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Ed Levine

Entries by Ed Levine

Local, Seasonal, But How's the Food?

(0) Comments | Posted January 20, 2010 | 12:04 PM


Sometimes other writers, critics, and bloggers pique my interest in a particular restaurant. Oliver Strand, Frank Bruni, and Adam Platt have all favorably mentioned Vinegar Hill House--though, interestingly enough, none of them felt compelled to write a full-on review of the...

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The Four-Star Italian We've Been Waiting For

(0) Comments | Posted December 10, 2009 | 6:00 PM

When Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich and chef Mark Ladner opened Del Posto three years ago, Batali and Bastianich did not try to hide their ambition. They wanted Del Posto to be the first four-star Italian restaurant in New York, and they weren't shy about telling the world that.

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When Chefs Take Bars Seriously

(0) Comments | Posted November 30, 2009 | 11:19 AM

Ed Levine is off this week; Carey Jones, editor of Serious Eats: New York, fills in.

Saul Bolton has a nose for neighborhoods. Ten years ago, his first restaurant, Saul, opened on Smith Street and garnered immediate acclaim as a Boerum Hill pioneer—a distinction underscored by the Michelin...

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A Peach of a Chef in Midtown

(0) Comments | Posted November 19, 2009 | 11:57 AM


Photos: Robyn Lee

Momofuku's Tien Ho may be the best chef in New York that you've never heard of. That's going to change when Má Pêche, the company's first foray into Midtown, opens in 2010 in the former Town space in the...

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The Best Biscuits in Brooklyn

(0) Comments | Posted November 11, 2009 | 11:01 AM

Brooklyn Star chef-owner Joaquin Baca and I have a history I'm not particularly proud of. When he was partners with David Chang at Momofuku Noodle Bar, I raved about their chicken soup in the New York Times in 2006. There was only one problem. I spelled his...

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Smashed Burgers in the City

(0) Comments | Posted October 28, 2009 | 4:29 PM

Right now, at this moment, it's raining burgers in this burg. And not just any kind of burgers: smashed burgers made from freshly ground, humanely raised beef.

Danny Meyer and company were the pioneers of this style of burger in New York with the now legendary Shake Shack, though...

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A Sandwich Shop Ups Its Game

(0) Comments | Posted October 21, 2009 | 1:25 PM

To me it was only a matter of time before 'wichcraft, Tom Colicchio's very solid sandwich bar, started serving dinner. Why? A couple of reasons. Its food has been overseen since its inception by chef-partner Sisha Ortuzar, who like all talented and trained chefs, developed his craft making non-sandwich...

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Finding Bourbon and Barbecue in Brooklyn

(0) Comments | Posted October 7, 2009 | 3:55 PM

Here's how Char No. 4 in Cobble Hill describes itself: "Char No. 4 is a whiskey bar and restaurant inspired by a passion for bourbon. It features over 150 American whiskeys and serves a menu of American fare with a Southern influence. The American whiskeys are augmented by...

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Going Where No Food Writer Has Gone Before

(0) Comments | Posted October 1, 2009 | 3:19 PM

Almost every day I pass by Dallas BBQ, and each and every time it's packed. Lunch, dinner, even in between. Even more interestingly, it's packed with an incredibly diverse set of New Yorkers, of every race and ethnicity imaginable. All these folks appear to be having an insanely good...

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A Steal Of A Four-Star Meal

(0) Comments | Posted September 24, 2009 | 4:44 PM

When, like me, you've spent the better part of fifty years searching for the cheapest form of deliciousness possible, it's hard to just swallow hard and accept the fact that eating at four-star restaurants is, well, expensive. Really expensive.

So, until I ate the insanely reasonable $28 two-course lunch...

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Fancy-Pants Fried Chicken in Tribeca

(0) Comments | Posted September 16, 2009 | 12:33 PM

As the fancy-pants fried chicken craze continues unabated, it's worth noting that over the last few years I have heard from numerous reliable sources that Andrew Carmellini made the best fried chicken in New York City when he was cooking at Cafe Boulud. So even though Carmellini is now...

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The Breakfast Revival Comes to Brooklyn

(0) Comments | Posted September 9, 2009 | 7:20 PM

Serious cooks are getting mighty serious about breakfast in this town. And as an early riser and serious eater, all I can do is say yay, halleleujah, and it's about time!

Because there was a time, not too long ago, when breakfast choices in New York were limited to Greek...

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Grocery Gourmet: Manhattan's Best Prix Fixe Value

(0) Comments | Posted September 2, 2009 | 11:22 AM

I have literally eaten hundreds of meals at the Fairway Cafe, but most of them have been breakfast, where the pancakes are sublime and the eggs will be scrambled soft if you're willing to send them back the first time, or lunch, when the burgers and fries...

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A Rye We Hope Will Improve With Age

(0) Comments | Posted August 25, 2009 | 7:08 PM

Note: Ed Levine is off this week; Carey Jones, editor-in-chief of Serious Eats: New York, fills in here.


[Photographs by Robyn Lee]

Somewhere in this world is a dog-eared manual inscribed with the title: How To Open A Brooklyn Restaurant: 2008-2009 Edition.

I'd like...

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Bowling and Eating: Easy Rolling or A Big Strike-Out?

(0) Comments | Posted August 19, 2009 | 4:26 PM

All photographs by Robyn Lee

Though bowling and eating seem in some ways to go hand in hand, no bowling alley I've ever been in has tried to seamlessly blend an ambitious menu and a state-of-the-art bowling experience quite like...

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Recipe for Success?

(1) Comments | Posted August 12, 2009 | 1:57 PM

Photographs by Robyn Lee

Traditionally, the Upper West Side of Manhattan has been a place for established chefs to open their first major restaurants. Bill Telepan, Tom Valenti, and Ed Brown all came to the neighborhood to open fairly big,...

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Beyond Banh Mi: The Latest in Asian Sandwich Shops

(0) Comments | Posted August 5, 2009 | 3:26 PM

Caption: All photos by Robyn Lee.

I always get nervous when I hear chefs or restaurateurs talking about "concepts" -- as in, replicable concepts that can be cloned around the city (and around the world) as part of a brand roll-out. (In fact,...

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Pig Roasts: The Latest NYC Restaurant Trend

(0) Comments | Posted July 29, 2009 | 1:53 PM


Photographs by Erin Zimmer

Though it might be a case of wishful (or should I say pig-full) thinking, I don't think it is: Pig roasts are everywhere. In fact, pig roasts may be the new bacon (or maybe...

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Street Breakfeast You Can't Live Without

(0) Comments | Posted July 22, 2009 | 3:13 PM


Photographs by Robyn Lee.

As an unabashed lover of food carts and street cuisine I feel it is not out of line to complain about the quality of food at the typical breakfast bagel and coffee carts that are ubiquitous in many...

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The Greek Coffee Shop (Diner) of Our Dreams?

(2) Comments | Posted July 16, 2009 | 7:50 AM


Imagine, if you will, your local Greek coffee shop or diner (one that only serves lunch and dinner) being taken over by a hard-working fancy pants celebrity chef, who happens to be Greek-American. Sounds promising, doesn't it? Inspired by the pleasure he derived...

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