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David Rosengarten
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Entries by David Rosengarten

Making the Perfect Lobster Roll (VIDEO)

(0) Comments | Posted September 30, 2014 | 3:47 PM

There's not much complexity in making a lobster roll. The most complex part is the opening question: which lobster roll do you want to make? For there are actually two main varieties: the cold, mayonnaise-y one, and the hot, buttered one! Let me frame the debate for you (and show...

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The Great Seafood Treats of Late Summer, Part II: The Fish Fry

(0) Comments | Posted September 1, 2014 | 2:02 PM

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I started a two-part series last week on the great feasts of late summer that involve fish and seafood. Oh, it's not that all fish and seafood are at their best in summer...it's just that:

1) Fisherman are active in summer,...

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The Cuisine of Abruzzo: Easy to Love, Not So Easy to Describe

(12) Comments | Posted August 6, 2014 | 1:55 PM

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We are living through a boom era for Italian regional cuisine, all around the world. No longer do New York, London, Paris and Hong Kong offer a plethora of merely "Italian" restaurants; today, a regional identification is a major attention-grabber. This regional focus,...

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The Agora & the Ecstasy -- Or a Trip to the Greek Market (VIDEO)

(1) Comments | Posted July 8, 2014 | 3:47 PM

Whenever Greeks meet in public, a party-like atmosphere ensues! I've seen this at hundreds of open-air dining tables... and, also, at Greece's great markets. The big downtown market in Athens is among my faves: early-morning bustle reminiscent of the old Les Halles in Paris... plus coffee and eating and drinking!...

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How to Measure the Restaurant Greats (Don't Get Your Hopes Up: It's Nearly Impossible!)

(0) Comments | Posted June 11, 2014 | 11:02 AM

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The incredibly clever foraging basket at Chicago's Alinea
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The immortal Ferran Adrià, of El Bulli in Rosas, Spain

Whenever foodies start waxing ultimato about famous, trend-setting restaurants, I feel confused, principally because I know that said...

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Lobster Gone Wild... on Santorini! (VIDEO)

(0) Comments | Posted May 12, 2014 | 4:12 PM

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Last May, I had a killer pasta-with-lobster dish on my favorite island, Santorini. Today's offering gives you the spiny view... plus most of the rest of the meal as well!

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The Holy Rock Star of Italian Cured Ham Is Hosting "Pilgrims" at His Magical Retreat

(0) Comments | Posted April 24, 2014 | 3:17 PM

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If you love violins, Stradivarius is obviously your go-to guy. If you're a worshipper of frescoes, Giotto is probably your man. Unfortunately, neither man is with us any longer. But if you can find art in artisanal Italian cured pork -- that otherworldly...

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The Key to Opening Clams and Oysters (VIDEO)

(0) Comments | Posted March 27, 2014 | 1:53 PM

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It ain't hard if you know what you're doin'! It starts with two different knives, and concludes with two different motions. Master these multiple mollusk moves, and your dinner parties will change forever... ain't nothin' like opening a few dozen clams and oysters...

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It's Corned Beef Time, But Don't Forget the Pastrami!

(1) Comments | Posted March 13, 2014 | 4:07 PM

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Corned beef on the left, pastrami on the right at Carnegie Deli in New York City

Sure, St. Patty's Day is right around the corner. Funny, isn't it, how the meat case at your supermarket fills up with corned beef...

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Video: How to Laarb One Over the Plate (or Make Thai Salad)

(0) Comments | Posted February 27, 2014 | 8:56 AM

One of my favorite dishes in the whole Thai canon is also one of the simplest: laarb -- a chopped meat salad with various Thai seasonings. This video details how to...

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A New Spin on Spain's Most Traditional Tapas Dish: Spanish Tortilla

(0) Comments | Posted February 13, 2014 | 1:37 PM

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The Spanish tortilla

If you've tapas-barred your way through Spain, surely you've noticed the most recurring tapas item: what the Spaniards call "tortilla." It is almost certainly at every tapas bar in Spain, sitting high, proud, and room temperature on the counter.

...
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Proust & Me... The Tuna Salad Sandwich

(0) Comments | Posted February 4, 2014 | 2:31 PM

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Somehow a tuna salad sandwich hardly seems to compare in Proustian terms with that warm, vanilla-scented madeleine... and yet... when I want to be transported back to the halcyon days of my youth, a no-frills tuna salad sandwich transports me there lickety-split....

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Greek Wine... Pine & Vine? (VIDEO)

(0) Comments | Posted January 20, 2014 | 4:06 PM

I always recoil from knee-jerk Retsina-hating!!! Sure, if it's bad Retsina... but good Retsina is absolutely delicious with Greek food! To me, it's even an essential ingredient that makes a Greek meal taste Greek!...

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The Great Prime Rib Secret

(5) Comments | Posted January 2, 2014 | 8:04 PM

This year, I decided to roast a prime rib for Christmas. And, since I had a large group of food-worshiping people coming over (a dozen of them), I decided to go all the way: a whole prime rib from the best butcher in town. It cost a fortune, but it...

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A Weekend, a Jet, and a Really Big Appetite: Where Would YOU Go?

(0) Comments | Posted December 20, 2013 | 9:04 AM

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When one hears "Northeast Corridor of the U.S.," one starts thinking about the D.C.-Philadelphia-NY-Boston metroplex, about government, history, American literature, and a thousand other lofty things.

I don't. I start thinking about food.

For along that...

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The Breathtaking Au Cheval in Chicago: Finally an American Diner That's a World-class Restaurant

(2) Comments | Posted December 9, 2013 | 3:22 PM

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Fried Bologna Sandwich at Au Cheval...house-made bologna, that is!!!


About 20 years ago, Pat Wells, intrepid expatriate American restaurant critic, published a list of her favorite restaurants in the world in the International Herald Tribune, in Paris. It was a...

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VIDEO: Burgundian Mustard Mousse

(0) Comments | Posted November 22, 2013 | 10:00 AM

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Feeling Burgundian? I am as often as possible! And when I indulge in a rustic jambon persillé, what makes a most delicious partner? Mustard mousse. Oh yeah. All you need is heavy cream, moutarde de Dijon, and the will to whip it! An...

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Three Great Sicilian Hotels, in Three Great Sicilian Places Off the Beaten Track

(4) Comments | Posted November 14, 2013 | 2:49 PM

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On my trip to glorious Sicily two weeks ago, in late October, I found bands of roving Americans devoting days, even weeks, to the exploration of this mesmerizing island. Bravo! It is time we held off on one more Milan/Venice/Florence tour,...

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White Truffles 2013: More Product, More Better... Less Expensive!

(1) Comments | Posted October 20, 2013 | 12:08 AM

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2013 Alba white truffles arrive in New York

Gastronomes are well aware of the deadly upward spiral of the Alba white truffle, the jewel of Italian gastronomy. Priced at under $1000 a lb. within my memory (which seemed expensive then!), this very special...

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VIDEO: The Home Meat Slicer: An Essential Tool for Dinner Parties!

(0) Comments | Posted October 9, 2013 | 2:42 PM

One of my favorite pieces of kitchen equipment is my home meat slicer -- not quite as big as a restaurant/deli slicer, but big enough to get the job done.

Once you have one of these, you never have to think hard again about the proper way to kick off...

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