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"Kobe" Burgers Debunked

Posted: 06/14/11 11:39 AM ET

If you're a burger lover, you've undoubtedly noticed the trend in recent years of restaurants flaunting "Kobe" beef burgers, usually with inflated price tags. The truth is, real Kobe beef is a delicacy, but the "Kobe" label is applied too liberally based on an ambiguous definition. ChicagoBurgerBible.com is here to help clarify:

Where's the (Kobe) Beef
Kobe refers to a specific breed of Wagyu cattle raised in and around Kobe, Japan. That's it. Unless your beef was raised in Kobe, it is not Kobe.

Wag-who?
Wagyu cattle (literally translated to "Japanese beef") were introduced to Japan centuries ago and unique herds developed due to varying breeding techniques developed over countless generations (we've heard that such techniques include massaging the animals and feeding them sake and beer). These techniques over time caused the cattle to produce beef that is celebrated for its intense marbling, high fat content, extreme tenderness and rich flavor

While Kobe is the most famous variation of Wagyu beef, there are many others that, unlike Kobe, are now found all around the world, including here in the States. Wagyu cattle in the United States are typically bred with Angus cattle in order to help them become more tolerant of the climate, and also to give the meat a deeper red coloring that Americans associate with high-quality beef.

Kopy-cat
Some ranchers try to replicate the unique techniques that their counterparts in Kobe, Japan employ in order to produce a similar product. This beef might be referred to as "Kobe style," and it might even exhibit many of the same characteristics as Kobe. This beef may even be sold to you in the form of a "Kobe" burger. But, since the Kobe can only be produced in, well, Kobe, do not be fooled into thinking your $13.00 burger was shipped in from Japan. Unless you're spending a lot more than that on your patty, you can put your raised little pinky finger back down on your bun.

Why Do We Care?
Frankly, we don't. We've found that Wagyu beef (including Kobe-style) offers a buttery, rich flavor that makes the basis of many tasty burgers. That said, the distribution and quantity of marbling that makes Kobe the steak-lovers Holy Grail becomes less relevant in a ground burger patty. Regardless of the origin of the beef, grinding fat and other ingredients into the beef is commonplace. Usually, the Kobe label is just a marketing tool to be wary of, employed to justify a high price. Unless you're paying over $10 per ounce for that burger, you're most likely eating some other strain of Wagyu or American-style Kobe.

We don't really care what you call the beef, as long as it tastes great and is not overpriced.

Here are Chicago Burger Bible's reviews of two Kobe-style burgers, Paramount Room and Luxbar.



Paramount Room
We were instant fans of Paramount Room and even bigger fans of their "Kobe Burger." Like all really great burgers, the best part of this masterpiece is the patty itself -- Wagyu beef, thick and tightly packed, juicy but not dripping, and its seasoning is just about perfect -- present but not overpowering. They offer one standard burger option -- brioche bun, lettuce, tomato, red onion and special sauce (a tasty combination of ketchup, mustard, mayo and diced pickles). Cheese and other toppings cost a buck extra each.
$9 - $13
River West
www.paramountroom.com


Luxbar
A Golden Triangle standard, Luxbar provides the debutantes with a refreshing fill of prime beef. The double patty combines very well with its superb pretzel bun (right amount of flavor, perfect size and texture) and toppings to provide their burgers with a very good overall flavor. We give their "BBQ" burger (with delicious tangled onions) a slight edge over their also good "lux royale" burger. And the more expensive "Kobe" burger has nothing on either of these two, so don't splurge. The fries are good, but towards the bottom they become soggy.
$11-14
Gold Coast
www.luxbar.com

 
If you're a burger lover, you've undoubtedly noticed the trend in recent years of restaurants flaunting "Kobe" beef burgers, usually with inflated price tags. The truth is, real Kobe beef is a delicac...
If you're a burger lover, you've undoubtedly noticed the trend in recent years of restaurants flaunting "Kobe" beef burgers, usually with inflated price tags. The truth is, real Kobe beef is a delicac...
 
 
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Michael Dayne
01:20 PM on 06/21/2011
Another reason to stay at home and cook. I make a gourmet burger at home by grinding two types of steak in my food processor at a cost of about $4.00, bun, cheese, onion and homemade thousand island included. About the only type of food I go out for any more is sushi, otherwise anything I can order in a restaurant I can prepare at home better and cheaper.
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halfpricefaustian
Voted for Obama. Waiting for Godot.
05:31 PM on 06/18/2011
There are certain things that I want to try once in my life. Beluga caviar -- done that. Johnny Walker blue -- done that. Kobe beef -- I wanted that until I saw a picture of it on a show (Diary of a Foodie?) and it looked awful. More fat than meat. Off the list. Fugu -- not yet but still very much on the list.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Michael Dayne
01:22 PM on 06/21/2011
Kobe beef is overrated, just like Bentleys, Crystal Champagne, and pretty much anything Oprah Winfrey endorses. Did you know that Kobe Bryant was named after his father's favorite Japanese steakhouse?
03:20 AM on 06/17/2011
mooving story.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
DrJohnnySkeptic
The road to success is always under construction.
03:05 AM on 06/17/2011
I've never had one, but I'd like to try it. It sounds good.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Max Shaw
My micro-bio is no longer empty.
03:28 PM on 06/16/2011
Gimme a double!! Of everything!! Ah...so hungry right now and I just ate too...*sigh*
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imusintheevening
With,without,who'll deny it's whatthe fights about
01:37 AM on 06/16/2011
The funny thing about Kobe beef for me is that having been to Japan about 100 times on business, I once got taken to a restaurant right next to a Waygu ranch, got served the famous beef, and ended up with giardia.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
CynAnne
Laureates in Fact and Reality
11:32 PM on 06/15/2011
I'm still dreaming of the delicious steak I had a few weeks ago - locally born and bred, grass-fed (and more-rare-than-medium, thank you)...it was so, SO good.
01:53 PM on 06/15/2011
Thank you for the article. It does lay out a few of the facts about the issue.

To be a little more explicit...."Kobe Beef" is actually a Brand owned by the Japanese breeders of the product.

Kobe Beef {the true product) is actually only produced from a specific bloodline of the Wagyu (Black) called Tajima or Tajiri,the parentage having to be 100% Tajima on both sides.

Currently,maybe 5000 head per year are raised in Hyogo Prefecture, but only maybe 3000 make the grade to be branded "Kobe Beef".
To be considered "Kobe Beef" the cow may not weigh more than 470 KGs,that is 1034 lbs.If it weighs any more it is not even considered.Plus, of cours it must meet other stringent quality attributes.

Hence it's rarity.

Other bloodlines are Kedaka (Tottori), Fujiyoshi (Shimane),plus others.Different bloodlines,IE different genetics produce different qualities within the breed.......Framesize....milking attributes.....fertility....temperament etc.

The Tajima bloodline is that which contributes the fine marbling that "Kobe Beef" is known for.

Just to make it more interesting, there are sub groups within each bloodline.

The modern 100% Wagyu cow tends to be a blend of the major blood lines.This is called a "fullblood"

The Wagyu x Angus cross,also known as an F1 is called a Purebred which seems an anachronism I agree,but that is the way it is.
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kooosh
oh hai there!
06:24 AM on 06/16/2011
Wow, you know a lot about Kobe beef. :)
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Naithom
Estne volumen in toga, an solum tibi libet me vide
02:29 PM on 06/17/2011
How do you see the recent radiation problems effecting the sale of Kobe Beef?
06:00 PM on 06/17/2011
The radiation from the damaged nuclear plants does not affect the sale of "Kobe Beef" per se in that the fallout is many kilometers north of Kobe and Hyogo Prefecture where Kobe Beef is produced.

The farmers in the region close to the damaged plants are the losers here. From what I have read approximately 8000 head of Wagyu cattle (Blacks) will probably have to be put down (if this has not already occurred)and the farmers will be forced to walk away from their farms and lively-hood.Each of those cows is valued at approximately 1,000,000 yen or around US$8000.00. But it is not just the monetary losses, the unusable land and the upended lives of the farmers and their families to be considered here. It is also the loss of valuable genetics and bloodlines that may not be able to be replaced.

The issue for the Kobe Beef Brand is one of perception in that many people confuse Wagyu beef with Kobe Beef as previously discussed.

In the Japanese Beef industry, "Kobe Beef",(The real deal) accounts for only 0.06% of the annual production.

In Japan the Kobe Beef all have traceability SKUs so that a diner or purchaser of the product can see at a glance the complete history of the Animal being consumed, from Parentage to inoculations .....everything.Some Wagyu producers in the United States are also providing this information.
09:39 AM on 06/15/2011
The meat in the kobe beef sliders had from the local gastro-pub for $15 isn't from Kobe, Japan?!!! Yeah, I don't think that's news to anyone.
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baxtron
tek phlarpt
12:24 PM on 06/15/2011
stop saying gastro-pub. it's as annoying and devoid of meaning as "hand-crafted beer".
12:59 PM on 06/15/2011
Okay, great thinker. What would you have me say?
02:04 AM on 06/15/2011
I am so hungry.
01:46 AM on 06/15/2011
Why would anyone want to turn such a delicious meat like Kobe into something like a burger?
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chefmike
What nerve!
03:15 AM on 06/15/2011
Trimming scraps.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Michael Dayne
01:24 PM on 06/21/2011
So they can sell it to stupid Americans for four times what a normal burger costs.
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
CR46
spay/neuter and adopt
12:16 AM on 06/15/2011
No beef matches my hormone, antibiotic free red angus. Thank you for playing the name game, I'll keep my healthy USA bred beef.
01:47 PM on 06/15/2011
Uh, the point of the post was to highlight that when you're ordering a Kobe burger, you're probably actually getting USA bred beef. Also, Angus is also a marketing ploy, just like Kobe burgers.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
MyResponsibility
To Disagree,one need not be disagreeable
11:00 PM on 06/17/2011
It is NOT a marketing ploy. In particular, when it is Certified Angus Beef, not all Angus qualify to be in the program. It has to first be Black Angus, but must be in the top 1/3 of USDA Choice in the marbling scale (at the 12/13 rib).
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
malander
11:46 PM on 06/14/2011
Also, the fat marbled in a steak adds to the flavor and tenderness. When a burger is cooked, much of the fat cooks out. I have been in the food and beverage business for 30+ years and laugh at what gimmicks get sold to people.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Jeff Klenck
10:37 PM on 06/14/2011
It's my belief that some of the largest dinner chains in Japan were raising their "Kobe" herds here in the United States specifically in Oregon and shipping it back to Japan. Cheaper than raising it there with their land prices. This was several years back before the "trend" started here.
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MajorKong
If the pilot's good, see, I mean if he's reeeally
09:58 PM on 06/14/2011
I had a "Kobe Style" burger at a place in Denver and it was actually quite good. Almost a little TOO tender. I would have liked a little more texture but the flavor was quite good.

http://www.1515restaurant.com/