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Deepa S. Iyer

Deepa S. Iyer

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The Sacred Act of Eating: A Hindu Foodie's Daily Ritual

Posted: 01/14/11 07:14 PM ET

In my great grandmother's house in Thanjavur, a small town in Tamil Nadu, every meal represented an elaborate ritual. Each night, she washed a fresh set of clothes for the next morning (always a colorful nine yards sari and its blouse) and hung them atop the highest clothing line on the balcony, to prevent anyone from inadvertently dirtying them. The following morning, she rose at 4:00 AM, while the rest of the house still slumbered, and took a bath to cleanse before cooking. Prior to touching any ingredients, she prayed, sitting in the main hall beside a faded wall covered with frame after frame of Hindu iconography. Only then would she start to prepare the meal.

When we sat down to eat, in a cross-legged row on the floor across from the prayer wall, the meal itself was systematic. First, someone laid plantain leaves, used as (biodegradable!) plates in rural South India, on the cleaned floor. Then, the men recited Sanskrit prayers, pouring a little water into their right palms and circling their palm leaves with it to signify cleansing the mind and heart before approaching the food. Somebody took a little food and left it outside for the crows -- a ritual called "kaka shadham", or "crows' rice", in Tamil, to return part of the food to nature. Normally, I was designated as the crow feeder.

After all this, the meal would commence with a clatter of sounds, colors, textures, and tastes. We ate deftly, using our right hands to gracefully sweep food across the plantain leaf into our mouths. When the last morsel disappeared, several family members would say aloud "Annadatha Sukibhava," an old Sankrit saying meaning "May the ones providing this food be happy and healthy." The customs, and the food, contributed to a celebration of community and utter deliciousness.

Today, I try to think of my food in this context. I love how truly delicious food can engage all five senses at once. Ripe, bright vegetables, their lush skins just begging to be chopped. The smell of spices -- cumin, turmeric, saffron, coriander, mint -- dancing lightly across the air. The inquisitive tang of my grandmother's freshly churned butter. Crispy, warm pain au chocolate, or the sweet, slightly acidic tenor of fresh mango sorbet.

I could play with adjectives to describe food for hours. In fact, I've developed this skill as a mental hobby over the years when confronting boredom. Instead of suffering through an especially apathetic meeting on retirement options, I take refuge in quietly devising fragrant soups, towering sandwiches and mountain ranges of ice cream topped with Maraschino cherries. I confess: I love to eat. There's a reason why Pixar's "Ratatouille" is my favorite film.

For me, eating is not just about sating a hungry stomach. It's about taking the time to prepare a varied meal and presenting it in an aesthetically pleasing way. I always eat sitting down, and try to eat unhurriedly, really tasting each bite. It's a way to ground myself in the evenings after work: a near-meditative experience. After a long day, I'm eager to come home, kick off my shoes, and dedicate evenings to achieving deliciousness.

Food wasn't always such a spiritual experience for me. As a child, I ate to live -- a finicky eater in a very food-oriented Indian American family. I resorted to craftily concocting various ruses, like spreading leftovers around my plate to make it look sparser, gathering food in a corner of the plate to rest invisibly under my hand, and shifting food onto my father's plate when he wasn't looking.

Hindu culture has an extensive culinary theology that ascribes ritual and mystical importance to food. Food is a manifestation of Brahman, the supreme energy motivating the universe. "Food is God," my mother would tell me, as I pushed curry moodily around my plate as a child. At the time, I couldn't relate: eating quickly was a ticket to getting outside.

Although I didn't revel in food, I always loved the rituals. They made meals more interesting for a child who would rather be playing with friends on the block. Though we lived in America, my mother still sent me outside to leave a little rice in the backyard for the crows.

Hindu scriptures point to three forces that influence food's nutrition: pathra shuddhi, the cleanliness of the cooking vessels, paka shuddhi, the chef's cleanliness and mental attitude, and pachaka shuddhi, the quality of ingredients. Because "you are what you eat," Hindus believe that these three shuddhis, or purities, directly transfer to the eater.

Hindu traditions also place importance on the eater's experience. A Sanskrit saying from the Taittreya Upanishad -- "Annam Brahmeti Vyajanat" -- summarizes several scriptures on the topic. A mystic, meditating on his food, notices a subtle life force permeating the entire cosmos.

The practical message? Eat like it's your last meal, and be thoroughly aware of every bite. In Hindu culture, eating is a ritual: a sacrifice to the Supreme, unified by the recognition that process (cooking), object (food), and individual are all inextricably connected.

Eventually, once I left home, I learned to appreciate good food a lot more. Coming across scrumptious vegetarian food in cafeterias was rare: the food tended to be boiled until it died. I became a real foodie when I started cooking for myself. Today, creating a new dish after a long workday, I feel a connection to my (now deceased) great grandmother, who also viewed cooking as a daily ritual.

I've noticed that we tend to collectively push the seemingly mundane tasks that are critical to survival, like eating, into the background. For many, food is a steady, often mechanized habit. Yet, it has a depth that cannot be ignored. The next time you see something yummy, turn it into your own ritual: sit down, dig in, and enjoy every bite.

 
In my great grandmother's house in Thanjavur, a small town in Tamil Nadu, every meal represented an elaborate ritual. Each night, she washed a fresh set of clothes for the next morning (always a colo...
In my great grandmother's house in Thanjavur, a small town in Tamil Nadu, every meal represented an elaborate ritual. Each night, she washed a fresh set of clothes for the next morning (always a colo...
 
 
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07:38 PM on 02/18/2011
A very savoury read. I always enjoyed the "madi" phase of preparation of food.
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
lilbirdblue
05:08 PM on 01/22/2011
Beautiful.

Thank you :)
06:15 PM on 01/21/2011
Nice article. Indeed, eating is sacred.
04:42 PM on 01/21/2011
Beautiful post Deepa!
~*~* Welcome to HuffPo *~*~
10:27 AM on 01/21/2011
Excellent article, Deepa. Brings back memories of my childhood with my grandmother in Calcutta. This article also reminds all readers of the rich, cultural heritage of Hindus all over the world. Keep it coming.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
mssreader
eat, read, sleep, read and be happy
01:24 PM on 01/20/2011
On my first Thich Nhat Hanh retreat I learned about the taking the time to really appreciate food. We were instructed to take only as much food as we needed and took a few minutes to look at the food and recite, "this Food is a gift of the whole Universe and much hard work, may we be worthy to receive it" and then we would chew the food so any times which gave us time to reflect on the food and flavor and where it came from and the hands that prepared our meal. It was a very enlightening experience for me.
07:27 PM on 01/19/2011
I love to cook and try to present the food to my guests beautifully plated. This article was very inspirational. Thanks to the author.
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Cichawoda
Games can be played to win or to continue playing.
10:46 AM on 01/19/2011
One of the big loses of the Industrial Revolution and the great migration to urban settings is the visceral connection to our food. I grew up in big cities but was fortunate enough to spend my summers in small, "backward" villages in Southern Poland. This has left me with a deep respect for the process of food production and the people who do it. I often wish it was possible to give my children at least a little of the same experience so that they can develop a deeper respect for what they put into their bodies. The industrialization of food production and the complete disassociation of the general population from food sources has produced a society where we throw away more than 50% of edible food produced in or imported to this country while still managing to have the worst obesity epidemic in the world.

Hopefully the organic, CSA, artisan, etc movements can afford some push back to the corporate behemoth that is trying to turn us into cattle.
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opsudrania
A Humanist and investigative journalist
09:38 AM on 01/19/2011
Deepa has described a briliant ritual which is a part of Hindu aka Vedic culture. Someone is getting mixed up and trying to divert the essence of understanding in the name of Hinduism/Brahminism business. This is wrong and misguiding.

First we have to decide, "Live to eat or eat to live". Worst part today is none of it. Because eating today in the so called modern society is a part of filling in the blank and save time for the business by eating it on the streets or on the work table. Get some junk or garbage from a take-away fast food stall, gulp it hurriedly. Even while gulping, the concentration is on the business data and strategy or some diplomacy. This puts the entire digestive system on wrong side. The digestive secretions are misguided due to wrong neuro-hormonal stimulus. This leads to indigestion and its subsequent aftermaths.

This is why in old Indian tradition based on Vedic knowledge, the food alongwith every other daily activity that we perform are directed to a kind of "Worship".

"Annam Brahmam" i.e. 'food is God' is an old Vedic short excerpt from so many elaborate Sanskrit slokas that speaks volumes for food and its importance.
God bless
Dr. O. P. Sudrania
09:08 AM on 01/19/2011
A beautiful article. Cooking has always been an art form to me.
01:52 PM on 01/18/2011
Anupy has some of her slow-cooker recipes on her blog (LOTS of vegan & healthy & simple food)

www.indianasapplepie.com

And I am blogging my way through her wonderful book. You will have more time for Puja if you get this book! Not so much stirring!

www.getskinnygovegan.blogspot.com
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Kelley Smith
Mother, Veteran, IT Geek
12:37 PM on 01/18/2011
Reading the comments on this post is making me so hungry. Need to worship at the nearest Indian restaurant.
06:06 AM on 01/18/2011
Thanks for the lovely article. Being an Iyengar and having grown up in the 50s and 60s, in a nuclear family, my memories of food are of Shathamudhu or Rasam, loosely speaking, hot rice, ghee on the rice and vegetables, very pleasant. Even now, being outside India and away from family, I prefer to cook at home and sometimes just chop a few raw veggies and have them with yoghurt and bhujia sev. My grandmother used to get up early bathe first and then cook food. We loved her thairsadham and used to call her Blonde Pati, due to her platinum blonde hair! Still remember around 60 people eating together in my great aunt's place in Madras and in my uncle's place in Bengaluru. Thanks for bringing back lovely memories and reminding me of what is missing now.
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Wes Isley
Writer and interfaith minister
12:52 PM on 01/17/2011
Thanks for sharing this wonderful ritual. Just yesterday I heard someone else describe how eating should be a reminder of how interconnected we are: with the meat of vegetables, the person who planted it/raised it, the soil, the water used, the sunlight and so on. In most of the U.S., we are so distant from our food, as it often comes to us so altered that it resembles nothing like the original plant or animal. Some people pray as thanks, but in my experience it is more about pleasing God or impressing others than a true focus on the food itself. I've found that, if nothing else, taking the time to prepare food and eat quietly and unhurriedly goes a long way in creating a sense of gratitude.
12:05 PM on 01/17/2011
Brings back lovely memories of hot rice eaten off tender banana leaves with boiling rasam poured in the center "well"! Thank you. Happy Pongal.