Returning to Tiananmen Square

I have always had the gift of traveling around the world on someone else's dime. First it was to Africa as a high-school senior after I received the 1974 Kodak/Scholastic Photography Travel Scholarship. Then a fact-finding trip through South America in 1978. United Press International paid for my posting to Brussels in 1981. The Associated Press offered Asia on a plate during my Bangkok assignment in 1987. A recent trip to New York courtesy of a Columbia University DART award. Then, a few days ago, I returned to Honolulu from Beijing. The BBC had provided a very special gift -- the chance to revisit a part of my past during the 20th anniversary of the student uprising in Tiananmen Square.

***

When I entered the lobby of the Jianguo Hotel on May 17, 2009, I noticed minor changes since my stay in 1989. The coffee shop windows were no longer boarded up from Army gunfire. The bamboo chairs in the lobby were still there though a bit darker with age. I could still envision the photographers sitting in the lounge asking every new arrival what was happening in the streets outside. The heavy smell of cigarette smoke lingered as my luggage dropped to the floor. I opened the drapes and looked outside to the view below. My God, so much had changed. I reflected back to cowering behind the same bathroom wall every time a column of soldiers fired their weapons and that hellish night of June 4th following the Tiananmen crackdown. I had suffered a serious concussion after a stray rock slammed into my face. The Nikon Titanium camera had absorbed the blow saving my life.

As I ordered room service, the stale cheeseburger reminded me of how stunned I was 20 years earlier to see CNN footage of events I experienced only a few hours before on the street. I recalled how sick I was from the flu and my throbbing concussion. That feeling of guilt mixed with regret for not returning to the streets after the injury and my sheer terror of almost dying. The fact is, I was just too scared, injured and sick. The decision probably saved my life.

One positive observation was that the Jianguo Hotel staff was more pleasant than 1989. There seemed to be a happier, more upbeat feeling in the air. The heaviness that I experienced two-decades earlier was absent. Perhaps China had indeed improved for the better?

I had some reservations about returning to Tiananmen Square. But as I walked down one of the wide, tree-lined boulevards near the US Embassy, I felt such peace from that hell two decades earlier. The wood burning smell of Asia in the air took me back to my Bangkok posting years before. It was like visiting an old friend. I looked in wonder at all the new shops and office buildings. It all had become more capitalistic than America.

On the day before my return to Honolulu, I struggled with jet lag and finally made the pilgrimage to Tiananmen Square. Security police squinted at me with cold stares and I felt like squinting back but I could not. The black and white video of a Chinese tank toppling the Goddess of Democracy was still etched in my brain. It was hard to imagine that this wide open square in the late afternoon was once filled with joyous hope for the future and dancing children only to be left in ruins with blood-stained tents.

Yes, China had changed... but not the cold stare of watchful eyes.

Here are photos I took from the Tiananmen Square protests in 1989:

Jeff Widener/Associated Press

Jeff Widener/Associated Press

Courtesy of Jeff Widener

Jeff Widener/Associated Press

Jeff Widener/Associated Press

Jeff Widener/Associated Press

Jeff Widener/Associated Press

Jeff Widener/Associated Press

Jeff Widener/Associated Press

Jeff Widener/Associated Press

Jeff Widener/Associated Press

Jeff Widener/Associated Press

www.jeffwidener.com

Comments

[carolrhill814]

I couldn't even imagine how horrible it was on that day it is beyond my understanding and that is a fact.

How could anyone in their right mind in that country stand where they knew they could either die or surely get really hurt but they wanted to stand up for their rights and they had none then and still don't have any today.

For the most part people in the United States don't even know how lucky they really really are and I don't believe they ever will and that is a fact.

[Democrab]

In 1990 I had the opportunity to meet and record three organizers of that uprising. They had come to a studio in Boston to record songs they had written. These songs were to be played on secret junks with radio transmitters circling mainland China. I engineered these songs and created some music for them. One of the songs was directed at Shen Tong's family because there were threats back home that were affecting his family. There was security present as threats to these three kids were flying around, even in America. They were Wu'er Kaixi, Shen Tong and Liu Yen. I remember their humor and positive attitudes in spite of the danger surrounding them. They won my admiration as real heroes who had risked their lives for a democratic China.

[deepfreezevideo]

Jeff, do you remember a TV camera operator named Y.B. Yang?

[xtiangodloki]

Interesting piece from today's slate on Chinese government's take on the "tank man"

"One example of the government's interpretation of events is the infamous image of a man in a white shirt blocking four Chinese tanks. At the time, the Western media pushed the "Tank Man" as a symbol of Chinese military might bearing down on its own people. Chinese television broadcast the entire video—in which the tanks try to drive around him before he finally disappears into the crowd—to show how much restraint the soldiers used."

http://www.slate.com/id/2219697/

If you read some of the comments, you would believe the tankman was either eventually ran over by the tank, or maybe caught by the secret police and executed. What's a lot more likely happened is that nothing happened to the tank man...

[victorsays]

I think the western version is very biased. The Chinese soldier did show restraint, even to the point that it embolden the man to climb up on the tank. The tank did try to swerve around the man. This was weeks protest. I don't think the US would allow weeks of protest in the US.

Just imagine that happening the US, the US police will shoot first question later. We all know about US police brutal of shooting people who are unarmed.

I also saw picture of burning army vehicle, which mean the army was attacked as well. It is a protest turn violent, and need to be put down.

Try protesting and attacking US army vehicle. Of course, the only picture we see is the iconic image of the tank man.

[JudgeMoonbox]

"Just imagine that happening the US, the US police will shoot first question later. We all know about US police brutal of shooting people who are unarmed."

This is like saying that because the US isn't perfect, no American has any right to criticize China. Take the Kent State and Jackson State killings--six dead; and any coverup was not nearly as hegemonic. There was no pressure on May 4, 1990 to pretend it never happened.

"I also saw picture of burning army vehicle, which mean the army was attacked as well."

It's lamentable when a protest movement doesn't live up to an ideal of Gandhian nonviolence, but there has been zero evidence that the students were nearly as lethal as the Chinese Army.

"It is a protest turn violent, and need to be put down."

That is, if you believe that Li Peng has ESP. The putdown started long before the protest turned violent; and if victorsays had any concern for his own credibility, he would know that.

[xtiangodloki]

The army vehicle was more than burned down. The students actually killed a few soldiers. LA Times has many good pictures (including those taken by the author of this article).

http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/world/la-fg-tiananmen-pictures,0,2647279.photogallery?index=16

It's interesting that most publications do not publish this picture. If you read the caption for this picture, it stated that the students killed the soldier and were kicking his corpse. Maybe the students were angry because the soldier fired and killed first, but if you were a soldier who witnessed this it would be difficult to control the situation without resorting to further violence.

Both the Chinese and the Western media tried to make this into a black and white issue. It's difficult to argue that journalists were not biased from the selection of the pictures which were published. At the end of the day, the reality is a lot more complex than what the Chinese nationalists and the China-haters would like to believe.

[IsaacKuo]

If nothing happened to the tank man, then where is he? Who is he?

Why doesn't the Chinese government proudly show him off, to prove that everyone is wrong about their fears?

[xtiangodloki]

Because the Chinese government doesn't know who he is?

Think for a moment, the tank man is the single most recognizable person in this whole incident, even more than the student leaders themselves. After this event the entire China was under the microscope of Western Media and student activists. If the Chinese government arrests this guy, wouldn't his relatives, friends, or anyone contact the student movement which will eventually be discovered by the Western media? Afterall, this guy is a hero to many people.

[FairTalk]

Why should they? The Chiunese gov does not answer to those who call for their overthrow, and call the Chinese people worthless. (Chai Ling)

time to show respect. The last time I say Wu'er Kaixi, he was scolding the Chinese gov officials that generously agreed to meet with him.

Why do you care, anywhy? What have you done to help lift China out of the third world? The majority of Chinese people have made real sacrifices to improve China for everyone who lives there, not just for a few spoiled intellectuals.

[superstition]

"Let this day be a reminder to all how important The Freedom of Information Act and Transparency are in the US."

Obama's support for the new Graham-Lieberman secrecy law

http://www.salon.com/opinion/greenwald/2009/06/01/photos/

"What kind of a country passes a law that has no purpose other than to empower its leader to suppress evidence of the torture it inflicted on people?

(This) is part of a broader trend whereby the Government simply retroactively changes the law whenever it decides it does not want to abide by it.

Other than creating an illusion of transparency and accountability, what's the point of having laws that purport to restrict what the Government can do if political officials just retroactively waive those laws whenever they want? What's the point of having a FOIA law if the Government will simply pass a new law exempting itself from FOIA's mandates any time it loses in court and wants to conceal evidence anyway?

Given that anything which reflects poorly on our Government can be said to endanger our troops and American citizens, why stop here? Why not just have a general power of suppression whereby the President can keep any evidence secret as long as his Defense Secretary decrees that its disclosure will "endanger" the troops?"

[superstition]

Indefinite "preventative detention"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uuWVHT1WUY

[jdlund]

Whether or not you agree with his decision (I don't), he is absolutely right. The release of the pictures does have the potential of endangering the troops. You have no idea what are on those pictures. Neither do I, but I am willing to bet that many of them are intensely horrifying. Remember what happened when Newsweek suggested that the Koran was desecrated in attempts to get the prisoners to talk? Huge violent riots in Pakistan.

What happens if picture evidence of much much worse emerges? Of course it has the potential to strain diplomatic efforts with the Middle East and of course it has the potential of causing riots which directly endanger U.S. troops. It's not a stupid argument. It's an argument based on well document facts of passed reality.

What happened when they found out x happened-strained relations and anti-US riots. What happens when pictures of worse emerges? My guess, possibly more of the same. In the end I think they should be released but it's not like he's doing it cause he likes Bush so much or he's really an a-hole. He has everything to gain from making the GOP look bad, he has no motivation to hide them since he had nothing to do with it. I am willing to believe he thinks it's the best thing for the above stated reasons. I disagree in the end, but it's not a bad argument.

[punk]

Always hiding behind the troops, just like all tyrants do.

[gascelebrations]

There is a new Tank Man picture that surfaced this morning over at NYT.

You cannot stifle the truth. You cannot change what happened. You cannot rewrite reality.

I will remember this event like it was yesterday. And so will the thousands and thousdands of students I have taught since, and so will their children.

[Lindy565]

The Tank Man will remain a part of history forever, even if China wants to wipe this memory clean from its citizens' minds. Back in 1989, the government offered the people of China two doors; one was open to political change, and the other one was open to capitalism and prosperity. Now that the Chinese people have chosen "capitalism and prosperity," look what has happened to their country. Part of the country has become immensely prosperous, and the rural areas still remain mired in poverty. China, in its rush to copy the West, now suffers from smog and pollution from its factories and cars. The workers in the cities are paid low wages and often send money to their relatives in the rural areas. What would Tank Man think if he knew what happened as a result of the protests of 1989? Did the people of China really gain anything? Are they rushing headlong into another clash between the government and the people since the government still keeps such tight control?

[gascelebrations]

Be careful what you wish for if you choose capitalism over democracy.

It makes me wonder if they actually had a democratic society if it would be a sham nonetheless.

[AZNNeoCon]

Lindy565, hahaha, your ignorant comments make me laugh. Do you know how many people the Chinese government have lifted out of poverty in just one generation? 500 million and counting. It is because of this precise focus on capitalism and prosperity that have given the Chinese people the freedom to be able to seek new freedoms. The change from the old system to a better, more free society. As an American, I'm sure you'd love to see China be plunged into the economic and social hell that was Russia right after the collapse of the Soviet Union.

Please get an education.

[JonShank]

Odd how, during that period of time, the U.S. was in cold war fight to the death with the USSR, yet did NOTHING to help the chinese people, who were, and are, under extreme communist rule, which of course means a police state. I wonder what the difference wa$$$$$???

[NewYorkStateofMind]

what would you have liked the US to do at that time?

a war with china?

I wonder of you would have supported that war?

[jdlund]

A, this was 1988, the Berlin wall was going to fall in a year. Gorbachev was the head of the USSR, which means we were far from a "fight to the death" with the USSR by that point. The Cold War was effectively ending by 1988. But, I'll repeat what the other poster said, what on Earth do you think the U.S. could have done to stop this? Nothing. How many people did Stalin kill? Did we stop that? No. There's no hypocriscy here. Sure are government has a lot of hypocrites, but you are more than just stretching on this one. Your argument is insanely absurd. If you want a real argument point out how we had an embargo against Cuba for how inhumane they supposedly were despite the fact that we openly traded with China. Cuba has never been anywhere near as bad as China, in terms of how their respective governments treat its citizens.

[JonShank]

Thank goodness, China is now a bastion of freedom and human rights!

[NewYorkStateofMind]

unfortunately not even close

[matthewhusseinsmith]

What are you smoking?

[FairTalk]

Well, compared to the US, I would say no. But compared to China before 1949, I would say yes.

So, what is your complaint, change is not happening fast enough? Or are you one of those who claim there is no change at all?

[matthewhusseinsmith]

"China is now a bastion of freedom and human rights!"

Alright then, you should ad:
"compared to 1949."

Because the way the original sentence stands, it's a statement about present times and relative to other current states.

[breakingpoint]

Most Chinese Citizen never even heard of this guy and those who have will not talk about him because they would risk prison. That's the power of the Chinese Communist Government and Media.

Let this day be a reminder to all how important The Freedom of Information Act and Transparency are in the US.

This man's stand was profound and represents all peaceful and freedom loving people across the world.

I hereby declare 5 June 2009 as The Freedom of Information Act Day - aka Tank Man Day

[FairTalk]

Nonesence, China filmed and broadcast TV cobverage of the demonstrations and protests every day. I actually watched the China TV coverage of the Tank Man.

[WWang]

I had been in the US for 4 years when the protest and crack down took place. Everyday my family and I followed the news stories coming from out homeland. I had seen several of these photographs during that time in the years since as I search eagerly for stories on Tiananmen ever June 4th. These photos made us feel like we were there with them. So thank you.

As for those who want to follow every story about world atrocities with "oh but America's done comparable, if not worst" the very fact that you can say that, and face absolutely no government reprisals prove that America is, in fact, not. And for those of us who came to this country for shelter from the oppression from the land of our births, we'd like you chew on that for a bit.

[squarebird]

Thank you, WWang.

[victorsays]

Except for the African American and Native America. You came to America to become second-class citizen. You will never be accepted as American. That why they put the Asian in from of the American.

[NewYorkStateofMind]

you know nothing of the US

[squarebird]

So, victorsays, what would you say to the son of a Kenyan Muslim? That he would not be accepted as an American? Don't bother striving to be a member of the PTA? How about the Presidency. You are absurd.

[JudgeMoonbox]

"Except for the African American and Native America. You came to America to become second-class citizen. You will never be accepted as American. That why they put the Asian in from of the American."

My brother-in-law is from Guangzhou, and he is as accepted as American as anyone. I think that even if the Civil Rights Movement of the 1960s had zero effect, we could not maintain a tri-racial society--the Asians would be assimilated into White society as the Irish and Italians had been.

[FairTalk]

Clearly, you are a victim of the misinformation put out by the mainstream western media like everyone else who were not in China. You had no alterbative, nonbiased information, and you were unable to be on the street.

[dukesman]

Oh yes, I remember the "Tank Man" He was voted as Times 100 Most Influential Persons of the Century, and yet still no one knows his name, or what happened to him, after he was dragged away by police. My guess is he was murdered. I tell that image of him standing in front of the columns of indestructable tanks restricting their movement is so profound and so powerful.

[Polichick66]

I've read that the Tank man is living Taiwan, but nothing can be confirmed.

[Pupadup4oBama]

it's very much a David vs Goliath moment. True bravery at it's best.

[commentator101]

Had that picture on my wall for a long time.

[BlueZoo]

Nothing has changed in China since that terrible day! Twenty years later, on this day of days, the Chinese wouldn't allow cameras or reporters onto Tiananmen Square for fear they would attract crowds and maybe dissenters. While the tanks aren't around, the streets are filled with plain-clothed police waving news crews away. The same students from that day twenty years ago now teach in China and are vocal supporters of the current regime. Indoctrination works over there, I guess.

Are you aware that the #1 country's citizens applying for immigration into the U.S. are the Chinese? I wasn't aware of this either! If things are so wonderful over there, as the Chinese government would have us believe, the people would want to stay! It's a day to mourn.

[AZNNeoCon]

Looks like someone didn't like my comments hahaha.

I'll say it again, "get an education you ignorant fool"!

[biabouman41]

Amazing how much false information came out of the Tianenmen "incident". After the first couple of weeks we were told that about 20 people were killed there, then it went to a couple dozen, then a couple hundred, then several hundred, then many thousands, then today I heard millions. We need to get some reality too it. The picture of the young man standing in front of a tank and not being run over will not be the end result in any American city. Ask the people of LA in 1965, Newark in 1966 and 1968, NYC in 1968, Detroit in 1968, Washington in 1968........on and on.

[squarebird]

You are wrong. See WWang above. (No one has ever stated 'millions' at Tainenmen square - that is silly - although Mao did directly and indirectly cause the death of hundred of millions of his own people over time). Also, no American soldier would or ever has run over American citizens with their tank. Why would you even say such a thing?

[chopenhopper]

That photo is right up there with the flower in the guns of the national guard. Icons of the times. A picture is, indeed, worth a thousand words--and memories. Thank you for documenting that symbol of history.