Amaranthus tricolor, an annual plant, probably indigenous to India, whose leaves are grown and sold there and in SE Asia as well as China, for use like spinach. It is one of the numerous plants in the amaranth group, and not botanically related to spinach.
The leaves exhibit striking variations in colour, especially in Bengal, where cultivation is intense. Those of one variety familiar in China have red centres. It is usual to cut Chinese spinach into 5 cm (2″) lengths and stir-fry it. Leaves and stalks alike become limp when cooked, and have a mild flavour.
Alan Davidson was a distinguished author and publisher, and one of the world's best-known writers on fish and fish cookery. In 1975 he retired early from the diplomatic service—after serving in, among other places, Washington, Egypt, Tunisia, and Laos, where he was British Ambassador—to pursue a fruitful second career as a food historian and food writer extraordinaire. Among his popular books are Seafood of South-East Asia, North Atlantic Seafood, and Mediterranean Seafood. In 2003, shortly before his death, he was awarded the Erasmus Prize for his contribution to European culture.