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Fahad Faruqui

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Lessons from a Medina Graveyard (PHOTOS)

Posted: 08/21/11 05:08 PM ET

One can learn many lessons at a graveyard. I once found myself helping carry the corpse of a stranger, an old woman, to its final abode. At the time, I was a 20-year-old on a family trip to the Holy City of Medina in Saudi Arabia.

Following the ish'a (night) prayers at the Prophet's Mosque (Al-Masjid al-Nabawi) and the recitation of obligatory funeral prayer, I came across a middle-aged man searching for help to transport the coffin of the woman, who I later learned was his mother. She had passed away a few hours earlier and her son was eager to fulfill her final wish: to be buried immediately after death.

The son was the only family member present. He was anxious to hastily transport the steel coffin, containing the corpse of his mother wrapped in a white shroud, to the Garden of Heaven or, as it is called in Arabic, Janatu l-Baqi', a graveyard adjacent to the Prophet's Mosque. (Photos of the Prophet's Mosque and the Garden of Heaven are below.)

Since it was late at night, the mosque had emptied quickly and there weren't many eager beavers to lend a hand. A few men on their way out of the mosque regrettably declined the man's pleas for assistance, saying they had far travel before reaching home. I wanted to help, but I was unsure if I would be able to carry the coffin all the way to the grave situated a couple of hundred meters away.

After a handful of men gathered to move the coffin, four men including me lifted it in unison and rested each corner on the shoulder. As we proceeded toward the graveyard, the coffin was tilted toward my side since I was relatively shorter than the other three.

"She isn't heavy," I thought to myself in relief.

A man behind me yelled blessings to the dead as we commenced our walk towards the Medina graveyard. We all joined in enthusiastically, chanting blessings to the dead.

Our voices started to get dimmer as we ran out of breath. The farther we moved away from the mosque, the darker it became. In the sunlight, the sands of Medina graveyard vary in color from orange to a shade that borders on red, with volcanic rocks scattered throughout the grave marking the grave. But at night, it was pitch-black. Our pathway was lit only by the light illuminating from the towering minarets atop the mosque, where Prophet Muhammad, peace and blessings be upon him, rests along with Abu Bakr, the first caliph, and Umar ibn Al-Khattab, the second caliph, may God be pleased with both.

After a few uneven steps, the buckle of one of my sandal's broke, forcing me to push it aside as we continued forward. The ground was warm, even at this late hour. I could barely see where my feet were stepping in the wide graveyard around us. I was granted some relief when a man volunteered to help, seeking only reward from the Creator.

We walked aimlessly for a bit, trying our best not to trample over the other graves as we searched for the woman's resting spot. Once we located it and rested the coffin beside the dugout, I took a peak at the grave. It was remarkably dark -- the darkest shade of black that I have ever seen.

As I stood among these strangers with death before my eyes, and a six-foot deep grave that felt suffocating from above, the importance of my worries drifted away, and I began reflecting on the temporality of life.

It dawned on me how near we are all to death, our inevitable fate, although many of us think about death very rarely.

Quite out of the blue, I felt I was granted clues and answers to questions that had been filling my mind: Why am I here? And where will I go from here?

I had little to no sense of time. My startled parents went out looking for me when they saw all the doors of the Prophet's Mosque closed from the window of our hotel room. I arrived back at the hotel more than an hour later than usual, yet the impression the experience left on me has been lasting. It was a moment of clarity, an hour that changed the very foundation of my existence.

"A moment of true reflection is worth more than ages of heedless worship," Faraz Rabbani, a leading Islamic scholar, said recently on Twitter.

His words reminded me of that night. At certain points in our lives, we have experiences that shake us to the core and compel us to question our outlook on existence and, if we cultivate them properly, bring us nearer to the Almighty. Even many years later, in times when anger, distress, tribulation or temptation has attempted to sway me, my mind returns to that graveyard.

When you become mindful of death, you think and act differently. It becomes difficult to lash out in anger when we know how near death could be. A person conscious of death would think twice before defrauding and deceiving another human being.

By remembering that we will all perish and be buried in dirt, taking none of our possessions with us, it becomes undesirable to wrong or hurt someone intentionally. But one has to realize that death is inevitable.

My recollection of the funeral procession that night is vivid. I remember how time seized for me in the midst of that graveyard. I recall the haunting feeling of suffocation and discomfort that kept me awake that night.

Back in the hotel, as I rested my head on the plush pillow, in an arctic air-conditioned room, I thought of the rock-hard walls encircling that meager grave.

We need not reflect on death at all times to keep us on track. Paying attention to life -- to the wondrous creations of the universe around us -- can always draw us near to God and prompt us to be grateful. But also reflect on death, since it turns you away from the superficiality of the world and curbs your ego.

I would not say I am a man of immense knowledge. I haven't spent an adequate amount of time fully uncovering the miracles of the Quran as deeply as I should. I have my ups and down. My faith, at times, dangles, and then I have to realign my thoughts. It happens more often than I am ready to confess here.

Yet I find remembering the inevitability of death from time to time is one way to stay grounded. During a course on Buddhist ethics I took a decade ago with Robert Thurman, the professor related a tale of a newlywed royal couple who went to a celebrated monk, Atisha, for marriage advice.

Initially hesitating to offer any since he had never been married himself, the monk finally yielded, giving some of the soundest marital advice I have heard: "Eventually, husband and wife, each will die. So now while alive, you should strive to be kind to each other."

Thoughts of death need not flood our minds with sorrow and negativity, as we should understand that death is a natural part of the journey of life.

If we work on making every prayer count as if it's our last and set aside time from our busy schedules, including the social media that consumes a measurable chunk of our day, to unwind the thoughts and worries entangled in our minds, we may become better humans and will indeed have a greater chance of living with peace.

Medina
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The Medina graveyard, dubbed the "Garden of Heaven," in the foreground and the Prophet's Mosque in the background.
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Many thanks to Kevin Martin for licensing photography for this article.

 

Follow Fahad Faruqui on Twitter: www.twitter.com/fahadfaruqui

One can learn many lessons at a graveyard. I once found myself helping carry the corpse of a stranger, an old woman, to its final abode. At the time, I was a 20-year-old on a family trip to the Holy C...
One can learn many lessons at a graveyard. I once found myself helping carry the corpse of a stranger, an old woman, to its final abode. At the time, I was a 20-year-old on a family trip to the Holy C...
 
 
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03:25 AM on 08/28/2011
Absolutely inspiring article .. Thank you for sharing your experience and I must say that I'm blessed coz I've been born and raised in Medina Al7mdollellah.. and may all of us have that moment of true reflection .
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Fahad Faruqui
12:11 PM on 09/12/2011
You're indeed blessed. Give my humble salams to the noble prophet, peace and blessings be upon him, when you visit the mosque next, please. Many thanks.
sjaent2001
Change gets Challenged, changer gets Cross/poison
10:39 PM on 08/27/2011
So much about death and the feelings -- when I think about death, it is just one breath - as soon as the breath stops death occurs. So when breathing one should thank the Lord that this very breath keeps us alive. Now if we start thinking as we are living we all the 7 billions people on earth are sharing the same fresh air via our breaths alike so naturally we are all one but our mental statuses has changed the whole course of human destiny. ---- it is not we do not have examples we have enough lessons from history and this place Medina has such an imprint on the history that the best example of a single person who changed the course of humanity and its destiny ---- we are not allowed to learn from HIS PBUH example how HE PBUH changed the pagans of the land to the conquerers of the world and made all human beings equal irrespective of their origin, black white brown, race and color, gave the rarely seen dignity and status to women that is not seen anywhere in world now despite the feminine freedoms moments which have brought direct confrontation among sexes for worse and not anything better, and established the rights and duties between individuals, state, God and family. It is never late in life we should if time permit to learn how to save humanity from our present day fears of existence and economic failures so desperately.
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Fahad Faruqui
12:08 PM on 09/12/2011
Thank you so much for your thoughtful comment. I hope readers heed your words.

God bless!
sjaent2001
Change gets Challenged, changer gets Cross/poison
11:16 PM on 09/12/2011
In these days of undestined followings we look at the faults of others to prove ourselves strong and above. I read in a book 'Western Civilization that in the 6000 plus years of written history of the world few people devoted their lives to leave this world a little better place then what they got --- they worked among their compatriots, devoted to think, find solutions to problems, instill confidence in themselves and their destiny, now we have leaders fearful of something unknown happening, our financial strength goes down the drain as rumors of distant debt defaults reach our Wall Street, We are ready to do everything but to find the solutions to our problems ---- For me Jesus PBUH and Mohammad PBUH did the same they sympathize with the poor of their nation and instill confidence and make their weakness strengths -- in our present economical equation the greatest component is FEAR and a saying in an oriental language, sums it all --that even the greatest scholar on earth LUQMAN who had all answers to all questions but no cure for FEAR, such is our status as a nation under fear of something. The door of good we close and the door of bad we make wide open and then worry and fear what have we done. I think the Life of that Single Medinite is full of that hope that can help us change our course out of the seemingly 40 years of wilderness after the surplus of
sjaent2001
Change gets Challenged, changer gets Cross/poison
02:10 AM on 09/13/2011
Indeed it is altogather a different world when you visit this land and see the spirituality radiating light to those who seek righteousness like the lighthouse that guides through its light to the ships to reach destination from the far far away sailing on the vast oceans. To me this is a perfect example there are few of those who make people to learn and come to safety but there are a lot more who pride in leading a majority to minority and the minority to the majority ---- if we can understand this transgression of the theoroms of angles and of different angles no matter how we calculate it is always the 360 degree that is of matter of interest. Let us keep that light on through example and what we need is freedom from fear and confidence in ourselves despite our world standing as the sole super power of the world.
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truthupontruth
Grateful for every atom, photon and second
06:58 PM on 08/27/2011
Death is something that a Musslim is encouraged to contemplate every day. A big part of our faith is belief in the unseen, that what we perceive with our eyes is not the extent of life - we cannot see angels or jinns or demons, but they exist.
I find that reminders of the truth of life, as the author experienced that night, are gifts from my Creator that He continues to bring truth to me. That reminds me, I gotta pray right now.
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wom122
Primum non nocere
09:14 PM on 08/26/2011
I love Islamic architecture.
10:14 PM on 08/23/2011
Interesting article, thank you for such beautiful imagery.

"A moment of true reflection is worth more than ages of heedless worship."
I wonder how many of the pilgrims to this holy site reflect, as they walk from the mosque to the cemetery, on why the Prophet's two friends are buried right next to him, but his own daughter and grandson, his own flesh and blood is far, driven away by the points of sharp arrows and the sorrows of sharper betrayals. May God make the remainder of this blessed month a means towards deep reflection for us all.
06:10 AM on 08/23/2011
Wow, do all Islamic cemeteries look like that? Very naturalistic. Appreciate it I do.
01:40 PM on 08/24/2011
No. In some Muslim countries, you'll find concrete graves with marked headstones.
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southingtonian
"I'm a Capricorn and you can't make me do sh*t.."
12:33 AM on 08/23/2011
how fortunate you are to have had that experience, and to have been awake for it. Too many are so consumed by their personal concerns that such moments pass before them ungrasped.
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HamletsMill
All Myth is Astronomy
12:02 PM on 08/23/2011
Fanned for your FABULOUS micro bio!
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southingtonian
"I'm a Capricorn and you can't make me do sh*t.."
05:48 PM on 08/23/2011
it's a quote from 'dinner rush', and apt in my case. ;-) reciprocating your fanning.
07:17 PM on 08/22/2011
Absolutely amazing and inspiring article.
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cuoi
I wish everyone happiness.
11:35 AM on 08/22/2011
Thank you for sharing this personal experience. There is much to be learned from your article.
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BurtonDesque
Fear a Blank Planet
01:27 AM on 08/22/2011
Here's another lesson from a Medina cemetery - Don't let the Saudi police catch you there if you're not a Muslim.
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Charles Fortner
Every man a king, but nobody wears a crown.
07:01 PM on 08/21/2011
Thank you for your insights.
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Cindbird
Using my head for something other than a hat rack.
05:54 PM on 08/21/2011
One of the subjects Buddha kept speaking on was death. In something called "The Five Remembrances" we think of these every day as Buddhists, to help keep us grounded.
(1) I am of the nature to grow old, I can not escape growing old.
(2) I am of the nature to have ill-health. I can not escape having ill-health.
(3) I am of the nature to die. I can not escape death.
(4) All that is dear to me, and everything I own are of the nature to change. There is no way to escape being separated from them.
(5) My actions are all that I own. My actions are the ground on which I stand.

These remind us of the impermanence of life. And that we WILL die one day. It reminds us to never take a moment for granted. I believe you learned that lesson in a graveyard as well, Mr. Faruqui. But it is, in the end, a lesson in life as well. May all of us remember death, so that we can live life openly and aware of the small moments of light and love.
06:57 PM on 08/21/2011
Thanks for your kind note.

I've read the "Subjects for Contemplation" in my Buddhist Ethics class that I mentioned in this article with Robert Thurman, the first American Indo-Tibetan monk to take Buddhist woes under HH Dalai Lama. Like Siddhārtha (Buddha), one has to realize that death is inevitable, which, in my view, rarely happens by virtue of reading a sutta or a sacred text (in any religious tradition).

Buddha was unaware of death, illness and old age until he was of marrigeable age, before which he was living a life of bliss in his father's palace, where he was more or less confined. He became mindful of death when he saw a funeral procession on his first ever venture outside the palace alone. In my case, though I had buried a friend when I was in grade 8, which shook me, the funeral procession in Medina got me thinking of death (instead of grief that follows when a loved one dies) and the temporality of life more seriously.

All my best.
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Cindbird
Using my head for something other than a hat rack.
09:36 PM on 08/21/2011
I was lucky enough, or unlucky depending on how you look at it, to work for a private ambulance service that also had the body contract. We picked up the recently deceased from homes, hospitals and nursing homes. We even sometimes picked up for the Coroner. As a paramedic, I saw first hand just how fragile the human body is, but the calls for the deceased brings that home in a different way. Buddha talked about the 9 charnel ground meditations. We don't have charnel grounds, at least not in the West, but I was exposed to something very similar. I consider it a gift. It took away any idea that I am invincible. And taught me to honor life. Maybe in the end, that's what cemeteries are for. To teach us to value life. It seems like realization in a cemetery or charnel ground has been the way to that revelation since mankind began to honor the dead. May you always be blessed.
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cuoi
I wish everyone happiness.
11:33 AM on 08/22/2011
And your comments reveal one of the "secrets" of transforming suffering into happiness.
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Cindbird
Using my head for something other than a hat rack.
06:53 PM on 08/22/2011
I don't think it's a secret. I think, just like we breeze past nature's beauty as we go about our way every day, we just miss it. And funerals help us to stop and SEE. To see that we're all living on borrowed time. It's up to us to choose how to spend it.