Philip Treacy, Christopher Kane, Erdem, Mary Katrantzou, Burberry, Peter Pilotto: all the London stars, all together in the space of a few hours. All so different from one another -- not even color acts as a common thread for the shows.
Philip Treacy dedicates his show to Michael Jackson with a series of jackets and gloves and trousers so refined they were a fitting pedestal for his hats -- true works of art. Chapeau! A show that featured only black models and that displayed a totally unique class, inventiveness and creativity.
Christopher Kane redesigns his woman in pastel hues and more geometric and sharper shapes. He started with white and developed a collection with skillful cuts and a flawless realization. A more mature collection that simply enhances the fact that when a few years ago, insiders placed their bets on him (and Donatella Versace was the first) and they were totally right.
Erdem, a revelation only some years ago, has been able to establish over a few seasons an individual style, feminine, colorful soft yet sensuous, using appliqué and layering highly refined embroidery.
Mary Katrantzou carries on with her signature practice, magnifying objects and turning them into original prints. This season, only stamps and again magnified Swarovski crystals. Amusing and singular, for a woman who likes to play with fashion and indulge in unusual patterns.
Burberry has reworked the trench coat, cutting little bolero jackets, blazers cut just below the breasts or traditional trench coats with revisited silhouettes, like ample sleeves or cinched waists and new fabrics like metallics, that were the common thread of the show. Metallics in strong and contrasting colors, for dresses, trench coats and shirts. Also, for men.
Peter Pilotto has a preference for prints of assorted patterns, from geometric to black and white to super-colorful to folk, with a few garments that called to mind the Africa-inspired collection showcased by Missoni two seasons ago; yet he maintained his own personality and style. A string of new and stimulating collections that showed a marked desire for femininity and romanticism. And we have VFNO in Florence tomorrow.
I'll be back for the event and shall be in Florence. This is our first time in this city and I don't know what to expect and how the Florentine will react. Weather forecasts are good and the stores are getting animated. And Fiorentina has just won. Over to you, citizens of Florence, who should be happy for everything, and also for the beautiful city you live in. We hope that VFNO may be a great success just like your favorite football club: Fiorentina!
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