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Denise Vivaldo

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Cookbooks

Posted: 04/19/2012 3:52 pm

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I own at least one thousand cookbooks. I love each one I keep. I am sent at least thirty new cookbooks by authors, publishers and PR agents per year in the hopes that I will review their books. I usually don't because I know how much work goes into a cookbook, even the bad ones, and cookbooks are very personal to me. I think of cookbooks as friends. I make connections with the voice of the writer. I want to cook the food. I appraise the photos. If nothing hooks me about the book, I pass it on (some friends just discovered that the thoughtful present I gave them for their birthday was ... a freebie).

For crying out loud, didn't your mother teach you that it's the thought that counts?

My dearest cookbooks have lasted longer than my first marriage. Truly, my current husband (who knew husbands were so fragile?) threatens divorce when he sees the packages in the mail.

"Tell me that is not another cookbook?!"

"Okay, I'll tell you it's not another cookbook."

I'm sent beautiful cookbooks, expensive cookbooks, average cookbooks, totally useless cookbooks and even terrible cookbooks. A terrible cookbook makes me mourn the trees cut down to beat into paper. But then I think, at least this put some people to work. It's good for the economy.

Even when I think the book is a waste, it's very hard for me to tell anybody that. The author will know soon enough when it only sells three hundred copies, and two hundred of those were sold to their mother's church group. I understand from experience that to write and publish a cookbook is a hell of a lot of work.

Many cookbook authors will write just one. Even with a decent advance, you are writing for $1.19 an hour. Royalties will happen, maybe, if you're lucky, and your book touches a market.

The best days for me are the days I sign a cookbook contract and the day it hits Amazon. The rest is a blur. All that being said, I do believe if you think you have something to say, you have to. Just write.

There has been much talk in the news lately about cookbooks and food writing. Will cookbooks survive? Will paper books totally disappear? Is traditional publishing dead? Can you make a living writing cookbooks?

In my opinion, the answers are yes, no, need a new money model, and only if you can live like a monk or have a wildly successful TV show to help sell your cookbooks.

Cookbooks, good or bad, are all about sales in today's market. And they always have been. This is nothing new. What has changed is how the author will sell the book. Book stores have almost disappeared. More than ever, you have to blog, become a brand and create an online following. Tweet, tweet.

In many books, credentials, talent and knowledge have fallen by the wayside. How many books can the author sell? That is the only question.

What I keep asking myself: Are printed cookbooks important? Can't you just get recipes off the web? Why buy a cookbook?

Well, if you read like me, I personally need to turn the pages of a cookbook, not push a button on my Nook. I want to breathe in that new book smell. I want to write in pencil in my cookbooks about my results or any changes or additions to a recipe I might make.
I want to have the author sign my book and let me gush about how much I enjoy cooking out of it.

I cherish my cookbooks by looking at them and remembering what I learned. What wonderful memory or recipe does that book reminds me of? Where was I inspired to travel to by reading this cookbook and how do I share that with my friends and family? How can I set the table after I've cooked?

This week, I gave a cookbook launch party for my friend and legend, Anne Willan. If you don't know Anne Willan, shame on you. Go directly to Amazon and buy one of her cookbooks. She's not much of a twitter-kind-of-gal. She's only a brilliant author with fifty years of cooking behind her.

As I was introducing Anne to a packed room, I answered my own question. I looked down at my copy of her latest book, The Cookbook Library, Four Centuries of Cooks, Writers and Recipes That Made The Modern Cookbook (University of California Press), I held back tears and thought, "Thank goodness I can hold this book in my hands, because it's a lifetime achievement and it deserves more than a keyboard. I want to fall asleep with it across my chest, and hold it again in the morning."


Denise Vivaldo is the author of seven cookbooks. She writes everyday, whether she gets paid of not. She can't help herself.

 

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04:34 PM on 04/21/2012
I love cookbooks for the theory, techniques and the personalities in them, but i find the internet to be the greatest single culinary invention since fire. i was interested in an obscure form of pastry, only one book available in America. Instead, i watched a Malaysian blogger's video and was taught instantly.
09:07 PM on 04/20/2012
This made my stomach tighten trying not to cry. I love holding a book, turning and feeling the pages between my fingers. There's nothing more satisfying than hearing the new book bind crack when you open it the first few times. Looking at the pictures presented for you or imagining what the dish looks like in your mind makes me smile and sometimes drool a little, lol. I only wish my cookbook collection grows to well over a thousand like yours. You are the best. I miss you and Cindie a a whole bunch. :)

- Julie from San Diego, CA; previously Ventura, CA
01:35 AM on 04/20/2012
I agree 100%. Although I don't own as many books as yourself I do love all of mine, A cook book is exactly that and should stay that way..Cook Nook just dosen't jive with me.
thanks..
05:29 PM on 04/19/2012
Lovely.

I too love the written word and want to hold the printed version in my hands, oogle over the pictures (or not) and laugh (or cry) with the author as she tells her stories. Kindle just doesn't cut it for me. I look at my twenty-something niece who learned to cook with her grandmom (my Mom) and her dad (my brother), and I wonder what she thinks about this. Growing up with a cell phone, a PC, a laptop, and now a phone that talks to her she might see it differently. Hmmmm, I have to ask her. Perhaps it is just us wise crones (notice I didn't say "old, mature, wrinkled, or wizened") who still love the comforting feel of sitting down with a good cookbook and a cup of tea who keep the tradition alive.

Thanks Denise, you know I always look forward to reading your witty essays.....gee, and they come to me electronically!
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Denise Vivaldo
Food Stylist, Chef, Author.
06:45 PM on 04/19/2012
Cindy -thank you I have to send you that info.
ox
HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
stillfresh
05:23 PM on 04/19/2012
I've written six cookbooks, won a James Beard award and an IACP Julia Child award, both for the same book. Now what? An ebook? A small book? No book? The celebrity nature of authorship is nauseating. Good cookbooks in the past often came out of nowhere. Now, publishing is so calculated that new culinary thought may never have a chance to emerge. At present, I'm writing a proposal for a single-subject book on a topic I love. That's got to come first -- passion. No one starts such a project intending to get rejected. But being steeled for bad news after hard work is also part of that $1.19 an hour wage. We're .... crazy.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Denise Vivaldo
Food Stylist, Chef, Author.
06:45 PM on 04/19/2012
Dear Ms. StillFresh,
I hear ya.
We also have no choice but to keep writing.
Best,
Denise