also known as Jack-by-the-hedge, Alliaria petiolata, an upstanding plant of European hedgerows, also known as garlic mustard. The leaves do smell slightly of garlic if chopped or bruised. Grigson (1955) gives a characteristically fine description:
In a brilliant sunshine, in May, one is always freshly struck by platoons of this familiar plant, at starched attention, the starch-white flowers above the new green leaves and against the green bank.
Some of the local names show that kitchen use of the leaves has a long history. Turner (1538) mentions it with the name ‘sauce alone’, since it was used by country people as a condiment, especially in the spring. Gerard (1633) observed that some people ate it, pounded, as a sauce for salt fish, in the same way that they would use ramsons (see wild garlic). In the 19th century it was recommended as a boiled accompaniment to boiled mutton or as an addition to salads.
Alan Davidson was a distinguished author and publisher, and one of the world's best-known writers on fish and fish cookery. In 1975 he retired early from the diplomatic service—after serving in, among other places, Washington, Egypt, Tunisia, and Laos, where he was British Ambassador—to pursue a fruitful second career as a food historian and food writer extraordinaire. Among his popular books are Seafood of South-East Asia, North Atlantic Seafood, and Mediterranean Seafood. In 2003, shortly before his death, he was awarded the Erasmus Prize for his contribution to European culture.
Grigson, Geoffrey (1955), The Englishman's Flora, London: Phoenix House.
Turner, William (1538), Libellus de Re Herbaria Nova, London.
