Visiting Leogane the day after the inauguration, we are plunged into the canyon between the promise and its fulfillment. The city, which was the epicenter of the earthquake, is desolate, a combination of "the hour before the shootout" in the Westerns, and a scene from after the apocalypse. There are empty lots where once there were buildings; rubbish is thrown on top of rubble; motorcycles buzz around, but their riders are solemn.
We stop to buy Haitian CDs and talk with a 30-ish man whose face looks frozen, who is standing near the rack. "Is this your store?" I ask, of the tiny cabin.
"It is not mine," he says, "but I built it."
"What about your house?" I ask.
"My house was destroyed," he replies.
"Did you lose family?" I ask.
"Yes," he says, and slowly, deliberately, names them. "My brother, my other brother, my sister, my mother."
Around us, other young men stand like statues. Only when the music from the CD begins does anyone move. The young man who actually owns the store shuffles his feet and smiles a little. A couple of the other guys sing along with Belo.
We spend the morning at the Cardinal Leger Hospital, destroyed in the earthquake and quickly rebuilt. Haiti's lepers come here, older people without legs, or with fingers and toes amputated by the disease; brothers eight and 12 years old whose noses have collapsed and whose faces and hands already bear the scars of the condition.
The kindly and concerned Sisters and lay nurses who are in charge have been overwhelmed by the suffering around them -- staff, friends and family killed in the earthquake, as well as by the weight of sadness their patients bring. Out in the country, living with people whose illness has wasted them, meeting acute care needs, they are clearly stretched thin.
Little by little, they brighten during our workshop, appreciating the relaxation of Soft Belly, laughing with the shaking and dancing--"The first time laughing since last January 12th," notes one sister.
Here's a quick video we took of participants dancing at a Port-au-Prince workshop --
Sharing their drawings, One sister notes how rigid her body is in the drawing of her "biggest problem", and how the flower that she draws in the third picture ("the solution to the problem"), bending gracefully toward the sun, is a "lesson to remember." Before we close, JJ teaches us all to stretch in our chairs.
Afterwards, outside, the Sisters show us the bushes blooming red, yellow, white, and orange, and reach up with a net to fetch us mangos for the road. "We will use what you have taught us, ourselves," says Sister Yolande, the Director, "and we will teach our patients too."
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