(the spelling preferred to seviche, which is, however, often used), a speciality of C. and S. America, particularly in Spanish-speaking countries (Ecuador, Peru, Mexico are noted for it): raw fish (usually fillets) marinated in lime or lemon juice with olive oil and spices and often served as an appetizer. The name is said to come from the Latin cibus (food) via Spanish cebo (fodder, food, bait) and cebiche (fish stew). For a corresponding practice, of wider scope, in the Philippines, see kinilaw. See also escabeche which is something different but comparable. Indeed, it has been suggested that it could be a European ancestor, etymological as well as culinary, of American ceviche. See Barbara Santich (1985). This would mean the word derives from the Persian/Arabic sikbaj.
When fish is cooked by heat, the main effect in terms of food chemistry is that its protein is ‘denatured’. The citric acid in lemons or limes has a similar effect, although this is not called ‘cooking’. At the time of writing, ceviche is experiencing a wave of popularity in North American restaurants with many variations being worked on the original. The Japanese-Peruvian community has also developed a dish called tiradito (from the Spanish tirar, to throw) which combines slices of sashimi thrown into a bowl with ceviche-style seasonings. They sometimes add the juice of yuzu to the citrus marinade. (See also fish.)
The entry for lizard mentions how the meat of this animal may also be treated ‘en seviche’.
The same technique is used in some places in the Mediterranean region, e.g. in making Acciughe al limone at Boccadasse near Genoa, but not with the same name (and probably without a long history, since if it dated back a long way it would presumably have spread as widely in the Mediterranean region as ceviche has in America).
Alan Davidson was a distinguished author and publisher, and one of the world's best-known writers on fish and fish cookery. In 1975 he retired early from the diplomatic service—after serving in, among other places, Washington, Egypt, Tunisia, and Laos, where he was British Ambassador—to pursue a fruitful second career as a food historian and food writer extraordinaire. Among his popular books are Seafood of South-East Asia, North Atlantic Seafood, and Mediterranean Seafood. In 2003, shortly before his death, he was awarded the Erasmus Prize for his contribution to European culture.
Santich, Barbara (1985), ‘On Escabeche (and Ceviche)’, PPC 20.
