down, they're lame. For a big chain, Dunkin Donuts does better, though none of them are as good as the little independent shop near where I grew up - it's long gone, of course. Here in the San Francisco area, there are a lot of small donut shops run by Cambodians and Vietnamese, which have reasonable products and coffee.
HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
xstevejx
03:36 PM on 09/09/2010
This is relative, though, depending on the person. To me, Krispy Kreme are SOME of the best...esp. their 'kruller' and devil's food ones. We don't have DD around here, but I always liked their vanilla creme filled doughnuts when I did live remotely near one. I will say that while some smaller chains or specialty shops might have better doughnuts overall, I've certainly never had a 'best' one that was homemade or from a market bakery.
09:22 PM on 09/09/2010
DD makes their donuts from powered chalk and sand. There are everywhere in South Florida and I cannot eat one without a lot of milk to give that powder the smooth consistency to swallow.
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Wendy Johnson
09:24 PM on 09/11/2010
Krispy Kremes are Krispy Krack. The high sugar content relative to the density of the donut means that one is never, ever enough. I'm not sure it's possible to eat "enough" Krispy Kremes. There are plenty of perfectly tasty donuts available, with more density relative to the sugar, which can be eaten in somewhat reasonable quantities.
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Spartan112
SPARTANS!? What is your profession?
08:12 PM on 09/08/2010
I pay about 2.99 for a decent loaf of sliced whole grain bread and I can often get it buy 1 get 1...where is this person paying 4 bucks for wonder bread? not at my grocery store.
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
POTUS2008
08:09 AM on 09/09/2010
Yay Sparty!