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Dorian de Wind

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France: Impressions of a Passer-By

Posted: 10/28/2010 6:11 pm

We recently visited France, traveled extensively through that beautiful country, met and talked with the French people, enjoyed the marvelous food, experienced "French driving," survived le Périphérique, and were somewhat inconvenienced by the French penchant pour faire grèves -- for labor actions -- at the drop of a chapeau.

But we were also touched by the numerous monuments and memorials the French people have dedicated to the World War II Allied heroes who gave their lives to help liberate France -- expressions of gratitude to and respect for the Allied Forces of that war, especially towards Americans, seemingly not in sync with past and recent discords and differences between our two countries.

We were impressed by the many other monuments, memorials and public and private expressions of pride and honor towards their hundreds of thousands of fallen heroes and martyrs -- a welcome footnote to popular history that at times dwells on France's surrender to Nazi Germany at the beginning of World War II and on the controversial role of the Vichy government during the succeeding years.

Granted, the rapid, massive Nazi advance into France -- largely bypassing the Maginot Line -- caught everyone by surprise, including the British, and resulted in sheer political, military and diplomatic chaos and in mass hysteria in France. And, granted, the roles and allegiances of the puppet Vichy government, the Vichy France military, some of the French people and even of some splinter groups of the French Résistance during the Nazi occupation were complex, controversial and, yes, less than patriotic.

But we should also keep in mind that, very early, France along with Great Britain declared war on Germany, making France one of the first participants in World War II and that France in fact invaded the German Saarland in September 1939 and that, subsequently, French forces fought valiantly against the Nazis in support of the Dutch, Belgian and other allied forces and in defense of their own homeland. Nor should we forget the heroic and vital roles of the French Resistance (their "soldiers without uniform") -- 20,000 of whom paid with their lives for their love of a free France.

The monuments memorialize the participation of the Free French Forces during the Normandy invasion, their major role in "Operation Dragoon" -- the Allied invasion in Southern France -- and how the French forces went on to score great military successes in North Africa, Italy, Elba and elsewhere. Finally, how, in 1945, ten divisions of an eventual 1,250,000-strong Forces Françaises Libres (Free French Forces) bravely fought the Nazis in Brittany, in Alsace, in the Alps and finally in the Nazis' own Vaterland. By the end of World War II France would have suffered nearly one quarter of a million military casualties.

By far the most poignant memorial, the most tragic reminder of the heavy price paid by French civilians -- innocent men, women and children -- during World War II is not a monument, not a plaque, but rather the charred ruins of what had once been a quiet, pleasant town in the French Limousine.

We visited what is left of the village of Oradour-sur-Glane and tried to fathom the hell some 642 innocent French men, women and children experienced at the hands of the Nazis on a nice summer day back in 1944.

We tried to imagine how on June 10, 1944, some 200 French men were corralled into barns and other structures and machine-gunned by Waffen SS troops in cold blood. Those who survived the initial fusillade -- the wounded and a few unscathed ones, pretending to be dead -- were searched for among the bodies, chased out of hiding places and systematically murdered, given the coup-de-grace or burned to death.

We tried to comprehend, impossible as it is, why the same group of Nazi thugs herded 247 women, many carrying their babies in their arms or pushing them in baby carriages, 205 babies -- the youngest only a week old -- and school children into the town's church, where they crouched in terror, awaiting the unspeakable massacre that followed: an orgy of wanton terror that left all 452 innocent, helpless human beings butchered and burned to death.

We tried to think why such unspeakable horrors happened. Perhaps because the French Resistance was intensifying its attacks on German troops as they were making their way to the Normandy front. Perhaps because the Resistance had blown up a railway bridge at St. Junien, a small town a few miles from Oradour, killing two German soldiers and taking one prisoner.

Perhaps because it was in consonance with Nazi doctrine and "efficiency" promulgated by the German High Command such as was reflected in a message received by Adolf Diekmann, the commander of the Nazi troops that committed the Oradour atrocities, on the eve of that massacre:


The operations staff of the Wehrmacht expects undertakings against the guerrilla units in southern France to proceed with extreme severity and without any leniency. This constant trouble spot must be finally eradicated... The forces of resistance are to be crushed by fast and all out effort...[T]he most rigorous measures are to be taken to deter the inhabitants of these infested regions who must be discouraged from harboring the resistance groups and being ruled by them and as a warning to the entire population. Ruthlessness and rigor at this critical time are indispensable...

Oradour was not the only place where such "ruthlessness and rigor" were employed, where the French paid dearly for assisting the Resistance or just for being French. There were many more horrific massacres, pillaging, arson and other atrocities in Ascq, Guéret, Argenton-sur-Creuse, Maillé, Clermont-en-Argonne, Frayssinet, Saint-Julian, in several small communities in the Saulx Valley and elsewhere.

While the suffering and sacrifice at Oradour-sur-Glane and at other small villages were clearly horrific, the toll the war took on the French civilian populace was particularly heavy. Most authoritative sources put the number of French civilians killed during World War II at nearly 300,000, with an estimated 75,000 of them killed by 550,000 tons of bombs dropped over France. Millions upon millions of French people suffered indescribable miseries, humiliations, famine and other horrors of war and occupation.

Some seventy years after a particularly complex and troubled period in their long and proud history , the French have not forgotten the mistakes, collaboration and other disloyal actions by Maréchal Henri Philippe Pétain, by members of the Vichy government, by members of the Vichy French military and by others. But they also remember and celebrate the courage, patriotism of compatriots such as General Charles de Gaulle (both a beacon for hope during the war and a lightning rod for foreign enmity during later years), Resistance heroes Jean Moulin, Madame Marie-Madeleine Fourcade and the "Reluctant Spy" Madame Jeannie de Clarens, flying ace Marcel Albert, "Captain-Rabbi" David Feuerwerker and many, many others.

All of us should also remember the nearly 1.5 million French soldiers who were captured by the Nazis before the signing of the armistice and who languished for five long years in Nazi prisons; the hundreds of thousands of French civilians deported from their homeland to perform forced labor for the Nazis; the estimated 56,000 Resistance fighters sent to Nazi concentration camps -- nearly half of them never to return.

Finally, we must never forget the estimated 80,000 to 90,000 members of France's Jewish population who were deported by the Nazis, the vast majority to be exterminated at various concentration camps.

In my opinion, such numbers -- such acts of both valor and martyrdom -- are indicative of a nation, a military and a people that did not docilely submit to the tyranny of the Nazi jackboot.

I am not a French history expert or a Francophile. I am merely commenting on how a brief visit to France, a few conversations, and visiting some "concrete examples" of French gratitude and respect have altered my perceptions -- perhaps misconceptions -- of the French people and of their recent history.

Note: World War II statistics, especially estimates of casualties and of Holocaust victims, vary greatly. Numbers and statistics used here are either the most frequently quoted or a range of estimates.

 
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This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
10:47 AM on 11/02/2010
Just two words : Thank You.
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Dorian de Wind
06:21 PM on 11/02/2010
Just one word for you, mon ami: Merci
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whyus
San Francisco native
01:30 AM on 11/01/2010
We have been to Paris several times. The French like Americans, and are so happy to converse with you if you know even a little bit of French. People have gone out of their way to help us get around the city, recommend cafes, bakeries, etc. I once asked a man probably in his 70s which bus to catch to go somewhere, and he spent the next 10 minutes telling me about his life! We are going back in April, after being gone for 5 years. I hope we find it the same.
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02:52 PM on 10/31/2010
i did some work for a guy who was part of the french resistance, someone painted a swastika on his garage and that was when he told me, i remember real thinking real nazi's and as it sunk in, and the look on his face, well i havent called anyone a nazi since.
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jubo
Valar Morghulis....
05:00 PM on 10/30/2010
A remarkable documentary: Marcel Ophuls' The Sorrow And The Pity.

(Probably not news to anyone here...)
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Schweik
05:27 AM on 10/30/2010
The history of French involvement is a complex one. Both heroic resistance to occupation AND collaboration with Nazis took place throughout the war. The amounts of collaborators was staggering. This is a fact.No need to whitewash it with platitudes.
This does doesn't serve the memory of those who turned down the easy way, did not shrug, light up a Galois and muttered "c'est la guerre," but rather did their best to resist Nazis and French collaborators at great personal peril.
03:24 PM on 10/30/2010
And yet, the Jewish population survived more in France than anywhere else I know, because that is the history of my family.
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jubo
Valar Morghulis....
05:02 PM on 10/30/2010
Indeed, this deserves mentioning as well...
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Dorian de Wind
01:47 PM on 10/31/2010
“And yet, the Jewish population survived more in France than anywhere else I know, because that is the history of my family.”

ClotileEho, an interesting and related story is that, not of a Frenchman, but rather of a Portuguese man who helped thousands of Jews and dissidents---30,000 to be more precise---escape France during the German invasion and thereby probably saved their lives.

His name, Aristides de Sousa Mendes, Portuguese consult to Bordeaux at the time of the German invasion of France. He courageously ignored orders from Portugal that no Jews or dissidents be issued visas. Read more about this true hero in a recent article in the UK Independent:

http://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/profiles/sousa-mendes-saved-more-lives-than-schindler-so-why-isnt-he-a-household-name-too-2105882.html
12:36 PM on 10/31/2010
In line with ClotileEho's comment below, there were some beneficial sides to collaboration. Certain levels of Vichy government did a remarkably effective job of sparing the lives of ethnically French Jews. Admittedly this often came at the expense of immigrant Jews, particularly those from Eastern Europe, who were turned over to the Nazis in lieu of French Jews.

Note that I'm not wholeheartedly condoning or apologizing for collaborators, merely observing that the issue is far more complex than it is sometimes portrayed.
04:28 PM on 10/29/2010
Human behavior has been the same throughout the millennia. Think back to the Peloponnesian Wars - the intial battles were just a version of capture the flag, with some killing - but as conflicts endure, cruelties and vengeances are wreacked. By the end, you have captured prisoners thrown into pits to suffer an inhuman end.

Compare WWI and WWII - the Christmas soccer/football match in 1914 - the war was brutal but still early - no way that would happen later in the conflict, or in WWII.

I hadn't realized the losses France had taken in WWI either - someone told me 1M men died. That's a pretty heavy toll - no wonder people were war weary and unwilling to wage it.
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MajorKong
If the pilot's good, see, I mean if he's reeeally
06:48 PM on 10/29/2010
French military losses were around 1.3 million.

Some of the larger battles saw 50,000+ allied casualties in a single day.
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Dorian de Wind
10:21 PM on 10/30/2010
MajorKong:

Thanks for the info on French World War I military casualties. In addition to the nearly 1.4 million military losses, the French suffered approximately 300,000 civilian casualties, for a total of 1.7 million deaths, or about 4.3 percent of its population.

Some historian ascribe these horrific losses of life during World War I (as I believe some has already mentioned), along with witnessing the fate of Poland during the German defeat and occupation of that country to their "aversion" to war at the time and the decisions made by the (to-be) Vichy government.
03:49 PM on 10/30/2010
If you apply the French casualities to the American population of today, it would be approx. 13,3millions of deaths in 4 years.
04:15 PM on 10/29/2010
French-American couple living in France after spending 16 years of our marriage in the US. They LOVE us in France! Neighbors put up an American flag on their home on July 4th just like we did. Granted, it's more about their passion for motocycle sports than anything else, but it's a hoot! Nobody in America as much as wished me a happy Bastille Day when we lived there.

We also visited Normandy and many of the sites of WWII and were deeply moved by the gratitude we felt there. Not even Bush and his idiotic policies could kill the love between France and America, and for that I am deeply grateful.
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Gracie fr
03:35 PM on 10/29/2010
The fact that the French countryside and most populated urban centers across the country were devastated by two World Wars in the 20th Century might possibly affect the way the French hold an aversion to war as politics by another means.
03:57 PM on 10/29/2010
The fact that France was defeated in Vietnam and Algeria probably has a greater bearing on its ‘aversion to war’ than the nation’s unhappy wartime experience.
ThinkCreeps
Seriously, it's time.
04:08 PM on 10/29/2010
Maybe the US needs to go to algeria, as vietnam doesn't seem to have done the trick for them.
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Gracie fr
04:29 PM on 10/29/2010
Like the current wars fought by the United States, ("out of sight, out of mind") they hardly affect anyone with the exception of military families loosing children. But how would you feel awakening to war: to falling bombs outside your window, the reverberations making the tin soldiers on your bookshelf tremble and fall. Not exactly fun to spend days on end in air raid shelters or scramble for food amid the ruins. Do try it some time and judge by real red-blooded associations and experiences.
03:16 PM on 10/30/2010
"the French hold an aversion to war as politics by another means. " Sorry but the French don't "hold an aversion to war as politics by another means.", you simply don't know what you are talking about.
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martintillier
human
12:52 PM on 10/29/2010
Many of the French who signed-up with the Germans during WW2 did so out of a hatred of the French Communist Party, who had almost completely wrecked the country prior to the invasion. The most commonly articulated reasoning was that France had been unable to either control or get rid of the Communists and their problems with them included the fact that, due to the internecine conflicts, France basically had no government by the time the Germans invaded. The Maginot line was an outdated and unfinished structure, built with the memory of how WW1 had been fought. The tactic of Blitzkrieg that General Brauschitz eventually convinced AH to allow the Wermacht to employ rendered the Maginot line obsolete in military terms. The difference in tactics and organisation between the French Army and the German forces in WW2, meant that while the French sat in Forts and Chateaux waiting for the Germans to arrive, the Germans had been taught and trained to " Seek out and destroy the enemy in the field". The confusion of the French troops, who spent most of the time waiting for orders from septegenarian Generals who were miles behind the front lines, and without telephone contact, meant that the Germans task was made all the easier. Coupled with the split in loyalties, this made a German victory assured. The Das Reich SS division who slaughtered the villagers of Oradour made the excuse that they lost 98 men in two days due to the Resistance.
04:25 PM on 10/29/2010
Thank you for a most informative post!
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kulthur
06:15 PM on 10/29/2010
Yep - just as the Nazis, Fascists, and Franco's supporters enjoyed the support they did mostly because the Communists did their best to destabilize those countries. The crypto-socialists of today don't seem to realize that - but of course the Soviets and their allies made sure that little piece of the puzzle won't be appreciated until the babyboomers are gone - perhaps long gone.
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Paul Poco
11:03 AM on 10/29/2010
Thank you for this article. I'm French and my wife is American. In my relationship with America, I had to face some very harsh remarks. About the cowardise of the french, how we gave up in this war. On the other hand, there is still a lot of misconceptions about America in France and Georges W. Bush didn't help. This is very sad because these two people, French and American have a lot in common, and a lot to share.
A french singer wrote a song about the american soldier who came in Normandy. Michel Sardou, "Les ricains". You should try to find it on youtube.
I know that the last few years haven't been great between France and USA. But I'm deeply convinced that most French still have a very special affection for the Americans, because of WWII, because of the American Constitution and of the French "Declaration des droits de l'homme" preamble to our constitution. Because the French flags uses the same colors as the American flag partly because French revolutionary liked the American Constitution.
04:36 PM on 10/29/2010
I hadn't realized that the French had taken such a terrible toll in WWI - with over 4% of the population killed as a result. I think it's even hard to contemplate what such a figure means.
11:19 PM on 10/29/2010
just mark it as a statistic and move on like the average human being does. then think it was in the past in some fantasy world that has nothing to do with the real world and nothing that can't ever happen again.
10:49 AM on 10/29/2010
Ignorance and lack of historical perspectives are to blame,besides we American have short memory.we do not remember we had surplus and Bush left the office with deficit
Now we blame this administration.the world was two is a matter of ancient rme for us.
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jubo
Valar Morghulis....
06:56 PM on 10/28/2010
The heroism that inspired many in the Resistance still pales in a comparison with the droves of their compatriots who chose Collaboration. Many passively, and many others driven by...

Would you call it a right wing animation? The Charlemagne Divison of the Waffen SS, etc...

And don't get me started on the Jews. The French Republic still owns dwellings that belong to Jewish victims of the Occupation.


To cut it (really) short, this is our lot as people on Earth regardless of geographical or historical dispersion.


France was America's first ally and so not only for strategic purposes. And then the folly of the early 20th Century...

The relationship between the two countries is truly remarkable. There is no stronger bond than freeing each other.

(I need confess being from the infamous hedges of Normandy my affection for America is indeed very partial...)