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Marjoram

is an important culinary herb; but there are many marjorams, and their classification and nomenclature can be confusing. Part of the problem is that Origanum is the generic name for the principal plants which are called marjoram; but oregano, oreganum, and similar names are applied in an unsystematic way to some (only) of these plants and to many others which have in common a single characteristic, namely exhibiting an oregano flavour. A further aspect of this whole complex of problems is that in N. America the name marjoram is largely replaced by oregano.

The plants which bear the name marjoram are relatively easy to list, as is done below. As for the name oregano and its numerous variants, current opinion among botanists is that the term should be treated as indicating a flavour rather than a defined group of plants. The plants which exhibit the flavour belong to several genera. This point is explained here because the present entry would seem defective if read by itself, without reference to oregano.

Four main species are recognized in the genus Origanum:

• Origanum majorana, sweet or knotted marjoram, is an annual plant, native to a region extending from S. Europe and N. Africa to W. Asia. It grows to a height of 30–60 cm (1–2′), forming characteristic ‘knots’; and has a flavour similar to that of thyme, but more sweet and scented. This, one of the most important species for the cook, has been cultivated since ancient times. Although perennial in warm climates, it is at best half-hardy elsewhere. A hybrid between it and O. vulgare, which has been introduced in the USA, is hardier.
• O. vulgare, wild marjoram or common oregano, has a wide distribution in N. Europe and also flourishes in parts of the USA. A perennial, it grows as high as 70–80 cm (2′ 6″ or more) and has relatively large leaves. There are numerous cultivars, including Dark, Dwarf, Golden, Variegated, White. It is this species and its subspecies which are the starting point for any discussion of the term oregano.
• O. onites, pot marjoram, also perennial, less tall than O. vulgare and with smaller leaves, belongs to the E. Mediterranean region. It is sometimes called Cretan or Turkish oregano, or Cretan dittany (see, however, dittander). Less sweet than its larger relation, it is suited to strongly flavoured dishes, e.g. those with plenty of garlic or onion.
• O. heracleoticum, winter marjoram, is much used as a flavouring in Italy and elsewhere, and has several cultivars: Greek, Italian, Sicilian. Several other species were formerly recognized: O. tytthantum, Kirghiz or Russian oregano; and O. kopetdaghense. But these are now regarded as synonymous with O. vulgare ssp gracile.

Comment on the flavouring characteristics of the various species is complicated by the fact that plants of one and the same species will differ noticeably according to the climate in which they are grown. Deni Bown (1988) states that in Greece, for example, there is enough light and warmth to permit O. vulgare to develop the essential oils (containing thymol and carvacrol, as in thyme) which provide its full flavour; whereas in the south of England the plant will grow but without developing these oils properly.

Despite the various ambiguities and complexities, it is safe to say that sweet marjoram was used extensively in classical times and is now a favoured culinary herb in virtually all European countries and N. America. It can be used fresh or dried with delicate vegetables, with tomato-flavoured dishes, and in stuffings, forcemeats, sausages and other preserved meats. Because of its delicate flavour it is best added shortly before the end of cooking or even by adding chopped raw leaves.

Pot marjoram is reputed to have originated in Sicily and was introduced to Britain in 1759. It is easier to grow and lasts longer. Although used in the same way, its flavour is less sweet and may even be slightly bitter. It is more suitable for adding to dishes that include other powerful flavours (onion, wine, garlic).

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