(or pink0020peppercorns) which have enjoyed a vogue as a spice in the last decades of the 20th century, are not related to the common black pepper but come from a different plant, Schinus terebinthifolius. This is indigenous to Brazil, where it is known as aroreira, but since the 19th century has been widely diffused in other tropical areas. It is also called Brazilian pepper tree, Christmas-berry, and Florida holly. In the French island of Réunion it is known as poivrier, sorbier, or incense.
The plant can grow to tree size, and bears masses of ivory flowers. These are succeeded by small, single-seeded berries, which are glossy green and then bright red. When fully ripe, they become dry, with nothing inside except the seed. The flavour is slightly sweet at first, then peppery (with a hint of menthol) and pungent. Although the plant is common in parts of the USA, where it was first introduced for its decorative quality, it is from Réunion that the red peppercorns of commerce chiefly come. They are exported as ‘baies roses de Bourbon’, then processed and packed in France as red or pink peppercorns.
It was Alexandra Hicks (1982) who first dispelled confusion about the nature of these ‘peppercorns’. She explained that there had been two reasons for it. First, the berries of Piper nigrum, the ones which become true peppercorns, do go from a green to a red stage as they ripen (although they are normally picked when green). So there do exist ‘red/pink’ berries which can properly be called pepper berries; but they do not occur in processed form or in commerce. Secondly, there is a plant, Schinus molle, known as the Peruvian pepper tree, which is closely related to S. terebinthifolius and which bears purplish-red berries which have long been used as a condiment in Peru; and this plant is now common in California.
Red peppercorns may be decorative, and serve to add pungency to a dish, but it is questionable whether they are entirely suitable for consumption. Persons handling the plants may develop rashes; children who eat more than a few of the berries, ripe or unripe, experience digestive upsets and vomiting; and birds which feed excessively on the ripe berries become intoxicated and unable to fly.
Most chefs who use red peppercorns are unaware of all this, and do not know what the peppercorns really are.
Alan Davidson was a distinguished author and publisher, and one of the world's best-known writers on fish and fish cookery. In 1975 he retired early from the diplomatic service—after serving in, among other places, Washington, Egypt, Tunisia, and Laos, where he was British Ambassador—to pursue a fruitful second career as a food historian and food writer extraordinaire. Among his popular books are Seafood of South-East Asia, North Atlantic Seafood, and Mediterranean Seafood. In 2003, shortly before his death, he was awarded the Erasmus Prize for his contribution to European culture.
Hicks, Alexandra (1982), ‘Red Peppercorns: What They Really Are’, PPC 10.
