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Ellen Kanner

Ellen Kanner

Posted: December 27, 2010 09:30 AM

As they say in Swahili, Habari gani? This translates into a combination of "How are you?" and "What's shakin'?" It's about the limits of my Swahili, but it's useful now, being the traditional greeting at Kwanzaa.

Any holiday that takes its name from the phrase "first fruits of the harvest" gets this meatless girl's attention, so I'm entirely on board with Kwanzaa. I like Kwanzaa, a seven-day celebration which continues until January 1, for the same reason I like Thanksgiving -- it's a distinctly American holiday that pays tribute to who we are and where we came from. It's a still point in the midst of winter's gift-giving frenzy, a centering celebration of culture, an honoring of the past, a handing down of ethnic principles and customs and foods, the things that shape society.

Kwanzaa's still a new holiday in the grand scheme of things. Created only in the 1960s, it was designed to celebrate Africa's rich influence in America, an influence so vast, it touches all of us, whether your forefathers came on the Mayflower or you're the first in your family to call this country home. Kwanzaa pays tribute to seven core precepts of African culture, starting with umoja, which means community, collectiveness, a real keeper of a concept.

Our society is riven -- rich and poor, the bailed out and the bailing, Shiites and Sunis, Palestinians and Israelis, North Koreans and South Koreans, Republicans and Democrats, and the ever-divisive meatless and meat-eaters. Umoja reminds us we are more alike than we are different. Kwanzaa is a time to lay aside our oppositions and sit down at the table together -- the food is fabulous.

As at Thanksgiving, the Kwanzaa table is bountiful, but the accent isn't turkey, it's -- as the name suggests, matunda ya kwanza, the first fruits of the harvest, from the traditional foods of Africa to the fusion dishes of the African diaspora, in the Caribbean, Latin America and here. Wherever it's celebrated, one of the holiday's symbols is mazao -- crops. Not just food or even processed food, which was already big in the '60s, but foods from the earth.

America owes Africa for introducing or cultivating crops including black-eyed peas, peanuts and that sturdy winter grower, sweet potatoes. All three are easy to grow, nourishing both the soil and us. They're sky-high in antioxidants and fiber, and in the case of black-eyed peas and peanuts, pack a protein wallop, as well. These are foods Americans once sneered at, dismissing them as low-class. As opposed to what? Lunchables? There's a food that screams elegance (and nutritionally significant? Not so much.).

Like Lunchables, sweet potatoes, black-eyed peas and peanuts do not require refrigeration. Unlike Lunchables, they contain no preservatives or additives. They're just naturally made to last. They're available, affordable, nourishing, shelf-stable (dried or canned beans and peanuts) and seasonal (sweet potatoes, in season now through spring).

These foods encourage umoja and are something we can all enjoy -- like Kwanzaa itself. Me, I'm a pretty easy sell. This holiday had me at fruits. Wishing you a rich and happy Kwanzaa, or as they say in Swahili, Kwaheri.


African-American Sweet Potato and Peanut Stew

This stew contains peanuts, sweet potato and black-eyed peas, a triumvirate of nutrient-dense, delicious crops. Time does the work with this stew, the taste is lovely and complex. Pairs beautifully with rice or flatbread.

2 tablespoons canola or coconut oil
1 onion, chopped
1 jalapeno, chopped, or a good pinch of red pepper flakes
2 stalks celery, chopped
1 sweet potato, chopped
1 pound green beans, trimmed and chopped into bite-sized pieces
1 red pepper, chopped
1 stick cinnamon
1 15-ounce can black-eyed peas or black beans, rinsed and drained
1 15-ounce chopped tomatoes
2 tablespoons peanut butter
sea salt and fresh ground pepper
1 handful cilantro, chopped

Heat oil over medium-high heat in a large soup pot. Add chopped onions and pepper.
Stir 1 minute, then add chopped celery, sweet potato, green beans and red pepper.

Stir another few minutes until vegetables start to soften. Then add cinnamon stick, drained black-eyed peas or black beans and chopped tomatoes. When mixture comes to a boil, reduce heat to low and cover, simmering for 30 minutes.

Stir in the peanut butter. Discard cinnamon stick. Season with sea salt and pepper and gently mix in cilantro.

Serves 4 to 6.


 
As they say in Swahili, Habari gani? This translates into a combination of "How are you?" and "What's shakin'?" It's about the limits of my Swahili, but it's useful now, being the traditional greeti...
As they say in Swahili, Habari gani? This translates into a combination of "How are you?" and "What's shakin'?" It's about the limits of my Swahili, but it's useful now, being the traditional greeti...
 
 
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02:41 PM on 12/28/2010
I've become such a fan of this 'Meatless Monday' phenomena! Every Monday I try to try something new, this week I tried vegan sushi recipes! It's actually quite simple to make, I was surprised

http://www.fourgreensteps.com/community/blogs/four-green-steps/meatless-monday-vegan-sushi-recipes
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Pavarti Ben
01:10 PM on 12/28/2010
It's a recipe, not a journalistic piece submitted or considered for a Pulitzer prize! Also, it is not intended as a base for research in the origins of sweet potatoes. Lighten up people!!
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elcerritan
My bio is not micro
05:05 PM on 12/28/2010
So it's OK if Ellen posts inaccurate and misleading info? It's not just a recipe; it's a "journalist­ic piece" about "food culture" that has a recipe embedded in it. If Ellen doesn't want comments about the origins of the sweet potato, she shouldn't bring up the subject in her column -- and get it wrong. Another writer recently made the same mistake in an article in The New Yorker, whose formerly legendary fact-checkers appear to have fallen down on the job. If the subject doesn't interest you, Pavarti Ben, just read the recipe and move on without trying to tell other people what they should or should not comment on.
07:47 PM on 12/27/2010
Snowstorm. Made this for dinner tonight in the slow cooker. Thickened it at the end with a little flour in butter. Topped it with some chopped peanuts. It was fabulous. Will make it again.
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elcerritan
My bio is not micro
05:01 PM on 12/27/2010
Ellen, you said "America owes Africa for introducing or cultivating crops including black-eyed peas, peanuts and that sturdy winter grower, sweet potatoes." In fact, both peanuts and sweet potatoes are natives of South America.

Peanuts were taken to Africa by the Portuguese and then brought to NORTH America by African slaves, so you are SORT OF correct about peanuts. But you are not correct about sweet potatoes, which originated in South America and were already wide-spread in warmer climates throughout the world before any Africans were being brought to North America. Early European explorers, including members of Columbus's crew, reported encountering many varieties of sweet potatoes in the New World, and these plants were certainly not brought there from Africa.

You may be confusing certain types of sweet potatoes, particularly the orange-flesh types that are commonly called "yams" in the U.S., with TRUE yams, which actually are from Africa, but which aren't widely available in the U.S., and which are botanically completely unrelated to sweet potatoes.
03:35 PM on 12/27/2010
I decided to eat ham on this meatless monday.
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Lesann
The secret is negative reinforcement
05:35 PM on 01/01/2011
WOW, you are clever!
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spitfiredd
My micro-bio has got it going on.
03:27 PM on 12/27/2010
Man you are all over the place in this article...Oh and saying thing's like "a real keeper of a concept" while it may be cute when you and your girlfriends are chatting and gossiping has no place in professional journalism.
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JuanCarlosysofia
11:26 AM on 12/28/2010
that is one demure and sophisticated insult.i could never show my face if someone flung a cream pie like that at me.
12:56 PM on 12/27/2010
Nobody actually celebrates Kwanzaa.